Re: [Elecraft] K3s and RemoteRig

[Fred Jensen]

There are two questions on the list, here's what I know to both:

Re quoted message below:  Yes.  RemoteRig will install 4 "virtual" COM 
ports.  View them in the Device Manager under PORTS.  If you're 
fortunate, they will be labeled RRC-1258 COM0, -COM1, -COM2, and -COM 
Extra.  See below if you're not fortunate. Following each one, in [ ], 
will be another COM port. Find the RRC-1258 COM1 port and use the [COMx] 
as the port in your logger as the K3 port.  It is really talking to the 
remote radio.  It's more or less transparent.


For the less fortunate: Sometimes some flavors of Win10 show the ports 
in the Device Mangler, however they will be missing the RRC-1258 label.  
Watch as you turn on the RRC, they always seem to come up in the order 
listed above, label or not.


Re your other message: Yes, it is essentially like "being there," or 
more appropriately, it is just as if your K3/mini is making the RF.  
There is just barely noticeable latency if you spin the dial rapidly, 
and there will be some I'net QRN [quick pops, and snaps], and 
occasionally dropouts, depending on your connection and ISP.  BW 
requirements are fairly low, maybe 150-200 KBps, from watching the 
router here[50 MBps ATT Uverse] here.


Teamviewer [or similar] can be used to control your station automation, 
including the control program for the KPA500 or [I presume] the 
KPA1500.  Getting the P3 to work is another issue with no simple answer. 
The P3 takes input from the remote K3's 8 MHz first IF.  The P3 at the 
remote is also connected to the remote K3 which makes the various modes 
work and track the radio.I'm sure many technological suggestions will be 
forthcoming here, but believe me, it is non-trivial.


Teamviewer latency is annoyingand makes dragging windows around the 
screen or resizing them very frustrating. Controlling rotators works OK 
but you need to cultivate a high degree of patience with the mouse.


If you want to switch the remote radio to local when you're there, just 
disconnect the RRC-1258.  A lot of the details depend on how you're 
keying and connecting the mic/headphones/spkrs.  Running remote, keying 
the mini [from the internal keyer or the key jack] keys the remote. The 
mic/line in function just as if they were connected AT the remote.


Hope this helps

73,

Fred ("Skip") K6DGW
Sparks NV USA
Washoe County DM09dn

On 8/13/2017 5:34 PM, Jim Miller wrote:

Another K3/0-mini RR question:

If I have a laptop at the control point running my logging program or N1MM+
for contesting how does it communicate with K3/0-mini if the mini is
connected to the RR?

thanks

jim ab3cv



On Sun, Aug 13, 2017 at 8:08 PM, Jim Miller  wrote:


I have a K3s, P3 (and someday a KPA1500) and I'm considering a RemoteRig
and K3/Mini for remote operation.

I realize the P3 access and KPA1500 if any will need to come from some
other source like Teamviewer or VNC. I need that for controlling the
rotator and power switching anyway.

I'm told that RR/K3-mini performance is like "being there."

One issue I have is the amount of disconnecting and reconnecting of cables
when switching from local operation of the K3s to setting up for remote
operation.

Nothing I've seen in the documentation leads me to believe that this
reconfiguration of cabling for the K3s is any simpler that what is needed
for the original K3.

For those of you who have RR and a K3s: did I miss something? Does the
cleaned up wiring on the K3s via USB for normal local operation offer any
advantages when it comes to RR configuration?

Thanks

jim ab3cv




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Re: [Elecraft] K3s and RemoteRig

[Rick Tavan]

It's not nearly as bad as one might think, Jim. I operate my mountain
station both locally and remotely. When I leave that location, I have a
little checklist. Well, it's not completely little, but most of it is stuff
that rarely changes. I don't have to move ANY cables to convert from local
to remote operation. Here's how:

   - The local speaker at the remote site connects to SPKR on the K3. The
   RRC audio in connects to PHONES. The local headset and speaker are in
   parallel but the powered speaker has an Off switch.
   - The local mic and the RRC Mic Out connect to K3 Mic In, in parallel.
   - The local external keyer and the RRC key out line connect to K3 Key
   In, in parallel.
   - The local PTT line and the RRC PTT out line connect to K3 PTT In, in
   parallel.
   - The K3 RS232 connects to a two position rotary DB9 switch. One side
   goes to the P3 for local operation only. The other side goes to the RRC for
   remote operation only. The Go Remote checklist says "Set RS232 Switch to
   Remote." These switches are abundant and cheap online. Mine is called "QVS
   SureGrip Commercial Dataswitch." I think it cost about $10.
   - The checklist reminds me to set K3 AF gains to 9:00. This isn't
   critical but my logger often sends commands to the K3 that cause it to
   reset to the physical position of those knobs. (Yes, that's weird.) If
   they're fully CCW, the audio goes dead until I twiddle the control side K3
   (or K3-0) AF gain control(s).
   - I use N1MM Logger Plus at either end, only one at a time. Operating
   locally, the computer connects to the P3 and is set to the appropriate COM
   port number. At the control site, the computer connects to the control RRC
   and is set to the COM port number corresponding to what the RRC confusingly
   calls its own "COM1."


   - My control site is a K3 which can operate either as a control head for
   the remote K3 or as a local radio. Switching is similar to what I describe
   above, including an RS232 switch, although Mic, Audio, and PTT circuits are
   in the opposite directions.

That's all there is to it except for extra added attractions:

   - Amplifier control is via KPA500 Remote, KAT500 Remote and Alpha
   Remote. The Elecraft apps run in client/server config with the server side
   on a dedicated shack computer ($250) at the remote site. I access Alpha
   Remote via a remote desktop facility to the same server.
   - Antenna switching is automated at the remote site using Top Ten
   decoders, diode matrix, and WX0B Six Pak.
   - A remotely controlled relay board controls which amp to use, which
   band segments are set on my 80M rotary dipole, and whether the SteppIR or
   tribander is in use on the high bands. This is complicated but imminently
   achievable.
   - Rotator control is via PstRotatorAz, running client/server.
   - All 120V AC power is controlled via a remote AC switch box from
   Digital Loggers. Older versions work fine and are reasonably priced at
   closeout stores. I set mine up with two user IDs. The usual ID only
   controls the shack 12VDC PS and the rotor. A special Admin ID can also
   power cycle things that usually stay on like the server computer, cable
   modem, and router.
   - If you choose to use a local server computer like I do, make sure to
   get one that reboots after a power failure! Most laptops don't. Most old,
   surplus machines intended for server use have this as an optional feature.

In total, it's a lot of integration. But I also have a lot of flexibility.
I still don't have remote panadapter display, dang it. But there is some
good work going on with tools like Win4K3Suite, LP-PAN, external SDRs, etc.
that may help here once I make time to learn them.

GL & 73,

/Rick N6XI

On Sun, Aug 13, 2017 at 5:08 PM, Jim Miller  wrote:

> I have a K3s, P3 (and someday a KPA1500) and I'm considering a RemoteRig
> and K3/Mini for remote operation.
>
> I realize the P3 access and KPA1500 if any will need to come from some
> other source like Teamviewer or VNC. I need that for controlling the
> rotator and power switching anyway.
>
> I'm told that RR/K3-mini performance is like "being there."
>
> One issue I have is the amount of disconnecting and reconnecting of cables
> when switching from local operation of the K3s to setting up for remote
> operation.
>
> Nothing I've seen in the documentation leads me to believe that this
> reconfiguration of cabling for the K3s is any simpler that what is needed
> for the original K3.
>
> For those of you who have RR and a K3s: did I miss something? Does the
> cleaned up wiring on the K3s via USB for normal local operation offer any
> advantages when it comes to RR configuration?
>
> Thanks
>
> jim ab3cv
> __
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> This list hosted 

Re: [Elecraft] KRC2 with K3 and RemoteRig

[Paul Christensen]

>"The KRC2 connects quite nicely to the K3's AuxBus. In fact this is the
recommended method for using the KRC2 with the K3.
It will respond to the band change information the K3 sends on that medium.
The Auxbus is on the K3's AUX IO connector. As I recall, it is on pin 2,
with ground on Pin 5. See the KRC2 manual for more information.
If you have questions about the KRC2, just ask! - Jack, W6FB
Elecraft Engineering"

Jack, exactly what I needed.  Many thanks!

Paul, W9AC

-Original Message-
From: Paul Christensen [mailto:w...@arrl.net] 
Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2017 4:37 PM
To: 'elecraft@mailman.qth.net' 
Subject: KRC2 with K3 and RemoteRig

I have a need to automatically switch antennas based on the K3's band data.
Is it possible to use the Elecraft KRC2 device with the K3 + RemoteRig?  The
K3's RS232 port is already connected to the RemoteRig RRC unit.  What is
Elecraft's recommendation to accomplish data splitting between all three
units?  

Paul, W9AC 

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Re: [Elecraft] KRC2 with K3 and RemoteRig

[Jack Brindle]

The KRC2 connects quite nicely to the K3’s AuxBus. In fact this is the 
recommended method for using the KRC2 with the K3.
It will respond to the band change information the K3 sends on that medium.

The Auxbus is on the K3’s AUX IO connector. As I recall, it is on pin 2, with 
ground on Pin 5. See the KRC2 manual for more information.
If you have questions about the KRC2, just ask!

- Jack, W6FB
Elecraft Engineering


> On Aug 13, 2017, at 1:36 PM, Paul Christensen  wrote:
> 
> I have a need to automatically switch antennas based on the K3's band data.
> Is it possible to use the Elecraft KRC2 device with the K3 + RemoteRig?  The
> K3's RS232 port is already connected to the RemoteRig RRC unit.  What is
> Elecraft's recommendation to accomplish data splitting between all three
> units?  
> 
> Paul, W9AC 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Some K2 notes after completion

[Robert G Strickland]

Anthony...

I wouldn't say it's a "basic" radio but rather that it is just about a 
state-of-the-art radio without bells and whistles. What the K2 does it 
does just about as well as any of the "modern" radios. You'll enjoy it 
more and more as you use it.


...robert

On 08/12/2017 14:00, Anthony Clare wrote:

Hello all.

I just wanted to pass along a few tidbits after the completion of my K2 (2
months ago).

First, I want to thank Don for his patience during my low BFO level issue. In
the end, none of the normal fixes alone seemed to work. However, that problem
was solved by changing a capacitor value in combination with the usual fixes.
I did learn how critical the installation of the BFO toroid was for proper
level and frequency range. Unfortunately, in my case, it was not quite enough
in itself. All good now, though.

I thought I did a good enough job installing C70. I did not. Sure enough,
during some field day testing, I had the horrible distortion on signals around
7185 kHz. I shortened up the one lead on C70 just a little more. Problem
solved!
Do not leave ANY extra length on those leads!

I am curious how others have dealt with the new tuning knob. It is a nice
knob, but will not reach the felt pad on the front panel. I suppose you could
stack a few pads, but you would need to fill at least a 3/16" gap. On my knob,
I attached a thick brass disc that fits within the indentation on the back of
the knob and is drilled out in the center the clear the shaft nut on the
encoder. This fills the space behind the knob. Since the disc is smaller in
diameter, it does not interfere with the display bezel. I was going the drill
and tap the back of the knob and use countersunk screws on the disc to hold
it. However, I super glued the disc to the knob to perform a temporary test
and it did not want to come back off for drilling. I guess I do not need the
screws after all.

