I have a nonresonant-in-any-ham-band 44' doublet in my attic peak at 31'
above ground. Only 26' is actually flat top while the rest droops
down at the ends. I have 16' of 450 ohm ladder line coming through a
slit in the ceiling just above a linen closet. In that linen closet, on
a shelf
you should join the magloop list
--
R.Neese
KB3VGW
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Stan,
Right on. The idea of using a 40 meter length allows the operation
as described in the books as a classical multiband antenna. Few hams
have enough space for the 80 meter version.
Don't discount using an attic that has HVAC equipment in it. The
installation I described had HVAC
Slightly off topic.
A few years ago my parents built a small home on the farm pond in a
corner parcel of their former farm (which they sold at retirement -
age 77). One problem was TV reception and they didn't want to
install an outside mast and antenna. I helped them select a medium
sized
I wish to make a comment on the loop antenna situation from a different
angle. Pardon my being a novice to posting to this list. So here goes:
There are a lot of hams that face difficulties with putting up sizeable
antennas. Where does the remote operation of a K3 fit into this
situation? Is
The display on my K3 wigs out every now and then and a light tap above the
display corrects it. I plan on taking the covers off and reseating
everything
around the display.
It's always warm in my shack, and I can't remember how it has been, but it
seems
like it is warmer just above the display
On 12/08/13 22:36, PGrig wrote:
I would appreciate knowing the experiences of folks who have run their K3 on
battery power for several (4-8?) hrs., with perhaps a 20% TX duty cycle. What
types and sizes of batteries seem to be the best balance of staying power and
portability?
-Paul
I have use M2 6/2/432 loops on a mobile stack mount in my attic that works
quite well out to 50+ miles. I placed these up there for emergency use in
case of a weather event taking out my outdoor antennas. I have used them
from QRP to 1k on 6m and have preamps for each.
A 160m loop- is a favorite
On 8/13/2013 9:56 AM, Edward R Cole wrote:
So this suggests that VHF and UHF ham antennas can also work in attics.
For several years I used a 2-m mag-mount antenna upside-down on the
ductwork in the plenum area above my office - 3rd floor of a 6-story
building. Had no problem reaching
Wondering if anyone here has made use of a polyfuse between an external SLA
battery and a KX3. I'm interested in your experiences with these devices and
in any specific hold and/or trip current values you've tried and had good (or
bad) luck with.
72,
Brent, KD0GLS, Minneapolis
Remember things are different on VHF/UHF bands. Its often FM which reduces
noise problems to some extent, and the wavelengths are shorter and get out
between conductors a lot better than HF.
73 - Mike WA8BXN
---Original Message---
From: Phil Kane
Date: 8/13/2013 2:40:41
I've had two meter and UHF antennas in the attic without issues. I also
have two perpendicular 40M and two perpendicular 20M dipoles in the attic of
my house. Up to a year ago, all was fine with my K3 running 100W, either
band. Now, if I transmit as low as 20W on one of the 40M dipoles, it
Keep in mind that absorption by the walls, roof, etc. increases with
frequency. That's why a microwave oven will heat your dinner but no amount
of 40 meter signal will do a thing for it.
Still, I've had good success with a J-pole in the attic. No weak signal DX
work, but a good local signal.
Try this reference:
http://www.littelfuse.com/data/en/Product_Brochures/EC327-E_Polyfuse_PTC.pdf
Be aware that the polyfuse is a thermal device and reacts rather slowly.
LiPo/LiFePO4 batteries are VERY low impedance and can put out hundreds of
amps into a short circuit. That can easily exceed
In years past, part of my work involved signal propagation (VHF/UHF)
predictions and measurements.
For 150 MHz paging service, the generally accepted in-building
attenuation figure was on the order of 10 to 20 dB compared with an
outdoor measurement in the same location. 10 dB or so for
Brent,
I recommend fusing *any* battery cable near the battery (or power
supply) with a fast-blow fuse whose rating is matched to the size of the
wire. #10, 30 or 35 amps, #12, 20 or 25 amps, #14 15 or 20 amps, #16 or
#18 10 amps. I like the in-line ATC fuses or use a rigrunner or other
I'm on vacation with my KX1 and my antenna isn't doing well. It is 65 feet of
telephone hook up wire and a 15 foot counterpoise. Nicely up 20' in a tree but
getting no tuning on 40 or 80 but tunes nicely on 30 and 20. I'm on the road so
can't make too many adjustments. Any emergency fixes so I
Hi Phil,
Shorten the radiator to 44 feet, but leave the counterpoise alone for now.
The 65 foot length is nearly a perfect half-wave on 40 meters and will
present a very high impedance, possibly beyond the range of your tuner. The
shortening won't help you on 80 meters, but if you can lengthen
Shortening it to 53 feet should avoid being an exact half-wave on most bands.
You might try that first. If that doesn't work, go to 44.
wunder
K6WRU
On Aug 13, 2013, at 3:36 PM, Mike K8CN wrote:
Hi Phil,
Shorten the radiator to 44 feet, but leave the counterpoise alone for now.
The 65
I seemed to have lost RS232 Connection on K2 to my laptop. The device driver
appears to be working according to Windows. My K2remote program appears to see
the test signal from the K2 using the secondary menu. HyperTerminal can also
see the test signal from the K2 but that is about it. Has
We still are having a number of stations that cannot get checked in. Although
it won't help everyone, I think it may be helpful to ask for QRP (under 10 or
12 watts) stations only at several positions each week. We'll keep trying to
get everyone in. Last Sunday we had 35 stations over a 25
Ariel,
Check to see if your K2 has sidetone - if it does not, the answer is
easy, your sidetone source is incorrect.
In case this is the problem, the solution is to enter the menu for ST L
and edit the parameter (hold EDIT), then tap DISPLAY until you hear
sidetone - the display should flash
Don,
That seems to have done the trick - I increased my sidetone volume slightly and
now the computer control programs are working; Thanks for the prompt reply.
Ariel NY4G
Sent from Windows Mail
From: Don Wilhelm
Sent: August 13, 2013 9:49 PM
To: Ariel Jacala
CC:
I seemed to have developed a problem with “sticky” band switch keys. Changing
bands using the buttons - intermittently - the KX3 refuses to switch bands.
Switching bands through the computer interface is not a problem though.
Activating the relays through the computer USB connection seems to
Ariel,
If you regularly use the STL menu for adjusting the sidetone to match
the signal AF level, I suggest that you change that habit - it is very
easy to tap DISPLAY in the process and change the sidetone source.
As an alternative, set the Sidetone level to an intermediate value, and
use
Howdy to all,
I don't think anyone will question the fact that a good antenna system
is one of the most important factors in a ham station being able to
communicate efficiently particularly when using qrp power levels.
While I would agree that a full length dipole antenna, or beam antenna
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