Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-11 Thread Lester Caine
On 11/04/15 18:01, Gene Heskett wrote:
 an internal solution is required, and tanking is a 
  well established process which can make even the wettest basement
  habitable. The problem is it has to be a complete tank, but good work
  can recover even basements with running water under them :)
 Tanking?  Not gonna happen, this pair of packrats has filled it with lots 
 of momento's that at the end of our run, probably aren't even yard sale 
 table stuff.

Having seen what some people have achieved in London basements anything
is possible, but there has to be value in doing it. Like converting a
£150k black hole into a £500k studio flat. Some thing like £250k profit!
... We all seem to be in the wrong game ;)

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Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-11 Thread Jon Elson
On 04/10/2015 11:31 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:

 This place isn't that bad, YET.
Yes, probably takes 50+ years.  (Cue ominous music...)
 How does that product compare  with the sackrete version of hydraulic
 cement?
Not cement at all.  It is two epoxies.  First you glue 
little tube fittings to the wall at 1' intervals.  Then, you 
glue up the crack with the hard, grey epoxy, and let it set 
for a day.  Then, you mix up this thin, liquid stuff that 
turns into a rubbery filler, and inject into the fittings.  
I did not do a great job of the gluing of the fittings, and 
had leaks there.  I did my best to hold back the leaks and 
get the stuff into the crack.
   Comes in a 10 lb yellow tub, dry, and I paid a tenner for a
 plastic tub of it today.  But its too wet to use it now.
The whole deal with this LCR, I think, it that it cures into 
a rubbery material.  This allows the cracked wall to flex 
somewhat with wet-dry cycles without breaking the seal.

Jon

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Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-11 Thread Karlsson Wang
Well you have to add drainage on the outside! It might also be good with a 
layer insulation.


http://www.google.se/imgres?imgurl=http://www.anticimex.com/sv/SysContentAssets/6d5ad92fe5de49e581810cbe5f5e2d89/moderna_kallare_har_skyddande_isolering.jpg/imgrefurl=http://www.anticimex.com/sv/se/Privat/Fukt/Grund-och-kallare/Kallare/h=261w=515tbnid=9SGTcNJxIeOUwM:zoom=1docid=YHiPGe1mvgK9BMei=_rsoVdj_JseqswGMhoCgBwtbm=ischved=0CCQQMygFMAU




On Fri, 10 Apr 2015 20:44:41 -0500
Jon Elson el...@pico-systems.com wrote:

 On 04/10/2015 12:14 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
  Greetings all;
 
  I am in the middle of an attempt to dry up my basement, and I've a sump
  dug about a foot deep 2 feet more to go is the plan, but we had north of
  3 of precip in the last 36 hours and I am losing the battle.
 
 
 I can't help with the G-code, I know the mill operations better.
 
 But, I had a leaky crack in my basement, and used the LCR 
 (Liquid concrete repair) kit sold
 through the internet for under $80 delivered.  I only used 
 half the kit, as it was almost a hairline crack.  It has 
 been over a full year, now, and NOT a DROP of leakage.  It 
 used to make lakes on the basement floor.  So, I highly 
 recommend this stuff.
 We have had several major downpours since I made the fix, 
 and it has held.
 
 Jon
 
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Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-11 Thread Gregg Eshelman
Sounds like your next home improvement project is digging a trench 
around the house to bury some perforated pipe in gravel, with a 
geotextile lining the trench to prevent dirt infiltrating and clogging 
the gravel.

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Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-11 Thread Gregg Eshelman
On 4/10/2015 8:32 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:

 My major problem is a plug one, 2 more open next time we get a gully
 washer.  The basement walls, while made of 12 blocks, are I believe
 what is called a hatite block in some locales.  The outer surface was
 given a quite visible layer of waterproofing tar, but I've not a clue if
 it was applied all the way down the outside of the footings in '74 when
 the place was built.

Cinder blocks? Sometimes called pumice blocks but pumice is too light 
and wimpy. Lightly crushed volcanic cinder (foamy reddish lava rock) 
mixed with cement to stick it together.

It's the styrofoam version of concrete. Not for load bearing structural 
use, except for holding itself up, at which it tends to excel poorly. 
Likes to crumble in earthquakes. Absolutely not suitable for use as jack 
stands. Should be filled solid with concrete and rebar if you insist 
upon building a structure with these blocks that you want to be 
reasonably certain it will stay upright.

Would likely make a heck of a mess, but if you could flood the cavities 
in the blocks with sodium silicate then let that dry after it drains 
out, followed by painting a coat of urethane resin on the inside of the 
wall, that might seal the blocks to keep the water on the out side. I'd 
finish the job by pumping the cavities full of low expanding urethane foam.

Sodium silicate was pumped into a cracked wall and surrounding soil at a 
leaking radioactive fuel storage pool at the Fukushima nuclear power 
plant, stopped the leak, might work on your basement. Might even 
strengthen the blocks and prevent unintended basement living in the 
event of an earthquake.