Overall, I have been enjoying this rig and have been very pleased with the
performance and the amount of functions built into the programming. I was a
little worried about spending a lot of money for such a basic radio, but it
bothers me less every time I use it.

Have a good day,
Anthony
n3kcb








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--
Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net.usa
Syracuse, New York, USA
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s and RemoteRig

[Jim Miller]

Another K3/0-mini RR question:

If I have a laptop at the control point running my logging program or N1MM+
for contesting how does it communicate with K3/0-mini if the mini is
connected to the RR?

thanks

jim ab3cv



On Sun, Aug 13, 2017 at 8:08 PM, Jim Miller  wrote:

> I have a K3s, P3 (and someday a KPA1500) and I'm considering a RemoteRig
> and K3/Mini for remote operation.
>
> I realize the P3 access and KPA1500 if any will need to come from some
> other source like Teamviewer or VNC. I need that for controlling the
> rotator and power switching anyway.
>
> I'm told that RR/K3-mini performance is like "being there."
>
> One issue I have is the amount of disconnecting and reconnecting of cables
> when switching from local operation of the K3s to setting up for remote
> operation.
>
> Nothing I've seen in the documentation leads me to believe that this
> reconfiguration of cabling for the K3s is any simpler that what is needed
> for the original K3.
>
> For those of you who have RR and a K3s: did I miss something? Does the
> cleaned up wiring on the K3s via USB for normal local operation offer any
> advantages when it comes to RR configuration?
>
> Thanks
>
> jim ab3cv
>
>
>
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[Elecraft] K3s and RemoteRig

[Jim Miller]

I have a K3s, P3 (and someday a KPA1500) and I'm considering a RemoteRig
and K3/Mini for remote operation.

I realize the P3 access and KPA1500 if any will need to come from some
other source like Teamviewer or VNC. I need that for controlling the
rotator and power switching anyway.

I'm told that RR/K3-mini performance is like "being there."

One issue I have is the amount of disconnecting and reconnecting of cables
when switching from local operation of the K3s to setting up for remote
operation.

Nothing I've seen in the documentation leads me to believe that this
reconfiguration of cabling for the K3s is any simpler that what is needed
for the original K3.

For those of you who have RR and a K3s: did I miss something? Does the
cleaned up wiring on the K3s via USB for normal local operation offer any
advantages when it comes to RR configuration?

Thanks

jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?

[Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT]

If you are end-feeding a wire, and it's near a half-wave on the band 
you're operating (let's say 32 3/4 feet, and 14.300 MHz) an end-fed wire 
is going to be close to infinite impedance, and you need some kind of 
Un-Un (9:1 being common) to step up from 50 ohms or thereabouts.


If you're trying to operate on the same frequency, and the wire is more 
like 48 feet, the impedance will be a whole lot lower and no transformer 
is indicated.


This is the myth of the "random" wire, and why one "random" wire works 
like gangbusters, and the next "random" wire is kinda lousy.


Antenna theory matters.

73 -- Lynn

On 8/13/2017 9:09 AM, Walter Underwood wrote:

In July, five SOTA operators put up seven different antennas on a summit and 
compared their performance with WSPR. Six of the antennas were mostly within 3 
dB of each other. The EARCHI antenna (end-fed with transformer) was  between 6 
and 15 dB worse than the others. So in one experiment, the 9:1 transformer did 
not help.

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Re: [Elecraft] B Folded Dipole over an Armory

[Fred Jensen]

Not sure where he got the "chief use" from, all the T2FD's I've ever 
seen [and can remember] were transmit/receive, usually using KWM-2A's.  
But, yes, the amount of power dissipated in the termination depends on 
the frequency vs the overall length. We used them in the 60's in SE Asia 
and our maint depot guys would adjust the length so that the lowest loss 
areas were around our assigned frequencies which were generally in the 
2.5 to 10 MHz range, usually two of them [day/night], sometimes a third.


Same situation with the large V-beams and Rhombics in commercial 
servicewhich accounts for the land area occupied by a commercial MF/HF 
TX site: One V-beam does not fit all frequencies.


TheT2FD's sure beat a fan dipole since, once on the ground, we had way 
more important things to do than adjust antennas. [:-)


73,

Fred ("Skip") K6DGW
Sparks NV USA
Washoe County DM09dn

On 8/13/2017 2:41 PM, Roger D Johnson wrote:
Cebik, W4RNL, modeled two versions of the T2FT. One 165ft long and the 
other 100ft.

Here is what he said about these antennas:

Terminator Resistor Losses
Although transmitting uses have been made of the T2FD, its chief use 
appears to be as a short wave reception antenna. In this application, 
the excess available receiver gain can largely make up for losses 
incurred in the terminating resistor.


The losses in the terminating resistor are considerable, ranging from 
nearly half power to amounts in excess of 90% of the available RF 
power. The pattern of losses is not a simple smooth curve, but varies 
throughout the operating range of the antenna. The following graph 
plots the losses in terms of dB. For reference, a 3 dB power loss 
represents half the power being dissipated in the resistor. Higher 
values indicate more of the power being dissipated rather than being 
radiated (or transferred to the receiver).


73, Roger


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[Elecraft] B Folded Dipole over an Armory

[Roger D Johnson]

Cebik, W4RNL, modeled two versions of the T2FT. One 165ft long and the other 
100ft.
Here is what he said about these antennas:

Terminator Resistor Losses
Although transmitting uses have been made of the T2FD, its chief use appears to 
be as a short wave reception antenna. In this application, the excess available 
receiver gain can largely make up for losses incurred in the terminating resistor.


The losses in the terminating resistor are considerable, ranging from nearly 
half power to amounts in excess of 90% of the available RF power. The pattern of 
losses is not a simple smooth curve, but varies throughout the operating range 
of the antenna. The following graph plots the losses in terms of dB. For 
reference, a 3 dB power loss represents half the power being dissipated in the 
resistor. Higher values indicate more of the power being dissipated rather than 
being radiated (or transferred to the receiver).


73, Roger


On 8/13/2017 3:36 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:

Ummm ... let's be truthful here.  The B folded dipole can be found in radio catalogs from 
the 50's.  We all knew [I was a kid with a new license then and even I knew] that the doohicky at 
the center of the top wire was a 400 or so ohm non-inductive resistor, and half the power [3 dB] 
heated it up.  There was no subterfuge and B wasn't "conning" anyone, it was very 
clear in the specification sheet.  300 ohms at the feed point, hams often fed them with 300 ohm 
TV twinlead of the day to a balanced link coupled to the final tank circuit.  A 4:1 transformer 
netted 75 ohms which nicely matched that twinlead too.







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Re: [Elecraft] P3 setup

[Dave Cole]

Have fun...  Look into setting up the Genovation pad, it is a blast to 
just hit the "SPLIT+5" button and have the entire radio and P3 preset 
themselves in about 2 seconds...  :)  Great for DX...


Take care!

73s and thanks,
Dave
NK7Z
http://www.nk7z.net

On 08/13/2017 01:34 PM, Chuck Teague via Elecraft wrote:

Thanks for the quick response, gentlemen.  I've got what I need now, and
Dave, thanks for the link to your site with the spreadsheet.  Much
appreciated.

Chuck
NN7U



-
Chuck Teague
NN7U
--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/P3-setup-tp767p7633361.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] B Folded Dipole over an Armory

[n4xy]

I have an NOS stainless steel version of the 160M B antenna that I bought 20 
or 30 years ago. Now I can't put it up because I don't want to interfere with 
the pattern of my HyGain HyTower. If anyone is interested in it, just send me 
an email. It will not be inexpensive. Thanks. 


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 Original message 
From: Barry  
Date: 8/13/17  4:59 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Dave Heil , elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] B Folded Dipole over an Armory 

Dave,
 They are used by a greater number than just state. The military, 
all, are using HF ALE. It's used because, you are correct about 
operators, a link can be set up by just IDing with whom you wish to 
talk. The radios run up and down the spectrum until they find each other 
and can make a solid linkup. No antenna is flat across that much 
spectrum, so in recent times, the T2FD has been employed. It seems 
auto-tuners don't keep up with the sounding rate from some of these 
radios. It was interesting to me to see the magnificent antenna field at 
Rockwell-Collins in Iowa augmented with a T2FD so that they could do 
work with their ALE radios. Harris Corp. does the same.

73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Dave Heil" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 8/13/2017 4:03:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] B Folded Dipole over an Armory

>The U.S. Department of State uses many of these B folded dipoles in 
>Africa and other nations with HF transceivers meant to be used by those 
>with little or no radio operations experience.  All the user needs do 
>is consult a list of places and frequencies (which are all programmed 
>into memory), key the microphone and talk.  These antennas weren't made 
>to work DX and neither were the transceivers.  Any easy way to make up 
>for the inefficiency is to switch on one of the 500 or 1000 matching 
>amplifiers, none of which requires manual band switching or tuning up.
>
>Dave K8MN
>
>On 13-Aug-17 19:36, Fred Jensen wrote:
>>Ummm ... let's be truthful here.  The B folded dipole can be found 
>>in radio catalogs from the 50's.  We all knew [I was a kid with a new 
>>license then and even I knew] that the doohicky at the center of the 
>>top wire was a 400 or so ohm non-inductive resistor, and half the 
>>power [3 dB] heated it up...
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Re: [Elecraft] B Folded Dipole over an Armory

[Roger D Johnson]

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Re: [Elecraft] B Folded Dipole over an Armory

[Barry]

Dave,
They are used by a greater number than just state. The military, 
all, are using HF ALE. It's used because, you are correct about 
operators, a link can be set up by just IDing with whom you wish to 
talk. The radios run up and down the spectrum until they find each other 
and can make a solid linkup. No antenna is flat across that much 
spectrum, so in recent times, the T2FD has been employed. It seems 
auto-tuners don't keep up with the sounding rate from some of these 
radios. It was interesting to me to see the magnificent antenna field at 
Rockwell-Collins in Iowa augmented with a T2FD so that they could do 
work with their ALE radios. Harris Corp. does the same.


73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Dave Heil" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 8/13/2017 4:03:25 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] B Folded Dipole over an Armory

The U.S. Department of State uses many of these B folded dipoles in 
Africa and other nations with HF transceivers meant to be used by those 
with little or no radio operations experience.  All the user needs do 
is consult a list of places and frequencies (which are all programmed 
into memory), key the microphone and talk.  These antennas weren't made 
to work DX and neither were the transceivers.  Any easy way to make up 
for the inefficiency is to switch on one of the 500 or 1000 matching 
amplifiers, none of which requires manual band switching or tuning up.


Dave K8MN

On 13-Aug-17 19:36, Fred Jensen wrote:
Ummm ... let's be truthful here.  The B folded dipole can be found 
in radio catalogs from the 50's.  We all knew [I was a kid with a new 
license then and even I knew] that the doohicky at the center of the 
top wire was a 400 or so ohm non-inductive resistor, and half the 
power [3 dB] heated it up...

