Hy to all, i made some research on the reflector and found some infos here
and then, but nowhere i found i complete and unique procedure/tutorial about
configuring the couple K3 and emu0204 (or 0202 or any other soundcard). I
think it would be great, first of all for a novice like i am about pc
There's no need to argue about 1500W or 500W. The 1500W will bring more
signal across to the other receiver.
And whether you are succesfull with 500W or 1500W depends on how you
use it.
The question is: why did Elecraft decide to bring a 500W PA and not the
1500W version that was on display
IZ2NYY wrote
Hy to all, i made some research on the reflector and found some infos here
and then, but nowhere i found i complete and unique procedure/tutorial
about configuring the couple K3 and emu0204 (or 0202 or any other
soundcard). I think it would be great, first of all for a novice
And what about chasis SO239? I wanted to replace a N connector for an
Amphenol SO239 in a centre dipole, and was really hard to have a solid
solder of the negative wire.
73,
Jorge
CX6VM
-Mensaje original-
De: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] En
On behalf of the entire HK0NA team I would like to take this opportunity to
thank Elecraft for being a primary sponsor for the HK0NA 2012 DXpedition.
Without their assistance an operation of the scale that we have planned
would not be possible. Our goals for this trip are aggressive. To reach
Hy Bill, tnx for reply. I also found the link you posted, but i intended in
my post, perhaps not really well explained, the part relating the config on
the K3 (Line out level, ALC and what so ever).
Pippo
IZ2NYY
-
Pippo
IZ2NYY
--
View this message in context:
Hi All:
Alan's reply makes the most sense of all.
For the casual DXer / casual contester, speed and frequency agility can make
as big of a difference as having brute force behind your signal.
Consider the example of being able to quickly change bands to follow a
multiplier or rare DX station
I know this is going to be obvious to a majority of this list but I have
finally figured out the VERY simple cure after dealing with it for 10 years
and I thought I'd share it in case it might save someone else some grief
with SO2R or multiple rigs feeding one headset. I am a far cry from being
My k3/10 puts out slightly more. Sometimes 9 or 9.5 watts equals 10.
Since that drives the 100w pa I would expect a greater amount at 100w.
I just figured it had to do with compression on ssb. Try it with zero
compression. Also advise how much more it's putting out.
73
Mike R
Sent from my
Working stations with the minimal power required is the end game at least that
is what i remember from the tests I took last year. Hihi.
Personally, I really enjoy working stations low power (with 20W or less). It
gives me tremendous satisfaction when I work a DX station with QRP. Like wow I
Yes antennas are important but also skill helps. You can buy mighty
antenna systems multi KW amps but if you can't master simple DXing
technique you won't work anything. I've never ran more than 700w. {My
old SB 220] I've always used my TA 33 tribander @50' a few homemade 2
element WARC
Thanks -rob
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I had some questions about this issue mailed to me.
Here's my update.
Elecraft sent me a replacement KPA100 and KPA I/O board, of which I
replaced myself.
The new amplifier and I/O board fixed the problem. No more 12KHz resonation
coming from the internals of the radio in test, low, and high
Don Wilhelm-4 wrote
Lou,
I would suggest the best way to disable transmit for your situation is
to disable the 8T signal - I would suggest removing Q1 from the Control
Board. For added protection to the K2 transmit stages, I would also
suggest removing the DC voltage from RF Board Q7
I have my 6M antenna connected at Ant 2, with the PR6 installed at the RX Ant
BNC's and config on DigOut1 set to On. Once I hit the RX Ant button, I
hear nothing. Is the 6M antenna supposed to be routed into PR6's BNC
connector instead of Ant 1 or 2?
thanks,
N6SC
--
View this message in context:
Did you remove jumper P2 as shown in Fig 3 in the manual? That's required
for Digout1 to control the PR6.
Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
I have my 6M antenna connected at Ant 2, with the PR6 installed at the RX
Ant
BNC's and config on DigOut1 set to On. Once I hit the RX Ant button, I
I would like to shorten the AGC response time in the K1.
I see there is a mod of changing C31 on the RF board from 2.2uF to 1.0uF.
I have a 1.0uF tantalum cap and was wondering if there is any problem with
replacing the 2.2uF with it since it is not a polarized electrolytic.
