On 3/23/2011 9:39 PM, David Pratt wrote:
That being so, Alan, is there any value in supplying screened cable for
the power lead rather than the twin 'bell wire' used at present?
Not if it is common mode current, coupled from signal common onto the V-
wire. Go to my website and study the
I have owned both the K2 and K3.
The K2 is a perfectly capable HF radio, near (but not at) the top in
receiver performance. The most fun part of the K2 was assembling the
kit, and I learned a lot from the experience.
The K2 has advantages in price, small size and low power consumption.
For
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On 3/24/2011 1:04 AM, John Lemay wrote:
In fact if anything it is a little worse this morning,
but these are not lab measurements.
FWIW -- the P3 display is a VERY good indicator of voltage at the IF,
and you can easily set it to read out in dB, and with very high resolution.
I'd say take it
I have a K3 and just recently bought a K2 for the shack, my second K2. I messed
up and sold the first one.
73s Jim
On Mar 23, 2011, at 10:05 PM, Shane wrote:
Hi,
Hope this list is for questions like this, apologies if not. Never
used an Elecraft, thinking about getting a K2, and was
7138 was delivered yesterday to Bmt, TX, construction of the control board
commencing at 0700 hrs. Will be my 4th K2 to date.
73’s WT5Y
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Help:
After a move into a new house I can't seem to locate my K144XV serial cable.
Does anyone have the pin out for the DP9 to stereo plug on the K144XV ?
73 Jeff kb2m
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Jeff -
Tip- Pin 3 (Green)
Ring - Pin 2 (Red)
Sleeve - Pin 5 (Black)
Pins 4 8 are linked together in the DP9 connector.
It is a 6 foot, 3-way screened cable, the screen being connected to the
sleeve at the stereo plug end.
I hope that helps.
73 de David G4DMP
In a recent message,
If you are looking at a K2 fully fitted out with all options, then the
price may approach the basic K3, and the K3 becomes the better dollar
value
This was the reason that after building the K1 I changed my original plans to
follow with the K2 and bought a K3 kit instead. I love the K3. It's
Many thanks to Mark, N2QT; John, NI0K; Bob, K2TK, and Don (of course), W3FPR
for pointing me in the right direction to solve this problem!
The reason for the power shutdown? The ground (black) connector in the DC
power cable was not locking in place and causing an intermittent high current
http://www.wellbrook.uk.com/antennashop/index.php?route=product/productproduct_id=60
Virtually new Wellbrook loop. On our receive tower for 4 hours and back in
its original box and packing. $325 includes shipping UPS CONUS. Saves you
$60+.
We'll include the larger aluminum tubing section required
On 3/24/2011 6:56 AM, Hunsdon Cary III wrote:
I know there are many that are fans of the Anderson Powerpole
connectors but I am not one of them!
I am a fan of the APP when assembled and crimped properly. The
only times that I have had problems with them was when early
in my learning
When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the little lip on
the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire) extends completely
into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the metal part inside the
plastic housing. Viewed from the side it looks something
I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a bag full
of skills, which have served me very well for over a half century. Installing
small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came against the APP.
Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet.
On 19:59, John Lemay wrote:
Well, I have undertaken a lot of work to address this problem:-
John have you tried disconnecting the RS232 connection between K3 and P3?
Graham
G3TCT
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No apparent noise from the P3 on 144.225 here, either. The P3 is
resting against the feet on the right side of the K3. My antenna is
100' away at 65' and was pointing at the shack.
Bob K5SM
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At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a
PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are soldered
just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool.
In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed cut-away
Ron,
Maybe I'm too anal but I bought the rather expensive crimp tool,
and I crimp and also solder the PowerPole connectors. Maybe an overkill
but I sleep like a baby. :-)
Bob
K6UJ
On Mar 24, 2011, at 2:55 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never*
I have to admit that I am not a fan of APP's either.
I just cannot relate to the voltage drop across the connectors when drawing
20+A.
On my rig (with its factory built cable) it approaches 1.2 Volt. (And yes, the
connectors do get warm!)
