[Elecraft] ARRL Modified Regulations by Bandwidth Proposal

2005-08-17 Thread Charles Greene

Hi All,

In the September QST, there is an article that relates that the ARRL Board 
of Directors has approved the subject plan.  Details of the plan are at 
http://www.arrl.org/announce/bandwidth.html   As a QRP CW and PSK31 
operator I have a lot of problems with this plan.  The lowest frequency 
division, 200 Hz allows CW and low bandwidth digital operation like 
PSK31/63 and 60 baud RTTY.  For example, on 40 meters, it runs from the 
lower band edge up to 7035 Hz.  As the lower 25 Hz of the US allocation is 
reserved for Amateur Extra, other CW and narrow bandwidth digital 
operations are squeezed into 10 Khz and the US QRP calling frequency of 
7040 is excluded.  Other bands are somewhat similar.  The next division by 
frequency is 500 Hz which permits all wideband digital operation except 
Pactor III.  Granted, the lower bandwidth stations can operate in the 
higher bandwidth portions, but the division is heavily weighted toward 
mailbox stations using Pactor II.  The effect of this allocation are that 
semi-automatic mailbox stations using unattended Robot stations will 
continue to run roughshod over the PSK segments.  As the PSK segments are 
established by International Gentlemen's agreements, this proposal is of 
interest to the International community as well.


I have commented to my ARRL director, and am prepared to also comment to 
the FCC when the proposal is submitted.  The site 
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/hteller/changes.htm contains some 
recommendations for changes to the bandwidth proposal and suggestions on 
what to do.


Thanks for your attention,

Chas,  W1CG

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RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working

2005-08-17 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
James,

All those voltages look OK to me.  The voltage on pin 11 is dependent on the
state of the signal at pin 6.  If you wish to test it, pull pin 6 to a
negative level (jumper from pin 8 to 6) and you should see pin 11 go to 5
volts - a positive voltage on pin 6 should produce a 0 volt signal on pin
11.  The reason you see zero volts there now is that the chip is
interpreting the floating state of RXD at pin 6 as a positive voltage - all
that is OK because voltages between -3 and +3 volts on the RS-232 signals
are in a region of uncertainty.

Your problem likely lies with an unsoldered connection somewhere or a broken
inductor - check the miniature inductors for continuity.  You had previously
reported 0 volts on pin 2 of the 9 pin connector, but you have -9.85 volts
on pin 5 of U1 - the only series element between those points is an inductor
and it is likely the path is open if the voltages at the two points are
substantially different.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-


 Alright, I followed the steps for No (-) supply at U1-8 and this is
 what I got:

 The oscillator was oscillating at 16.292 mhz

 I took the voltage readings of U1.
 Pin 1 = 12.32
 Pin 2 = 0
 Pin 3 = 11.80
 Pin 4 = 0
 Pin 5 = -9.85
 Pin 6 = 0
 Pin 7 = 11.79
 Pin 8 = -9.85
 Pin 9 = 0
 Pin 10 = 0
 Pin 11 = 0 (This is supposed to have 5?)
 Pin 12 = 5.06
 Pin 13 = 4.8
 Pin 14 = 0
 Pin 15 = 4.81
 Pin 16 = 4.81

 The serial port is enabled in the menu.



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[Elecraft] EA3BLQ SK

2005-08-17 Thread Brian Broggie

Posting from Antoni Navarro...

I'm sad to communicate that Paulí Nuñez EA3BLQ passed away last July, 
20th; being 76. As I knew he traduced the K2 manual to Spanish, and 
designed a digital signal transmiter board to be used with the K2 I 
wanted to make know that to the mailing list's people.



Thank you.

Antoni Navarro
EA3CNO

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Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working

2005-08-17 Thread Jack Brindle
I agree with Don's analysis. Everything looks good around the MAX1406  
transceiver. Since you have -9 volts or so at the output (pin 5), and  
zero on the pin it feeds, there must be something amiss in between.  
The small inductors are easy to break - this might be the problem, as  
could be missing or 'bad' solder joints on either side of the  
inductor or at J1 pin 2 itself. Use a VOM or ZDVM to make sure that  
L2 has continuity (might as well check L3 and L4 at the same time),  
then recheck the solder joints. If the inductor is bad, I'm sure  
Scott will be happy to get you going with a good one...


