I too built my K-2 and all accessories with the RS soldering iron.
However, after reading all the interesting stuff on this reflector,
including the Hakko desoldering iron, I finally bought a soldering station
from Hakko and I can testify that soldering life will never be the same.
Incredible diff
Jon, VE8JJ, wrote:
>I just want to confirm the assembly instructions:
>R18 and R19 are basically resistors with value of 0
>(zero) ohms. So you
>solder in a piece of wire for each of them. Then if
>and when you are ready
>to install KAF2, you desolder and remove the two
wires
>at R18 and .R19.
If you knew the value of the 'resistors' that were going to live there,
and you had them in your stash, you could install them in the proper place
and put a jumper across them on the other side of the board. Then when it
came time to install the other board, just clip the jumpers (or unsolder
if y
Jon:
If you are sure you intend to buy the audio filter, you can buy the kit
now and install the proper connectors right away. You can then use a
couple of scrap resistor leads as jumpers to make the required
connections - the same as if you had the audio filter installed and
wanted to remove
Jon, VE8JJ, wrote:
I just want to confirm the assembly instructions:
R18 and R19 are basically resistors with value of 0 (zero) ohms. So you
solder in a piece of wire for each of them. Then if and when you are ready
to install KAF2, you desolder and remove the two wires at R18 and R19.
With my tr
Hi folks:
The quest to transform K2 S/N 3460 into something greater than the sum
of its parts has finally begun in earnest.
I am working on the Control Board right now.
I just want to confirm the assembly instructions:
R18 and R19 are basically resistors with value of 0 (zero) ohms.
So you solde
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