[Elecraft] K2 KUSB PROBLEM
I thought I was clear but perhaps not--the KUSB does not work with the proper cable I built as per Elecraft instructions but the Keyspan adapter does. I am not trying to connect my K2 to my XP laptop using an RS-232 cable. Has anyone been successful connecting a K2 using a KUSB? 73 Eric WD6DBM Sent from my iPhone __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] BNC Connectors
Buy a crimp tool and use crimp connectors. Two types of crimp connectors are available, single crimp and double crimp. Single crimp uses a solder-in center pin and crimp shield and the double crimp version crimps both the center pin and the braid. I have a slight preference for double crimp, but either are acceptable. For connectors and crimp tools, you might look at The RF Connection in Gaitherburg MD. It's owned by a ham, and I've found them good to deal with. http://www.therfc.com/ is their web site. Jack K8ZOA On 1/28/2010 1:35 AM, Brett Howard wrote: I've done a good portion of building a K2, and completely built a K1... But amazingly enough I've never solder terminated a coax link... I guess I've always preferred the look of professionally terminated cabling. But now I need a few simple short patch cables. In the shack I have a decent amount 60+ foot or so of RG58/U and then around 120 foot or so of RG58/AU... Pretty much seems about to be the same stuff with one stranded center and the other solid center conductor. I feel for HF use this coax should be ample for a few 18 patches... Anyone disagree? I may end up using these for VHF as well but doubtful I'd do much of anything over 150Mhz. I'm not married to using the cordage that I have on hand but it would be nice to be able to use that stuff If there is something that would fit better feel free to advise. (I've always been a fan of RG-8x for HAM use and I use RG-217 or better at work always but like I said I'm not terminating those myself...) I've attempted to do this with PL-259 connectors before and was unsuccessful (but I tried to use a less than optimal soldering iron and it took too long to get things hot and I ended up with a short in the end). I've now bought an adequate dual temp weller gun and should have better success. So I guess for the next real question where would one recommend to get PL-259 and BNC connectors for this job. Should I go for solder on or crimp on? I'm more than willing to spend the money for a good crimp tool if need be and its a better option. Anyway I'm open to recommendations as to where one should procure the connectors as well as any tips, tricks, and opinions on what I should use (so long as the opinions come with explanations). ;) Thanks kindly gentlemen. ~Brett (KC7OTG) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] BNC Connectors
So I guess for the next real question where would one recommend to get PL-259 and BNC connectors for this job. I'm with Jack on the use of double-crimp connectors for an inside installations. I tend to use soldered connectors outdoors although with the right sealant (e.g., Scotchkote) together with heat-shrink tubing, I imagine that crimped connectors can also hold up to weather extremes. RF Industries is my primary supplier of crimped connectors, mostly purchased through Tessco. http://www.tessco.com/ If you set up an on-line commercial account with them, typical small quantity pricing is very reasonable. I've attempted to do this with PL-259 connectors before and was unsuccessful (but I tried to use a less than optimal soldering iron and I rarely recommend alternative installation methods to that provided by a manufacturer, but if you attempt to use soldered PL-259s with a UG reducer, this method sets the standard in my opinion: http://www.w5fc.org/files/how-to/PL259.PDF It's not a novel idea, but there are several benefits to the use of this method. The primary benefit is that the quality of the braided portion of the installation can be inspected prior to insertion into the PL-259 body. The method recommended by Amphenol over the past several decades leaves the user with no true way of knowing about the quality of the job. You hope that the job was completed correctly and that no further damage occurs after filling in the four circular PL-259 openings with solder. A multimeter can be used to detect for obvious shorts, but ragged-edge problems can go undetected. When using silver-plated UG reducers and a vise, it's possible to complete a PL-259 connector in under two minutes. I use a Weller soldering station set to 750-degrees F and with silver-plated PL-259 bodies and UG reducers, there's ample heat for the job and there's no fight to work the flow of solder. At the conclusion, you'll have confidence that the job was completed accurately. When I first tried this method, I honestly could not stop making jumper cables. What I had painfully tried to do for the past 35 years instantly became a pleasant experience. In a half hour, must have made close to a dozen cables using RG-400. The installation goes very fast when placing the coax vertically in a vise. The reducer goes on next and you have a perfect platform to complete the soldering of the braid on to the edge of the reducer. Paul, W9AC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] BNC Connectors
Bret, Look at the cost of small quantities of decent BNC connectors. Then look at the price of prefab cables. You'll find that buying prefab stuff is cheaper. Add in the cost of a crimper tool and prefab's are the way to go. The break even point is probably several hundred. 73 de Brian/K3KO P.S. I generally hate buying prefab cables because hams should make their own cables in my opinion. However hams are alwayS out to save money so $$ rule the roost. What galls me is the $20 to $50 price tag on prefab cables for rigs to anything. Invest in a soldering iron, perhaps a $3 set of binocular vision goggles, some solder and do it your self. Brett Howard wrote: I've done a good portion of building a K2, and completely built a K1... But amazingly enough I've never solder terminated a coax link... I guess I've always preferred the look of professionally terminated cabling. But now I need a few simple short patch cables. In the shack I have a decent amount 60+ foot or so of RG58/U and then around 120 foot or so of RG58/AU... Pretty much seems about to be the same stuff with one stranded center and the other solid center conductor. I feel for HF use this coax should be ample for a few 18 patches... Anyone disagree? I may end up using these for VHF as well but doubtful I'd do much of anything over 150Mhz. I'm not married to using the cordage that I have on hand but it would be nice to be able to use that stuff If there is something that would fit better feel free to advise. (I've always been a fan of RG-8x for HAM use and I use RG-217 or better at work always but like I said I'm not terminating those myself...) I've attempted to do this with PL-259 connectors before and was unsuccessful (but I tried to use a less than optimal soldering iron and it took too long to get things hot and I ended up with a short in the end). I've now bought an adequate dual temp weller gun and should have better success. So I guess for the next real question where would one recommend to get PL-259 and BNC connectors for this job. Should I go for solder on or crimp on? I'm more than willing to spend the money for a good crimp tool if need be and its a better option. Anyway I'm open to recommendations as to where one should procure the connectors as well as any tips, tricks, and opinions on what I should use (so long as the opinions come with explanations). ;) Thanks kindly gentlemen. ~Brett (KC7OTG) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Radios and the TSA
