On 7/24/20 4:19 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
On Friday 24 July 2020 18:13:17 andy pugh wrote:
On Fri, 24 Jul 2020 at 22:41, Gene Heskett
wrote:
deb http://buildbot.linuxcnc.org/ wheezy master-rt
Oh, OK.
It seems that buildbot is in a bad mood:
http://buildbot.linuxcnc.org/dists/
Thats a
On Saturday 25 July 2020 17:17:58 Chris Albertson wrote:
> You can try and press fit bearing but epoxy in a loose fit hole works
> really well as for grease attacking plastic. Try it. Sear whatever
> you have on some reject parts and put it in a ziplock bag, take it out
> every week or so and
With a sharp thread profile like a wood or sheet metal screw and especially a
self cutting thread into plastic there's a simple trick to make the threads
last a long time with repeated use.
While applying gentle pressure, or just the weight of the screwdriver, first
turn the screw slowly
Don't know if this guy is still around but he had a method of resharpening
carbide end mills where they could cut really hard materials, like metal files.
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCN6hhXdNcy00iIp6Hfwo29A
On Saturday, July 25, 2020, 1:46:25 AM MDT, andrew beck
wrote:
You can buy
I would be interested in how the Okuma compares with your machine in dead
weight, live weight, max feeds and max acceleration.
Obviously some of those numbers are hard to get but Overall weight, max feed
and acceleration are published by Okuma.
> On Jul 25, 2020, at 5:16 PM, N wrote:
>
>
Corner turning with a drag knife can be done by raising the knife until the
point is just into the material. Then sweep an arc with a radius equal to the
knife point offset. For inside corners that's the way to do it. On outside
corners that method works or you can have it go past the end then
> Thanks for all the replies guys.
>
> My machine runs mint it's just at high speed the whole thing shakes.
>
> I think my solution will be to rubber mount the whole electrical box and
> also program in fusion360 cam for feedlimited corners if possible
>
> In the future if S curve jerk limiting
You can try and press fit bearing but epoxy in a loose fit hole works
really well as for grease attacking plastic. Try it. Sear whatever you
have on some reject parts and put it in a ziplock bag, take it out every
week or so and check. Many of us would like to read about this test. Try
salad
Thanks for all the replies guys.
My machine runs mint it's just at high speed the whole thing shakes.
I think my solution will be to rubber mount the whole electrical box and
also program in fusion360 cam for feedlimited corners if possible
In the future if S curve jerk limiting is done that
Here is cutting machines in action https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C-67lKePbcQ
somewhere from one third to half way thru, also other places using a knife as
someone suggested, this one need a spindle encoder. Guess this is the
technology for small series, either do myself buying tool to my
On Saturday 25 July 2020 13:10:11 Chris Albertson wrote:
> Common? Only once then people figure out to never again put support
> in the nut packers or hole os com up with an even better solution than
> using nuts. Like heated brass thread inserts or just model threads in
> the plastic.
>
> There
I do not understand all of your email, but let me try to respond. You
describe a die-cutting method called kiss-cutting in which the cut does not
go through all the layers of a label, for instance. These are usually done
on presses, such as a clam-shell press, and using steel-rule dies. For a
On Sat, Jul 25, 2020 at 10:58 AM John Dammeyer
wrote:
>
> My 3D printer is at the low end of the scale for quality and although I
> use it for all sorts of things, I wouldn't use it to make a 3000 RPM pulley.
>
It really does work. I used an Anet A6 printer I paid $180 for the
printers Here
I watches a Youtube video where sme one tried different methods with
threads and then put in an M5 screw and then pulled the screw head in a
test cell until the it failed and measured the pullout force.If you do
it right one is about as good as the other as it was never the threads that
fails
Otherwise I better of find someone locally, have seen some plotters I think do
something similar, it is common stickers are cut half way thru and thought
maybe someone know what kind of tool is used to this kind of things so I could
the machine on floor 2-3 meters behind me? If you are close
> Hi,
> TinyG is supposed to have S curve accel and limited jerk. It might be
> worth looking at for approach. Should be easy since it is pretty much
> linuxcnc but embedded.
> Just a comment following up on an earlier post; maybe a week ago or so.
> Just poking the bear. :-)
>
> Dave
Forgot
Thanks. Good suggestions and warnings.
Is it possible to mill the profile with the pulley horizontal?I guess it
depends how thick the pulley is and how long a small end mill can be without
breaking. I'd guess the standard way is rotary indexer with pulley face
vertical and ball mill.
On 7/25/20 1:10 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
> ...just model threads in the plastic.
This trick works much better on the newer high resolution MSLA resin
printers that sell for as little as $209. I used FreeCAD this morning
to design a rough functional prototype to test that has 1/2-28 threads.
Yes, The the best and newest tooth profile the GT3 from Gates. These are
quiet and have there smallest backlash and also the smallest belt tension
requirements.
Running a pass of a ball nose might make a working pully but the profile
will not be exact. If you must MAKE a uleey the trick is to
Common? Only once then people figure out to never again put support in the
nut packers or hole os com up with an even better solution than using nuts.
Like heated brass thread inserts or just model threads in the plastic.
There are many solutions for dealing with threads for screws and all of
Notice the tip of the blade is not on the centerline of the tool holder and
the offset moves to trail the direction of movement. As I said, you will
have to think about how to make corners
On Fri, Jul 24, 2020 at 6:05 PM andy pugh wrote:
> On Sat, 25 Jul 2020 at 01:48, Matthew Herd wrote:
> >
take a look at steel rule dies
they are cheap ( relative term )
and not difficult to make ( again relative)
you can get it made custom using online services.