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[Elecraft] KRC2 with K3 and RemoteRig

[Paul Christensen]

I have a need to automatically switch antennas based on the K3's band data.
Is it possible to use the Elecraft KRC2 device with the K3 + RemoteRig?  The
K3's RS232 port is already connected to the RemoteRig RRC unit.  What is
Elecraft's recommendation to accomplish data splitting between all three
units?  

Paul, W9AC 

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 setup

[Chuck Teague via Elecraft]

Thanks for the quick response, gentlemen.  I've got what I need now, and
Dave, thanks for the link to your site with the spreadsheet.  Much
appreciated.

Chuck
NN7U



-
Chuck Teague
NN7U
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Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?

[Phil Kane]

On 8/13/2017 10:28 AM, Ken G Kopp wrote:

> The antenna Jim's is referring to (below) is ... I believe ... better
> known as a "T2FD".  In a case of conning the unknowing B & W ... and
> maybe even themselves ... sold hundreds of them to the Army National
> Guard.  You see them hanging above every armory here in MT.

It's the "standard" Federal agency antenna as well.

I had one at my former house.  It worked far better than what I am
limited to now at a rental apartment - a 30-foot wire fed by an "un-un"
. That was much better than its predecessor there which was no antenna
at all - and the price was right (surplus gift from someone who was
moving away).

I sure miss my R-8 vertical..

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] B Folded Dipole over an Armory

[Dave Heil]

The U.S. Department of State uses many of these B folded dipoles in 
Africa and other nations with HF transceivers meant to be used by those 
with little or no radio operations experience.  All the user needs do is 
consult a list of places and frequencies (which are all programmed into 
memory), key the microphone and talk.  These antennas weren't made to 
work DX and neither were the transceivers.  Any easy way to make up for 
the inefficiency is to switch on one of the 500 or 1000 matching 
amplifiers, none of which requires manual band switching or tuning up.


Dave K8MN

On 13-Aug-17 19:36, Fred Jensen wrote:
Ummm ... let's be truthful here.  The B folded dipole can be found in 
radio catalogs from the 50's.  We all knew [I was a kid with a new 
license then and even I knew] that the doohicky at the center of the top 
wire was a 400 or so ohm non-inductive resistor, and half the power [3 
dB] heated it up...  

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Re: [Elecraft] B Folded Dipole over an Armory

[Ken G Kopp]

Skip's /K6DGW is totally correct 

73!

K0PP

On Sun, Aug 13, 2017 at 1:36 PM, Fred Jensen  wrote:

> Ummm ... let's be truthful here.  The B folded dipole can be found in
> radio catalogs from the 50's.  We all knew [I was a kid with a new license
> then and even I knew] that the doohicky at the center of the top wire was a
> 400 or so ohm non-inductive resistor, and half the power [3 dB] heated it
> up.  There was no subterfuge and B wasn't "conning" anyone, it was very
> clear in the specification sheet.  300 ohms at the feed point, hams often
> fed them with 300 ohm TV twinlead of the day to a balanced link coupled to
> the final tank circuit.  A 4:1 transformer netted 75 ohms which nicely
> matched that twinlead too.
>
> Nor did the Nat'l Guard get conned, they had a specific need for an MF/HF
> antenna that was light, easy for a couple of troops to erect, and very
> broadband ... their operating frequencies are [were] sort of day/night
> separated, rarely if ever harmonically related, and required ranges were in
> the several hundred miles or so miles.  It was a great antenna for a
> specific purpose which is why you see [or saw] them at many military
> installations, some of which were Nat'l Guard Armories.
>
> For 10 months in high school, I worked coastal marine from So California.
> Very large V-Beams on 200 ft towers with two terminating resistors at the
> ends.  Moderately broad patterns into the Pacific, very little off the
> backs [not many ships back there]. 5 KW from the TX, 2.5 KW into the
> resistors, 2.5 KW to all the ships at sea.  Great antenna for the purpose.
>
> As with all things in Engineering, antenna choice is a basket of
> trade-offs.  The Nat'l Guard rarely tries to work DX.  Broadband however
> was near the top of their list.
>
> Incidentally, the "T2FD" [TTFD] acronym arose from the "Tilted Terminated
> Folded Dipole" developed by the US Navy during WW2, designed to have one
> end hoisted on a ship's mast and the other anchored near the deck.  Lowered
> the elevation angle of the main lobe, something important to them.  Hams
> associated it with someone's call which I can't remember at this point.
>
> 73,
>
> Fred ("Skip") K6DGW
> Sparks NV USA
> Washoe County DM09dn
>
> On 8/13/2017 10:28 AM, Ken G Kopp wrote:
>
>> The antenna Jim's is referring to (below) is ... I believe ... better
>> known
>> as
>> a "T2FD".  In a case of conning the unknowing B & W ... and maybe even
>> themselves ... sold hundreds of them to the Army National Guard.  You see
>> them hanging above every armory here in MT.
>>
>>
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[Elecraft] B Folded Dipole over an Armory

[Fred Jensen]

Ummm ... let's be truthful here.  The B folded dipole can be found in 
radio catalogs from the 50's.  We all knew [I was a kid with a new 
license then and even I knew] that the doohicky at the center of the top 
wire was a 400 or so ohm non-inductive resistor, and half the power [3 
dB] heated it up.  There was no subterfuge and B wasn't "conning" 
anyone, it was very clear in the specification sheet.  300 ohms at the 
feed point, hams often fed them with 300 ohm TV twinlead of the day to a 
balanced link coupled to the final tank circuit.  A 4:1 transformer 
netted 75 ohms which nicely matched that twinlead too.


Nor did the Nat'l Guard get conned, they had a specific need for an 
MF/HF antenna that was light, easy for a couple of troops to erect, and 
very broadband ... their operating frequencies are [were] sort of 
day/night separated, rarely if ever harmonically related, and required 
ranges were in the several hundred miles or so miles.  It was a great 
antenna for a specific purpose which is why you see [or saw] them at 
many military installations, some of which were Nat'l Guard Armories.


For 10 months in high school, I worked coastal marine from So 
California.  Very large V-Beams on 200 ft towers with two terminating 
resistors at the ends.  Moderately broad patterns into the Pacific, very 
little off the backs [not many ships back there]. 5 KW from the TX, 2.5 
KW into the resistors, 2.5 KW to all the ships at sea.  Great antenna 
for the purpose.


As with all things in Engineering, antenna choice is a basket of 
trade-offs.  The Nat'l Guard rarely tries to work DX.  Broadband however 
was near the top of their list.


Incidentally, the "T2FD" [TTFD] acronym arose from the "Tilted 
Terminated Folded Dipole" developed by the US Navy during WW2, designed 
to have one end hoisted on a ship's mast and the other anchored near the 
deck.  Lowered the elevation angle of the main lobe, something important 
to them.  Hams associated it with someone's call which I can't remember 
at this point.


73,

Fred ("Skip") K6DGW
Sparks NV USA
Washoe County DM09dn

On 8/13/2017 10:28 AM, Ken G Kopp wrote:

The antenna Jim's is referring to (below) is ... I believe ... better known
as
a "T2FD".  In a case of conning the unknowing B & W ... and maybe even
themselves ... sold hundreds of them to the Army National Guard.  You see
them hanging above every armory here in MT.



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Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?

[Vic Rosenthal]

It's not a "con." It is a trade off that provides wide frequency coverage with 
a simple, sturdy antenna in return for a few dB of loss. Quite reasonable if 
you are the National Guard.

Vic 4X6GP 

> On 13 Aug 2017, at 20:28, Ken G Kopp  wrote:
> 
> The antenna Jim's is referring to (below) is ... I believe ... better known
> as
> a "T2FD".  In a case of conning the unknowing B & W ... and maybe even
> themselves ... sold hundreds of them to the Army National Guard.  You see
> them hanging above every armory here in MT.
> 
> 
>> Yes, but as noted above, not in a good way. :)   There's a folded dipole
>>> antenna made with a big resistor in the middle of it, the effect of which
>>> is to "broadband" it by "swamping" the resonance, AND to burn half of the
>>> transmitter power. In other words, the transmitter puts power into the
>>> antenna, but half of it is wasted in that resistor.
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[Elecraft] KX3 Fred Cady KE7X Book For Sale

[David Gow]

I no longer own a KX3 and have no further need for this very helpful book.
It is $45 on the Elecraft web site.  Mine has been typically used for the
last two years.  It is in very good condition and  includes a printout of
the Errata on KE7X's web site. It in very good condition with no notations,
underlining or highlighting.  There is a coffee stain on the outside of the
back cover lower left corner.  Price is $20 plus shipping to include
packaging and shipping method of your choice.  A USPS Priority medium box
will hold it very comfortably for $12.

Dave
W7VM
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 setup

[Bill Breeden]

Chuck,

With the P3 in "Tracking" mode, you can active the "Center" function 
with the SPAN/CENTER button (third button down the right) and then use 
the knob to move the cursor anywhere you want.  I have several useful 
"Span" widths stored in some of the "FN" buttons so that I don't have to 
leave "Center" mode to change the "Span".  That allows me to quickly 
re-position the cursor after changing the "Span" to accommodate the size 
of a particular pileup.


73,

Bill - NA5DX


On 8/13/2017 11:11 AM, Chuck Teague via Elecraft wrote:

Greetings to the group.

I have been trying to recall how to set up the P3 so that the K3 frequency
is aligned on the left side of the display.  That is very handy for working
dx where the dx signal is on the left side of the display and the pileup is
spread out to the right.  I've searched the archives and the manual but
can't find the answer, although I'm pretty sure it appeared o this forum
some time back.

Can anyone set me straight, please?

Thanks,

Chuck Teague NN7U




-
Chuck Teague
NN7U
--
View this message in context: 
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Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Sometimes convenience is more important than 3 dB of power. That is the case
for many installations, including those T2FDs on National Guard armories. 

After all, EVERY antenna is a compromise of some sort. For example, consider
the unidirectional Rhombic antenna, a staple of major commercial
point-to-point stations since Marconi's day strung among a large field of
telephone poles.

A Rhombic is basically bi-directional with two main lobes 180 degrees apart
in azimuth. But a resistor is added to make it unidirectional by absorbing
half of the transmitter power that would normally be radiated in the "wrong"
direction. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken G Kopp
Sent: Sunday, August 13, 2017 10:28 AM
To: j...@audiosystemsgroup.com
Cc: Elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?

The antenna Jim's is referring to (below) is ... I believe ... better known
as a "T2FD".  In a case of conning the unknowing B & W ... and maybe even
themselves ... sold hundreds of them to the Army National Guard.  You see
them hanging above every armory here in MT.

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Re: [Elecraft] line IN and OUT on new computer

[Phil Kane]

On 8/12/2017 10:12 PM, wb6r...@mac.com wrote:

> Griffin advertises PC compatibility but I've no experience with an
> iMic and a PC but I wouldn't hesitate to try it.