People, Two years ago I flew from JFK to Dublin with an Icom 7400 in my checked suitcase and there was absolutely no issue in either JFK or Dublin. I have even flown back to Ireland from JFK with a chainsaw in my luggage and there was no problem. In this latter case I told them at check in that there was a chain saw which was completely dry in the suitcase. I know TSA inspected the bag with the chainsaw as the ty-wraps I use to seal the bag were cut but nothing was disturbed inside the bag or these people were very careful. The bags with the undeclared (to TSA) radios were never opened. Perhaps it is a bit more problematic with carry on luggage which seems to be what Brett is referring to. As to theft I have taken other radios, tools and goodies many many times on this route and never had any difficulty; knock on wood. 73 Doug EI2CN -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Brett Howard Sent: 28 January 2010 06:15 To: Ken Kopp Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Radios and the TSA I just got back from a send an engineer to appease a loud customer by sending an engineer trip... Now if you ever want a guy why looked like he was doing something weird it was me!!! I took two bags. A barely qualifies for carry on sized suit case with a single change of clothing and an Agilent MSO6104 oscilloscope in it. Then a bag full of all my spare cables and random electronics parts and a laptop. About the only thing that was going for me was that I had a round trip ticket and I was only staying at my final destination for about 5 hours. Ended up being a 2.5 day period with no sleep so I'm sure I looked a bit haggard going through security too but I was given little resistance. The worst thing was that someone asked if I had a computer in the suitcase. I said no its an oscilloscope. I could see them say... (a what?). They then said we're going to have to open it up and take a look. I said certainly let me help you with that. They then backed it up and looked at it in the X-Ray again and decided they didn't really need to look inside and they let me go on my merry way. TSA is actually pretty darned reasonable from my experience. ~Brett (KC7OTG) On Thu, 2010-01-28 at 04:55 +, Ken Kopp wrote: One of Rose's customers who's just returned from an overseas trip commented that the TSA folks showed little interest in his K3, and that this may have been due to it being hand-carried in an obviously made-for-the radio brand-labeled carry case. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP elecraftcov...@rfwave.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 KUSB PROBLEM
Eric, You have run into a situation where the USB/serial adapter does not like to work at lower baud rates. I know it is counter-intuitive, but it seems to be true. Use your Keyspan adapter with the K2 because you have found it to work. 73, Don W3FPR Eric wrote: I thought I was clear but perhaps not--the KUSB does not work with the proper cable I built as per Elecraft instructions but the Keyspan adapter does. I am not trying to connect my K2 to my XP laptop using an RS-232 cable. Has anyone been successful connecting a K2 using a KUSB? 73 Eric WD6DBM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 KUSB PROBLEM
Eric, I am using the KUSB with my K2 and N1MM Logger. I plugged the K2's serial cable into the end of the the KUSB adapter. I am running at 4800 bps, no parity, 8 data bits and no stop bits. -- 73 -- Brian -- K1LI On Thu, Jan 28, 2010 at 8:39 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Eric, You have run into a situation where the USB/serial adapter does not like to work at lower baud rates. I know it is counter-intuitive, but it seems to be true. Use your Keyspan adapter with the K2 because you have found it to work. 73, Don W3FPR Eric wrote: I thought I was clear but perhaps not--the KUSB does not work with the proper cable I built as per Elecraft instructions but the Keyspan adapter does. I am not trying to connect my K2 to my XP laptop using an RS-232 cable. Has anyone been successful connecting a K2 using a KUSB? 73 Eric WD6DBM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] BNC Connectors
Hi all, I have made a coax connector tutorial and have it on my server at: http://tinyurl.com/ydhoeyr I also have an Anderson Powerpole connector tutorial at: http://tinyurl.com/y9knmrr Both have lots of info and photos. 72, Steve, W2MY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 parts question
Hi all, Ok, I've called the parts inventory good, except two parts for the RF board that I couldn't quite figure out and made a guess that they were right. But not sure: C33 - this part is listed as a 2.2pf cap which should have a label 2R2 or 2 according to the parts list. I could only find a small disk cap with what looked like 2.2 on it, not 2R2 or 2. Is that the correct part? C22 - the Value column just has pf), the description says it should be labelled 2R7, 3, 3.3, or 3R3. In the end I could only find a small blue cap with 2.7 on it leftover and assumed this was C22. Is this right? The schematic shows a 3.3pf cap here... What say ye folks? Thanks es 73, LS -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K2-parts-question-tp4473226p4473226.html Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] BNC Connectors
Further comments to Paul's post. Crimp connectors (double crimp preferred) are a whole lot easier, more reliable and faster to do - but stick with brand name connectors and the proper crimp tool. I've used Amphenol for many years (easily available in Toronto) but I'm sure there are others as well. I've also been using the method outlined in W5FC's document for years without any problems - just one further comment. Once you have soldered the cable braid to the end of the adapter / reducer, trimmed the insulation on the center conductor and screwed it onto the PL-259 housing you only need to solder the center conductor. If you tighten the reducer onto the PL-259 housing with vice grips it will not come apart and there is no need to solder the adapter to the housing or try to fill the four circular holes with solder. One other comment re BNC connectors - if you use a single crimp connector and need to solder the center conductor (use cable with a stranded center conducor) use a small temp controlled soldering iron for the job. It's not a job for a soldering gun! 73, Doug VE3MV email d_jo...@sympatico.ca - Original Message - From: Paul Christensen w...@arrl.net To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, January 28, 2010 6:38 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] BNC Connectors So I guess for the next real question where would one recommend to get PL-259 and BNC connectors for this job. I'm with Jack on the use of double-crimp connectors for an inside installations. I tend to use soldered connectors outdoors although with the right sealant (e.g., Scotchkote) together with heat-shrink tubing, I imagine that crimped connectors can also hold up to weather extremes. RF Industries is my primary supplier of crimped connectors, mostly purchased through Tessco. http://www.tessco.com/ If you set up an on-line commercial account with them, typical small quantity pricing is very reasonable. I've attempted to do this with PL-259 connectors before and was unsuccessful (but I tried to use a less than optimal soldering iron and I rarely recommend alternative installation methods to that provided by a manufacturer, but if you attempt to use soldered PL-259s with a UG reducer, this method sets the standard in my opinion: http://www.w5fc.org/files/how-to/PL259.PDF It's not a novel idea, but there are several benefits to the use of this method. The primary benefit is that the quality of the braided portion of the installation can be inspected prior to insertion into the PL-259 body. The method recommended by Amphenol over the past several decades leaves the user with no true way of knowing about the quality of the job. You hope that the job was completed correctly and that no further damage occurs after filling in the four circular PL-259 openings with solder. A multimeter can be used to detect for obvious shorts, but ragged-edge problems can go undetected. When using silver-plated UG reducers and a vise, it's possible to complete a PL-259 connector in under two minutes. I use a Weller soldering station set to 750-degrees F and with silver-plated PL-259 bodies and UG reducers, there's ample heat for the job and there's no fight to work the flow of solder. At the conclusion, you'll have confidence that the job was completed accurately. When I first tried this method, I honestly could not stop making jumper cables. What I had painfully tried to do for the past 35 years instantly became a pleasant experience. In a half hour, must have made close to a dozen cables using RG-400. The installation goes very fast when placing the coax vertically in a vise. The reducer goes on next and you have a perfect platform to complete the soldering of the braid on to the edge of the reducer. Paul, W9AC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] BNC Connectors