Good luck!

- Jack Brindle, W6FB
 
-



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[Elecraft] All contesters will appreciate parts of this...

2005-08-17 Thread J F
Just was sent this link on VHF Contest Rovers, anyone
who contests a full weekend will probably appreciate
the humor:

http://vhfgroup.rochesterny.org/downloads/KB1EAA-Rover-2004-HighBW.asf


73,
Julius
n2wn
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Re: [Elecraft] All contesters will appreciate parts of this...

2005-08-17 Thread Jack Brindle
Gosh, what's that funny-looking white stuff all over the place?  
Doesn't look right for sand...


On Aug 17, 2005, at 10:44 AM, J F wrote:


Just was sent this link on VHF Contest Rovers, anyone
who contests a full weekend will probably appreciate
the humor:

http://vhfgroup.rochesterny.org/downloads/KB1EAA-Rover-2004-HighBW.asf


73,
Julius
n2wn
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-Jack Brindle, W6FB
===


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Re: [Elecraft] All contesters will appreciate parts of this...

2005-08-17 Thread Sandy, W5TVW
Jeese!  What's next?  I guess this is another excuse to watch football on TV and
work a contest at the same time?!

Wonder when they will advertise the automatic logging and QSOing Contest Robot
software?  Just plug it in, programming and hit the start key!!

Won't that be challenging?

73,

Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: J F [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft Discussion List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 12:44 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] All contesters will appreciate parts of this...


| Just was sent this link on VHF Contest Rovers, anyone
| who contests a full weekend will probably appreciate
| the humor:
| 
| http://vhfgroup.rochesterny.org/downloads/KB1EAA-Rover-2004-HighBW.asf
| 
| 
| 73,
| Julius
| n2wn
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| 
| 
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| Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
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| 
| 
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Re: [Elecraft] All contesters will appreciate parts of this...

2005-08-17 Thread Thom R LaCosta

On Wed, 17 Aug 2005, Sandy, W5TVW wrote:


Jeese!  What's next?  I guess this is another excuse to watch football on TV and
work a contest at the same time?!

Wonder when they will advertise the automatic logging and QSOing Contest Robot
software?  Just plug it in, programming and hit the start key!!


I believe it's called Winlink.

Thom

www.baltimorehon.com/Home of the Baltimore Lexicon
www.tlchost.net/hosting/ Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month
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RE: [Elecraft] All contesters will appreciate parts of this...

2005-08-17 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Sandy, W5TVW, wrote:

Jeese!  What's next?  I guess this is another excuse to watch football on TV
and work a contest at the same time?!

Wonder when they will advertise the automatic logging and QSOing Contest
Robot software?  Just plug it in, programming and hit the start key!!

Won't that be challenging?



There's a great QST cartoon by the famous Gil from sometime in the 1950's
showing a robot sitting at the operating desk banging away on the key so the
Ham can win contests while watching TV and snoozing. 

That's the problem with such jokes. They tend to come true!

I see the new Icom rig previewed in a QST ad even offers built-in television
reception on its LCD display to give the operator something to do while his
rig runs up the contest score...

Ron AC7AC


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[Elecraft] set help

2005-08-17 Thread Dave G3VGR


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[Elecraft] FS: KR5L tuning indicator for K2

2005-08-17 Thread john

Working, ready to install in your K2. With copy of instructions.

$12 postpaid.

73
John



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[Elecraft] Panasonic Oxyride battery in KX1 report

2005-08-17 Thread Leigh L Klotz, Jr.
I bought 8 Panasonic Oxyride AA's at Walgreenls for $10 and when my 
Energizer Lithiums gave out I switched them in.  These new batteries are 
1.7v and are marketed as lasting longer than traditional Alkaline.


The results were not good.

