Sounds like you have an aquarium air valve.
Find a hobby shop that sells models that use engines. Ask for a mixture
needle assembly. Most shops have a stack of broken models out the back
that they raid for parts. Generally the needle valves have a 1/8 hose
barb on one end and a thread on the
Gene,
Can't imagine why you'd want to stand in an inch of water to
soften brass ;-}
You answered your own question really - just get it hot and
leave it - it will be soft. Better still, use copper.
Now, needle valves - think laterally - where are they used -
carburettors do you have an
On Friday 20 November 2009, Leslie Newell wrote:
Sounds like you have an aquarium air valve.
Or an ice-maker shutoff. :)
Find a hobby shop that sells models that use engines. Ask for a mixture
needle assembly. Most shops have a stack of broken models out the back
that they raid for parts.
On Friday 20 November 2009, Ian W. Wright wrote:
Gene,
Can't imagine why you'd want to stand in an inch of water to
soften brass ;-}
The cartridge case, not me obviously. ;)
You answered your own question really - just get it hot and
leave it - it will be soft. Better still, use copper.
No
One idea I have been meaning to try on my mister is to use a peristaltic
pump, maybe powered by a stepper and EMC2 stepgen, to meter the fluid
into the air stream. This way, I can better control the fluid quantity
rate and I won't get fluid drain-back, so the fluid will come on
instantly. Inkjet
2009/11/19 Gene Heskett gene.hesk...@gmail.com:
I even tried to swage it down onto the needle
with a hammer and anvil, but I can see that is just as futile. So I'm going
to sleep on it unless someone has a better idea.
Will an ER collet crimp the tube down?
I think I would be trying 2-part
On Thursday 19 November 2009, Andy Pugh wrote:
2009/11/19 Gene Heskett gene.hesk...@gmail.com:
I even tried to swage it down onto the needle
with a hammer and anvil, but I can see that is just as futile. So I'm
going to sleep on it unless someone has a better idea.
Will an ER collet crimp
On Thursday 19 November 2009, Andy Pugh wrote:
2009/11/19 Gene Heskett gene.hesk...@gmail.com:
I even tried to swage it down onto the needle
with a hammer and anvil, but I can see that is just as futile. So I'm
going to sleep on it unless someone has a better idea.
Will an ER collet crimp
Gene,
I think your brain's working too hard!! You probably won't
have much success with Insulin needles as the length of thin
tube will act as a brake on the oil. One place you can find
really small bore tube is on an old fridge - the thermostat
bulb which is in the frig compartment is
On Thursday 19 November 2009, Ian W. Wright wrote:
Gene,
I think your brain's working too hard!!
:) Probably so Ian.
You probably won't
have much success with Insulin needles as the length of thin
tube will act as a brake on the oil.
There seems to be plenty of pressure to make it flow.
One
@lists.sourceforge.net
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Mister for small mill
Gene,
I think your brain's working too hard!! You probably won't
have much success with Insulin needles as the length of thin
tube will act as a brake on the oil. One place you can find
really small bore tube is on an old fridge - the thermostat
. Wright watchma...@talktalk.net
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:44:45
To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Mister for small mill
Gene,
I think your brain's working too hard!! You probably won't
have much success with Insulin needles as the length of thin
tube will act as a brake
2009/11/19 Gene Heskett gene.hesk...@gmail.com:
What is the best procedure to anneal just the last 1/8 of this tubing, it
might work if I can get it dead soft again.
Just get it hot and keep it that way for a while. There is no phase
transition to worry about with brass.
--
atp
I would be concerned about having a very fine needle sticking out. It
would be very vulnerable. I have no problems with a piece of 1/16 OD
tube and a needle valve. You are going to need a needle valve anyway
because some jobs need more oil than others.
Les
Gene Heskett wrote:
On Thursday 19
As far as I know you don't have to hold it hot for very long. Get it
red, quench and job done. Quenching in battery acid helps remove the
black oxide but beware of the fumes.