There are prefab cables and then again there are prefab cables. A few years ago, I was given a couple of boxes of BNC jumper cables, new, intended for computer to network jumpers. RG-58 size cable, molded on boots. After several of these proved less than reliable, I cut several apart. The cable is built like audio cables, thin foil shield and a small amount of wire shield. The connectors were off-size and did not always fit a MIL-spec BNC female connector. And one of the reasons the cables failed was the shell came apart. On the other hand, I have some military surplus BNC jumper cables that are excellent, made with double shielded cable, silver plated BNCs, etc. A ratcheting crimp tool and a set of commonly used jaws from RF Parts will run well over $100, but a similar quality tool from The RF Connection is less than half that. I have ratcheting tools from both sources and can't see much difference in quality. If you only need one tool, the RF Connection version is about $35, with jaws. When it comes to connectors, a similar option is available. You can get cheap Chinese crimp BNC connectors for about a buck each. You can also get (Amphenol RX series) a higher quality connector, made in either Mexico or China, for a bit more money, or you can go full up on a silver plated MIL-spec style connector. Jack K8ZOA On 1/28/2010 8:23 AM, Brian Alsop wrote: Bret, Look at the cost of small quantities of decent BNC connectors. Then look at the price of prefab cables. You'll find that buying prefab stuff is cheaper. Add in the cost of a crimper tool and prefab's are the way to go. The break even point is probably several hundred. 73 de Brian/K3KO P.S. I generally hate buying prefab cables because hams should make their own cables in my opinion. However hams are alwayS out to save money so $$ rule the roost. What galls me is the $20 to $50 price tag on prefab cables for rigs to anything. Invest in a soldering iron, perhaps a $3 set of binocular vision goggles, some solder and do it your self. Brett Howard wrote: I've done a good portion of building a K2, and completely built a K1... But amazingly enough I've never solder terminated a coax link... I guess I've always preferred the look of professionally terminated cabling. But now I need a few simple short patch cables. In the shack I have a decent amount 60+ foot or so of RG58/U and then around 120 foot or so of RG58/AU... Pretty much seems about to be the same stuff with one stranded center and the other solid center conductor. I feel for HF use this coax should be ample for a few 18 patches... Anyone disagree? I may end up using these for VHF as well but doubtful I'd do much of anything over 150Mhz. I'm not married to using the cordage that I have on hand but it would be nice to be able to use that stuff If there is something that would fit better feel free to advise. (I've always been a fan of RG-8x for HAM use and I use RG-217 or better at work always but like I said I'm not terminating those myself...) I've attempted to do this with PL-259 connectors before and was unsuccessful (but I tried to use a less than optimal soldering iron and it took too long to get things hot and I ended up with a short in the end). I've now bought an adequate dual temp weller gun and should have better success. So I guess for the next real question where would one recommend to get PL-259 and BNC connectors for this job. Should I go for solder on or crimp on? I'm more than willing to spend the money for a good crimp tool if need be and its a better option. Anyway I'm open to recommendations as to where one should procure the connectors as well as any tips, tricks, and opinions on what I should use (so long as the opinions come with explanations). ;) Thanks kindly gentlemen. ~Brett (KC7OTG) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] BNC Connectors
That should be RFX series, not RX series. It identifies Amphenol's commercial grade line. Jack On 1/28/2010 8:51 AM, Jack Smith wrote: There are prefab cables and then again there are prefab cables. A few years ago, I was given a couple of boxes of BNC jumper cables, new, intended for computer to network jumpers. RG-58 size cable, molded on boots. After several of these proved less than reliable, I cut several apart. The cable is built like audio cables, thin foil shield and a small amount of wire shield. The connectors were off-size and did not always fit a MIL-spec BNC female connector. And one of the reasons the cables failed was the shell came apart. On the other hand, I have some military surplus BNC jumper cables that are excellent, made with double shielded cable, silver plated BNCs, etc. A ratcheting crimp tool and a set of commonly used jaws from RF Parts will run well over $100, but a similar quality tool from The RF Connection is less than half that. I have ratcheting tools from both sources and can't see much difference in quality. If you only need one tool, the RF Connection version is about $35, with jaws. When it comes to connectors, a similar option is available. You can get cheap Chinese crimp BNC connectors for about a buck each. You can also get (Amphenol RX series) a higher quality connector, made in either Mexico or China, for a bit more money, or you can go full up on a silver plated MIL-spec style connector. Jack K8ZOA On 1/28/2010 8:23 AM, Brian Alsop wrote: Bret, Look at the cost of small quantities of decent BNC connectors. Then look at the price of prefab cables. You'll find that buying prefab stuff is cheaper. Add in the cost of a crimper tool and prefab's are the way to go. The break even point is probably several hundred. 73 de Brian/K3KO P.S. I generally hate buying prefab cables because hams should make their own cables in my opinion. However hams are alwayS out to save money so $$ rule the roost. What galls me is the $20 to $50 price tag on prefab cables for rigs to anything. Invest in a soldering iron, perhaps a $3 set of binocular vision goggles, some solder and do it your self. Brett Howard wrote: I've done a good portion of building a K2, and completely built a K1... But amazingly enough I've never solder terminated a coax link... I guess I've always preferred the look of professionally terminated cabling. But now I need a few simple short patch cables. In the shack I have a decent amount 60+ foot or so of RG58/U and then around 120 foot or so of RG58/AU... Pretty much seems about to be the same stuff with one stranded center and the other solid center conductor. I feel for HF use this coax should be ample for a few 18 patches... Anyone disagree? I may end up using these for VHF as well but doubtful I'd do much of anything over 150Mhz. I'm not married to using the cordage that I have on hand but it would be nice to be able to use that stuff If there is something that would fit better feel free to advise. (I've always been a fan of RG-8x for HAM use and I use RG-217 or better at work always but like I said I'm not terminating those myself...) I've attempted to do this with PL-259 connectors before and was unsuccessful (but I tried to use a less than optimal soldering iron and it took too long to get things hot and I ended up with a short in the end). I've now bought an adequate dual temp weller gun and should have better success. So I guess for the next real question where would one recommend to get PL-259 and BNC connectors for this job. Should I go for solder on or crimp on? I'm more than willing to spend the money for a good crimp tool if need be and its a better option. Anyway I'm open to recommendations as to where one should procure the connectors as well as any tips, tricks, and opinions on what I should use (so long as the opinions come with explanations). ;) Thanks kindly gentlemen. ~Brett (KC7OTG) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help
