On 7/3/2016 7:38 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
I'm sort of with Joe for higher current stuff ... terminals and
screws.
No screws ... bolt studs and *nuts* - like the terminals on the
Astron RS35A/RS50A/RS70A, etc. I want connections that support
a properly sized ring terminal that can be tightened
I always used Molex connectors, they seem to work well. I switched to
APP's when it seemed everyone was, I have the WMR crimper and haven't
had any problems but then, I don't move my radio around much. I'm sort
of with Joe for higher current stuff ... terminals and screws.
I know -- KID:
I believe these are what you are thinking of:
http://www.neutrik.com/en/audio/powercon/
On Sun, Jul 3, 2016 at 6:39 PM, Edward R Cole wrote:
> I only have power-pole's on my K3/10 and KXPA-100.
>
> I installed a power-pole on the CCI 140w linear I built, but would not do
>
I only have power-pole's on my K3/10 and KXPA-100.
I installed a power-pole on the CCI 140w linear I built, but would
not do it a second time. None of these power-pole will stay seated
if equipment is physically moved.
I very much like the power connectors used by DEMI on their
for up tp 5 amps so I like RCA Phono Plugs inex,,, cant reverse them,,
makes it hard for other folk to borrow your gear really !
Bob K3DJC
On Sun, 3 Jul 2016 11:05:28 -0700 Bill Frantz
writes:
> [New subject in an attempt to avoid topic drift.]
>
> Several
On 7/3/2016 2:05 PM, Bill Frantz wrote:
[New subject in an attempt to avoid topic drift.]
What power connectors do people actually like?
1/4" or 3/8" threaded studs (bolts) for any circuit drawing more than
10 A peak. Certainly *never* a single pin, friction fit connector for
anything more
[New subject in an attempt to avoid topic drift.]
Several people have said that they don't like Powerpole power
connectors. I like them quite a bit, given their flexibility and
ease of use. I will note that the proximate problem that started
this thread again was a bad solder joint, which
IMHO, there are only two kinds of Powerpoles,
those that have already fallen out and those
that are going to fall out soon.
I have had the PowerPoles on my K3 become partially unmated and causing
intermittent operation while messing around with the cables behind the rig.
Retention force is
There are two problems with the PowerPoles:
1. The contact pulls out of the housing due to improper assembly.
2. The completed plug assembly (contacts and housings) pulls out of the
matching assembly on back of the K3.
Most people having a problem don't specify which problem they're
I few day ago someone had posted how the plugged in the power cord wrong (moved
over 1 position)
on his K3 and wound up damaging the connector when the shorted the + Supply to
the Neg PowerPole.
Note: It's a good Idea to fuse the power cord so that the fuse will blow if
this happens.
A
Heck, it is an even better plan to just turn off the power supply
before making any such connection, whether it is a computer, radio, or
accessory.
But, shoot, this could happen to anyone in a hurry or in a moment's
distraction. My most frequent connectivity faux pas is to confuse the
It appears this thread has broken into several topics based upon the readers
interpretation of the
problem. Let's break it into 4 categories:
1. Connecting the wire to the contact (crimping or soldering)
2. Inserting the contact into the connector body
3. Mating two connector bodies to form a
Thanks, that does clear things up.
How about using very flexible stranded power wire? Powerwerx has spools of it,
but I'm sure it is available elsewhere.
http://www.powerwerx.com/wire-cable/power-wire-automotive.html
wunder
K6WRU
On Jun 17, 2013, at 8:53 AM, Roger D Johnson wrote:
It
I recently built some 75A powerpole connectors and bought the bonded
version. Had some difficulty getting a good insertion of the
pins. I wanted to use No. 10 wire and could not get a decent crimp
that would allow insertion (granted I do not have the proper
crimper). I finally resorted to
Roger . . .
K3 serial number 21 was received in kit-form on October 27, 2007, with
the power pole connector firmly attached to the RF Board (by the board
manufacturer) but with one of the wires going to one side of the power
pole just barely long enough to reach the connector. This meant that
If you do not have a proper crimping tool, solder the APP contacts.
Soldering has its downside if used in high vibration environments (the
wire will break where the wicked solder ends), but for applications
where the wire is not subjected to vibration, soldering is better than
connections made
Don,
I tried that, first. I trust solder joints to maintain low
resistance better than crimping in some atmospheres. But the large
wire sitting in the connector with the crimp wings sticking
straight up would not fit into the square hole of the power pole. I
wasted one connector in
I have some #12 stranded wire that came from Radio Shack in my
junk box. (I always like to support local stores. Perhaps
they'll be there when I need something in a hurry.)
Cheers - Bill, AE6JV
On 6/17/13 at 10:54 AM, wun...@wunderwood.org (Walter Underwood) wrote:
How about using very
Ed,
If you are using #10 wire, I would rate that at 30 amps. That gauge
wire will just barely fit into the 30 amp APP connectors, and I prefer
to use the 45 amp connectors for #10 wire. I think your use of the 75
amp APP connectors is overkill.
Yes, the proper crimping tool is mandatory
The Powerwerx #10 equivalent wire is 392 strands of #36 copper, so it is much
more flexible than regular stranded wire. Their #8 equivalent is 616 strands of
#36.
wunder
K6WRU
On Jun 17, 2013, at 5:40 PM, Bill Frantz wrote:
I have some #12 stranded wire that came from Radio Shack in my junk
FWIW - My memory of the National Electrical Code is that
soldering is permitted for low current connections (up to 20A),
but higher currents require wire nuts or some other approved
connection. The code authorities worry that a bad connection
will got hot and melt the solder letting it flow
If they are coming apart easily then you are not building them right. I have
done thousands and learned a few things in the process. (I make and sell cables
at hamfests.) They should take at least 10 pounds of pressure to pull them
apart. It should take enough pressure to connect them that you
They've work well for me ... never a problem. I have
a RIGrunner 4008H fused distribution box from West
Mountain Radio that makes my 12 VDC distribution
neat n tidy.
73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
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