Been using that arrangement for many years (with my K2, of course) with
excellent results.  Just needed a simple mono/stereo in-line adapter for
the mono "fixed audio" output from the add-on board designed by Don
Wilhem (w3fpr).

Those adapters are very common and inexpensive.   My source:
http://www.pchcables.com/57129.html  (I have no financial investment in
that company, just a very satisfied local customer).

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?

[Jim Brown]

On 8/13/2017 10:32 AM, Walter Underwood wrote:

Without the wire on the ground, the chassis is the other terminal, like your 
BC-459 (previous message), but also includes your body when you touch it, which 
changes the impedance of the antenna system.


Yep. But in a vehicle, the VEHICLE'S chassis is the return. That's how 
mobile antennas work. And at home, an end fed wire with no radials uses 
the power system in your house as the counterpoise. While this can work, 
it also puts RF in your house and picks up noise from your house. And 
our body is the return for the antenna of our VHF/UHF talkie.


On 8/13/2017 10:22 AM, Barry wrote:

Jim,
You got it. That is why my first recommendation is for ground 
independent antennas. For portable use, any antenna that can be hung 
by a single support should work nicely so long as it approximates 1/2 
wave on the lowest frequency. 


There's a gotcha there. It's quasi-ground-independent ONLY when there's 
a current minima at the feedpoint, and it isn't easy to make a single 
wire do that on all bands where we want to operate, because some are not 
harmonically related, and because a half wave is pretty long on 80 and 
40M. :)  And when it's an end fed full wave or 3/2 wave, the resulting 
pattern is pretty loby. But it is certainly true that when we CAN rig 
and load an end-fed half-wave, it's a pretty efficient antenna, 
especially if it's vertical.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?

[Jim Brown]

Typo on my part -- I meant to write UNBALANCED. :)

Thanks for catching it!

Jim

On 8/13/2017 10:22 AM, Bill Breeden wrote:

im,

All of the transmitters at my place, a K3, a Yaesu FT817 and FT-920, 
and a Drake T-4XB, have "single ended" (unbalanced) outputs.


73,

Bill - NA5DX


On 8/13/2017 11:52 AM, Jim Brown wrote:

Great advice!

With one exception, every transmitter and receiver I've ever seen has 
had an balanced output 



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Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?

[Walter Underwood]

I should have just said “coupled”.

Without the wire on the ground, the chassis is the other terminal, like your 
BC-459 (previous message), but also includes your body when you touch it, which 
changes the impedance of the antenna system. The wire is important to stabilize 
the impedance. It is also more efficient than having zero radials.

There are more efficient field antennas, but this setup weighs four ounces, 
including the midi-winders from SOTAbeams. Those are about the same size as the 
KX3, so they pack nicely. Last time I was on a summit, I was on the air five 
minutes after choosing a log to sit on.

http://www.sotabeams.co.uk/midi-winders/

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Aug 13, 2017, at 10:10 AM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
> On 8/13/2017 9:09 AM, Walter Underwood wrote:
>> The 16 foot wire on the ground is a radial “system”. One radial is a lot 
>> better than none, but you could use more. The length isn’t especially 
>> important
> 
> Right.
> 
>> because it is capacitively coupled to the ground.
> 
> It's also inductively coupled. BUT -- that's NOT how or why radials work. AND 
> a connection or coupling to earth does NOT make a transmitting antenna work 
> better. That's because the earth is a big resistor, so it burns any power fed 
> into it, whether with a direct connection or by capacitive or inductive 
> coupling. In other words, it WASTES transmitter power.
> 
>> Ground resistance swamps any resonance.
> 
> Yes, but as noted above, not in a good way. :)   There's a folded dipole 
> antenna made with a big resistor in the middle of it, the effect of which is 
> to "broadband" it by "swamping" the resonance, AND to burn half of the 
> transmitter power. In other words, the transmitter puts power into the 
> antenna, but half of it is wasted in that resistor.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?

[Ken G Kopp]

The antenna Jim's is referring to (below) is ... I believe ... better known
as
a "T2FD".  In a case of conning the unknowing B & W ... and maybe even
themselves ... sold hundreds of them to the Army National Guard.  You see
them hanging above every armory here in MT.


> Yes, but as noted above, not in a good way. :)   There's a folded dipole
>> antenna made with a big resistor in the middle of it, the effect of which
>> is to "broadband" it by "swamping" the resonance, AND to burn half of the
>> transmitter power. In other words, the transmitter puts power into the
>> antenna, but half of it is wasted in that resistor.
>>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?

[Barry]

Jim,
You got it. That is why my first recommendation is for ground 
independent antennas. For portable use, any antenna that can be hung by 
a single support should work nicely so long as it approximates 1/2 wave 
on the lowest frequency. An inverted V with it's center up a tree fed in 
the center with ladder line from a small current balun will work nicely, 
and it could even be sloping if the center can't be high enough. I have 
found sloping delta loops work nicely when fed with ladder line and a 
4:1 balun. DO NOT worry about matching. If you are reading this, you 
probably have Elecraft gear. That means you really need a truly awful 
mismatch for your tuner not to be able to deal with it.


73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Jim Brown" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 8/13/2017 1:10:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?


On 8/13/2017 9:09 AM, Walter Underwood wrote:
The 16 foot wire on the ground is a radial “system”. One radial is a 
lot better than none, but you could use more. The length isn’t 
especially important


Right.


because it is capacitively coupled to the ground.


It's also inductively coupled. BUT -- that's NOT how or why radials 
work. AND a connection or coupling to earth does NOT make a 
transmitting antenna work better. That's because the earth is a big 
resistor, so it burns any power fed into it, whether with a direct 
connection or by capacitive or inductive coupling. In other words, it 
WASTES transmitter power.



Ground resistance swamps any resonance.


Yes, but as noted above, not in a good way. :)   There's a folded 
dipole antenna made with a big resistor in the middle of it, the effect 
of which is to "broadband" it by "swamping" the resonance, AND to burn 
half of the transmitter power. In other words, the transmitter puts 
power into the antenna, but half of it is wasted in that resistor.


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?

[Bill Breeden]

Jim,

All of the transmitters at my place, a K3, a Yaesu FT817 and FT-920, and 
a Drake T-4XB, have "single ended" (unbalanced) outputs.


73,

Bill - NA5DX


On 8/13/2017 11:52 AM, Jim Brown wrote:

Great advice!

With one exception, every transmitter and receiver I've ever seen has 
had an balanced output -- that is, a coaxial connector of some sort. 
Current flows in loops -- the center conductor feeds one side of the 
loop, the chassis feeds the other.  The exception was my very first 
transmitter, a military surplus BC-459, which had a single terminal 
fed from the output of an internal matching network. The return for 
output current was the chassis, which was mounted to the chassis of 
the military vehicle or aircraft in which it was used, and the chassis 
of that vehicle or aircraft acted as the other half of the antenna.


The suggestion to use a BNC to female "dual Banana" adapter is a very 
good one. I've used one for exactly this purpose with my K2 and KX3 
when operating portable. It makes a very easy way to connect wire 
antennas.


73, Jim K9YC

On 8/13/2017 5:43 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
Forget about "what you've been told".   Do your own research using 
various publications such as ARRL Antenna Book or other like 
publications.   Personally in the "I've been told" area, it seems 
hams have more incomplete and inaccurate information than correct and 
complete information.


Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone


On Aug 13, 2017, at 7:31 AM, rich hurd WC3T  wrote:

Hi all, particularly Walter (since he mentioned it):

I've been bedeviled by a question with multiple possible answers.

I'm a fan of the idea of using a field antenna as Walter describes 
by using

a BNC - to binding post connector directly to the radio.

I'm leery of that because it flies in the face of what I've been 
told about
these antennas:  I'm assuming the radio BNC connection is unbalanced 
and

the wires form a balanced antenna, more or less.  I've seen deployments
with end-fed 9:1 baluns and without, even documented on YouTube with 
great

successes.

I can tell you that the 9:1 balun setup doesn't seem to be working 
for my
current field deployment but I'd sure like to understand why a balun 
isn't
recommended in this setup.  I'd love to just take the wire and put 
it on my
WonderPole and go for it, but I'd like the understanding first.
Why does

this work?   :)

Thanks.

On Fri, Aug 11, 2017 at 13:19 Walter Underwood 
wrote:

You can get a quick look at band conditions at 
http://bandconditions.com <

http://bandconditions.com/>

Using Buddistick on 40 m is a real challenge. I would not be 
surprised if

that was an S-unit or more below a full-size dipole.

Try the simplest field antenna for the KX3, two wires connected 
directly
to the rig. Get a BNC to double binding post adaptor. Get a wire 26 
to 29
feet long, throw it in a tree and hook one end to the red post. Get 
a 16
foot wire, lay it on the ground and connect it to the black post. 
Let the

ATU tune it and see you can hear.

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)


On Aug 11, 2017, at 9:54 AM, Tommy  wrote:

The band has been really crappy lately. Keep tuning around and 
listening.


73!

Tom - KB2SMS




On 08/11/2017 12:33 PM, Mike Parkes wrote:
Okay I am reaching our to the Elecraft enthusiasts here for some

feedback

if anyone cares to chime in.
I am just getting back on the air after years away from the 
hobby, so I

am

not that familiar with band conditions in general. It looks like the
sunspot cycle is heading for the cellar (if it isn't already there).

Recently bought a KX3 and a Buddistick vertical (like, 2 weeks ago).

Love

the KX3 it is a great radio... however... so far my efforts to hear

much of
anything, much less make a contact with someone, has been 
frustrating to
say the least. I live in an apartment and am surrounded by power 
lines

for
one thing. The background noise level on 40 is pretty bad varies 
but is

s7-9 mostly. I  took my setup to a nearby park and the bands were
definitely quieter. So the local manmade noise level is an issue 
(and

one
reason I chose the KX3 was the hope that its rcvr and filtering 
could

help

with that.)

Have yet to make a single contact, so I am just wondering if I just
happened to choose a really lousy period of solar conditions for 
HF? Or

is

the base loaded vertical a joke?

I would love to be able to find another ham even close by just to 
try

and
get some sort of an HF QSO even if it is with someone down the 
block.
...I can tune down to the AM broadcast band and was able to hear 
some

local

AM stations. :)

Mike AB7RU

(On a side note the tuner in the KX3 is great!. That thing was 
able to

get
a match for 80 meters on the Buddistick which was showing 
something like

25:1 swr. The KX3 tuner clicked and rattled for a while and found a

match
to <2:1. Not sure how much actual RF is going 

Re: [Elecraft] "Contester's Spectral Display" feature of N1MM software will be supported soon

[Clay Autery]

Cool... then if I like it, I'll have to find a way to contribute to the
effort in some way.