Re: [Elecraft] K2 parts question
LS, Small capacitors are marked in several ways it may have the actual value expressed as a decimal, such as 2.2 or there may be an R in place of the decimal point, such as 2R2. It is all the same. How they are marked depends on the manufacturer, and is subject to change from time to time. C33 can be 2 pF, 2.2 pF (also marked with 2R2 - same thing) C22 can be 2.7 pF, 3 pF or 3.3 pF - the decimal point may be replaced with an R in any of these. It seems you have the correct capacitors located. 73, Don W3FPR lstavenhagen wrote: Hi all, Ok, I've called the parts inventory good, except two parts for the RF board that I couldn't quite figure out and made a guess that they were right. But not sure: C33 - this part is listed as a 2.2pf cap which should have a label 2R2 or 2 according to the parts list. I could only find a small disk cap with what looked like 2.2 on it, not 2R2 or 2. Is that the correct part? C22 - the Value column just has pf), the description says it should be labelled 2R7, 3, 3.3, or 3R3. In the end I could only find a small blue cap with 2.7 on it leftover and assumed this was C22. Is this right? The schematic shows a 3.3pf cap here... What say ye folks? Thanks es 73, LS No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.733 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2651 - Release Date: 01/28/10 02:36:00 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 parts question
Ok, thanks Don and everyone who's responded. Even tho it's taken two days to do the inventory, it's been a highly educational 2 days which I consider an integral part of the whole educational experience I'm intending to have doing the kit. That's probably reason #1 I've decided to do the Elecraft, right behind #2 which is to end up with a really good CW rig ;). So I'm glad I've done it. Tho I think I will skip the Misc. bag inventory, since with a 100% completion rate so far that's probably a safe bet ;) Looks like I'll be able to start the build this evening, so i'm sure to post more questions as I go along. PS, looking at the boards and components I'm sure glad I got the suggested 1/32 tips for my iron as well as the .02 solder wow, those are some tiny parts! But I'm having fun already! 73, LS W5QD -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K2-parts-question-tp4473226p4473641.html Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] BNC Connectors
Good pdf on APP's - I've been using them a long time and everything I have 12v is APP if possible. Even going to use them for other stuff - control lines etc. 73 de M0XDF, K3 #174 -- The trees that are slow to grow bear the best fruit. -Moliere, actor and playwright (1622-1673) On 28 Jan 2010, at 13:47, Steven Pituch wrote: Hi all, I have made a coax connector tutorial and have it on my server at: http://tinyurl.com/ydhoeyr I also have an Anderson Powerpole connector tutorial at: http://tinyurl.com/y9knmrr Both have lots of info and photos. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Errors after switching on the K3
Hi, I just turned on the K3 and the sub VFO display showed ERR AT3. Tapping DISP a few times showed also ERR PA1, ERR BP3, BP4, and then the VFO B frequency. About 2 weeks ago a similar sequence of errors was displayed: ERR BP1, LPF, IO3, IF1, XV3, BP2, AT3, PA1. Has someone else experienced the same startup messages? Turning off and on made the problem disappear. Steef PA2A K3 # 1184 fw 3.68 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 on the way
This is a test to see if I can get on the reflector. I am sure the K3 will be easier to operate. :) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] BNC Connectors
Ok I think I'm going to go both routes... I used a house I've used for work before onlinecables.com and I've ordered 3 cables. 2 cables at 72 with a male BNC and a PL259 using RG223/U and one cable using 72 of RG223 with male BNC's on both ends. (I could have ordered the BNC to BNC cable from someone else cheaper (as its a standard cable) but since onlinecables.com adds $30 to orders under $100 I figured I'd just add it all onto them. I figure I can use these cables as a gold standard and see if I can get close to them. The BNC to PL259 cable was $43.84 each and the BNC to BNC cable was $40.04. I've seen the Pomona prefab cables (using the same RG223/U for around 30 to 32 dollars but like I said I had to get over $100 bucks to not spend an extra $30 charge). Ok now that being said I think tonight (and this weekend) I'm going to start researching what connectors and crimp tools I want to buy. I noticed that not many speak of the crimp on PL259's so perhaps I'll stay away from those... When I build my cables I'll probably not use the double shielded RG223 stuff so it won't be a fair comparison but I'll take the patch cables and see what difference I can see on a network analyzer... I can take a look up to about 26Ghz so I'm sure at some point in time there will be a major difference between my cables and those build by the pros! I appreciate all of the references gentlemen and I ensure you I'll read every word of the material put in front of me... For now I need to get my butt into work and get the materials printed out for my design review... Its my day in the barrel today. But I'm fairly confident about this design so I don't think I'll be raked over the coals too terribly bad! ;) Again thanks for your input gentlemen you're all very helpful elmers! ~Brett (KC7OTG) On Thu, 2010-01-28 at 13:23 +, Brian Alsop wrote: Bret, Look at the cost of small quantities of decent BNC connectors. Then look at the price of prefab cables. You'll find that buying prefab stuff is cheaper. Add in the cost of a crimper tool and prefab's are the way to go. The break even point is probably several hundred. 