They measured 1.7v with my cheap backpack DVM, and the pack was about 
10.3v, and I get 9.9v on my KX1 volt meter from 6 of them in the 
internal holder.  Unfortunately, when I transmit on 20m, it goes down to 
8.5v, with 2W out shown (ATU match 1.2:1).


I will try cleaning the contacts, but for now it looks like they have a 
higher internal resistance than one might want.


Also, I found that, under no load, only one of my expired Lithium 
batteries had a low voltage; the others did not.  I know Li primary 
cells have a steady voltage throughout the discharge curve, but it may 
be that I can get some more life out of the rest somehow.


Leigh / WA5ZNU
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Re: [Elecraft] All contesters will appreciate parts of this...

2005-08-17 Thread J F
Tom,
Try http://vhfgroup.rochesterny.org/downloads

and pick the bandwidth. It may be a different plugin
for the various links.
Cheers,
Julius
n2wn

--- Tom Hammond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Julius:
 
 Link given fails...
 
 73,
 
 Tom   N0SS
 
 At 12:44 PM 8/17/2005, you wrote:
 Just was sent this link on VHF Contest Rovers,
 anyone
 who contests a full weekend will probably
 appreciate
 the humor:
 

http://vhfgroup.rochesterny.org/downloads/KB1EAA-Rover-2004-HighBW.asf
 
 
 73,
 Julius
 n2wn
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[Elecraft] Solar Panel Controllers

2005-08-17 Thread Don Brown
Hi

I have kitted up another batch of my Solar Controller Kits. The kit comes 
with all parts and a fiberglass silk screened and solder masked circuit 
board. This controller is designed to work with a 12 volt sealed lead acid 
or flooded lead acid battery. The battery can be any capacity from a couple 
of amp hours to over 100 amp hours. One or more solar panels from 3 watts to 
200 watts can be used with this controller. This is an analog design so it 
does not generate any RF as some switching regulators. The circuit board is 
2x3 inches and can be built into the radio or battery box. It uses a 
precision regulator so there are no adjustments required. The price for the 
kit is $30 check or money order.

Thanks

Don Brown
KD5NDB
19132 Falls Creek Drive
Flint, Texas 75762 
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Re: [Elecraft] All contesters will appreciate parts of this...

2005-08-17 Thread J F
Yep, it's a whole different world up North in the
great  white way... not to mention VHF/UHF contesting,
no multi/multi's from the Carribean! hi!

--- Jack Brindle [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Gosh, what's that funny-looking white stuff all over
 the place?  
 Doesn't look right for sand...
 
 On Aug 17, 2005, at 10:44 AM, J F wrote:
 
  Just was sent this link on VHF Contest Rovers,
 anyone
  who contests a full weekend will probably
 appreciate
  the humor:
 
 

http://vhfgroup.rochesterny.org/downloads/KB1EAA-Rover-2004-HighBW.asf
 
 
  73,
  Julius
  n2wn
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 -Jack Brindle, W6FB

===
 
 
 

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[Elecraft] Leather Case for K2

2005-08-17 Thread n2fq

Hello everyone.

I have made an inquiry to have a leather case made
for my K2. I was thinking of the type used
for binoculars with a shoulder strap. This way
the rig can be taken out and put back. Plain leather
without fancy adornments though.

Or one that fits snuggly around the K2 like a glove.
No need to have the rig remove, just open the front/rear
flap.

I have about four leather craftsman waiting for info/design.
This is just a exploratory note to see if any one else might
be interested. Details of cost/design etc will be later.

Perhaps the cost might be prohibited, I don't know.

Any one on the list gone down this path?

Comments to my email would be fine so that we
don't clutter the list.

--

73
Fernando N2FQ/NNNØJYM 
San Jose, CA

http://pages.sbcglobal.net/n2fq

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RE: [Elecraft] Leather Case for K2

2005-08-17 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Fernando, N2FQ wrote:

I have made an inquiry to have a leather case made
for my K2. I was thinking of the type used
for binoculars with a shoulder strap. This way
the rig can be taken out and put back. Plain leather
without fancy adornments though.

