Bob
The idea of a balun is to provide balanced drive to the transmission line
so that it will not radiate, saving that for the antenna. Part of the
idea is to reduce TVI etc due to feedline radiation, and part is to
preserve the directivity pattern of the antenna. A radiating feedline
tends to
Kevin
I use DPDT relays here to switch my 450 ohm feedlines.
Works very well.
73, Bob N6WG
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kevin Rock
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2005 5:03 PM
To: Elecraft; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Elecraft] A/B antenna switch
Yes, that's why I don't use XIT :-)
73, Bob N6WG
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Cortland Richmond
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2005 9:33 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] XIT/Split interaction?
I suffered an emabrrassing lapse
Max
Any chance you could use some form of receiving loop?
You could orient it with its null toward the highest noise intensity
in your location.
73, Bob N6WG
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Charles Greene
Sent: Saturday, July 16, 2005 5:56 AM
Hi Glenn
Seems a lot of work for a relatively simple rf ground.
Why not just take a piece of copper tubing and lay it in a shallow trench
and bond your ground wire to it?
RF doesn't penetrate the ground very far, so a deep trench wouldn't be
needed.
Glad to see you're still around. Haven't heard
Scott
Just a hint. You can use many other knobs as well.
Here I use the knob off my old Kenwood TS-180 and it is really great
on the K2.
Congrats on being the Fox. I was Fox myself many times.
You may find me in the old archives as the Golden Fox :-)
Just might try to catch you myself. Been a
Actually, Mike, I think I've seen mention of Datong in
recent years. Not totally dead yet.
Dr. D. A. Tong was a very clever designer, but he kept
his designs very close to his chest. To the best of
my knowledge, the schematics for the FL3 or others
were never published. I too have an FL3 and
Check the base impedance at hf. Some antennas have a vhf matching circuit
in the base
that will look like nearly a short at hf. If it doesn't show an open
circuit at hf,
it will probably be very difficult to match at hf.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL
Hi Jason
That sounds like a fun idea.
Personally, I think I would opt for
the idea of the QRP K2 plus the 100w PA and ATU in a
second cabinet next to it. Same amount of desk
real estate, but quite a bit less money overall.
Either way, you can't lose.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
-Original
-
From: Jack Brindle [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2005 10:31 AM
To: Robert Tellefsen; Jason Hissong; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] 2 K2s?
At 8:51 AM -0700 6/23/05, Robert Tellefsen wrote:
Personally, I think I would opt for
the idea of the QRP K2 plus the 100w
Paul
Try JAMECO. You can find them on the web.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Paul Clay
Sent: Saturday, June 18, 2005 12:07 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Pomona 3296 Parts Source?
Can't seem
Hello Rich
Several suggestions.
First, for the ac cord, use a large enough toroid so that you can get a
number
of turns through it. Try to get them to lay smoothly next to each other,
rather than bunching and crossing over each other. You can remove the ac
plug for the winding, then install a
Vic
The bandpass filter alignment merely assures you have adequate drive to the
PA.
The LPF will have more effect on the PA current, as it determines whether
you have
a match between the load the and PA.
73, Bob N6WG
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Jim
I use the old Timewave DSP 59+ external unit for several reasons.
My acoustic filter speaker isn't real efficient, and the K2 doesn't
drive it to the volume I would like. So, the DSP unit provides
extra amplification to drive the speaker. In addition, the DSP filtering
supplements the K2
Today, we are most of us computer appliance operators, who learn
application programs, but know little about the hardware and firmware
beneath the application.
Well, there are folks who build wonderful pianos. There are very talented
piano tuners.
And then there are very fine piano players.
I
Regarding the Autek antenna analyzers, M0RAC wrote Has anyone built a
sturdy
slow motion drive for the tuning? Let me know!
Here's one idea. Find the largest knob that will fit the little shaft and
the
space to the edge of the other knob.
This will give a modest improvement in tuning rate, due
should be able to get to Pacificon this year
Gordon, look forward to seeing you there.
73, Bob N6WG
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Actually, Larry, the Italian VNA can be used for filters, etc. On the
analyzer web site,
Davide posted info on adding a second BNC fitting to provide IN and OUT
ports
for this purpose.
I finally got my unit working. Thought there was a problem with it, but it
turned
out to be in my laptop
Gene
Can you tell us what linear dimensions your attic would have
for potential dipoles?
They also work at nonresonant lengths, and work quite well.
At frequencies above their resonant length they can actually
contribute some gain. Height above ground will be a bigger
factor, in that for freqs
Hi Tom
Yes, that is excellent feedline for multiband antennas.
Here I have a 60 ft centerfed flattop with 450 ohm window line
for feeder. I can load this antenna on 160, 80, 40, 30, 20, 17, 15, 12 and
10m.
The feedpoint Z at the shack end changes from band to band, so I either use
a 1:1 balun or
Hi Vic
You can use your MFJ to measure the impedance of the balun. Connect one of
of the balun (short both wires together) to the center of the MFJ coax
connector
and the other end, shorted together, to the shell of the connector.
Use the MFJ to measure the impedance of the inductor formed at the
Tony
Here is one idea.
I use a reversible geared down 12v dc motor to turn my tuning cap at the
base of my
vertical. Typically I peak the vertical at either 1815 kHz or 1845 kHz. I
have to tune
at low power and watch the swr meter for a minimum.
For the coming winter I'm going to build a noise
Robert
The first option I would recommend is the KAT2 ATU for the K2.
With it you can take the rig anywhere, and load darned near anything
for an antenna. I have lots of loose batteries here, so don't use
the internal battery. But if you expect to do a lot of demos for
folks, the battery would
Well, QRP-L has been the home of serious QRPers for years.
You should be able to find it with a simple search.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Steve Baum
Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2005 9:09 AM
To:
Hi Mike
Yes, I too have the DSP 59+, and use it all the time.
Partly to supplement the K2DSP denoiser, partly to add
some degree of filtering, but not much, and partly for
an additional audio amplifier to drive my acoustic
filter speaker. The speaker isn't real efficient, and
takes more drive
Bill
Any place you can find a used Motorola mobile radio speaker, grab it.
It will have good audio, and plenty of output.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of William E.
Twaddell
Sent: Sunday, March 06, 2005 11:00 AM
To:
Mike
I strongly recommend the AADC L/C IIB
(http://www.mtechnologies.com/aade/#lcm)
It has become a pretty much a standard for QRPers interesting in
homebrewing.
It is far more accurate and useful than the L and/or C measuring ability
of most DMMs.
When my sons were growing up and got into cars,
I've just started the A to B upgrade, and I'm still on page 5, doing the
Modifications to Cure Instability at the bottom left corner of the page.
The first step is to be sure that C70 and C71 in the VCO area have the
shortest possible leads. Then the last step in that segment is to
remove C70.
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