73 de Brian/K3KO P.S. I generally hate buying prefab cables because hams should make their own cables in my opinion. However hams are alwayS out to save money so $$ rule the roost. What galls me is the $20 to $50 price tag on prefab cables for rigs to anything. Invest in a soldering iron, perhaps a $3 set of binocular vision goggles, some solder and do it your self. Brett Howard wrote: I've done a good portion of building a K2, and completely built a K1... But amazingly enough I've never solder terminated a coax link... I guess I've always preferred the look of professionally terminated cabling. But now I need a few simple short patch cables. In the shack I have a decent amount 60+ foot or so of RG58/U and then around 120 foot or so of RG58/AU... Pretty much seems about to be the same stuff with one stranded center and the other solid center conductor. I feel for HF use this coax should be ample for a few 18 patches... Anyone disagree? I may end up using these for VHF as well but doubtful I'd do much of anything over 150Mhz. I'm not married to using the cordage that I have on hand but it would be nice to be able to use that stuff If there is something that would fit better feel free to advise. (I've always been a fan of RG-8x for HAM use and I use RG-217 or better at work always but like I said I'm not terminating those myself...) I've attempted to do this with PL-259 connectors before and was unsuccessful (but I tried to use a less than optimal soldering iron and it took too long to get things hot and I ended up with a short in the end). I've now bought an adequate dual temp weller gun and should have better success. So I guess for the next real question where would one recommend to get PL-259 and BNC connectors for this job. Should I go for solder on or crimp on? I'm more than willing to spend the money for a good crimp tool if need be and its a better option. Anyway I'm open to recommendations as to where one should procure the connectors as well as any tips, tricks, and opinions on what I should use (so long as the opinions come with explanations). ;) Thanks kindly gentlemen. ~Brett (KC7OTG) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by:
Re: [Elecraft] BNC Connectors
Paul Christensen wrote: I rarely recommend alternative installation methods to that provided by a manufacturer, but if you attempt to use soldered PL-259s with a UG reducer, this method sets the standard in my opinion: http://www.w5fc.org/files/how-to/PL259.PDF I have to agree that this is a life-changing improvement in making cables! I've been doing it this way for years with no problems. An advantage which Paul didn't mention is that it's easy to remove the connector and re-use it. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] BNC Connectors
I don't use many PL259 connectors these days, but when I do, it is a double crimp version, silver plated from RF Industries if I recall correctly. Those install like a charm in a matter of a minute or less. (I also have a special tool that strips the jacket, braid and center conductor to the correct length, all at one time.) Be careful with RG-223 connectors - RG-223 looks like it's the same diameter as RG-58, but it's not. RG-58 has an OD of 0.195 inches and RG-223 is 0.212 inches and the crimp connector ferrule sized for RG58 will either be an incredibly tight fit over the RG223 jacket or it won't fit at all. (Don't ask me how I know this.) Jack On 1/28/2010 11:28 AM, Brett Howard wrote: Ok I think I'm going to go both routes... I used a house I've used for work before onlinecables.com and I've ordered 3 cables. 2 cables at 72 with a male BNC and a PL259 using RG223/U and one cable using 72 of RG223 with male BNC's on both ends. (I could have ordered the BNC to BNC cable from someone else cheaper (as its a standard cable) but since onlinecables.com adds $30 to orders under $100 I figured I'd just add it all onto them. I figure I can use these cables as a gold standard and see if I can get close to them. The BNC to PL259 cable was $43.84 each and the BNC to BNC cable was $40.04. I've seen the Pomona prefab cables (using the same RG223/U for around 30 to 32 dollars but like I said I had to get over $100 bucks to not spend an extra $30 charge). Ok now that being said I think tonight (and this weekend) I'm going to start researching what connectors and crimp tools I want to buy. I noticed that not many speak of the crimp on PL259's so perhaps I'll stay away from those... When I build my cables I'll probably not use the double shielded RG223 stuff so it won't be a fair comparison but I'll take the patch cables and see what difference I can see on a network analyzer... I can take a look up to about 26Ghz so I'm sure at some point in time there will be a major difference between my cables and those build by the pros! I appreciate all of the references gentlemen and I ensure you I'll read every word of the material put in front of me... For now I need to get my butt into work and get the materials printed out for my design review... Its my day in the barrel today. But I'm fairly confident about this design so I don't think I'll be raked over the coals too terribly bad! ;) Again thanks for your input gentlemen you're all very helpful elmers! ~Brett (KC7OTG) On Thu, 2010-01-28 at 13:23 +, Brian Alsop wrote: Bret, Look at the cost of small quantities of decent BNC connectors. Then look at the price of prefab cables. You'll find that buying prefab stuff is cheaper. Add in the cost of a crimper tool and prefab's are the way to go. The break even point is probably several hundred. 73 de Brian/K3KO P.S. I generally hate buying prefab cables because hams should make their own cables in my opinion. However hams are alwayS out to save money so $$ rule the roost. What galls me is the $20 to $50 price tag on prefab cables for rigs to anything. Invest in a soldering iron, perhaps a $3 set of binocular vision goggles, some solder and do it your self. Brett Howard wrote: I've done a good portion of building a K2, and completely built a K1... But amazingly enough I've never solder terminated a coax link... I guess I've always preferred the look of professionally terminated cabling. But now I need a few simple short patch cables. In the shack I have a decent amount 60+ foot or so of RG58/U and then around 120 foot or so of RG58/AU... Pretty much seems about to be the same stuff with one stranded center and the other solid center conductor. I feel for HF use this coax should be ample for a few 18 patches... Anyone disagree? I may end up using these for VHF as well but doubtful I'd do much of anything over 150Mhz. I'm not married to using the cordage that I have on hand but it would be nice to be able to use that stuff If there is something that would fit better feel free to advise. (I've always been a fan of RG-8x for HAM use and I use RG-217 or better at work always but like I said I'm not terminating those myself...) I've attempted to do this with PL-259 connectors before and was unsuccessful (but I tried to use a less than optimal soldering iron and it took too long to get things hot and I ended up with a short in the end). I've now bought an adequate dual temp weller gun and should have better success. So I guess for the next real question where would one recommend to get PL-259 and BNC connectors for this job. Should I go for solder on or crimp on? I'm more than willing to spend the money for a good crimp tool if need be and its a better option. Anyway I'm open to recommendations as to where one should procure the connectors as well as any tips, tricks, and opinions on what I should
Re: [Elecraft] OT: Radios and the TSA
I carry-on two K3's to ham shows and talks as in an over the shoulder bag made by Rose's Covers. (It's actually two independent K3 carry bags that Velcro together and share the same shoulder strap rings. ) I fly a lot each year and I have never had any problem with the TSA security inspection. They do ask that the radios be taken out of the bags for scanning, just like laptop computers. If you put them through the scanner inside the carry bags, about 70% of the time they then have to take them out of the bag and re-scan them - adding more time to the process. They occasionally will also swab them and do a spectral check for explosives. Most of the time they are just curious about ham radio and are very friendly. The less apprehensive you are the better they treat you. :-) My other rule is -always- show up 30 minutes earlier than you think you need to. I plan to arrive at the airport parking lot 2 hrs before the flight. Its much more relaxing not to rush. Plus I get time to catch up on email! ;-) 73, Eric WA6HHQ On Thu, 2010-01-28 at 04:55 +, Ken Kopp wrote: One of Rose's customers who's just returned from an overseas trip commented that the TSA folks showed little interest in his K3, and that this may have been due to it being hand-carried in an obviously made-for-the radio brand-labeled carry case. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP elecraftcov...@rfwave.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] BNC Connectors
