Hello Jack,
I haven't turned the station off for months but I can put 1.23 back into the
KPA500 and play a bit with the order of power up to see if that affects
anything.
I can tell you that when it (using 1.23) is not dropping to standby on band
change (yes, I checked the menu), it doesn't
Play me some fiddle, but no stinkin' violin!
Amateur/Ham Radio KE5GBC
HF Echolink mobile
Begin forwarded message:
From: Mike Rodgers mikerodgerske5...@yahoo.com
Date: February 1, 2013 3:02:10 AM CST
To: elecraftcov...@gmail.com elecraftcov...@gmail.com
Subject: Re: Lee's hijacked mail
I have wondered about these DC-DC converters too but haven't tried one to see
if they pass the EMI/EMC test and not jam the radio, (remove the need to have
an antenna to pick up signals - hi). Seriously has anyone tried one. Using a
buck/boost converter it really frees-up a range of batteries
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2013 18:33:58 -0800
From: Jim Lowman jmlow...@sbcglobal.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 903 or 1296 Mhz Transverter
Message-ID: 510b2996.6060...@sbcglobal.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
Nice to know, Ed. I've been
Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
The problem with optional features is that they take development time
for the benefit of a very small number of users and get in the way of
larger projects that benefit the larger group.
That is a very important point - but development priorities are decided
by
Skip-br/br/Can you paraphrase what the manual says? I'd like to know but do
not have the manual in hand. br/br/Best
73,br/Bobbr/AC2FAbr/br/br/Sent from Yahoo! Mail for iPhone
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Scott Dunlavey wrote
I am suggesting a way to make
it so LIDS at club meetings or *^% ham operators at Field Day don't do
something they should not do.
Remember you can do a RESTORE CONFIG using the K3 Utility. This will
restore all settings to the saved configuration file. If you haven't
Use MENU to go to the ST L entry.
Hold EDIT button
Tap DISPLAY button to toggle to between U6-25 and U8-4.
Note: you must first adjust ST L to a sufficient volume (try 012 or so)
--Andrew, NV1B
..
On Fri, Feb 1, 2013 at 6:47 AM, ac...@yahoo.com wrote:
Can you paraphrase what the manual says?
I was having so much fun building it that I kept on chugging along. Now it
is finished and works great. My first two QSOs were with EW7LO and CR23V on
40 meters.
But now I am kind of sad, I think BUILDING it was more fun than USING it!
Yeah, I made it myself, but it is just a radio.it's a great
Crazy like the rest of us poor souls!
On Feb 1, 2013, at 8:20 AM, Paul Roche wrote:
I was having so much fun building it that I kept on chugging along. Now it
is finished and works great. My first two QSOs were with EW7LO and CR23V on
40 meters.
But now I am kind of sad, I think BUILDING
Paul,
Ya gotta build a K2 next (if you haven't already). A lot of fun to
build and a lot of add-ons after you're done.
Have fun
Tom
WB2QDG
K2 #1103
On 2/1/2013 9:20 AM, Stephen Roberts wrote:
Crazy like the rest of us poor souls!
On Feb 1, 2013, at 8:20 AM, Paul Roche wrote:
I was
I have a complete unbuilt KX-1 kit with unbuilt internal auto tuner kit for
sale.
New prices are $419.90this one is $340.00 with shipping included in CONUS
Please write if interested
Thanks for reading
John, N6AX
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Elecraft
A while back (within several weeks I think) Wayne posted some suggestions on
adjustments for improving the CW decode feature of the K3. I thought I could
find that but I am not successful so far.
Does anyone remember this and do they have it?
Or, does anyone know of these suggestions and
In a recent message, Paul Roche roc...@comcast.net writes
And my TS-590S is also just a radio.
I am gonna think about it for a while, but I might just SELL the completed
K1 and buy another kit. Am I carzy?
Sell your TS-590S, Paul, and buy a K2 kit. You'll enjoy that even more
than the K1.
73
I was wondering if i can cure an annoying problem when I am sending cw on
the hf bands above 15 meters.
I have a small mini beam on the roof and my shack is directly under it.
When I work the bands above 15 meters my smoke alarm beeps. Its in the hall
between the bedrooms, so don't want to move
HiHi!
But then when I am done with the K2 I will STILL be left with just a radio!
I can't get rid of the 590S. Is it is, the 590S is too small for me, I want
something NEW of FT-1000MP size (for man-sized hands) but not the $$$. The
K2 is too small as my only rig at home.
Maybe sell the K1 and
If it is a wired-in smoke detector, try putting a .01 uFd 1400-volt AC
rated cap directly across 120-volt AC power leads. If that isn't
enough, then try a capacitor the between (across) the wire, if there is
one, that connects it to the other detectors and the AC neutral lead.
If the unit
We used to discuss this topic at work. Someone brought out the fact that a
power strip or some other device with a surge protector built in should cover
everything on that particular leg. It's a parallel circuit. (I'm not
defending this).
Also, it was brought out that MOV surge protectors
We used to discuss this topic at work. Someone brought out the fact that a
power strip or some other device with a surge protector built in should cover
everything on that particular leg. It's a parallel circuit. (I'm not
defending this).