Or one that fits snuggly around the K2 like a glove.
No need to have the rig remove, just open the front/rear
flap.

-

Sounds neat, Fernando, but consider the need for cooling. Even the QRP K2
has a heat sink on the bottom that needs a little air space if you're
working in a warm location and doing very much transmitting. Maybe a stiff
floor in the case on  which the K2 feet rest so when the front and back
are open there's a gap between the feet under the unit. You could store a
log book and pencil in there for transit G.

Ron AC7AC


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Re: [Elecraft] Leather Case for K2

2005-08-17 Thread Leigh L Klotz, Jr.
There was a MountainOps nylon case at one point.
Last time I saw one on Ebay it went for more than my price range ($40 I
think).  I sent mail to the OM who ran Mountain Ops and never heard if
they had any more.  I have one for my 817.

 I have made an inquiry to have a leather case made
 for my K2. I was thinking of the type used
 for binoculars with a shoulder strap. This way
 the rig can be taken out and put back. Plain leather
 without fancy adornments though.


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[Elecraft] finding caps

2005-08-17 Thread David Morley W8IXY
on page 51 locating the following capicators c71 (82) and c73 (47)   there
is a 820 and an 4.7and c 182 (181) there is a 182


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[Elecraft] Ok, K2 progresses but now no audio.

2005-08-17 Thread Jess Gypin
I am testing the 40 meter receive and peaking filters at stage II testing. I
got the problem with the PLL licked and everything was working as
advertised. Now I cannot get any audio out of the radio. No hum, no hiss,
nothing with an antenna connected. I do get side tone and spot tone, so that
tells that the audio amp is working.

Where should I start?

Jess EACH


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Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working

2005-08-17 Thread james
Wow you guys are good! Heh, can't believe I missed that, but then again 
I build better than I diagnose! It was L2. No continuity at all. I 
checked the other inductors and they are fine. I called up Elecraft and 
tommorrow they will be sending a new one (or two) in the mail. Hopefully 
that will solve the problem as everything else voltage-wise checks out 
as it should. Thanks to all and I will update when I get the replacement 
part installed. 73,

James KB2FCV
- Original Message -
From: Jack Brindle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 12:38 pm
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working

 I agree with Don's analysis. Everything looks good around the 
 MAX1406  
 transceiver. Since you have -9 volts or so at the output (pin 5), 
 and  
 zero on the pin it feeds, there must be something amiss in between. 
 
 The small inductors are easy to break - this might be the problem, 
 as  
 could be missing or 'bad' solder joints on either side of the  
 inductor or at J1 pin 2 itself. Use a VOM or ZDVM to make sure that 
 
 L2 has continuity (might as well check L3 and L4 at the same time), 
 
 then recheck the solder joints. If the inductor is bad, I'm sure  
 Scott will be happy to get you going with a good one...
 
 Good luck!
 
 - Jack Brindle, W6FB
 
  
 -
 
 
 

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RE: [Elecraft] Ok, K2 progresses but now no audio.

2005-08-17 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Jess,

Where and how you start depends on what test equipment you have available.
To begin, we need to know whether the problem is in the audio stages or in
the remainder of the receiver.

Do you have a 'scope available?  How about an audio signal generator?  Do
you have a computer with a sound card that can be used as an audio source?
Do you have an audio amplifier available with a phono or mic input
available?

You can connect an audio amplifier input to the RF board J5 location (pin 2
is ground and pins 1 and 3 are the outputs from the product detector.  If
you can hear anything through the external audio amp with that setup, the
receiver is working up through the product detector.

Injecting an audio signal into RF Board J5 pin 1 or pin 3 (ground connection
to pin 2 should produce an amplified audio signal in the headphones if the
audio stages are working. You can use a computer sound card (line out or
speaker out) as the audio source - play a CD on the computer and listen for
any output from the K2 headphones (first make certain you can hear the
computer audio through the normal computer speakers to verify that the setup
is correct).