(I also have a special tool that strips the jacket, braid and center conductor to the correct length, all at one time.) The coax tooling/prep manufacturers don't do a very good job of matching up their products with coax types. Here's a breakdown of the stripping tools I use for crimp connectors. RG-8/RG-213, etc.: Paladin Tools Model #1256 RG-400, RG-58, RG-59, RG-8X: Paladin Tools # 1255 RG-174, RG-316: Paladin Tools #1258. Each can be configured for 2 or 3 level stripping (default as shipped is 3-level for most crimp connectors). For the actual crimping action, I recently purchased this set with the most used changeable dies for about USD $100: http://tinyurl.com/yf6ozje Paul, W9AC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 on the way
It worked. Now the fun begins when the big brown truck arrives on Monday. -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-on-the-way-tp4474256p4474458.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] OT: PL-259 / UG reducer application
Thanks Vic for posting this URL. Many will find it helpful. I'm a career (retired) two-way radio tech and have used this method for decades. In fact, I thought I discovered it! (:-)) In the two-way business we installed and removed many hundreds of mobile antennas, usually reusing the antenna and cables on the new vehicle, so this method was helpful in saving time and money. I use a pair of small slip-joint pliers to snug the two together .. NOT wrench-tight. - Original Message - From: Vic K2VCO To: Paul Christensen Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, 28 January, 2010 16:44 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] BNC Connectors Paul Christensen wrote: I rarely recommend alternative installation methods to that provided by a manufacturer, but if you attempt to use soldered PL-259s with a UG-175/U reducer, this method sets the standard in my opinion: http://www.w5fc.org/files/how-to/PL259.PDF I have to agree that this is a life-changing improvement in making cables! I've been doing it this way for years with no problems. An advantage which Paul didn't mention is that it's easy to remove the connector and re-use it. -- 73, Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] BNC Connectors
alsopb wrote: Look at the cost of small quantities of decent BNC connectors. Then look at the price of prefab cables. You'll find that buying prefab stuff is cheaper. Add in the cost of a crimper tool and prefab's are the way to go. The break even point is probably several hundred. There's a lot to be said for the convenience of being able to make cables exactly the length you want, when you want them. I like the RG-8 Mini cable which is slightly thicker than RG-58, and I bought a batch of crimp connectors for it. But unlike the RG-58 crimp connectors they didn't come with a sleeve to crimp the braid to the connector. They are all one piece (except for the center pin that you solder on as normal) and from the look of them you are expected to crimp the back of the plug on to the bared cable itself, which I wouldn't have thought would give a reliable connection. Consequently I haven't tried to use them. Has anyone come across connectors like this and knows what you are supposed to do with them? - Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392 K3 #222. * G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com * KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html * KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/BNC-Connectors-tp4471688p4474597.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 KUSB PROBLEM
Brian Machesney wrote: I am using the KUSB with my K2 and N1MM Logger. I plugged the K2's serial cable into the end of the the KUSB adapter. I am running at 4800 bps, no parity, 8 data bits and no stop bits. Interesting, Brian. I have always suspected that there is some other factor besides the chipset that can make the difference between success and failure with a USB adapter. Perhaps the chipset of the USB controller, or what other devices are connected to and using the same USB hub as the serial adapter. You would not think that anything so essentially simple as low speed (by current standards) serial communications could cause so many headaches. However last night I downloaded W6CQZ's new JT65-HF software and spent about two hours trying to get it to key my K3 to transmit, before discovering it would only work when connected to a real serial port. Not the virtual serial port emulator and not LP-Bridge either. I know that isn't the same as a USB adapter, except that is also a virtual serial port. It seems that anything that is not a real serial port can throw a spanner in the works if Murphy has a mind to. Partly as a result of sluggishness running the JT65 software, I ordered today a new PC for the shack. And since it doesn't come with an RS-232 port I ordered at the same time a two-port PCI RS-232 card. It cost just over £20 and I will now be able control two separate radios without needing to resort to any of these troublesome USB adapters. (I also made sure the PC I ordered came with a Windows XP downgrade. I *know* everything I want to use works under XP, but I've seen plenty of reports of problems with Vista and 7. This won't be an option for much longer - another reason for getting a new PC now rather than later.) - Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392 K3 #222. * G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com * KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html * KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K2-KUSB-PROBLEM-tp4472555p4474540.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 on the way
You just don't know how much fun it is! 73, Mike NF4L Bob - W0GI wrote: It worked. Now the fun begins when the big brown truck arrives on Monday. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 on the way
I remember waiting (Christmas through New Years, my K3 arrived on January 4th). And, although I was a bit apprehensive about putting together such an expensive kit, I did thoroughly enjoy doing that and look forward to the next kit. The K3 experience just gets better each day especially when you discover new things that it can do that you never knew about. Have fun... 73, phil, K7PEH K3 #3799 On Jan 28, 2010, at 9:41 AM, Mike wrote: You just don't know how much fun it is! 73, Mike NF4L Bob - W0GI wrote: It worked. Now the fun begins when the big brown truck arrives on Monday. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 on the way
I am pretty excited. It has been a few months now since I decided I wanted one. The wife required selling stuff to pay for it. Selling a couple Ten-Tec HF rigs, two other receivers, and a bunch of other gear that was sitting around got the job done. I don't have a ham museum anymore, but trading all that stuff for a K3 is well worth it. I will keep the Mark-V for now, but it could go too. I ordered this to get started, but will be adding a Inrad 1500Hz filter and LP-PAN. K3/100 K3 100W Xcvr. (Modular Kit) KAT3K3 ATU (Modular Kit) KFL3A-250K3 250 Hz, 8 pole filter KTCXO3-1 K3 TCXO (1ppm) KXV3A K3 RX Ant, IF Out Xvrtr Int If it arrives Monday, I hope to get it on the air by Wed. evening. Going through the manual, I am amazed what the little box will do. With the LP-PAN and PowerSDR-IF, this will be a great setup. I had an IC-756Pro for a while and did like the bandscope, but personaly didn't like it much as a CW radio. Now I'll be in hog heaven. -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K3-on-the-way-tp4474256p4475147.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] BNC Connectors