You're right in not defending that stance. It
If Jim's ideas don't work you could simply try another detector of a
different brand. Susceptibility to RF varies in unpredictable ways and
that is an easier solution than moving the detector (move it where?
Would it actually help?).
Another approach, if it is a 'wired-in' detector, is to
I will be interested in what you folks come up with. One night, the band was
open late and I was working 5 watts QRP CW on 20 meters using my tri-band beam.
The smoke detector went off, woke my wife and she panicked. Ham radio was not
popular in our house.
I later tuned up my 80 meter loop
If the smoke detector is wired to the AC line, wrapping as many turns of the ac wiring as
possible around a ferrite toroid or rod should cure it. The little Radio Shack split
toroids sold for this purpose work. Or you could replace it with a battery-powered model.
If you already have a battery
On 2/1/2013 10:21 AM, Mark Bayern wrote:
Someone brought out the fact that a power strip or some other device with a
surge protector built in should cover everything on that particular leg. It's
a parallel circuit.
Nope. ANY shunt mode device (MOV) operates by conducting the spike to
the
Hello Everyone,
A few weeks ago there was a thread on here about a remote tuning knob.
This topic has come up every now and then on the mailing lists out there
and it's something I've wanted to try to make for a while. I got back the
prototype boards yesterday, soldered on the parts, loaded my
Using an oscilloscope to measure dot leading edge to dot leading edge,
therefore ignoring weight. K3 in TX mode. There is some timing jitter,
used average observed values. Using the formula DOTms = 1200 / WPM
K3 WPM ms DOT ms WPM
15 156 78 15.4
18 127 63.518.9
20
I also tried testing against RBN and at a K3 menu speed of 25wpm I got 25
and 26wpm reported. I did this with a preprogrammed memory since my sending
isn't that good yet.
So it's not far off. I'm satisfied.
73
jim (who needs a lot more practice...)
The problem is it is getting hard to find decent-quality outlet strips
that DON'T have surge protection built in. I am currently building up a
second studio for KBBF-FM, a community bi-lingual station here in Santa
Rosa. I wanted an outlet strip with some sockets spaced far enough
apart to
I like it.
I especially like the ability to assign macros to the buttons. One idea would be to make
the device larger and flatter, with more buttons. Many K3 users would like to have a
dedicated keypad for band changes. A few more buttons would make this possible.
Lots of possibilities --
What is the level of attenuation when selected. Can it be controlled?
Thanks, Mike
K0AZ
Mike Sanders
EM37cd SW Missouri
www.k0az.com
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I have KPA500 with 1.23 and KAT500 at 1.18 with radio at 4.60 with no standby
issues with the amplifier.
73,
Bill
AK5X
On Jan 31, 2013, at 11:22 PM, Rick Bates wrote:
Hello all,
Today I upgraded the KPA500 from V 1.18 to V 1.23. I now note the following
problem: The amp does
On Fri, 1 Feb 2013 11:59:00 -0600, Richard Fjeld wrote:
I built a box with an AC relay that locks up through it's own contacts.
Did the same thing, except that the path also goes through a timer relay
that doesn't energize the AC path relay until power has been on for at
least 30 seconds
Very, very slick. This thing would be the nuts for contesting. Would
there be any possibility of making a wireless interface version? I
really like to keep my desktop free of cables.
73...
Randy, W8FN
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Hi Mike,
I did a quick search on the word attenuation and found this older e-mail
from Lyle of the Elecraft crew.
73,
Mike K2MK
*Lyle Johnson Tue, 25 Nov 2008 12:42:26 -0800
How much attenuation does the Attenuator put in line?
Approximately 10 dB, not adjustable.
73,
Lyle KK7P*
Mike
Alan,
It should be a simple matter to open the strip and clip out the MOVs
(unless the construction is glued plastic).
73,
Don W3FPR
On 2/1/2013 4:43 PM, Alan Bloom wrote:
The problem is it is getting hard to find decent-quality outlet strips
that DON'T have surge protection built in. I am
Hi again,
I see that I wasn't clear enough for some folks as a few here and private
email have said a similar thing. So here is the issue: SOMETIMES with v
1.23 firmware, when changing bands, the amp will not drop into standby mode.
This setting is to protect the station from operator brain
Hi Jim,
do you by chance also have the K144RFLK board installed? Then no offset is
needed as the reference lock takes care of (no) frequency offsets.
73, Olli - DH8BQA
- Original Message -
From: Jim Spears n...@cox.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2013
It's easy to confirm both the preamp and atten effect on the signal using
the excellent built-in tools in the K3. Switch the display to show the audio
voltage, tune in a signal, and switch between 'in' and 'out' with your
preamp or attn noting the voltage level change.