__
Clay Autery, KY5G

On 8/13/2017 12:03 PM, Barry wrote:
> Clay,
> Sorry. You can't buy N1MM; they give it away.
>
> 73,
> Barry
> K3NDM
>
> -- Original Message --
> From: "Clay Autery" 
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Sent: 8/13/2017 12:55:57 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] "Contester's Spectral Display" feature of N1MM
> software will be supported soon
>
>> IMHO If you own a K3(s)/KX3/KX2 et al. and you want to do rig
>> control, then you SHOULD purchase Win4K3Suite...
>>
>> No one HAS to...  I did; couldn't be happier.  Of course I also own HRD
>> and others...  I will now likely buy N1MM, too!
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> __
>> Clay Autery, KY5G
>> MONTAC Enterprises
>> (318) 518-1389
>>
>> On 8/13/2017 12:19 AM, John_N1JM wrote:
>>> Does this mean I would have to purchase Win4k3?
>>>
>>> 73, John N1JM
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Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?

[Jim Brown]

On 8/13/2017 9:09 AM, Walter Underwood wrote:

The 16 foot wire on the ground is a radial “system”. One radial is a lot better 
than none, but you could use more. The length isn’t especially important


Right.


because it is capacitively coupled to the ground.


It's also inductively coupled. BUT -- that's NOT how or why radials 
work. AND a connection or coupling to earth does NOT make a transmitting 
antenna work better. That's because the earth is a big resistor, so it 
burns any power fed into it, whether with a direct connection or by 
capacitive or inductive coupling. In other words, it WASTES transmitter 
power.



Ground resistance swamps any resonance.


Yes, but as noted above, not in a good way. :)   There's a folded dipole 
antenna made with a big resistor in the middle of it, the effect of 
which is to "broadband" it by "swamping" the resonance, AND to burn half 
of the transmitter power. In other words, the transmitter puts power 
into the antenna, but half of it is wasted in that resistor.


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] "Contester's Spectral Display" feature of N1MM software will be supported soon

[Barry]

Clay,
Sorry. You can't buy N1MM; they give it away.

73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Clay Autery" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 8/13/2017 12:55:57 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] "Contester's Spectral Display" feature of N1MM 
software will be supported soon



IMHO If you own a K3(s)/KX3/KX2 et al. and you want to do rig
control, then you SHOULD purchase Win4K3Suite...

No one HAS to...  I did; couldn't be happier.  Of course I also own HRD
and others...  I will now likely buy N1MM, too!

73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 8/13/2017 12:19 AM, John_N1JM wrote:

Does this mean I would have to purchase Win4k3?

73, John N1JM



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Contester-s-Spectral-Display-feature-of-N1MM-software-will-be-supported-soon-tp7633292p7633328.html

Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] "Contester's Spectral Display" feature of N1MM software will be supported soon

[Clay Autery]

IMHO If you own a K3(s)/KX3/KX2 et al. and you want to do rig
control, then you SHOULD purchase Win4K3Suite...

No one HAS to...  I did; couldn't be happier.  Of course I also own HRD
and others...  I will now likely buy N1MM, too!

73,

__
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 8/13/2017 12:19 AM, John_N1JM wrote:
> Does this mean I would have to purchase Win4k3?
>
> 73, John N1JM
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Contester-s-Spectral-Display-feature-of-N1MM-software-will-be-supported-soon-tp7633292p7633328.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to k...@montac.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?

[Jim Brown]

Great advice!

With one exception, every transmitter and receiver I've ever seen has 
had an balanced output -- that is, a coaxial connector of some sort. 
Current flows in loops -- the center conductor feeds one side of the 
loop, the chassis feeds the other.  The exception was my very first 
transmitter, a military surplus BC-459, which had a single terminal fed 
from the output of an internal matching network. The return for output 
current was the chassis, which was mounted to the chassis of the 
military vehicle or aircraft in which it was used, and the chassis of 
that vehicle or aircraft acted as the other half of the antenna.


The suggestion to use a BNC to female "dual Banana" adapter is a very 
good one. I've used one for exactly this purpose with my K2 and KX3 when 
operating portable. It makes a very easy way to connect wire antennas.


73, Jim K9YC

On 8/13/2017 5:43 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:

Forget about "what you've been told".   Do your own research using various publications 
such as ARRL Antenna Book or other like publications.   Personally in the "I've been 
told" area, it seems hams have more incomplete and inaccurate information than correct and 
complete information.

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone


On Aug 13, 2017, at 7:31 AM, rich hurd WC3T  wrote:

Hi all, particularly Walter (since he mentioned it):

I've been bedeviled by a question with multiple possible answers.

I'm a fan of the idea of using a field antenna as Walter describes by using
a BNC - to binding post connector directly to the radio.

I'm leery of that because it flies in the face of what I've been told about
these antennas:  I'm assuming the radio BNC connection is unbalanced and
the wires form a balanced antenna, more or less.  I've seen deployments
with end-fed 9:1 baluns and without, even documented on YouTube with great
successes.

I can tell you that the 9:1 balun setup doesn't seem to be working for my
current field deployment but I'd sure like to understand why a balun isn't
recommended in this setup.  I'd love to just take the wire and put it on my
WonderPole and go for it, but I'd like the understanding first.Why does
this work?   :)

Thanks.

On Fri, Aug 11, 2017 at 13:19 Walter Underwood 
wrote:


You can get a quick look at band conditions at http://bandconditions.com <
http://bandconditions.com/>

Using Buddistick on 40 m is a real challenge. I would not be surprised if
that was an S-unit or more below a full-size dipole.

Try the simplest field antenna for the KX3, two wires connected directly
to the rig. Get a BNC to double binding post adaptor. Get a wire 26 to 29
feet long, throw it in a tree and hook one end to the red post. Get a 16
foot wire, lay it on the ground and connect it to the black post. Let the
ATU tune it and see you can hear.

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)


On Aug 11, 2017, at 9:54 AM, Tommy  wrote:

The band has been really crappy lately. Keep tuning around and listening.

73!

Tom - KB2SMS




On 08/11/2017 12:33 PM, Mike Parkes wrote:
Okay I am reaching our to the Elecraft enthusiasts here for some

feedback

if anyone cares to chime in.
I am just getting back on the air after years away from the hobby, so I

am

not that familiar with band conditions in general. It looks like the
sunspot cycle is heading for the cellar (if it isn't already there).

Recently bought a KX3 and a Buddistick vertical (like, 2 weeks ago).

Love

the KX3 it is a great radio... however... so far my efforts to hear

much of

anything, much less make a contact with someone, has been frustrating to
say the least. I live in an apartment and am surrounded by power lines

for

one thing. The background noise level on 40 is pretty bad varies but is
s7-9 mostly. I  took my setup to a nearby park and the bands were
definitely quieter. So the local manmade noise level is an issue (and

one

reason I chose the KX3 was the hope that its rcvr and filtering could

help

with that.)

Have yet to make a single contact, so I am just wondering if I just
happened to choose a really lousy period of solar conditions for HF? Or

is

the base loaded vertical a joke?

I would love to be able to find another ham even close by just to try

and

get some sort of an HF QSO even if it is with someone down the block.
...I can tune down to the AM broadcast band and was able to hear some

local

AM stations. :)

Mike AB7RU

(On a side note the tuner in the KX3 is great!. That thing was able to

get

a match for 80 meters on the Buddistick which was showing something like
25:1 swr. The KX3 tuner clicked and rattled for a while and found a

match

to <2:1. Not sure how much actual RF is going out, probably not much...

but

I was amazed it could tune to that high an SWR.)
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Re: [Elecraft] "Contester's Spectral Display" feature of N1MM software will be supported soon

[Barry]

Steve,
I'm not sure going with what you suggest allows for maximum utility. 
I run SDRplay to drive the main spectrum display with win4k3 and my 
sound card for the N1MM+. By doing this, I can click on signals from 
either display and have my radio move to it. I also run CW Skimmer off 
my sound card and I want to be able put my radio on a signal from that 
display. This all requires port replication and multiple data streams 
to/from the radio. There are good port replicators out there; I use 
com0com. But, there needs to be a way to tie it all together. You have 
two choices from what I have seen, LP Bridge which is a little quirky, 
or win4K3 which seems to run very smoothly. This sets you up for full 
bore station integration with likes of HRD and anything else you pick to 
add to the mix. I think Tom has said that he is adding more ports to 
win4k3 meaning that ultimately anything that can work with a KX3,K3, K3s 
can be added to the mix. The downside to all of this is not have a large 
enough monitor or room for multiple large monitors. :-(


73,
Barry
K3NDM

-- Original Message --
From: "Steve London" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 8/13/2017 11:11:23 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] "Contester's Spectral Display" feature of N1MM 
software will be supported soon


If you are looking for a simpler, no-cost option for using the N1MM+ 
spectrum display with a K3 or K3S, Waterfall Bandmap provides that 
capability, using LP-PAN, SDRPlay, or other SDR receivers that support 
an ExtIO DLL.


Waterfall Bandmap provides a standalone waterfall display, as well as 
forwarding spectrum information to N1MM+ for display by the N1MM+ 
spectrum display.


See:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/waterfallbandmap/info

http://n1mmplus.hamdocs.com/tiki-index.php?page=Spectrum+Display+Window=N1MM+Logger+Documentation

73,
Steve, N2IC
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Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?

[rich hurd WC3T]

"When the antenna is connected directly to the KX3, there is no
transmission line, so there is no need to match the antenna to the
transmission line. It is putting the ATU at the feed point of the antenna."

Ah.  I see now. Light dawns on the Rockies.  :)

Thanks for the clarification!

On Sun, Aug 13, 2017 at 12:09 Walter Underwood 
wrote:

> In July, five SOTA operators put up seven different antennas on a summit
> and compared their performance with WSPR. Six of the antennas were mostly
> within 3 dB of each other. The EARCHI antenna (end-fed with transformer)
> was  between 6 and 15 dB worse than the others. So in one experiment, the
> 9:1 transformer did not help.
>
>
> http://reflector.sota.org.uk/t/seven-sota-antennas-compared-using-wspr-on-a-summit/15635
> <
> http://reflector.sota.org.uk/t/seven-sota-antennas-compared-using-wspr-on-a-summit/15635
> >
>
> When the antenna is connected directly to the KX3, there is no
> transmission line, so there is no need to match the antenna to the
> transmission line. It is putting the ATU at the feed point of the antenna.
>
> The 26-29 foot length is chosen to avoid very high or very low impedances
> in the ham bands down to 40 m Especially, it is not a 1/2 wave on any band.
> That makes it easier to match. If you want to work 80 m, use a 53 foot wire.
>
> The 16 foot wire on the ground is a radial “system”. One radial is a lot
> better than none, but you could use more. The length isn’t especially
> important because it is capacitively coupled to the ground. Ground
> resistance swamps any resonance.
>
> I first heard about this antenna on this list. It was recommended by
> Wayne, N6KR. It is documented on page 9 of the instructions for the KXAT1
> antenna tuner, “...for backpacking use on 40/30/20 meters, a wire length of
> 24-28 feet will generally provide good results. […] Ground system: Use a at
> least one ground radial, cut to at least 1/8th wavelength on the lowest
> band used (16' on 40 meters). When possible, use two or more radials, with
> one cut to 1/4 wavelength on each band."
>
> http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740054%20KXAT1%20man%20rev%20B.pdf <
> http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740054%20KXAT1%20man%20rev%20B.pdf>
>
> There is similar advice on page 10 of the KX2 manual.
>
> http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740282%20KX2%20owner%27s%20man.pdf <
> http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740282%20KX2%20owner's%20man.pdf>
>
> Finally, stop trying to think about “balanced” and “unbalanced” because
> those words are used in bizarre, inconsistent ways. Voltage, whether DC or
> RF, is always between two terminals. With a center-fed dipole, the two
> terminals are the elements. With this setup, the two terminals are the wire
> in the air and the wire on the ground.
>
> wunder
> K6WRU
> Walter Underwood
> CM87wj
> http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)
>
> > On Aug 13, 2017, at 5:31 AM, rich hurd WC3T  wrote:
> >
> > Hi all, particularly Walter (since he mentioned it):
> >
> > I've been bedeviled by a question with multiple possible answers.
> >
> > I'm a fan of the idea of using a field antenna as Walter describes by
> using a BNC - to binding post connector directly to the radio.
> >
> > I'm leery of that because it flies in the face of what I've been told
> about these antennas:  I'm assuming the radio BNC connection is unbalanced
> and the wires form a balanced antenna, more or less.  I've seen deployments
> with end-fed 9:1 baluns and without, even documented on YouTube with great
> successes.
> >
> > I can tell you that the 9:1 balun setup doesn't seem to be working for
> my current field deployment but I'd sure like to understand why a balun
> isn't recommended in this setup.  I'd love to just take the wire and put it
> on my WonderPole and go for it, but I'd like the understanding first.
> Why does this work?   :)
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > On Fri, Aug 11, 2017 at 13:19 Walter Underwood  > wrote:
> > You can get a quick look at band conditions at http://bandconditions.com
>   http://bandconditions.com/>>
> >
> > Using Buddistick on 40 m is a real challenge. I would not be surprised
> if that was an S-unit or more below a full-size dipole.
> >
> > Try the simplest field antenna for the KX3, two wires connected directly
> to the rig. Get a BNC to double binding post adaptor. Get a wire 26 to 29
> feet long, throw it in a tree and hook one end to the red post. Get a 16
> foot wire, lay it on the ground and connect it to the black post. Let the
> ATU tune it and see you can hear.
> >
> > wunder
> > K6WRU
> > Walter Underwood
> > CM87wj
> > http://observer.wunderwood.org/  (my
> blog)
> >
> > > On Aug 11, 2017, at 9:54 AM, Tommy > wrote:
> > >
> > > The band has been really crappy lately. Keep tuning around and
> listening.
> > >
> > > 73!

Re: [Elecraft] P3 setup

[Dave Cole]

Hi Chuck,
Take a look at:

http://nk7z.net/adding-external-keypad-k3/

About halfway down on the page is a link to a spread sheet of macros. 
Click on it to download.  Then take a look at spread sheet line 60, 
macro 39.


It is titled "SPLIT+5", if you fire that macro set off the P3 moves the 
current center frequency shown on the P3, to the left edge of the P3, 
then puts the K3 in split mode, and syncs the two VFOs, in addition to a 
slew other setup functions.


The entire web page is devoted to using a pad to fire off macros, as 
opposed to a keyboard.


I have 64 key Genovation keypad, and I press any single key, and a macro 
set is fired into the K3/P3.  I almost never touch my K3 anymore, just 
fire macros at it via the pad.


73s and thanks,
Dave
NK7Z
http://www.nk7z.net

On 08/13/2017 09:11 AM, Chuck Teague via Elecraft wrote:

Greetings to the group.

I have been trying to recall how to set up the P3 so that the K3 frequency
is aligned on the left side of the display.  That is very handy for working
dx where the dx signal is on the left side of the display and the pileup is
spread out to the right.  I've searched the archives and the manual but
can't find the answer, although I'm pretty sure it appeared o this forum
some time back.

Can anyone set me straight, please?

Thanks,

Chuck Teague NN7U




-
Chuck Teague
NN7U
--
View this message in context: 
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Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?

[Barry]

Fred,
I think you've hit on the real major issues. I always state an 
antennas performance can not be measured by SWR alone, and that there is 
no one perfect antenna. I suggest that these are just a few areas that a 
ham really need to worry/think about; can he make his radio accept the 
load, is his line loss at least close to rational, does he want to work 
local stations meaning out to a few hundred miles, or does he want to go 
for a 5BDXCC. All of the rest of it are just a good discussion topics, 
taken one at a time.


For my part, I run two antennas on my urban lot, a center fed 80 
meter inverted L and a vertical 20 meter center fed dipole. I use the L 
for 80-30 meters and the vertical dipole for all else. I haven't a clue 
what the SWR is, but my built in tuner deals with it nicely. All on my 
feed line are ladder line connected via a Balun Designs current balun. 
I'm serious about finishing my 5BDXCC, and all I need is to finish up on 
80. What I'm saying is I have found it does not take an elaborate 
antenna farm to really reach out and touch someone.


My recommendations are to use a ground independent antenna if you 
can and feed it with the lowest loss line that makes sense for your 
situation. All the rest is seat in the chair time and listen or call CQ.


73,
Barry
K3NDM



-- Original Message --
From: "Fred Moore" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 8/13/2017 10:37:37 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?


There has been a happening in the last 15 or so years.  It seems that
every antenna is "the best we have ever had"  this statement is 
directly

proportional to the number of people who study theory to those who just
read others comments on the internet. Or as some say, the SWR is 1:1 so
its a great antenna.  BTW I love my dummy load for EXACTLY that reason.

I can clearly say that I have had enough different antenna's over the
last 35 years that I know what is a good antenna and one that is not..
plus I even understand most of the theory.  Today a new ham dumps
125-150 bucks in to a 5 dollar pre-manufactured wire antenna, and says,
this is the best antenna around even if he has never used any other
antenna.  See how good it works I even have an S9 noise floor, no other
antenna is this sensitive, when all the wile he is running 30db of
preamp he does not need.

Simply amazes me..  that some think they even have enough education or
experience to even have a meaning full opinion..  but away they go on
eham or qrz about how good something is.  Lucky most on Elecraft don't
all into this category.

We do have many good radio related sites out there, examples are those
who show current band conditions, low power reporting sites to check
your own propagation etc..  those we should learn to use as they are
meaningful but don't assume the to be 100% all of the time,

I remember many years ago when I was elmering a new ham, he built a 15
meter beam, when he decided after one week that the 40/15 dipole I 
built

for him was just not working, I loaned him a HW16, he complained for
weeks that the something was wrong, I went over one Saturday to see 
what

actually was wrong, a spin across the band showed no signals, one CQ
with 50 watts and from Ohio I was the pileup of European stations, I
worked about 5 contacts, looked at him, and said,  "So what is wrong",
he says.. "what knob did you turn when I wasn't looking"  did you ever
call CQ "no says he"  "I think you need to actually use the radio 
before

you decide something is wrong" says I.

If the band propagation sites say the band is dead, and your radio is
not hearing anything, most likely it is not your radio or your antenna.
If you are hearing S9 noise and unhook the antenna and it goes away, I
will make you a bet that your radio is not broken..

And yes all of the switching supplies didn't exist 20 years ago, so we
need to do things we didn't have to do before with toroids and other
things that we didn't do before, there is even some noise sources we
can't fix as others are legally generating it.  Me thinks the days of a
usable -127db noise floor are few and far between, thanks mostly to 
what

our government is allowing to happen...

FWIW/WYP.. regards.. Fred

Fred Moore
email: f...@fmeco.com
wd8...@gmail.com
phone: 321-217-8699

On 8/13/17 8:43 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
Forget about "what you've been told".   Do your own research using 
various publications such as ARRL Antenna Book or other like 
publications.   Personally in the "I've been told" area, it seems hams 
have more incomplete and inaccurate information than correct and 
complete information.


Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone


On Aug 13, 2017, at 7:31 AM, rich hurd WC3T  wrote:

Hi all, particularly Walter (since he mentioned it):

I've been bedeviled by a question with multiple possible answers.

I'm a fan of the idea of using a field antenna as Walter describes by 
using

a BNC - to 

[Elecraft] KX3 Utility SW

[Marty Rosenzweig]

I am able to save and restore configuration files using the latest utility sw 
except that the second config file I saved restores (or doesn't change) only 
the first file. Appears to be restoring correctly, i.e., copies and resets the 
kx3 but doesn't change the configuration. Any ideas? Running XP and there is a 
third config file which I may have created years ago or it's a default file for 
20m which does work correctly.

Marty W0EET 
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[Elecraft] P3 setup

[Chuck Teague via Elecraft]

Greetings to the group.  

I have been trying to recall how to set up the P3 so that the K3 frequency
is aligned on the left side of the display.  That is very handy for working
dx where the dx signal is on the left side of the display and the pileup is
spread out to the right.  I've searched the archives and the manual but
can't find the answer, although I'm pretty sure it appeared o this forum
some time back.

Can anyone set me straight, please?

Thanks,

Chuck Teague NN7U




-
Chuck Teague
NN7U
--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/P3-setup-tp767.html
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Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?

[Walter Underwood]

In July, five SOTA operators put up seven different antennas on a summit and 
compared their performance with WSPR. Six of the antennas were mostly within 3 
dB of each other. The EARCHI antenna (end-fed with transformer) was  between 6 
and 15 dB worse than the others. So in one experiment, the 9:1 transformer did 
not help.

http://reflector.sota.org.uk/t/seven-sota-antennas-compared-using-wspr-on-a-summit/15635
 


When the antenna is connected directly to the KX3, there is no transmission 
line, so there is no need to match the antenna to the transmission line. It is 
putting the ATU at the feed point of the antenna.

The 26-29 foot length is chosen to avoid very high or very low impedances in 
the ham bands down to 40 m Especially, it is not a 1/2 wave on any band. That 
makes it easier to match. If you want to work 80 m, use a 53 foot wire.

The 16 foot wire on the ground is a radial “system”. One radial is a lot better 
than none, but you could use more. The length isn’t especially important 
because it is capacitively coupled to the ground. Ground resistance swamps any 
resonance.

I first heard about this antenna on this list. It was recommended by Wayne, 
N6KR. It is documented on page 9 of the instructions for the KXAT1 antenna 
tuner, “...for backpacking use on 40/30/20 meters, a wire length of 24-28 feet 
will generally provide good results. […] Ground system: Use a at least one 
ground radial, cut to at least 1/8th wavelength on the lowest band used (16' on 
40 meters). When possible, use two or more radials, with one cut to 1/4 
wavelength on each band."

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740054%20KXAT1%20man%20rev%20B.pdf 


There is similar advice on page 10 of the KX2 manual.

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740282%20KX2%20owner%27s%20man.pdf 


Finally, stop trying to think about “balanced” and “unbalanced” because those 
words are used in bizarre, inconsistent ways. Voltage, whether DC or RF, is 
always between two terminals. With a center-fed dipole, the two terminals are 
the elements. With this setup, the two terminals are the wire in the air and 
the wire on the ground.

