It's been years since I melted 300 ohm twin lead...
Can I use it for a 44 foot each side of center doublet at 100 watts out? I
can't find any other open wire feedline locally, and I need to get something up
in the airI keep on walking into the slinky that runs down my hallway.
I'm
I have put 300 watts from a single 813
grounded grid amp into a doublet made
using 300 ohm twin lead. No problem.
de Joe, aa4nn
- Original Message -
From: Thom LaCosta [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 14, 2007 7:26 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Twin Lead
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Julian G4ILO wrote:
Many digimode enthusiasts do get annoyed about PACTOR robot stations.
But mostly the digital modes each keep to different areas of the
digital sub-band and there is not very much conflict - unless you're
using some new mode
I always find a DMM that measures capacitance and inductance
very handy to check parts. I have a wavetech that cost about $80.00
about 5 years ago that does that.
I did NOT do a parts inventory, I had no patience for one, was
missing no parts, but had a few places where I had trouble identifying
Must haves
==
Good light
Magnifying glass
Dental pick
Negative lock tweezers (big ones do not send parts flying)
Good Multi-meter
Handy items
===
Frequency counter - or you can wait till all is complete and use
WWV/Spectogram
Capacitance meter - not required, but it helped me
On Tue, 14 Aug 2007, Brett gazdzinski wrote:
The caps I tried to organize in piles on the desk with the values
written in pencil on the desk, there are a LOT of caps and a LOT
of different valuesa LOT of piles
ergo, a nice big, clean table space for all the piles is ideal. If
Yes, plastic organizer boxes did help. In the craft section at
Wal-Mart. Sorted and inventoried parts and put caps, diodes, resistors
in one, and misc hardware in the other. Helped out quite a bit.
David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 #5982
David Wilburn wrote:
Must haves
==
John,
Congratulations on your decision.
Equip yourself with a set of flush cutters if you don't already have
them - while diagonal cutters will be OK for the K2, flush cutters are
required in a few areas of the KPA100 and several other options -
overall they make a neater finished product.
Rework Eliminators - They're great provided you are willing to spend the
time to make sure they get installed right. They represent a departure
from the normal build process and if you mess things up, then debugging
may be tougher. I went with them, and was careful. I had only one bad
solder
Just a comment here - keep the ICs and transistors in their black foam
(or pink plastic bags) ESD safe holders. Remember that many plastics
can build a static charge. I suggest that you ignore any thoughts
about sticking the components into styrofoam - that does generate static.
As another
John,
There's lots of good advice here - I used a small pocket
magnifier to read the markings on some of the components. At some point
I bought a magnifying lamp from the local office supply store - it
worked fine for reading component values and for lighting the work, but
the range of
Tools I found useful:
- Magnifying ring light
I find an Optivisor works much better for me. A ring light magnifier
gives me a headache, besides being bulky and hard on whatever it is
clamped to...
73,
Lyle KK7P
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John,
Everyone has great ideas. Here are mine. I like the visor as well. I got one
for five bucks. Very good to have. I also use ice cube trays (Plastic) for a
parts bin. Sometimes things do not fit will, but it does work quite well. You
can use muffin tins as well, but I would not
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On Tue, 14 Aug 2007, Brett gazdzinski wrote:
The caps I tried to organize in piles on the desk with the values
written in pencil on the desk, there are a LOT of caps and a LOT
of different valuesa LOT of piles
ergo, a nice big, clean table space for all
Congratulations on your decision to build a K2 with your son. I concur with
the advice you are getting about having good lighting, ESD protection, vice,
etc.
If you don't already have them, I think a great way to introduce your son
into the kit building process would be to have him build the
At 08:28 08/14/2007, Don Wilhelm wrote:
As another personal taste note, I find that digging into a cup-like
or box-like container to extract parts is a pain - I line up leaded
parts by value and stick their leads into the edge of corrugated
cardboard. A USPS Priority Mail box cut in half
John
When the K2 is finished and it's time for alignment,
many of us use a noise generator to feed the receiver,
the Spectrogram audio spectrum analyzer program
to set the filters up for the best results, and an
oscilloscope to display the resulting filter passbands.
I believe the free version of
Thom
There are various grades of 300 ohm twinlead.
Some are very cheap and have pretty skimpy
conductors. Some are good quality. There is/was
at least one version that was suitable for transmitting
(power level not stated that I can recall). If you
have some of the good quality stuff, you can
Perhaps it deserves saying the obvious: DO NOT USE FOAM CONTAINERS FOR
ELECTRONIC PARTS!! (Unless, perhaps, you're working with vacuum tubes G)
Expanded foam in any form is a wonderful static generator. It doesn't take
enough static to see or feel a spark to destroy parts, only enough to exceed
I have been using TruValue twin lead at $14/100 feet for the past 4
years on both my G5RV and my 40 meter loop. Works just fine. Best
bargain around. Since I only need 40 feet on either antenna, if it goes
bad, I just use the other half of what is left with some to spare.