To convert to dB, it's a
I so rarely work SSB but did try today and needed to remove
tuner-uppers so I tapped #9/NTCH and one tap gives me N/A where VFO B
goes nothing happens. Holding in NTCH gives me manual notch
function. Looked in the manual under auto notch but nothing saying
N/A
Can't seem to get auto notch to
Thanks Don. It's a metal case held together with screws, so there
should be no trouble opening it up to clip out the MOVs. The question
is whether I should do that. You pay extra for them, after all. :=)
Alan N1AL
On 2/1/2013 2:44 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Alan,
It should be a simple
Well, I use a PowerMate viaMacLoggerDX, but sure would like to have a keypad
for more macros
73 de David, M0XDF (K3 #174, P3 #108)
--
I really hate this damn machine, I wish that they would sell it.
It never does just what I want, but only what I tell it!
On 1 Feb 2013, at 21:57, Vic K2VCO
Yes it was. Thank you!
73,
Gary
KA1J
AGC off?
- 73 de Mike, K6MKF, W6NAG, VP NCDXC, Conway Reef 2012, K3-P3
Addict,
Dachshund Rescue, Maui
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Gary Smith
Sent:
Jim,
If I re-wire the outlet strip, would it make sense to leave an MOV
connected from hot to neutral as long as there are none connecting to
ground?
There could still be a high voltage spike on the ground due to the
impedance of the common path of ground and neutral between the breaker
On 2/1/2013 1:43 PM, Alan Bloom wrote:
Should I crack it open and remove the MOVs?
If you put a SurgeX or Brick Wall box between them and the breaker
panel, they'll never see a surge, so no problem. Otherwise you should
remove the MOVs.
BTW -- many computers, computer accessories, copy
On 2/1/2013 4:30 PM, Alan Bloom wrote:
If I re-wire the outlet strip, would it make sense to leave an MOV
connected from hot to neutral as long as there are none connecting to
ground?
No, that can also do some mischief, although less.
73, Jim K9YC
What price range are we talking about?
It sounds like a fun build if you are thinking the kit route.
And yes, I am abstractly interested.
Cheers - Bill, AE6JV/KH6
On 2/1/13 at 12:16 PM, n...@pignology.net (Nick Garner) wrote:
I'd be happy to hear any feedback, even if it's just, I'd be
Well, a lot of things lead me to believe that absolute protection is not to
be expected with any design, and warranties are likely worthless even if
they seem to apply. Am I wrong to assume that lightning mostly differs
from other surge sources in total energy for a direct or close hit? In other
Gary,
My house was built in 1954, 59 years ago. At the old panel (the only one
until I added a new one and new underground wires from the pole), there is
already a protector, a Stedi Volt from General Energy Controls, Inc. in
Chambersburg, Pa. It has a red indicator light on it (I have never
Bill,
Thanks for the tip; I had not seen those. However, off the top of my head,
with the new addition I will have about 30 circuits, so putting those
devices on each circuit would cost a lot more than even the $600 whole house
unit I was looking at.
73,
Erik K7TV
Bill K9HZ wrote:
New construction requires ARC protection breakers everywhere in addition
to GFI breakers in wet spots.
The new ARC breakers are hyper-sensitive, so perhaps some of the risk
of damage may be reduced where they have been installed?
Thanks for the tip; I had not seen those. However, off the top
Don,
I also have Tripplite power strips in the shack, which I got many years ago
when I was impressed with their warranty for connected equipment. I use a
couple of them chained to provide enough outlets, and then unprotected units
chained off of that to provide even more outlets. Some of the
Bob,
Originally only the A/C used 3 phases. However, my room addition is for a
workshop, and I am installing a couple of 3-phase outlets for possible
future use in case I come across a nice big milling machine, lathe or welder
for $100 J. I would also be able to move the shack to the new room
Jim, I am going to study your paper before I make final decisions on my
installation.
73,
Erik K7TV
Jim Brown wrote:
There's a discussion of all of this in the Power and Grounding tutorial on
my website. http://audiosystemsgroup.com/publish.htm Although it's written
for audio and video
In the cw mode what is the plus symbol near the
bottom right corner of the icon display signify?
Smith Bradford
W9HAK
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Help:
Rich, that sounds like a good idea, especially if lightning pulses are very
stretched out in time. Maybe I should copy the idea. Anyway, all my efforts
right now go to the new building and the main panel, so it will be months
before I do anything for the current shack, even to move everything to a
Jim, thanks for that tip. I will look into the series-mode protectors for
when I get around to correcting things in my shack.
73, Erik K7TV
Jim Brown wrote:
Our solution has been to use SERIES-MODE Surge Protectors, and that has been
quite effective. SurgeX and Brick Wall are the only two
Smith,
That indicates that CW QRQ in the Config menu is turned on.
In other words high speed full break-in is enabled.
Rick
K6LE
On 2/1/2013, at 9:21 , W9HAK w9...@insightbb.com wrote:
In the cw mode what is the plus symbol near the bottom right corner of the
icon display signify?
The comment about ARC protection breakers is very timely. A few days ago I
chatted with a building inspector and learnt about the new devices. However,
since my permit was issued over 2 years ago he said that the old
requirements apply. I also heard some negative comments about the new ARC
Let me say this more clearly so there is no misunderstanding... you only use
one of these per load center. So for example, I have three 200 Amp load
centers in my house with 40 breakers each (600 amp feed to the house). I
use one of these per load center, for a total of three. It cost me a
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