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Aug 13, 2017, at 5:31 AM, rich hurd WC3T  wrote:
> 
> Hi all, particularly Walter (since he mentioned it):
> 
> I've been bedeviled by a question with multiple possible answers. 
> 
> I'm a fan of the idea of using a field antenna as Walter describes by using a 
> BNC - to binding post connector directly to the radio.  
> 
> I'm leery of that because it flies in the face of what I've been told about 
> these antennas:  I'm assuming the radio BNC connection is unbalanced and the 
> wires form a balanced antenna, more or less.  I've seen deployments with 
> end-fed 9:1 baluns and without, even documented on YouTube with great 
> successes. 
> 
> I can tell you that the 9:1 balun setup doesn't seem to be working for my 
> current field deployment but I'd sure like to understand why a balun isn't 
> recommended in this setup.  I'd love to just take the wire and put it on my 
> WonderPole and go for it, but I'd like the understanding first.Why does 
> this work?   :)
> 
> Thanks. 
> 
> On Fri, Aug 11, 2017 at 13:19 Walter Underwood  > wrote:
> You can get a quick look at band conditions at http://bandconditions.com 
>   >
> 
> Using Buddistick on 40 m is a real challenge. I would not be surprised if 
> that was an S-unit or more below a full-size dipole.
> 
> Try the simplest field antenna for the KX3, two wires connected directly to 
> the rig. Get a BNC to double binding post adaptor. Get a wire 26 to 29 feet 
> long, throw it in a tree and hook one end to the red post. Get a 16 foot 
> wire, lay it on the ground and connect it to the black post. Let the ATU tune 
> it and see you can hear.
> 
> wunder
> K6WRU
> Walter Underwood
> CM87wj
> http://observer.wunderwood.org/  (my blog)
> 
> > On Aug 11, 2017, at 9:54 AM, Tommy  > > wrote:
> >
> > The band has been really crappy lately. Keep tuning around and listening.
> >
> > 73!
> >
> > Tom - KB2SMS
> >
> >
> >
> > On 08/11/2017 12:33 PM, Mike Parkes wrote:
> >> Okay I am reaching our to the Elecraft enthusiasts here for some feedback
> >> if anyone cares to chime in.
> >> I am just getting back on the air after years away from the hobby, so I am
> >> not that familiar with band conditions in general. It looks like the
> >> sunspot cycle is heading for the cellar (if it isn't already there).
> >>
> >> Recently bought a KX3 and a 

Re: [Elecraft] "Contester's Spectral Display" feature of N1MM software will be supported soon

[Steve London]

If you are looking for a simpler, no-cost option for using the N1MM+ 
spectrum display with a K3 or K3S, Waterfall Bandmap provides that 
capability, using LP-PAN, SDRPlay, or other SDR receivers that support 
an ExtIO DLL.


Waterfall Bandmap provides a standalone waterfall display, as well as 
forwarding spectrum information to N1MM+ for display by the N1MM+ 
spectrum display.


See:
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/waterfallbandmap/info

http://n1mmplus.hamdocs.com/tiki-index.php?page=Spectrum+Display+Window=N1MM+Logger+Documentation

73,
Steve, N2IC
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Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?

[Fred Moore]

There has been a happening in the last 15 or so years.  It seems that
every antenna is "the best we have ever had"  this statement is directly
proportional to the number of people who study theory to those who just
read others comments on the internet. Or as some say, the SWR is 1:1 so
its a great antenna.  BTW I love my dummy load for EXACTLY that reason.

I can clearly say that I have had enough different antenna's over the
last 35 years that I know what is a good antenna and one that is not.. 
plus I even understand most of the theory.  Today a new ham dumps
125-150 bucks in to a 5 dollar pre-manufactured wire antenna, and says,
this is the best antenna around even if he has never used any other
antenna.  See how good it works I even have an S9 noise floor, no other
antenna is this sensitive, when all the wile he is running 30db of
preamp he does not need.

Simply amazes me..  that some think they even have enough education or
experience to even have a meaning full opinion..  but away they go on
eham or qrz about how good something is.  Lucky most on Elecraft don't
all into this category.

We do have many good radio related sites out there, examples are those
who show current band conditions, low power reporting sites to check
your own propagation etc..  those we should learn to use as they are
meaningful but don't assume the to be 100% all of the time, 

I remember many years ago when I was elmering a new ham, he built a 15
meter beam, when he decided after one week that the 40/15 dipole I built
for him was just not working, I loaned him a HW16, he complained for
weeks that the something was wrong, I went over one Saturday to see what
actually was wrong, a spin across the band showed no signals, one CQ
with 50 watts and from Ohio I was the pileup of European stations, I
worked about 5 contacts, looked at him, and said,  "So what is wrong",
he says.. "what knob did you turn when I wasn't looking"  did you ever
call CQ "no says he"  "I think you need to actually use the radio before
you decide something is wrong" says I. 

If the band propagation sites say the band is dead, and your radio is
not hearing anything, most likely it is not your radio or your antenna. 
If you are hearing S9 noise and unhook the antenna and it goes away, I
will make you a bet that your radio is not broken.. 

And yes all of the switching supplies didn't exist 20 years ago, so we
need to do things we didn't have to do before with toroids and other
things that we didn't do before, there is even some noise sources we
can't fix as others are legally generating it.  Me thinks the days of a
usable -127db noise floor are few and far between, thanks mostly to what
our government is allowing to happen...   

FWIW/WYP.. regards.. Fred

Fred Moore
email: f...@fmeco.com
   wd8...@gmail.com
phone: 321-217-8699

On 8/13/17 8:43 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
> Forget about "what you've been told".   Do your own research using various 
> publications such as ARRL Antenna Book or other like publications.   
> Personally in the "I've been told" area, it seems hams have more incomplete 
> and inaccurate information than correct and complete information. 
>
> Bob, K4TAX
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Aug 13, 2017, at 7:31 AM, rich hurd WC3T  wrote:
>>
>> Hi all, particularly Walter (since he mentioned it):
>>
>> I've been bedeviled by a question with multiple possible answers.
>>
>> I'm a fan of the idea of using a field antenna as Walter describes by using
>> a BNC - to binding post connector directly to the radio.
>>
>> I'm leery of that because it flies in the face of what I've been told about
>> these antennas:  I'm assuming the radio BNC connection is unbalanced and
>> the wires form a balanced antenna, more or less.  I've seen deployments
>> with end-fed 9:1 baluns and without, even documented on YouTube with great
>> successes.
>>
>> I can tell you that the 9:1 balun setup doesn't seem to be working for my
>> current field deployment but I'd sure like to understand why a balun isn't
>> recommended in this setup.  I'd love to just take the wire and put it on my
>> WonderPole and go for it, but I'd like the understanding first.Why does
>> this work?   :)
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> On Fri, Aug 11, 2017 at 13:19 Walter Underwood 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> You can get a quick look at band conditions at http://bandconditions.com <
>>> http://bandconditions.com/>
>>>
>>> Using Buddistick on 40 m is a real challenge. I would not be surprised if
>>> that was an S-unit or more below a full-size dipole.
>>>
>>> Try the simplest field antenna for the KX3, two wires connected directly
>>> to the rig. Get a BNC to double binding post adaptor. Get a wire 26 to 29
>>> feet long, throw it in a tree and hook one end to the red post. Get a 16
>>> foot wire, lay it on the ground and connect it to the black post. Let the
>>> ATU tune it and see you can hear.
>>>
>>> wunder
>>> K6WRU
>>> Walter Underwood
>>> CM87wj
>>> 

Re: [Elecraft] K8RA P4 Key to K3S?

[MaverickNH]

Thanks for the advice all!
Bret/N4SRN



--
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Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?

[rich hurd WC3T]

Good point; thanks.

On Sun, Aug 13, 2017 at 08:43 Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:

> Forget about "what you've been told".   Do your own research using various
> publications such as ARRL Antenna Book or other like publications.
>  Personally in the "I've been told" area, it seems hams have more
> incomplete and inaccurate information than correct and complete information.
>
> Bob, K4TAX
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Aug 13, 2017, at 7:31 AM, rich hurd WC3T  wrote:
> >
> > Hi all, particularly Walter (since he mentioned it):
> >
> > I've been bedeviled by a question with multiple possible answers.
> >
> > I'm a fan of the idea of using a field antenna as Walter describes by
> using
> > a BNC - to binding post connector directly to the radio.
> >
> > I'm leery of that because it flies in the face of what I've been told
> about
> > these antennas:  I'm assuming the radio BNC connection is unbalanced and
> > the wires form a balanced antenna, more or less.  I've seen deployments
> > with end-fed 9:1 baluns and without, even documented on YouTube with
> great
> > successes.
> >
> > I can tell you that the 9:1 balun setup doesn't seem to be working for my
> > current field deployment but I'd sure like to understand why a balun
> isn't
> > recommended in this setup.  I'd love to just take the wire and put it on
> my
> > WonderPole and go for it, but I'd like the understanding first.Why
> does
> > this work?   :)
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > On Fri, Aug 11, 2017 at 13:19 Walter Underwood 
> > wrote:
> >
> >> You can get a quick look at band conditions at
> http://bandconditions.com <
> >> http://bandconditions.com/>
> >>
> >> Using Buddistick on 40 m is a real challenge. I would not be surprised
> if
> >> that was an S-unit or more below a full-size dipole.
> >>
> >> Try the simplest field antenna for the KX3, two wires connected directly
> >> to the rig. Get a BNC to double binding post adaptor. Get a wire 26 to
> 29
> >> feet long, throw it in a tree and hook one end to the red post. Get a 16
> >> foot wire, lay it on the ground and connect it to the black post. Let
> the
> >> ATU tune it and see you can hear.
> >>
> >> wunder
> >> K6WRU
> >> Walter Underwood
> >> CM87wj
> >> http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)
> >>
> >>> On Aug 11, 2017, at 9:54 AM, Tommy  wrote:
> >>>
> >>> The band has been really crappy lately. Keep tuning around and
> listening.
> >>>
> >>> 73!
> >>>
> >>> Tom - KB2SMS
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
>  On 08/11/2017 12:33 PM, Mike Parkes wrote:
>  Okay I am reaching our to the Elecraft enthusiasts here for some
> >> feedback
>  if anyone cares to chime in.
>  I am just getting back on the air after years away from the hobby, so
> I
> >> am
>  not that familiar with band conditions in general. It looks like the
>  sunspot cycle is heading for the cellar (if it isn't already there).
> 
>  Recently bought a KX3 and a Buddistick vertical (like, 2 weeks ago).
> >> Love
>  the KX3 it is a great radio... however... so far my efforts to hear
> >> much of
>  anything, much less make a contact with someone, has been frustrating
> to
>  say the least. I live in an apartment and am surrounded by power lines
> >> for
>  one thing. The background noise level on 40 is pretty bad varies but
> is
>  s7-9 mostly. I  took my setup to a nearby park and the bands were
>  definitely quieter. So the local manmade noise level is an issue (and
> >> one
>  reason I chose the KX3 was the hope that its rcvr and filtering could
> >> help
>  with that.)
> 
>  Have yet to make a single contact, so I am just wondering if I just
>  happened to choose a really lousy period of solar conditions for HF?
> Or
> >> is
>  the base loaded vertical a joke?
> 
>  I would love to be able to find another ham even close by just to try
> >> and
>  get some sort of an HF QSO even if it is with someone down the block.
>  ...I can tune down to the AM broadcast band and was able to hear some
> >> local
>  AM stations. :)
> 
>  Mike AB7RU
> 
>  (On a side note the tuner in the KX3 is great!. That thing was able to
> >> get
>  a match for 80 meters on the Buddistick which was showing something
> like
>  25:1 swr. The KX3 tuner clicked and rattled for a while and found a
> >> match
>  to <2:1. Not sure how much actual RF is going out, probably not
> much...
> >> but
>  I was amazed it could tune to that high an SWR.)
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> 
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>  Message delivered to tomm...@hvc.rr.com
> 

Re: [Elecraft] "Contester's Spectral Display" feature of N1MM software will be supported soon

[Richard Ferch]

No, you don't have to purchase Win4k3, but with a K3 or KX2 you will need
some additional hardware.

