I am assembling a remotely-operated K2 station. I need a timer that will
kill a runaway transmitter. I am planning to install a kill-switch on the
12 volt DC supply, as that is the only way I can be sure to disable the
transmitter. If I have a K2 and the separate 100W power amp, is it
Don,
Thanks for the reply, and for all your other help in configuring my K2
station over the last 5 years.
Just out of curiosity - can this not be done if they are mounted in the
same box? I think when mine were configured that way, there still were two
separate 12V inputs - or do they get
Don,
I get it. Thanks for the details. Just one more reason I am glad I
converted to the separate Amp/ATU box. This makes it very easy.
73, Tom
KG3V
On , Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
Tom,
First the answer about the K3 - there is some cleanup work that must be
done when the
I agree. I would prefer they don't take orders until they have radios ready
to ship. Why is everybody in such a hurry to part with their money? We also
don't want them to ship radios until they are ready. Once we get them, we
want them to be good for many years of use.
I am as impatient as
I have the Hi-Q 4/80 screwdriver antenna and have only used it mobile so
far. It is a great antenna as far as mobile operation goes. I may use it
parked in the driveway as one of my fixed antennas for some upcoming
contests.You could use the Hi-Q antenna with radials or just leave it on
Paul,
I see you got some good answers but just wanted to add some of my
experience. If you are interested in building a kit you can not beat the
K2. K3 is a great radio but is not really a kit. The K2 you build starting
from a box of parts. One of the greatest things about the K2 kit is
I just noticed my K2 has a problem with the AF Gain control. It
is scratchy in the area where I use it most. I see that the RIT control
(rarely used) also has some linearity issues. The rig is about three years
old. I do not use it on a daily basis, but I do use it in contests , where
it
Don,
Thanks again for the help. I think this is working and I will move ahead. I
just need to install my new KNB2 and I should be ready to get the rig back
in the operating position.
I do not have a major gripe with the KAT-2 directions, but it could use an
update. I have a fair amount of
Thanks to both of you for the sugestions. I actually got this to work, and
I am not sure if it originally worked, or if my resoldering fixed a
problem. I was able to obtain a voltage reading but only over about 20
degrees of the rotation of C55. I had no idea it would be this touchy.
Also,
Just finished assembling a KAT2 for my K2. When I started testing I found a
problem. I only get HI on the display in the CALn step, where you are
supposed to adjust for a reading of 000. Reducing power as low as I can go,
I can get a 000 display, but as soon as I increase the power, I get
I have been using my K2 exclusively in the 100W configuration. I now want
to have the option of taking just the base radio and using it stand-alone
for QRP, but without compromising my normal use with the KPA100. I have
separated the KPA100 in the case with the antenna tuner.
I am
I have an intermittent problem. It rarely occurs, but since I mainly use
the K2 for Contesting, it is a real annoyance. Suddenly all audio will go
dead. The only remedy is to recylce power to the unit. It is very possible
that this happens just after I make some control changes (like
Has anyone tried REALLY extending the cable between the K2 and the KAT-2? I
would like to separate mine by 20 or 30 feet. What I want to do is get the
KAT-2 and all the antenna conectors off of my oprating table, and close to
the exit point of the shack.
I have heard the main concerns are
Thanks Don
I guess this might have seemed like a good April fools joke, but actually,
they do this with many other wire type interfaces. This includes Ethernet
and RS-232. So if the drivers are fiber are affordable, I think it could be
done.
If anyone has any data of the required rise
A couple times over the past year my audio died and I had to cycle power to
the rig to get it back. Now suddenly plugging something into the headphone
jack does not stop audio going to the speaker (internal or external). This
is handy for PSK-31, but not what I want for normal operation. Is
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