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Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-11 Thread Gene Heskett
On Saturday 11 April 2015 05:31:44 Gregg Eshelman wrote:
 On 4/10/2015 8:32 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
  My major problem is a plug one, 2 more open next time we get a gully
  washer.  The basement walls, while made of 12 blocks, are I believe
  what is called a hatite block in some locales.  The outer surface
  was given a quite visible layer of waterproofing tar, but I've not a
  clue if it was applied all the way down the outside of the footings
  in '74 when the place was built.

 Cinder blocks? Sometimes called pumice blocks but pumice is too light
 and wimpy. Lightly crushed volcanic cinder (foamy reddish lava rock)
 mixed with cement to stick it together.

No reddish tint to them.  Major content is usually fly ash from a coal 
burning power plant, same light grey color as a good block is.

 It's the styrofoam version of concrete. Not for load bearing
 structural use, except for holding itself up, at which it tends to
 excel poorly. Likes to crumble in earthquakes. Absolutely not suitable
 for use as jack stands. Should be filled solid with concrete and rebar
 if you insist upon building a structure with these blocks that you
 want to be reasonably certain it will stay upright.

Geologically quiet, they almost got away with it. Tops inaccessible 
without boring a hole into the block, no doubt further weakening it.

 Would likely make a heck of a mess, but if you could flood the
 cavities in the blocks with sodium silicate then let that dry after it
 drains out, followed by painting a coat of urethane resin on the
 inside of the wall, that might seal the blocks to keep the water on
 the out side. I'd finish the job by pumping the cavities full of low
 expanding urethane foam.

Which would improve the insulation at the same time. But I don't think 
Dee's lungs, already in sad shape from COPD, could tolerate the odor 
that never quite leaves.

 Sodium silicate was pumped into a cracked wall and surrounding soil at
 a leaking radioactive fuel storage pool at the Fukushima nuclear power
 plant, stopped the leak, might work on your basement. Might even
 strengthen the blocks and prevent unintended basement living in the
 event of an earthquake.

That doesn't seem to be a major hazard in these parts, the only one I 
know of and felt in 31 years here was the one that damaged the 
Washington Monument, at least 150 air miles away.  My chair I'm sitting 
in did a few 1/4 circles on the rug pad at the time but nothing was 
jiggled off a shelf.

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Cheers, Gene Heskett
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Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-11 Thread Gene Heskett
On Saturday 11 April 2015 06:59:55 Lester Caine wrote:

 Snip the advert for bad builders :)

Ok, done :)

  Sometimes you have to be smarter than the average plumber employed
  by a subdivision builder. Most aren't even qualified to run a
  shovel!

 All sounds about par for the course ...

Chuckle, thats why they aren't stock brokers I guess.

 If access to the outside of the foundations is relatively easy then
 obviously that is the way to do it right, but when there are other
 restrictions preventing that ... such as the neighbours house or a
 public road ...

In our case, decks we have built on, both front and back.

 an internal solution is required, and tanking is a 
 well established process which can make even the wettest basement
 habitable. The problem is it has to be a complete tank, but good work
 can recover even basements with running water under them :)

Tanking?  Not gonna happen, this pair of packrats has filled it with lots 
of momento's that at the end of our run, probably aren't even yard sale 
table stuff.

Dump it, preferably in the storm drains. If not, use it to help keep the 
sewer flushed and open.  The ideal would be to run it down the wall in a 
straight line about 5 feet up and out the end of the basement to 
intercept where we *think* the storm drain runs.  Unforch that would be 
under either a hot pink azaelea thats been there for 35-40 years and 
sacrosanct, or even more unlucky, under the central airs compressor pad.  
Either would be a pain in the butt.

Redistribution on the yard would help me grow healthier looking weeds, 
but they would still be weeds. And would probably recycle it back into 
the sump pit in 3 days. :(

I've put 50 lbs of grass seed on this place over the last 25 years and 
its still 20% wild onions and 50% moss. I even tilled a patch in the 
front yard about 15x30 several years ago try and start some decent 
looking grass from scratch and seeded it new.  Can't find it today.  Its 
our place, all paid for, but the villages neat yard showcase? not...

Cheers, Gene Heskett
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[Emc-users] Announcing 2.7.0~pre6

2015-04-11 Thread Sebastian Kuzminsky
Here comes another 2.7 pre-release: 2.7.0~pre6.

This one fixes a regression in the new trajectory planner and an old
memory corruption bug in hal pin/signal linking, and a couple of other
relatively minor things.

Please give this new pre-release a serious workout, and let's get 2.7
out soon!


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Re: [Emc-users] Homing

2015-04-11 Thread Gene Heskett
On Sunday 12 April 2015 00:16:23 Neil wrote:
 Why would I have a Unhome all axes option under the machine menu,
 but not Home all axes.  Is there a way to set it up so I can home
 all axes with one button?  Or better -- to let it automatically home
 all axes for which I have a home switch setup?