I have been using the N1MM+ spectrum display for several weeks with my K3.
The software interface I use is N2IC's Waterfall Bandmap program (<
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/waterfallbandmap/info>).

You do need external hardware with a K3 or K3S, regardless of which
software you use. I have used Waterfall Bandmap and the N1MM+ spectrum
display with three different hardware configurations: an SDR (SDRPlay RSP1
or RSP2) fed from the K3's RX ant in/out connections; the same SDR fed from
the K3's IF Out; and an LP-PAN plus dedicated sound card, fed from the K3's
IF Out. All of these require the KXV3 to be installed in the K3 (it's
already built in to the K3S).

My understanding is that Win4k3 supports the same configurations and adds
the P3/P3SVGA to the list of hardware it supports. Waterfall Bandmap does
not support the P3/P3SVGA.

Win4k3 also supports the KX3 without external hardware other than a sound
card, and the KX2 or KX3 with an SDRPlay plus an external transmit/receive
switch. I believe Waterfall Bandmap should support these two configurations
as well, but I don't know whether either of them has been tested.

Win4k3 also has many other features, and it may well be worth the purchase
price to you for those features alone - but it is not mandatory in order to
use the spectrum display in N1MM+.

73,
Rich VE3KI





N1JM wrote:

Does this mean I would have to purchase Win4k3?

73, John N1JM
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Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Forget about "what you've been told".   Do your own research using various 
publications such as ARRL Antenna Book or other like publications.   Personally 
in the "I've been told" area, it seems hams have more incomplete and inaccurate 
information than correct and complete information. 

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 13, 2017, at 7:31 AM, rich hurd WC3T  wrote:
> 
> Hi all, particularly Walter (since he mentioned it):
> 
> I've been bedeviled by a question with multiple possible answers.
> 
> I'm a fan of the idea of using a field antenna as Walter describes by using
> a BNC - to binding post connector directly to the radio.
> 
> I'm leery of that because it flies in the face of what I've been told about
> these antennas:  I'm assuming the radio BNC connection is unbalanced and
> the wires form a balanced antenna, more or less.  I've seen deployments
> with end-fed 9:1 baluns and without, even documented on YouTube with great
> successes.
> 
> I can tell you that the 9:1 balun setup doesn't seem to be working for my
> current field deployment but I'd sure like to understand why a balun isn't
> recommended in this setup.  I'd love to just take the wire and put it on my
> WonderPole and go for it, but I'd like the understanding first.Why does
> this work?   :)
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> On Fri, Aug 11, 2017 at 13:19 Walter Underwood 
> wrote:
> 
>> You can get a quick look at band conditions at http://bandconditions.com <
>> http://bandconditions.com/>
>> 
>> Using Buddistick on 40 m is a real challenge. I would not be surprised if
>> that was an S-unit or more below a full-size dipole.
>> 
>> Try the simplest field antenna for the KX3, two wires connected directly
>> to the rig. Get a BNC to double binding post adaptor. Get a wire 26 to 29
>> feet long, throw it in a tree and hook one end to the red post. Get a 16
>> foot wire, lay it on the ground and connect it to the black post. Let the
>> ATU tune it and see you can hear.
>> 
>> wunder
>> K6WRU
>> Walter Underwood
>> CM87wj
>> http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)
>> 
>>> On Aug 11, 2017, at 9:54 AM, Tommy  wrote:
>>> 
>>> The band has been really crappy lately. Keep tuning around and listening.
>>> 
>>> 73!
>>> 
>>> Tom - KB2SMS
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
 On 08/11/2017 12:33 PM, Mike Parkes wrote:
 Okay I am reaching our to the Elecraft enthusiasts here for some
>> feedback
 if anyone cares to chime in.
 I am just getting back on the air after years away from the hobby, so I
>> am
 not that familiar with band conditions in general. It looks like the
 sunspot cycle is heading for the cellar (if it isn't already there).
 
 Recently bought a KX3 and a Buddistick vertical (like, 2 weeks ago).
>> Love
 the KX3 it is a great radio... however... so far my efforts to hear
>> much of
 anything, much less make a contact with someone, has been frustrating to
 say the least. I live in an apartment and am surrounded by power lines
>> for
 one thing. The background noise level on 40 is pretty bad varies but is
 s7-9 mostly. I  took my setup to a nearby park and the bands were
 definitely quieter. So the local manmade noise level is an issue (and
>> one
 reason I chose the KX3 was the hope that its rcvr and filtering could
>> help
 with that.)
 
 Have yet to make a single contact, so I am just wondering if I just
 happened to choose a really lousy period of solar conditions for HF? Or
>> is
 the base loaded vertical a joke?
 
 I would love to be able to find another ham even close by just to try
>> and
 get some sort of an HF QSO even if it is with someone down the block.
 ...I can tune down to the AM broadcast band and was able to hear some
>> local
 AM stations. :)
 
 Mike AB7RU
 
 (On a side note the tuner in the KX3 is great!. That thing was able to
>> get
 a match for 80 meters on the Buddistick which was showing something like
 25:1 swr. The KX3 tuner clicked and rattled for a while and found a
>> match
 to <2:1. Not sure how much actual RF is going out, probably not much...
>> but
 I was amazed it could tune to that high an SWR.)
 __
 Elecraft mailing list
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>>> 
>>> __
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>>> 
>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>>> Please help support this email list: 

Re: [Elecraft] K3: Frequency Stability of radio

[Mike Harris]

A pity an overview of the answers wasn't shared.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO

On 12/08/2017 22:08, Dave Cole wrote:
I'll respond to my post to keep things short...  Thank you to both 
posters for the info.  You answered my questions.


73s and thanks,
Dave
NK7Z
http://www.nk7z.net

On 08/12/2017 04:00 PM, Dave Cole wrote:

Hi,

I use a program called SBSpectrum to graph very subtle changes in 
Doppler of the Ionosphere, while using WWV as a standard.  The changes 
are on the order of only a few Hz at most.


I have noted the K3 makes frequency corrections every few minutes in 
discrete steps.  These steps are too large for what I want.


If I add an external frequency standard, like a GPSDO, will the K3 
still display these steps in frequency correction, or will the K3 
simply lock to the external signal source and not move in frequency?


I asked this once before about a year ago, and got an answer, but I 
have forgotten that answer...  Sorry for the repeat question.

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Re: [Elecraft] Is it my KX3/antenna or is it lousy band condx?

[rich hurd WC3T]

Hi all, particularly Walter (since he mentioned it):

I've been bedeviled by a question with multiple possible answers.

I'm a fan of the idea of using a field antenna as Walter describes by using
a BNC - to binding post connector directly to the radio.

I'm leery of that because it flies in the face of what I've been told about
these antennas:  I'm assuming the radio BNC connection is unbalanced and
the wires form a balanced antenna, more or less.  I've seen deployments
with end-fed 9:1 baluns and without, even documented on YouTube with great
successes.

I can tell you that the 9:1 balun setup doesn't seem to be working for my
current field deployment but I'd sure like to understand why a balun isn't
recommended in this setup.  I'd love to just take the wire and put it on my
WonderPole and go for it, but I'd like the understanding first.Why does
this work?   :)

Thanks.

On Fri, Aug 11, 2017 at 13:19 Walter Underwood 
wrote:

> You can get a quick look at band conditions at http://bandconditions.com <
> http://bandconditions.com/>
>
> Using Buddistick on 40 m is a real challenge. I would not be surprised if
> that was an S-unit or more below a full-size dipole.
>
> Try the simplest field antenna for the KX3, two wires connected directly
> to the rig. Get a BNC to double binding post adaptor. Get a wire 26 to 29
> feet long, throw it in a tree and hook one end to the red post. Get a 16
> foot wire, lay it on the ground and connect it to the black post. Let the
> ATU tune it and see you can hear.
>
> wunder
> K6WRU
> Walter Underwood
> CM87wj
> http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)
>
> > On Aug 11, 2017, at 9:54 AM, Tommy  wrote:
> >
> > The band has been really crappy lately. Keep tuning around and listening.
> >
> > 73!
> >
> > Tom - KB2SMS
> >
> >
> >
> > On 08/11/2017 12:33 PM, Mike Parkes wrote:
> >> Okay I am reaching our to the Elecraft enthusiasts here for some
> feedback
> >> if anyone cares to chime in.
> >> I am just getting back on the air after years away from the hobby, so I
> am
> >> not that familiar with band conditions in general. It looks like the
> >> sunspot cycle is heading for the cellar (if it isn't already there).
> >>
> >> Recently bought a KX3 and a Buddistick vertical (like, 2 weeks ago).
> Love
> >> the KX3 it is a great radio... however... so far my efforts to hear
> much of
> >> anything, much less make a contact with someone, has been frustrating to
> >> say the least. I live in an apartment and am surrounded by power lines
> for
> >> one thing. The background noise level on 40 is pretty bad varies but is
> >> s7-9 mostly. I  took my setup to a nearby park and the bands were
> >> definitely quieter. So the local manmade noise level is an issue (and
> one
> >> reason I chose the KX3 was the hope that its rcvr and filtering could
> help
> >> with that.)
> >>
> >> Have yet to make a single contact, so I am just wondering if I just
> >> happened to choose a really lousy period of solar conditions for HF? Or
> is
> >> the base loaded vertical a joke?
> >>
> >> I would love to be able to find another ham even close by just to try
> and
> >> get some sort of an HF QSO even if it is with someone down the block.
> >> ...I can tune down to the AM broadcast band and was able to hear some
> local
> >> AM stations. :)
> >>
> >> Mike AB7RU
> >>
> >> (On a side note the tuner in the KX3 is great!. That thing was able to
> get
> >> a match for 80 meters on the Buddistick which was showing something like
> >> 25:1 swr. The KX3 tuner clicked and rattled for a while and found a
> match
> >> to <2:1. Not sure how much actual RF is going out, probably not much...
> but
> >> I was amazed it could tune to that high an SWR.)
> >> __
> >> Elecraft mailing list
> >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >>
> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> >> Message delivered to tomm...@hvc.rr.com
> >>
> >
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
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> > Message delivered to wun...@wunderwood.org
>
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>
-- 
73 (or 72 for the QRP folks),
Rich