Thanks, Mike K7MH
--
Just realized that I keep referring to the amplifier as the KPA100 which
was for the K2.
This problem is pertaining to the K3 and the KPA3 (100W).
Sorry for any confusion I may have caused
73
DE AB3LS
On Wed, Jan 18, 2012 at 5:22 PM, Geoff Wolf AB3LS
liltechdud...@gmail.comwrote:
For those
Mike,
There should be no problem using the tantalum, but do know that it is
also polarized. Tantalum capacitors installed backwards can explode -
the electrolytics are usually not so severe, they just burst and leak
nasty chemicals all over the board.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 1/18/2012 5:27 PM,
Ok I remember now that it does. It was quite a while ago that I bought it and
just hadn't got around to the mod yet. I see now that I look at it that it
is marked and the leads are different lengths.
None the less, better to ask first than repair later!
I am snowbound so may as well catch up on
Can we expect to see the 100w amp before Christmas. I assume it will have
bandpass filters? Be about $500?
I believe that will be the only 100w amp for qrp rigs with filtered output so
it should be popular with other rigs as well.
73
Mike R
Sent from my spy ring
Amateur/Ham Radio KE5GBC
HF
From JA
I'd like to suggest Elecraft to prepare 50W version amp for KX3 since the
max.power allowed for prtable operation is 50W in JA.
Small internal swith to select 100/50W might be nice idea for that.
BTW
Thank you very much Elecraft for accepting direct order from JA.
Atsu, JE1TRV
Can we
I remember a while back there was some discussion about the P3 being used for
the display of decoded CW or Data Modes (RTTY, PSK31).
Is this something that will be supported someday or was it just a rumor?
Almost hate to bring it up because I personally think that the KAT500, the KX3,
the
Hi Atsu,
We could provide a jumper or switch in the KXPA100 to limit power to
50 watts.
Thanks for the suggestion.
73,
Wayne
N6KR
On Jan 18, 2012, at 5:06 PM, JE1TRV wrote:
From JA
I'd like to suggest Elecraft to prepare 50W version amp for KX3
since the
max.power allowed for prtable
Wow! What a quick feed back.
This is Elecraft quality that we love :)
Thank you Wayne Elecraft.
73
Atsu, JE1TRV
Hi Atsu,
We could provide a jumper or switch in the KXPA100 to limit power to
50 watts.
Thanks for the suggestion.
73,
Wayne
N6KR
On Jan 18, 2012, at 5:06 PM, JE1TRV
Is there an approximate weight on the KXPA100 PA ?
72/73,
K1NR
On Wed, 18 Jan 2012 17:47:20 -0800
Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com wrote:
Hi Atsu,
We could provide a jumper or switch in the KXPA100 to
limit power to
50 watts.
Thanks for the suggestion.
73,
Wayne
N6KR
On
Wayne, I like the idea; albeit for different reasons. I began
operating QRP on all my rigs for 4 special reasons My Hamlets - my
four children that are all licensed and formed their own club WK1RK. In
fact, my youngest son is now studying for an Extra upgrade (and he is 12
and the Net
Somewhere between 1 pound and 50 pounds.
Patience - we will have the details later. It will not alter the gas
mileage on your SUV., but it is not something to add to your backpack.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 1/18/2012 9:10 PM, Eugene Balinski wrote:
Is there an approximate weight on the KXPA100 PA ?
I was wondering what is the build quality as far as the controls go for the K3?
Do the knobs and switches seem to be of high quality and feel? Especially the
main tuning knob. I know it's a great radio overall, but I don't like wobbly
control knobs. Thanks!
I don't know what you consider wobbly - I find the K34 knobs to be to
my likeing, but since you have doubts, I suggest you go to a hamfest
where Elecraft has a presence, and you can touch and feel the knobs for
yourself before making a decision.
Yes, there have been some instances where the
The main tuning know is very solid and silky smooth. The ergonomics of the
K3 is superb in every respect. I particularly like the feel of the push
buttons. A real joy to operate.
Dave, N4QS
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
No wobbly control knobs on my K3. And no complaints on knob quality here.
From: ta...@comcast.net ta...@comcast.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wed, January 18, 2012 9:02:24 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Build quality of K3 regarding control knobs and switches?
