OK, I am convinced - keep the tuner and the wire. So, that brings up a
second question: balanced vs. unbalanced.
Wire antennas that do not require a counterpoise are usually loops or
dipoles, i.e. inherently balanced even if not resonant. Most tuners
offer an unbalanced output. SGC says,
positions and see which one helps the ATU make the best
match.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
- Original Message -
From: Brian Lloyd [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 8:37 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Bal[un] (was: Buddipole vs. tuner and wire
Last year I used an inverted V doublet, supported by a telescopic
carbon fibre pole (DK9SQ pole http://www.qsl.net/dk9sq and review at http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/1094)
and fed by a short length of ribbon (300 ohms I think, the clear
plastic type) via an SG237. The doublet was not cut
It would really help if we could drop the incorrect balanced/unbalanced
nomenclature, but it's ingrained in Ham lore and it causes
misunderstandings.
A coaxial RF output to an antenna is *balanced*: the currents flowing out
into the coax are as well balanced (perhaps better balanced) than those
: [Elecraft] Bal[un] (was: Buddipole vs. tuner and wire)
Hi Brian
I don't recall if you mentioned what power level you
would be using with your K2. If it is running barefoot,
without the 100w PA, you could use one of the Elecraft
switchable baluns. They switch between 1:1 and 4:1
ratios, giving you
PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Bal[un] (was: Buddipole vs. tuner and wire)
The BL2 (switchable balun) will handle 250 watts! That should be
enough.
Dave W7AQK
- Original Message -
From: Robert Tellefsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Brian Lloyd [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft Reflector
elecraft
6 matches
Mail list logo