Even with decent cables that I have made using 4mm wire
Jeff,
Something is wrong - the specification on the contact resistance of the
APP connectors is 600 microohms.
At a 20 amp current load, that should only result in a 0.012 volt drop
across the connector. Are you certain you are measuring correctly
(directly across the connector)? Or are
Ron,
The same here. The APP offers a large contact area and low resistance
when properly assembled.
I think the key here is properly assembled. For those who think that
almost like the manual diagrams is good enough, I have a revelation
for you - the APP connector must be just like the
*Hi All,*
*
*
*I am not reading the same voltage drop as Jeff so maybe he is not getting a
correct reading.*
*
*
*Voltage drop on #679 is minimal..)0.01*
*
*
*The display shows 0.3v from memory @ 100W*
*
*
*73's*
*Gary
*
On 25 March 2011 08:26, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
Jeff,
Hi Don,
I have measured across the connectors as well as using the K3's display.
Obviously the K3's display indicates worse than what it is but the fact remains
that the voltage drop is unacceptable.
I solder all my APP's, I don't believe that crimping connectors results in a
good connection,
Something is wrong - No KIDDING Be very careful in blaming
something that your test procedure is accurate and not faulty. Sometimes
the eggs you get in your face are large enough to hurt.
73, de Jim KG0KP
- Original Message -
From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com
To:
I solder them too. What I do is push the wire up to the top of the contact,
heat the
little tube, and apply solder to the very top, the part closest to the contact
surface.
I'm careful to only use a minimum amount of solder. Because I've heated the
tube, the
solder flows into it, not onto
Jeff,
I've never seen a drop anywhere near this size across an APP
connector. The contacts themselves are rated at something like 6
microohms resistance.
How are you measuring the drop? The K3's supply voltage display is not
a good way to measure the drop across just the connector, because
Are you really learning anything from the assembly process. My career
in not at all in hardware, I'm totally 100% a software person, and
though I understand the concepts at a high level … after I saw how
many pieces came w/ this radio … I started looking to see if the
factory would build it.
Shane,
Yes, the K2 assembly instructions will not lead you to an understanding
of the circuits - it is more mechanical to get the task accomplished.
However, for those adventuresome souls who want to understand their K2,
the Alignment and Test sections are an opportune time to study the
On 3/24/2011 4:33 PM, Shane wrote:
Are you really learning anything from the assembly process.
Yes, I did, but certainly not everything. Electronics sort of left this
OF in its dust about the time of integrated circuits, digital signal
processing, and several others that I won't mention. But
Shane -
I understand what you are saying, but there may be more you can do. For
example, building the kit does indeed give you insight on how it works,
how it is aligned (tuned up), and how the parts look and feel and fit
together. Not unimportant by any means. You gain lots of
Yep - me too seen one resistor seen them all !
When she was younger that's how my daughter help me build my rigs -
Honey now find me the red-blue-green- gold one She felt useful (and
she was) and I enjoyed her company. Now she's grown and gone so I
Let me build an Elecraft kit for you. My prices are reasonable, and you
receive a new, built radio or other kit with the options you want.
73
Alan
W1HYV
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Shane
I am not at EE or a Computer Programmerbut I do love electronics and
computers. What ham radio has taught be over the last 46 years is that I can
learn by 1) reading a book, 2) doing the project., and 3) trial and error. I
love to figure out how it does work. Take some time
For what it's worth Anderson Power Products does not recommend that
PowerPoles be soldered. They are designed as a crimp connector. I have
both a West Mountain crimper which does a good job and a genuine
Anderson Power Products ratchet crimper that does a really excellent
job. I have never
Hi Shane,
Fred has it exactly right:
On Thu, Mar 24, 2011 at 5:04 PM, Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net wrote:
So that's my main point in this question now … how much will
I understand from assembling the radio?
As much as you want to.
If you just stuff the boards with the parts, you will
Greetings;
I have an unusual RS-232 communication issue with a K2, and I'm curious if
anyone might have a suggestion.
The K2 sends the FA (VFO Freq. A) message as expected when the Port Test
is executed from the menu system. However, the K2 does not respond to RS-232
commands from the PC.
I traced
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