Jozef WB2MIC
Hi All,
My operating experience is fairly limited, so I have a question about operating
the K2.
What circumstances would cause one to turn off the pre-amp? And related, what
circumstances would cause one to turn on the attenuator? Even my old FT-101
had an attenuator to switch in, but I
In a nutshell, band conditions.
At times, on 80 or 40m, signals and noise will be plenty strong.
So then I switch in the attenuator.
The preamp is mainly for use on 20m and up, especially if you
are using just wire antennas without the gain of a beam. If you
have a good beam, and signals are
Hi, Matthew!
The less gain you have before signals reach the I.F. filters, the greater
range of signals your rig can handle without overloading. Very strong
signals outside the I.F. bandpass can cause many problems if they are strong
enough to drive one of the stages into non-linear operation.
Egg cartons for trays
de Joe, aa4nn
You can get ice cube trays at the Dollar General Storeor other small
plastic containers as well.
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John,
My son is 14. He has gone with me to help setup field day. He
currently has the furthest from home contact. I am building my second K2
(K2/100 when done). I bought the DL1 and XG2 from what I learned from the
first K2. I supervised my son as he built the mini-modules. He saw the
On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 09:26:19 -0500, Craig Rairdin wrote:
If your eyes require it, get a god magnifier.
God magnifiers are also good for spotting the devil, who is said
to be in the details. Either way a good god magnifier is worth
the investment.
Note that one of the holiness prayers of the
Matt
asking questions is a good thing. 2 great answers
already posted. here is the 'punch line':
for 80, 40 and 30m i suggest you turn the preamp off.
(to confirm, with your antenna matched to the rig -
tune in a weak signal and verify that preamp makes no
difference here in detecting the
I've just re-read your question. So, the twin lead is not for the feeder,
it's for the arms of the doublet, or possibly both. I presume to widen the
frequency response. There are some interesting ideas for using ribbon as
antennas.
If it's the pale pink variety, the only thing I would
Thank you all for the comments. A rough summary includes:
- Think ESD for the parts (no worries there... I am the ESD promoter at
our electronics lab at work)
- No parts in non ESD foam
- No parts in cardboard, etc.
- Small anti-static mat with wrist straps, etc.
- Keep active parts in
I buolt a cute circuit with a 2n7000 from an idea I saw at the Maker
Faire.. It is an E field probe: you can light up (or extinguish,
depending on your charge polarity) an LED with the proximity of your
finger from half a foot.
It can be very instructive in seeing where you have static, and
I have been hearing this for many days in row now and doing a Google search on
it I found some disturbing info. It seems that this freq. is being used for
telephone equipment. Intel among others has applied for patents using this
frequency.
Does anyone know what the signal I am hearing on
Hi Jack,
In my shack, the carrier on 14.030 is from my Linksys Wireless router.
73,
ed - k9ew
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Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
In my shack, the carrier on 14.030 is from my Linksys Wireless router.
Same here, but from a NetGear router. Fortunately very weak and hasn't
prevented any QSOs yet that I know about.
... Craig AC0DS
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Ed,
I also have a Linksys router but it is unplugged! I guess I'll have to do a
little RDF. Several of my neighbors have networks! If they are interfering
with an amatuer frequency could I ask them to cease and desist?
This could turn into an ugly situation!
I hope that something else is
Do they have the license to emit this frequency, or just use it internally
inside some equipment?
-- Alan, wb6zqz
-- Original message --
From: Jack Regan [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I have been hearing this for many days in row now and doing a Google search
on
it I found
On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 15:09:10 -0700 (PDT), Jack Regan wrote:
I also have a Linksys router but it is unplugged! I guess I'll
have to do a little RDF. Several of my neighbors have networks!
If they are interfering with an amatuer frequency could I ask
them to cease and desist?
You could always
On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 23:48:57 +0100, David Cutter wrote:
This comes under the category unintentional radiator and there
are legal limits that must be met. One problem I can see is that
the equipment could be tested and approved without wiring it into
a system and it might meet the requirements,
Hi Group,
I have this problem too. I fixed a lot of the initial interference (mostly
hash) by going from wired to wireless, but I still have these CW signals on
several bands.
I can't figure out how to switch my gear to limit it to 10 mB. I'm using a
D-Link wireless G airport/access point.
I have two 100 megabit switches within six feet of the radio, and can
barely hear the spur on 14.030, so experience varies. Two spurs at
21.055 are below s0 with preamp #2 on. Wonder where the gigabit spurs
are, that may be another solution, though gig switches are 100
compatible as well..
On Tue, 14 Aug 2007 15:25:06 -0700, Leigh L Klotz, Jr. wrote:
Also 21.060. It is from 100 megabit ethernwt devices. Switch your
shack to 10 megabit ethernet and it will be only your neighbors QRP
transmitters with end-fed long wire antennas (CAT5 wiring) that you
hear.
Not that easy. If
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