Good evening , I recall there was a ham selling clear Plexiglas cases for a W1
wattmeter. Does anyone remember the web site?
Thanks , Glenn
K5ZE
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I only have my own K3 to go by, but if you were somehow able to make the
main VFO knob wobble I'd boot you out of my shack.
73,
Dave AB7E
On 1/18/2012 8:02 PM, ta...@comcast.net wrote:
I was wondering what is the build quality as far as the controls go for the
K3? Do the knobs and
Hi All,
Could someone please explain the proper way to track down RF noise in and
around my house? More often than not, I always have S9+ noise on 40 Meters,
making anything but really strong signals (S9+) audible above the noise. I
have only had a few instances where the noise was below S9
light dimmers
touch on off lamps
plasma tv sets
bob k3djc
On Wed, 18 Jan 2012 19:41:33 -0800 (PST) David Dietrich
kc9ehq2...@yahoo.com writes:
Hi All,
Could someone please explain the proper way to track down RF noise
in and around my house? More often than not, I always have S9+
noise
My rig is beautiful and the knobs work fine. Not even one complaint about this
rig. It is awesome!
Keith
AG6AZ
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Dave, W8FGU the website link he used to have doesn't work (probably moved it
elsewhere) but you should be able to reach him at W8FGU at Comcast dot Net.
Great cases!
73, Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On
You might also be on the lookout for failing street lamps out in your
neighborhood. I'm not sure what the technology is where I live, but when a
street lamp starts to fail, as evidenced by its cutting out for a while and
then reiighting ... when the lamp is in its cut-out state, it generates
BTW, there's a guy who sells heavy knobs for the K3 main and sub vfos. I
treated myself to them and love the main knob. It's a distinct improvement
over stock. The sub is a bit less successful, IMHO, because it is a bi
oversized and can cause you to hit the RIT knob y mistake.
73, andy ae6y
New K2 for sale: 10 watt CW version, includes KNB2 noise blanker and KAF2
audio filter with real time clock. I just completed building and aligning it
and the 2 options. This K2 has zero hours on it. All tests and measurements are
within specifications as listed in manual. I bought as a
Absolutely. IMHO, a 3 position switch or jumper at the
power levels below would be ideal.
72/73
K1NR
On Wed, 18 Jan 2012 21:20:01 -0500
Phillip Nichols scotchma...@yahoo.com wrote:
Wayne, I like the idea; albeit for different reasons. I
began
operating QRP on all my rigs for 4 special
I bought them also. While there is nothing at all wrong with the
perfectly adequate Elecraft stock knobs, the heavy aftermarket products
*really* make the K3 feel like a million bucks. Considering that the
main tuning knob is the major interface between radio and operator, they
are worth
Dave,
I don't think you will need the AM radio unless you discover it is not in your
house. Here's what I would do:
* run the K3 on battery power, have it tuned to 40 meters where you have the
noise.
* Turn off the main breaker to the house. Go check the K3, did the noise go
away ? If
I didn't buy them and I won't. I like the originals. I tune by rolling my
fingertip around the outer edge of the knob to turn it so I apply almost no
pressure at all to the knob even turning it rapidly. I set my tension to
nearly zero on the build as that is what I want. Larger or heavier
I'm with Jim, I like the original knobs.
I also have the tension set at nearly zero on the main tuning knob. It has
just enough mass to give a little flywheel effect when needed
for a quick spin up or down. Perfect for my use.
73,Bob
K6UJ
On Jan 18, 2012, at 8:56 PM, Jim Miller KG0KP
*Hmmm...No Name, No Signature, No call sign...but here goes..:-)
K3 #679 has what I would call very nice knobs and buttons etc. Mine turn
without any wobble as you said so all is good.
By way of interest, mine is carted around VK in a motorhome as a genuine
24/7 portable set-up and to date I
*FW switchable might work better?
Would hate to have to run around back of the motorhome to crank the power
up...especially if I am moving art the time...could be problematical?
Gary
*
On 19 January 2012 14:41, Eugene Balinski euge...@nni.com wrote:
Absolutely. IMHO, a 3 position switch or
w8fgu.home.comcast.net works for me.
I have one of his wattmeter cases and a
case on order for an AF1.
73! Ken - K0PP
elecraftcov...@gmail.com
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