On Wed, 27 Jan 2010 22:35:35 -0800, Brett Howard br...@livecomputers.com wrote: Using the Times Microwave Attenuation and Power Handling Calculator Downloadable from: http://www.timesmicrowave.com/cable_calculators/, I found that RG58 standard coax has .15dB attenuation at a length of 1.5 feet. If one were using this as a jumper between a Transverter or Rig and an Amplifier the loss would be acceptable, but not as a hook up from the amp to a feedthrough connector in the wall or something like that. The power handling capability of an eighteen inch piece like that is only 130 watts. Tom, N5GE n...@n5ge.com K3 #806 with SUB RX, K3 #1055, PR6, XV144, XV432, KRC2, W1, 2 W2's and other small kits 1 K144XV on order http://www.n5ge.com http://www.swotrc.net I've done a good portion of building a K2, and completely built a K1... But amazingly enough I've never solder terminated a coax link... I guess I've always preferred the look of professionally terminated cabling. But now I need a few simple short patch cables. In the shack I have a decent amount 60+ foot or so of RG58/U and then around 120 foot or so of RG58/AU... Pretty much seems about to be the same stuff with one stranded center and the other solid center conductor. I feel for HF use this coax should be ample for a few 18 patches... Anyone disagree? I may end up using these for VHF as well but doubtful I'd do much of anything over 150Mhz. I'm not married to using the cordage that I have on hand but it would be nice to be able to use that stuff If there is something that would fit better feel free to advise. (I've always been a fan of RG-8x for HAM use and I use RG-217 or better at work always but like I said I'm not terminating those myself...) I've attempted to do this with PL-259 connectors before and was unsuccessful (but I tried to use a less than optimal soldering iron and it took too long to get things hot and I ended up with a short in the end). I've now bought an adequate dual temp weller gun and should have better success. So I guess for the next real question where would one recommend to get PL-259 and BNC connectors for this job. Should I go for solder on or crimp on? I'm more than willing to spend the money for a good crimp tool if need be and its a better option. Anyway I'm open to recommendations as to where one should procure the connectors as well as any tips, tricks, and opinions on what I should use (so long as the opinions come with explanations). ;) Thanks kindly gentlemen. ~Brett (KC7OTG) [snip] __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] BNC Connectors
On Thu, 28 Jan 2010 12:40:43 -0600, Radio Amateur N5GE n...@n5ge.com wrote: Oops! The calculation Frequency was 432MHz... Tom, N5GE n...@n5ge.com K3 #806 with SUB RX, K3 #1055, PR6, XV144, XV432, KRC2, W1, 2 W2's and other small kits 1 K144XV on order http://www.n5ge.com http://www.swotrc.net On Wed, 27 Jan 2010 22:35:35 -0800, Brett Howard br...@livecomputers.com wrote: Using the Times Microwave Attenuation and Power Handling Calculator Downloadable from: http://www.timesmicrowave.com/cable_calculators/, I found that RG58 standard coax has .15dB attenuation at a length of 1.5 feet. If one were using this as a jumper between a Transverter or Rig and an Amplifier the loss would be acceptable, but not as a hook up from the amp to a feedthrough connector in the wall or something like that. The power handling capability of an eighteen inch piece like that is only 130 watts. Tom, N5GE [snip] __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Errors after switching on the K3
Steef, This has been a long term issue for me on my K3 #145 eg see. http://n2.nabble.com/K3-Error-Message-ERR-AT3-tt4043437.html#a4044226 When it happens the errors just seem random though mostly it disables the ATU and ANT1/2. Otherwise everything's normal so I normally ignore it for a while and then power cycle again which usually fixes it. I find if I power cycle immediately it doesn't go away most of the time. Weird isn't it?? 73, Stewart, GW0ETF -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Errors-after-switching-on-the-K3-tp4473709p4475430.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Two-Radio Audio Switch Box
A similar 2R Audio Switch Box is described at: www.qsl.net/w5asp/ under the title Two Receiver Audio Selection. I came up with this box many years ago, and have used it regularly ever since. The Rat Shack switch box currently available is somewhat different, but will work. The nice thing is that all the interconnecting cables and adapters are available from Rat Shack ... not a drop of solder is needed ! Joe, W5ASP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] I'm temporarily out of the office-Who to call
I will be out of the office starting 01/28/2010 and will not return until 02/09/2010. I am out of the office starting Jan 29 for medical reasons. My return date is not known yet, but it will likely be at least the 8th of January. I will be reading my Email periodically. Please contact Marietta Young if you need help regarding the ITB integration project (217-6434) or Gary Franklin for general questions (217-6487). Feel free to leave an email if the issue is one that can wait until my return. I'll make every effort to reply as soon as I can before that time. Thanks , John __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] This reflector is very nice
While I have had a K1 for quite a while, I have never posted on the reflector. It is a pretty straight forward little rig, and I never really had any issues. And to be honest, the reflector always seemed a bit strange in operation. But now that I have a K3 on the way, I figured I will be doing some posting, as it is a complex rig compared to the K1. So now that I figured out how to post, I can see that it may be a bit strange compared to most forums, but works very well. And the Elecraft community is a nice bunch of hams. Checking UPS, the K3 just left Sparks, NV at 11:30 am. Am I excited or what. :) Don't crash UPS man __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Inrad 1500Hz filter for the K3
Well they are out of stock, so the filter must be pretty good, or at least popular. I have read nothing but good about this filter, though it seems to be a bit narrow for SSB, or that is what history tells me. Any bad on this filter? I would actually like to put one in the K3 and also the Mark-V, as they share a common IF frequency ( 8125 kHz ). Not looking for Hi-FI, just the best blocking that will still give an intelligible SSB signal. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Inrad 1500Hz filter for the K3
Works great for SSB on my K3... I replaced my 1.8K filters in my setups with 1.5K filters and find them to be very nice for SSB use. I have a hard time faulting the filter in any way... I was able to see what 1.5K would be like using the DSP in the k3 and then bought the filters to protect things at that level... I found that I often ran my 1.8K filters at 1.6 or 1.7K and found that the 1.8K filter sounded like it should be engaged at around 1.9K this is what made me think the 1.5K filter would be fun to have. ~Brett On Thu, 2010-01-28 at 18:53 -0700, Bob Stonesifer wrote: so the filter must be pretty good, or at least popular. I have read nothing but good about this filter, though it seems to be a bit narrow for SSB, or that is what history tells me. Any bad on this filter? I would actually like to put one in the K3 and also the Mark-V, as they share a common IF frequency ( 8125 kHz ). Not looking for Hi-FI, just the best blocking that will still give an intelligible SSB signal. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] BNC Connectors