Les
Andy Pugh wrote:
2009/11/19 Gene Heskett gene.hesk...@gmail.com:
What is the best procedure to anneal just the
On Thursday 19 November 2009, Andy Pugh wrote:
2009/11/19 Gene Heskett gene.hesk...@gmail.com:
What is the best procedure to anneal just the last 1/8 of this tubing,
it might work if I can get it dead soft again.
Just get it hot and keep it that way for a while. There is no phase
transition to
2009/11/20 Gene Heskett gene.hesk...@gmail.com:
Ok. I was going by what I do for cartridge brass necks, which is warm them
while standing in an inch of water, watching the color, and when the straw
gets to the base of the neck, knock that one over into the cool water. That,
while stress
On Thursday 19 November 2009, Leslie Newell wrote:
I would be concerned about having a very fine needle sticking out. It
would be very vulnerable. I have no problems with a piece of 1/16 OD
tube and a needle valve. You are going to need a needle valve anyway
because some jobs need more oil than
On Fri, 2009-11-20 at 00:16 +, Andy Pugh wrote:
2009/11/20 Gene Heskett gene.hesk...@gmail.com:
Ok. I was going by what I do for cartridge brass necks, which is warm them
while standing in an inch of water, watching the color, and when the straw
gets to the base of the neck, knock
Gentle persons:
I know I'm a big worry wort but two things really bother me about misting.
The first thing goes back to my days as a lab safety officer. Our lungs
aren't really designed to deal with atomized organic oils. A Material
Safety Data Sheet may say the oil has low toxicity but that
If you really dont want mist in the air there was an article in an old
magazine, I think HOME SHOP MACHINIST about building a solenoid operated
pump with a nozzle held by a mag base and pointed at the work. It used a
555 timer IC to generate a tiny pump stroke every few seconds. This
directed
If you are machining some of the softer grades of aluminum you need a
pretty much constant flow of coolant. You don't need much but if it runs
dry it can clog the cutter very quickly. Also if you are using carbide a
sudden squirt of coolant could cause the cutting edges to crack.
Les
Ron
On Wednesday 18 November 2009, Ron Ginger wrote:
If you really dont want mist in the air there was an article in an old
magazine, I think HOME SHOP MACHINIST about building a solenoid operated
pump with a nozzle held by a mag base and pointed at the work. It used a
555 timer IC to generate a tiny
If you want to cheat on the orifice drilling - consider using a mig
welder tip - a common Tweco tip comes in a .024 size and I have used
that in a waste oil burner as an air jet. I soldered the tip into the
ID of a piece of 1/4 copper tubing. Works great - and no small hole
drilling. Want
A couple observations on misters. When they are properly adjusted the
amount of mist dispensed is tiny. A Bijur unit will take several seconds
to puddle just 2-3 drops into your hand. The cooling is mostly from the
air stream. If you have a room full of mist you are not running it right.
To
There's good reason not to want castor oil mist spraying
about too much - those first world war fighter aces were
never constipated breathing in all the castor oil fumes
coming from their engines - and the brown underpants were
not always a result of clashes with the enemy!! ;-}
Ian
From past experiences with IC radio controlled models, this is a
definite drawback to castor oil.
Les
Ian W. Wright wrote:
There's good reason not to want castor oil mist spraying
about too much - those first world war fighter aces were
never constipated breathing in all the castor oil
On Monday 16 November 2009, Leslie Newell wrote:
From past experiences with IC radio controlled models, this is a
definite drawback to castor oil.
Les
Ian W. Wright wrote:
There's good reason not to want castor oil mist spraying
about too much - those first world war fighter aces were
never
On Mon, 2009-11-16 at 08:11 -0500, Gene Heskett wrote:
On Monday 16 November 2009, Leslie Newell wrote:
From past experiences with IC radio controlled models, this is a
definite drawback to castor oil.
