Norm,
The Astron SS10 is great. I use it for my K1 and K2 and it's RFI
quite. You can get it for $69 if you look around a bit on the web. I'd
stay away from the gamma research supply-- it's VERY noisy.
73, steve, kx7r
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I use this site at work for converting various units into SI and I
thought many here might find it useful. It’s pretty impressive…
http://www.sengpielaudio.com/Calculations03.htm
73, steve, kx7r
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Post to:
I am trying to use my K2 to drive a little HFPacker amp I built. The
amp needs 2-2.5W input, but I am having trouble setting the K2 output.
For requested levels around 2W, I get 1.5-1.7W as measured by both
internal and external wattmeters and a simple RF voltage probe. This is
into both a
Don,
I took your advice and reduced the number of variables. With the KAT2
removed and no amp I found that I do get output in the 2-3W range:
Requested K2 Reading V^2/R
1.0 0.6 0.82
1.5 1.0 1.04
2.0
I have a 100% functional KDSP2 that I built about 6 weeks ago that I
would like to sell to help finance building another K2 over the winter.
I operate only cw and have gotten so used to using just the xtal filters
that I have the DSP in bypass mode 99% of the time. I'm asking $195
which
All,
I placed an order for two rolls of mulicore from R. S. Hughes this
morning. Their sales rep from Portland, OR just called, and told me
that Loctite usually has a 20 roll minimum order. So, just as Don did a
month or so ago, I am willing to order a box, keep two rolls for myself,
and
Leigh,
My doublets work great on the higher bands. In theory, the lobe
configuration does changes with wavelength n of the wire, so you have
roughly 2n lobes. But you also get some gain, and, more importantly, a
lower peak angle of radiation. You can read all about it in W4RNL's
great
Martin,
Before going to a G5RV, I would try feeding your 80 m dipole with 450
ladder line to a (good) 1:1 current balun and use a short run of coax to
the K1. I use this setup to feed 102' and 44' wires. My Ks tune them
on any of the bands they cover (you need a bit of additional L/C help on
You can cut the LEDs using a very fine tooth straight-back saw you can
buy for a few bucks at your local hobby shop. They cut easily and
cleanly. The back light is an elegant and much appreciated addition to
the K1.
steve, kx7r
A Dremel with a cutting disk makes short work of it. The
I just upgraded my K2 to 2.04/1.09 from 2.03/1.08 on the way to the CW
keying mod. The radio works fine, except for the new AFL+SPLIT shortcut
for the denoiser which results in the not inSt message. My KDSP2 has
the latest (V3.10) firmware and works as it should. It's not a big
deal, but I
Ralph,
Another possibility if weight is not a concern: I use 2 7.2V R/C
batteries (3000 mAh) in series with a 1N4000 to drop the voltage a bit.
This is ideal for the KX1 because the voltage remains high (13+)
throughout discharge which maximizes the rf output. The KX1 will easily
run a
I've had Tom's SMD version in my K2 for a couple weeks and it works
great. I just finished testing one in my K1. It also works great, and
may be more useful to me than the one in the K2. All connections to the
indicator are easily picked off J1 (AF from P1, GND from P3 and 12V from
P16).
Very recent S/N (851) includes ATU and 30m module; perfect condition and
working to specs. The radio has been completed for about a month, and
I’ve had it on the air for only a few QSOs to check it out. I built this
one for fun and want to sell it to finance building another K1 or K2 as
a
Thanks of the inquiries.
Steve, kx7r
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