Kev,
Those are the trimmer caps that are currently used. Yes, they are not
ceramic, but they have good temperature compensation characteristics
(better than the original ceramics).
Observe the flat side orientation when installing those capacitors so
they can be properly adjusted when using
The four trimmers provided for C32, C34, C44, and C46 are supposed to be
5-30pF ceramics but the ones supplied appear to be quite different.
They have a brown plastic type body and don't appear to be ceramic. I
can find no markings on the trimmers to indicate their capacitance. The
inside adju
I have now completed up to the start of Assembly, Part III, P67, with
all tests and alignments done.
AND BEST OF ALL, it works!! I have actually heard several strong SSB
signals on 40M.. YAAYY!!
Although I am limited with test equipment, I've managed to pass all tests.
But I will hopefully
Don,
YAAAYYY!!!
The answer turned out to be very simple. I loosened all the chassis
screws in the assembly to date. which gave enough movement in the boards
particularly the RF board, to allow the screws fixing the Control Board
to be tightened easily. I then tightened all the remaining chassi
I think you should go over all the solder joints on the control board.
Just heat them up and apply a tiny bit of solder. Wait till it flows. It
is not a good solution to leave out the screws, because oxidation may
ultimately make the bad solder joints fail even when the board is not
stressed.
Kevin,
That is "telling" that you have not truly flush trimmed the lead on the
encoder board and the area of the control board where it makes potential
contact. There is not a lot of space for error there.
Flush trimmed means really flush with the board thickness. Solder that
protrudes fr
Te kit should fit together without needing to use longer screws, etc.. If it
doesn't, then it indicates you may have done something wrong.
Are the PCB headers sitting properly flush wi the board, or are they sticking
up a bit, possibly causing misalignment? Are you sure you used the right size
Many thanks to Don and others who responded.
The problem has been fixed, I found a suspect dry joint on the PTT/ATT
switch.
I also checked the new encoder which appeared ok but I did insert a very
thin piece of insulation between the new encoder and the control board
to make sure.
All tests
Hi,
These also have the "170" number so may be of similar design.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've got good service from these, even abusing them. If your a Prime
member or get to the free shipping level at $4.37 these a
Kevin,
You have a K2 with the new encoder board. If the leads on that encoder
board and the area of the Control board directly behind it are not flush
trimmed (really, really flush trimmed), the two will make contact and
'strange things will happen'. Yes, the tools list does not include
flu
Hi to all,
Firstly, let me introduce myself.
I'm an 80 year old ham first licensed 1960, never very active on the
bands, more of a builder than a contest DX-er, and even that building
lapsed about 20 years ago until recently.
it seems that building an Elecraft K2 had been on my to do list since
11 matches
Mail list logo