 Thanks.

Do you have, in your .ini file, a line per axis stating

HOME_SEQUENCE = number?

The number, starting with 0 determines the order that the axises are 
homed in.

If its missing, I don't think axis gives you anything but the dots to 
select the axis to be homed when the HOME button is clicked on, or the 
keyboard HOME key is pressed.

When the HOME ALL has been configured correctly, then the keyboard 
shortcut of Ctrl+HOME keys will do it all.  My Z home is fairly close to 
the chuck on my lathe, so I am in the habit of emptying the toolpost 
else it can break expen$ive tooling if there is work in the chuck.  
BTDT. :(

Because of the preparation to make sure the machine CAN move w/o damaging 
anything, I have serious doubts that LinuxCNC will ever have a 1 time, 
at launch time, automatic home.  That could/would be quite dangerous in 
everyones opinion. IOW the lack of it is a safety feature.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
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[Emc-users] Homing

2015-04-11 Thread Neil
Why would I have a Unhome all axes option under the machine menu, but 
not Home all axes.  Is there a way to set it up so I can home all axes 
with one button?  Or better -- to let it automatically home all axes for 
which I have a home switch setup?

Thanks.


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Re: [Emc-users] Homing

2015-04-11 Thread Dave Cole
Is there a way to set it up so I can home all axes
with one button?


Yes you can, and you can change the order of the homing by axis.

It's in the system integrator manual.   Search for homing.

Dave

On 4/12/2015 12:16 AM, Neil wrote:
 Why would I have a Unhome all axes option under the machine menu, but
 not Home all axes.  Is there a way to set it up so I can home all axes
 with one button?  Or better -- to let it automatically home all axes for
 which I have a home switch setup?

 Thanks.


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Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-11 Thread Gene Heskett
On Saturday 11 April 2015 05:15:51 Gregg Eshelman wrote:
 Sounds like your next home improvement project is digging a trench
 around the house to bury some perforated pipe in gravel, with a
 geotextile lining the trench to prevent dirt infiltrating and clogging
 the gravel.

That was done (obviously poorly or not deep enough) as project #1 when my 
yet to be wife bought the place in '80. Supposedly the gutters drain 
into this also, and I considered taking the sump pumps output and 
dumping it into one of those, but its far enough away I'd have to dig 3 
feet deep to get under the frost line and intercept it for a good 16 
feet of run.

Considered, but I would have to demolish the back deck to gain digging 
access. So it appears that I will be adding tan water to the run from 
the bathtub/shower to the other end of the house, a mod I made in 
about '92 to keep the sewer working.  The folks who plumbed the sewer 
were an abject failure at the plumbing rule #2 that says shit runs 
downhill so they dumped the commode into the main run under the basement 
floor where the solids settled out, blocking the sewer for the rest of 
the house repeatedly.  So I disconnected the bathtub from dropping into 
that standpipe, and took it 25 feet to the beginning of the run and Y'd 
it into the newly city mandated cleanout port on an outside wall so that 
everytime we took a shower, some of those solids would be flushed on 
thru the system, aided by the flow from the laundry tube and washing 
machine.  Haven't had to call the city and have them blow it out since, 
so the port they mandated I retrofit has never been used for the 
intended purpose

Sometimes you have to be smarter than the average plumber employed by a 
subdivision builder. Most aren't even qualified to run a shovel!

Cheers, Gene Heskett
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Re: [Emc-users] WTF is wrong here

2015-04-11 Thread Lester Caine
On 11/04/15 11:00, Gene Heskett wrote:
 Sounds like your next home improvement project is digging a trench
  around the house to bury some perforated pipe in gravel, with a
  geotextile lining the trench to prevent dirt infiltrating and clogging
  the gravel.
 That was done (obviously poorly or not deep enough) as project #1 when my 
 yet to be wife bought the place in '80. Supposedly the gutters drain 
 into this also, and I considered taking the sump pumps output and 
 dumping it into one of those, but its far enough away I'd have to dig 3 
 feet deep to get under the frost line and intercept it for a good 16 
 feet of run.
 
Snip the advert for bad builders :)
 
 Sometimes you have to be smarter than the average plumber employed by a 
 subdivision builder. Most aren't even qualified to run a shovel!

All sounds about par for the course ...

If access to the outside of the foundations is relatively easy then
obviously that is the way to do it right, but when there are other
restrictions preventing that ... such as the neighbours house or a
public road ... an internal solution is required, and tanking is a well
established process which can make even the wettest basement habitable.
The problem is it has to be a complete tank, but good work can recover
even basements with running water under them :)

-- 
Lester Caine - G8HFL
-
Contact - http://lsces.co.uk/wiki/?page=contact
L.S.Caine Electronic Services - http://lsces.co.uk
EnquirySolve - http://enquirysolve.com/
Model Engineers Digital Workshop - http://medw.co.uk
Rainbow Digital Media - http://rainbowdigitalmedia.co.uk

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