The ejector is a rubber-like pad surrounding the rule
tomp
On 7/25/20 6:09 PM, andy pugh wrote:
On Sat, 25 Jul 2020 at 12:05, N
Hi,
TinyG is supposed to have S curve accel and limited jerk. It might be
worth looking at for approach. Should be easy since it is pretty much
linuxcnc but embedded.
Just a comment following up on an earlier post; maybe a week ago or so.
Just poking the bear. :-)
Dave
If you do not want to invest in tooling or machines or learning something
new, there is a prototype die-cutting service that can score plastic sheets
so that you can follow-up with scissors. Full -disclosure it is my company
(see below). We have done this for clothing designers by scoring
On Saturday 25 July 2020 09:00:52 andy pugh wrote:
> On Sat, 25 Jul 2020 at 13:50, Gene Heskett
wrote:
> > > There should never need to be support in a through-hole. (what is
> > > it supporting?)
> >
> > This is something I found on thingiverse searching for harmonic
> > drive.
>
> Support is
> Depending on the plastic I'd first look at laser for this application.
> Don't laser PVC. PE and PP can be difficult unless it is very thin.
>
> Drag or tangential knife would be my second choice. You'll need some way
> to hold the sheet down. Simply taping down the edges may work. For
>
On 25 Jul 2020, at 08:43, andrew beck wrote:
> single flute
> router cutters for like 3usd.Just trying to help fellow
> linuxcnc guys
Thanks. That's really useful to know. At around 80USD for a 12mm cutter
locally, this is a source I will try, especially when you are saying you have
On Saturday 25 July 2020 09:00:52 andy pugh wrote:
> On Sat, 25 Jul 2020 at 13:50, Gene Heskett
wrote:
> > > There should never need to be support in a through-hole. (what is
> > > it supporting?)
> >
> > This is something I found on thingiverse searching for harmonic
> > drive.
>
> Support is
On Sat, 25 Jul 2020 at 13:50, Gene Heskett wrote:
>
> > There should never need to be support in a through-hole. (what is it
> > supporting?)
>
> This is something I found on thingiverse searching for harmonic drive.
Support is added by the slicer. You can control where it is inserted.
(to an
On Saturday 25 July 2020 07:03:29 andy pugh wrote:
> On Sat, 25 Jul 2020 at 11:22, Gene Heskett
wrote:
> > thru hole had been left empty but the other 6 thru holes have
> > support in them
>
> There should never need to be support in a through-hole. (what is it
> supporting?)
This is something
For that size I would use an HTD 5M. Maybe a 8M (8mm pitch)
A benefit too, us that most vehicles use this dimension for the cambelts,
so you can easily get belts. And even scrapped pulleys that are still
perfectly good. Pulleys are expensive and you can get a scrapped pulley for
< $1
Then
Depending on the plastic I'd first look at laser for this application.
Don't laser PVC. PE and PP can be difficult unless it is very thin.
Drag or tangential knife would be my second choice. You'll need some way
to hold the sheet down. Simply taping down the edges may work. For
thinner more
> On Sat, 25 Jul 2020 at 12:05, N wrote:
>
> > Square outline with four or six square holes is the most important but it
> > might be I want to cover another surface with slighlty more complicated
> > form and mor holes. Need only four of them right now for prototypes and
> > maybe 30-40
While I wouldn't want to discourage anyone from getting a CNC router or
laser, as a little exercise in outside the box thinking, 3D printing
these insulator sheets would be a fairly trivial exercise. I sometimes
print first layer calibration test squares on a flat glass bed. Dial in
the bed
On Sat, 25 Jul 2020 at 12:05, N wrote:
> Square outline with four or six square holes is the most important but it
> might be I want to cover another surface with slighlty more complicated form
> and mor holes. Need only four of them right now for prototypes and maybe
> 30-40 later on.
Laser
> On Sat, 25 Jul 2020 at 09:10, N wrote:
>
> > Need to cut plastic films for electrical isolation.
>
> What sort of shapes? How many pieces a day and in total?
Square outline with four or six square holes is the most important but it might
be I want to cover another surface with slighlty more
On Sat, 25 Jul 2020 at 11:22, Gene Heskett wrote:
> thru hole had been left empty but the other 6 thru holes have support in
> them
There should never need to be support in a through-hole. (what is it
supporting?)
--
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
designed
Greetings all;
I just pulled the first body off the plate, and was trying to clean out
the nut pockets. I did well on the 6 that bolt the ring gear in, as the
thru hole had been left empty but the other 6 thru holes have support in
them and the pocket fillers can't be dug out. So I'll likely
On Sat, 25 Jul 2020 at 09:10, N wrote:
> Need to cut plastic films for electrical isolation.
What sort of shapes? How many pieces a day and in total?
--
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and
> On Sat, 25 Jul 2020 at 01:48, Matthew Herd wrote:
> >
> > I did some reading. Here’s a much cheaper one.
> > https://www.amazon.com/Carbide-Housing-Silhouette-Machines-Portrait/dp/B07LBN6Y89
>
> Yes, that is also in pen-plotter format.
Have an engraver and a CNC machine, engraver spindle
You can buy your router bits from China if you want. I bring in probably
15k usd per year. My supplier sells ultra sharp endmills or single flute
router cutters for like 3usd. Often for routers and custom form tools they
are better than the branded stuff here that costs 30 nzd.
Anyway just
I bought a cheap drag knife some time ago, from a far off land, but I have not
yet used it, because:
(a) it does need routines for turning corners, and
(b) upon inspection, I decided that a critical factor is likely to be the
ability of the knife to swivel very freely; and this cheap one didn't.
42 matches
Mail list logo