Les
Ian W. Wright wrote:
There's good reason not to want castor oil mist spraying
Misters bother me unless they are tuned just so you can put a big
cloud in your shop in no time.
Flood coolant might be messy also but it doesn't fog your shop and your
lungs.
There is some mention of people trying to use food oils on
practicalmachinist.com and the residue drying to a
I was looking at misters too once, and it seems the general feeling is it's
fine if you're happy to have everything in the workshop coated with oil in a
few months.
If making a mister, why not just 'mist' oil directly, without the air? Like
those 'airless' spray guns. Unless the air blast is a
Hi Gene,
I've been following the thread you started on a mister for a small mill.
I can't advise you on making your own, but I can recommend that you just
buy one. The systems I have here in my shop are made by Kool Mist. Hands
down they are the best. I never buy mine new, but I find them on
2009/11/16 Roland Jollivet roland.jolli...@gmail.com:
Whale oil was once heavily used in the U.S. for lamp oil and lubricants but
not for cooking. The Inuit do use whale oil for cooking as an alternative
for Seal Oil http://www.clovegarden.com/ingred/oils.html#seal. Oil from
sperm whales
On Monday 16 November 2009, dave wrote:
On Mon, 2009-11-16 at 08:11 -0500, Gene Heskett wrote:
On Monday 16 November 2009, Leslie Newell wrote:
From past experiences with IC radio controlled models, this is a
definite drawback to castor oil.
Les
Ian W. Wright wrote:
There's good reason
On Monday 16 November 2009, Dave wrote:
Misters bother me unless they are tuned just so you can put a big
cloud in your shop in no time.
Flood coolant might be messy also but it doesn't fog your shop and your
lungs.
There is some mention of people trying to use food oils on
Greetings all;
I find that I can get brass tubing in pretty small sizes, like 1/16 OD,
usually sized to be a slip fit in the next larger size, so this makes it easy
to solder up a small nozzle, with the far end built up to 1/4 for attaching
the air supply.
Now, I'm wondering if there is a
Here is how I did it. I took a short piece of brass bar and drilled most
of the way through with a drill slightly bigger than the smallest tube I
could easily obtain. This creates the air jet. I then drilled the rest
of the way with a drill the same size as the tube. Next I drilled
diagonally
If it's organic, it's bound to be Castor oil, an excellent lubricant.
Because it gums up over time, you could just let it go to drain.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?I=LXS627P=8
Roland
2009/11/15 Leslie Newell les.new...@fastmail.co.uk
Here is how I did it. I took a short
On Sunday 15 November 2009, Leslie Newell wrote:
Here is how I did it. I took a short piece of brass bar and drilled most
of the way through with a drill slightly bigger than the smallest tube I
could easily obtain. This creates the air jet. I then drilled the rest
of the way with a drill the same
Castor oil is a good guess but not the only one. It's fatty acids are a
couple of carbons longer than the average cooking oil and does seem to
survive well as a lube in model airplane engines. On the industrial
market it is about 30% more expensive than canola. If I wanted to go
cheap I'd simply
On Nov 15, 2009, at 12:45 PM, dave wrote:
Castor oil is a good guess but not the only one. It's fatty acids
are a
couple of carbons longer than the average cooking oil and does seem to
survive well as a lube in model airplane engines. On the industrial
market it is about 30% more
Hi Gene,
almost exactly the same as an air brush gun, where the liquid
comes out of the center. So that center tube feeding in the oil is
surrounded by by the air exiting through the gap between the OD of that tube
and the drilled holes walls.
Yup. The tricky bit is finding the right
On Sunday 15 November 2009, Leslie Newell wrote:
Hi Gene,
almost exactly the same as an air brush gun, where the liquid
comes out of the center. So that center tube feeding in the oil is
surrounded by by the air exiting through the gap between the OD of that
tube and the drilled holes walls.
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