The fact that you have sidetone only shows that the final audio amplifier IC
is capable of output, the sidetone signal is injected into that IC separate
from the receiver audio path.

What I am really saying is that we need to know which half of the receiver
is at fault here - audio stages or RF/IF, product detector stages.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 I am testing the 40 meter receive and peaking filters at stage II
 testing. I
 got the problem with the PLL licked and everything was working as
 advertised. Now I cannot get any audio out of the radio. No hum, no hiss,
 nothing with an antenna connected. I do get side tone and spot
 tone, so that
 tells that the audio amp is working.

 Where should I start?

 Jess EACH


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RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working

2005-08-17 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
James,

Of course, we have been around this stuff for a while - that provides us
with a BIG advantage.
Glad you found it - looking forward to bigger and better things after you
get that KIO2 up and running.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 Wow you guys are good! Heh, can't believe I missed that, but then again
 I build better than I diagnose! It was L2. No continuity at all. I
 checked the other inductors and they are fine. I called up Elecraft and
 tommorrow they will be sending a new one (or two) in the mail. Hopefully
 that will solve the problem as everything else voltage-wise checks out
 as it should. Thanks to all and I will update when I get the replacement
 part installed. 73,

 James KB2FCV
 - Original Message -
 From: Jack Brindle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Date: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 12:38 pm
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working

  I agree with Don's analysis. Everything looks good around the
  MAX1406
  transceiver. Since you have -9 volts or so at the output (pin 5),
  and
  zero on the pin it feeds, there must be something amiss in between.
 
  The small inductors are easy to break - this might be the problem,
  as
  could be missing or 'bad' solder joints on either side of the
  inductor or at J1 pin 2 itself. Use a VOM or ZDVM to make sure that
 
  L2 has continuity (might as well check L3 and L4 at the same time),
 
  then recheck the solder joints. If the inductor is bad, I'm sure
  Scott will be happy to get you going with a good one...
 
  Good luck!
 
  - Jack Brindle, W6FB

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RE: [Elecraft] finding caps

2005-08-17 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
You would do well to review something like the ARRL Handbook 'Component
Data' section to become familiar with the various markings used for
capacitors.

The cap marked 820 should be 82 pf, the disc ceramic marked 4.7 is 4.7pf,
the cap marked 181 is 180 pf and the one marked 182 is 1800 pf.  A 47 pf
capacitor will likely be marked 470 or in exceptional cases marked 47.

The key is that a capacitor marked with 3 digits follows the '2 significant
digits plus multiplier' rule (the first two digits give the first two digits
of the value and the multiplier tells how many zeros to add to those two
digits) - values marked with only 2 digits are generally the actual value.

PS - ignore colors and other manufacturers markings - those things can
change as fast as parts suppliers manufacturing lines - I can tell you the
colors of tha capacitors shipped with the last K2 I built, but those colors
may have changed with the next one off the kitting line.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 on page 51 locating the following capicators c71 (82) and c73 (47)   there
 is a 820 and an 4.7and c 182 (181) there is a 182



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Re: [Elecraft] Leather Case for K2

2005-08-17 Thread Daniel Reynolds
I'm thinking that any industrious ham could easily pick up where this fellow
left off and make cases like this - I've been pondering this myself since I'd
also love a black nylon carry bag for my K2 to tow it along with my buddipole
when I go picnic table portable.

-Daniel AA0NI
Oklahoma City

--- Leigh L Klotz, Jr. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 There was a MountainOps nylon case at one point.
 Last time I saw one on Ebay it went for more than my price range ($40 I
 think).  I sent mail to the OM who ran Mountain Ops and never heard if
 they had any more.  I have one for my 817.
 
  I have made an inquiry to have a leather case made
  for my K2. I was thinking of the type used
  for binoculars with a shoulder strap. This way
  the rig can be taken out and put back. Plain leather
  without fancy adornments though.
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Ok, K2 progresses but now no audio.

2005-08-17 Thread Matt Osborn
Jess,

Make sure you have the jumpers installed in place of R18  R19 on the
bottom of the control board.  These jumpers provide the path for the
output of the product detector U11 on the RF board.