Looks like the RG223 that I selected isn't all that great for high power either... And I knew that RG-58 was trash and I would never use it at work but as far as home use I always figured meh it works good enough... As far as what I consider acceptable at work it sure is pretty low rent ;) Looks like the RG217 that I loved to use so much when I built our EMC compliance lab is still some very top notch stuff... But its spendy! Oh well thankfully I'm still pretty happy with 100 Watts for now... And the three cables that I bought are designated to be coming directly from the K3. Thus with my 6 foot runs for RG-223 will only account for a third of a dB of loss and will get me into my LP-100A just fine (and maybe even get me into an Amp some day) but I find better antennas a LOT more exciting of a prospect than an amp at the moment. ~Brett (KC7OTG) On Thu, 2010-01-28 at 12:40 -0600, Radio Amateur N5GE wrote: On Wed, 27 Jan 2010 22:35:35 -0800, Brett Howard br...@livecomputers.com wrote: Using the Times Microwave Attenuation and Power Handling Calculator Downloadable from: http://www.timesmicrowave.com/cable_calculators/, I found that RG58 standard coax has .15dB attenuation at a length of 1.5 feet. If one were using this as a jumper between a Transverter or Rig and an Amplifier the loss would be acceptable, but not as a hook up from the amp to a feedthrough connector in the wall or something like that. The power handling capability of an eighteen inch piece like that is only 130 watts. Tom, N5GE n...@n5ge.com K3 #806 with SUB RX, K3 #1055, PR6, XV144, XV432, KRC2, W1, 2 W2's and other small kits 1 K144XV on order http://www.n5ge.com http://www.swotrc.net I've done a good portion of building a K2, and completely built a K1... But amazingly enough I've never solder terminated a coax link... I guess I've always preferred the look of professionally terminated cabling. But now I need a few simple short patch cables. In the shack I have a decent amount 60+ foot or so of RG58/U and then around 120 foot or so of RG58/AU... Pretty much seems about to be the same stuff with one stranded center and the other solid center conductor. I feel for HF use this coax should be ample for a few 18 patches... Anyone disagree? I may end up using these for VHF as well but doubtful I'd do much of anything over 150Mhz. I'm not married to using the cordage that I have on hand but it would be nice to be able to use that stuff If there is something that would fit better feel free to advise. (I've always been a fan of RG-8x for HAM use and I use RG-217 or better at work always but like I said I'm not terminating those myself...) I've attempted to do this with PL-259 connectors before and was unsuccessful (but I tried to use a less than optimal soldering iron and it took too long to get things hot and I ended up with a short in the end). I've now bought an adequate dual temp weller gun and should have better success. So I guess for the next real question where would one recommend to get PL-259 and BNC connectors for this job. Should I go for solder on or crimp on? I'm more than willing to spend the money for a good crimp tool if need be and its a better option. Anyway I'm open to recommendations as to where one should procure the connectors as well as any tips, tricks, and opinions on what I should use (so long as the opinions come with explanations). ;) Thanks kindly gentlemen. ~Brett (KC7OTG) [snip] __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Inrad 1500Hz filter for the K3
It is narrow but you slew the passband shift over so the max intelligibility matches up with the center of the audio (not necessarily with the center of the filter) and you can copy SSB with a 1.1 khz filter. Play with it you will be amazed. The intelligible portion of audio is really quite narrow. Buck k4ia k3# 101 In a message dated 1/28/2010 9:33:44 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, b...@gotoloveland.com writes: Well they are out of stock, so the filter must be pretty good, or at least popular. I have read nothing but good about this filter, though it seems to be a bit narrow for SSB, or that is what history tells me. Any bad on this filter? I would actually like to put one in the K3 and also the Mark-V, as they share a common IF frequency ( 8125 kHz ). Not looking for Hi-FI, just the best blocking that will still give an intelligible SSB signal. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 KUSB PROBLEM
Eric, I tried that a couple of years ago and it worked for about 15 seconds. An RFC in the ground line of the 9 pin D jack inside the K2 opened. It's not an easy part to replace. I found there was about .3 vdc between the case of the laptop and K2. The laptop was operating from it's AC adapter and the K2 from a 13.8 vdc power supply. Others have reported success but didn't work for me. 73, Jim, W0EM -- View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/K2-KUSB-PROBLEM-tp4472555p4478283.html Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] BNC Connectors
Ok so if I was looking for a relatively universal crimp tool to meet most of my needs... (I'm big on if I'm going to buy something I want it to do many things)... ;) I was looking into this crimp tool.. http://www.westmountainradio.com/PWRcrimp.htm For 40 bucks I get the tool and the APP bit then for 14 bucks I could get the #4 die. I have no real need for the RJ one as I've got one of those. Perhaps someday #5 could be useful for helping friends with CATV stuff. But beyond that thats not all THAT expensive and allows for a good bit of stuff... From looking at other coax crimp tools here: http://www.therfc.com/tooling.htm many of them looked to have very limited cable types... I've got RG8/U, RG58, RG223, and RG8 for ham type stuff around the house... The Connex tool there looks similar to the west mtn one but its a bit pricer... Julian has it right on about being able to make cables the length I want them and with the connectors I want (ie not matching on each end). Right now I've got a 100 foot N terminated spool of TWB 6001 ultra low loss stuff in the garage (that work was going to throw out) and I'd like to use it but honestly I've not ever needed 100' of run to date. Not to mention that that stuff is STIFF!! Now if someone would just make me some coax that is the size of mini RG-8 with the performance of RG-217 but the flexibility and cost of RG-58. Then I would have no qualms about having to select what types of coax I want to buy tools and connectors for! So far I think that RG-8/U and RG223 are a decent balance... ~Brett (KC7OTG) On Thu, 2010-01-28 at 07:47 -0600, Steven Pituch wrote: Hi all, I have made a coax connector tutorial and have it on my server at: http://tinyurl.com/ydhoeyr I also have an Anderson Powerpole connector tutorial at: http://tinyurl.com/y9knmrr Both have lots of info and photos. 72, Steve, W2MY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Still confused but working through it.
Gang: Need a little help to clarify the set-up on my XV50. Page 72 of the manual gives initial set-up for the shorting blocks to configure the transverter. In reading the text, I'm finding some difference's based on my set-up. I'm trying to TX/RX on a single antenna and using the K60XV for a low level drive of 1milliwatt. Some of you guys who are running this set-up please tell me if I'm on track. Here's the set-up I'm using: JP1pins 12 JP2pins 12 JP3pins 12 JP4pins 12 ( bypassing the attenuator ) JP5pins 23 JP6pins 23 ( enabling Q6 ) JP7 no shorting block installed JP8 shorted JP9 pins 12 ( I don't have the crystal oven yet ) This will allow me to run one jumper cable from the OUT port of the K60XV to J3 TX in / 1IF on the XV50. The RXout / 2IF is then used to daisy chain to other transverters. Command signals are via the AUX BUS and course the antenna hooks to the transverter J1. YES / NO ?? any suggestions ?? Thanks and 73:Jerry N0JRN __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