If no go, check the RF board jumpers W1, W6, W5, W2 and W3  to make
sure the RF is getting to the receiver preamp, mixer, the variable
bandwidth crystal filter and then to the IF Amp and Product detector.

From the product detector, PD1 and PD2 go through RF board J7 to P2 on
the control board. On the control board, you've got Q6 and Q7 which
disconnect the AF amp when transmitting.


On Wed, 17 Aug 2005 19:17:32 -0600, Jess Gypin
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I am testing the 40 meter receive and peaking filters at stage II testing. I
got the problem with the PLL licked and everything was working as
advertised. Now I cannot get any audio out of the radio. No hum, no hiss,
nothing with an antenna connected. I do get side tone and spot tone, so that
tells that the audio amp is working.

Where should I start?

Jess EACH


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[Elecraft] K2 tinny speaker

2005-08-17 Thread Craig Rairdin
Finished the KPA100 and installed it in the K2 and I must say I'm
disappointed with the audio quality. It sounds like I'm overdriving the
speaker but the volume isn't near what it was with the original speaker. Is
this normal for the K2? If not, any suggestions on how to make it sound
better?

Craig
NZ0R
K1 #1966
K2/100 #4941

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RE: [Elecraft] K2 tinny speaker

2005-08-17 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Craig,

Certainly - just in case the speaker frame is bent, take the speaker from
the QRP top cover and mount it in the KPA100 - it should sound the same -
the only difference is the wires, and wires do not add distortion.

OTOH, you are judging the sound quality with the KPA100 fully in place on
the K2, are you not?  If you are making judgements with the KPA100 laying on
the bench beside the K2, be aware that the enclosure provided by the K2/100
adds a LOT to the quality of the speaker sound - the base K2 speaker sounds
a bit ' tinny' when the cover is removed from the K2.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 Finished the KPA100 and installed it in the K2 and I must say I'm
 disappointed with the audio quality. It sounds like I'm overdriving the
 speaker but the volume isn't near what it was with the original
 speaker. Is
 this normal for the K2? If not, any suggestions on how to make it sound
 better?

 Craig
 NZ0R
 K1 #1966
 K2/100 #4941

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Re: [Elecraft] Leather Case for K2

2005-08-17 Thread Stuart Rohre
You can find many suitable cases at places selling to other markets than ham 
radio.

One time, I realized a lot of QRP rigs fit the insulated coolers for six 
packs.  Makes a good way to store your rig in a car full time.

Larger cases with room for air to circulate would work for operational field 
cases.  Check out old camera gadget bags with hard sides at used camera 
stores or pawn shops.

Stuart
K5KVH 




RE: [Elecraft] Panasonic Oxyride battery in KX1 report

2005-08-17 Thread EricJ
Last night I was in Lowe's for one of my interminable shopping trips to keep
my house upright, and they had the L91's $9.89 for a 4-pack, regular price.
It's getting where an external 10-pack of L91s is getting affordable.

Eric
KE6US
www.ke6us.com



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Leigh L Klotz, Jr.
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 1:53 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Panasonic Oxyride battery in KX1 report

I bought 8 Panasonic Oxyride AA's at Walgreenls for $10 and when my
Energizer Lithiums gave out I switched them in.  These new batteries are
1.7v and are marketed as lasting longer than traditional Alkaline.

The results were not good.

They measured 1.7v with my cheap backpack DVM, and the pack was about 10.3v,
and I get 9.9v on my KX1 volt meter from 6 of them in the internal holder.
Unfortunately, when I transmit on 20m, it goes down to 8.5v, with 2W out
shown (ATU match 1.2:1).

I will try cleaning the contacts, but for now it looks like they have a
higher internal resistance than one might want.

Also, I found that, under no load, only one of my expired Lithium batteries
had a low voltage; the others did not.  I know Li primary cells have a
steady voltage throughout the discharge curve, but it may be that I can get
some more life out of the rest somehow.

Leigh / WA5ZNU
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