Re: [Emc-users] setting tool length offsets

[jrmitchellj]

I see why I had trouble.  It was easier that I emagined!

Thank you Andy!

--J. Ray Mitchell Jr.
jrmitche...@gmail.com
(818)324-7573


"Good enough is the enemy of excellence"author unknown


On Sun, Aug 16, 2020 at 12:47 PM andy pugh  wrote:

> On Sun, 16 Aug 2020 at 20:41, jrmitchellj  wrote:
> >
> > Has something changed in Master with the process of setting tool length
> > offsets?
>
> A long time ago...
>
> Assuming the Axis GUI there are now two buttons, one to touch off the
> coordinate system and one to touch off the tool.
> (Because it was so easy to forget to select "tool table" in the drop-down)
>
> --
> atp
> "A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
> designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and
> lunatics."
> — George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912
>
>
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Re: [Emc-users] found a harmonic drive set of .stl's on thingiverse

[Bruce Layne]

On 8/16/20 8:40 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:

> And it ran about 5 minutes, broke the cup of the flexgear off at the disk 
> junction. Only 1.2mm thick there, concentrating the wall flex into that 
> relatively sharp corner. Can I fix that in cura? How?

Cura should allow you to specify the number of layers.  In Simplify3D, I
can set the number of bottom layers, the number of top layers and the
number of side layers... all independently.  As Chris and I have
maintained, the outer layers largely determine part strength and the
infill doesn't.  I'm printing a small production run of structural parts
and I had the slicer use four outer layers and 20% infill.  They're very
strong ABS parts.  If I wanted rigid parts such as gears that were
resistant to impact forces or layer separation, I might specify six
outer layers, and possibly more.



> Looking at that edge with a strong lens, I see 3 layers of wall, with quite a 
> bit of air 
> too.  So I was still having plastic delivery problems even after 
> calibrating it according to Andy, where scale is set to deliver 100mm of 
> pla for a 100mm move command.

That's a good calibration method but it assumes filament that is within
specifications.  I've recently encountered some filament that I bought
on Amazon (with good reviews) that was 1.49mm in diameter instead of
1.75mm +/- .03mm.  Undersized filament will cause under extrusion.  You
should be able to compensate with a slicer setting, within reason, but
if the filament diameter is too small it may not feed reliably in some
extruders.  The software compensation can't compensate for absolute
hardware limitations.

Properly calibrated, adjacent layers of extruded filament should touch
each other.  You shouldn't be able to see any space between adjacent
layers.  The layers will typically be .4mm wide, on .4mm centers, so
they touch.  Maybe verify that your slicer knows what size nozzle you're
using.  It sounds like you've made a lot of adjustments to the settings
in Cura and in the Marlin firmware, and it would be easy to accidentally
enter a wrong value that persists and causes problems.  It might be a
good idea to return to known good values for Cura and Marlin.  The
people who have better luck 3D printing didn't need to do a lot of
configurations.



> Bruce mentioned TPU with an 85 or better shore as being more flexible but 
> I've not found that for sale anyplace. URL anybody?

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=tpu+1.75

Warning - The Priline TPU was the filament I mentioned that had an outer
diameter of 1.49mm instead of 1.75mm.  Yoyi is pretty good TPU but a bit
stringy.  The higher the durometer (Shore A value) the easier the
filament is to print because it's not as soft and stringy.  The extruder
has less trouble feeding the filament, and there are fewer problems with
stringy parts.  Each brand of TPU is different, but I generally use the
following slicer settings for TPU:

1500 mm/minute for all motion
220C nozzle temperature
No retraction
25% speed for the first layer, no cooling fan, 60C bed temperature.
100% speed for all subsequent layers, 100% cooling fan speed, 50C bed
temperature
Avoid crossing outer perimeter





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Re: [Emc-users] found a harmonic drive set of .stl's on thingiverse

[Gene Heskett]

On Sunday 16 August 2020 18:41:50 Gene Heskett wrote:

> On Sunday 16 August 2020 18:24:03 John Dammeyer wrote:
> > -Original Message-
> >
> > > From: Gene Heskett [mailto:ghesk...@shentel.net]
> > >
> > > > Mine's a CSTAR P802M bought back in December 2015.  Has problems
> > > > but overall is like my table saw.  I go up to it.  Turn it on.
> > > > Use it. Turn it off.  I've probably printed almost 1000 parts of
> > > > various types with it now.
> > > >
> > > > I added a glass plate and underneath placed an insulating pad
> > > > bought at Home Depot used for preventing burning wood when
> > > > soldering water pipes.
> > > >
> > > > This is what it looks like.
> > > > https://www.banggood.com/TRONXY-P802M-DIY-3D-Printer-Kit-220+220
> > > >+2 40mm
> > > > -Printing-Size-Support-Off-line-Print-1_75mm-0_4mm-p-1149546.htm
> > > >l? akmCl ientCountry=CA&_warehouse=CN
> > >
> > > Looks a hair better than an Ender 3 Pro, with dual z motors. Looks
> > > like the extruder motor is in the carriage?  I like that too. I
> > > don't like the spool sitting on the table though.  And at that
> > > price, I might get one anyway.
> >
> > There are two philosophies with 3D printing.  One is you move the
> > extruder motor around with additional mass and vibration for short
> > motors. The other is the Bordon tube where the motors push through
> > the feed tube.
> >
> > Vibration verses a certain amount of flex in the supply tube that
> > then results in spring tension.  So when you don't want to print you
> > have to retract much further or it oozes out as the Bordon tube
> > relaxes. Then when it's time to extrude the first bit of filament
> > flexes the tube again before it starts applying pressure into the
> > nozzle.
> >
> > The other major problem with mine, which others have fixed and I
> > still need to, is as the extruder moves up it vibrates the sides. 
> > Others have built extensive bracing holding the top solid in 3
> > dimensions so it cannot move.
> >
> > One friend changed to a higher end unit and hasn't looked back. 
> > I'll ask him what he bought.
> >
> > I expect garbage from my 3D printer so if I get something that looks
> > half decently nice I'm pleasantly surprised.  So it's all about
> > expectations and mine are much lower than most.
> >
> > For example I printed this from 4 pieces and glued it together so I
> > could see what the final version would look like and if I had fit
> > issues.  LinuxCNC has no trouble driving the STMBL to turn this.
> > http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/HarmonicDrive/FullSize-6.jpg
> >
> > Then I went back to the CAD system and expanded for shrinkage and
> > added fillets etc to be able to make a pattern.  Still in 4 pieces.
> >
> > http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/HarmonicDrive/PrintedPattern.jpg
> >
> > A bit of body filler
> > http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/HarmonicDrive/PatternPrep-1.jpg
> > primer
> > http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/HarmonicDrive/PatternPrep-2.jpg
> > and paint
> > http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/HarmonicDrive/PatternPrep-3.jpg
> > and then a test ramming into a crucible while I continued with
> > building a crucible capable of holding 15 lbs of aluminium.
> > http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/HarmonicDrive/Pulled-1.jpg
> >
> > And then there were these.
> > http://www.autoartisans.com/images/HeartsInGym2.jpg
> >
> > I printed 300 clips that held the GE-35 RGB Christmas lights in the
> > heart frames.  The hearts showed a gold colour with random twinkles
> > in white (like silver sparkles).  On the far left is a small box
> > with 50 LEDs in the same pattern and an ESTOP button modified to not
> > have the latch.  Press the button and all 6 hearts changed to a
> > pulsating RED in the rhythm of a heart beat.  bmp BMP, bmp BMP...
> > for about 40 seconds.  Time for the bride and groom to find each
> > other and kiss. Like tinkling glasses during dinner.
> >
> > Then back to gold with white sparkles.  The hearts themselves were
> > 1/8" mahogany stiffened with frames for hanging and covered in gold
> > mylar.  I now really dislike spray glue...
> >
> > 3D printing is great where you can't do something any other way. 
> > What I have found though is it's like a drug.  The end result people
> > become like someone who only owns a hammer and everything looks like
> > a nail.
> >
> > John Dammeyer
>
> There is that too. I went back to check on it, and from the evidence.
> the heat of the motor wasn't excessive. But the motor shaft has spun
> itself loose in the bearing carrier. So the motor was still spinning
> buteverything was motionless. Now I take it apart to verify since this
> model has no portholes to see into it.
>
> Sigh...

No, the flexgear broke.  Replaced it with a spare from the first ever 
build, now back to running it again.  This gear was made before the hot 
end freezeups started, so has plenty of plastic in it, but it was made 
face down so had 2 oz of supports to break out.  We'll see how long this 
one lasts.  After the 

Re: [Emc-users] found a harmonic drive set of .stl's on thingiverse

[Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users]

The nozzle and heat break have to be screwed into the heater block and 
tightened while it's hot. Do that when it's all cold and thermal expansion of 
the block loosens up the parts and it leaks.

On Sunday, August 16, 2020, 6:27:12 AM MDT, Gene Heskett 
 wrote:  
 On Saturday 15 August 2020 09:05:48 Gene Heskett wrote:

> Slim chance I might get the rest of the screws I need later today.

I did, almost, get enough screws to put one together & take it for a 
spin. Screw lengths very critical. Works but the motor only has enough 
torque to turn it at over 2.5 amps/coil drive.  But that will get the 
motor hot enough to soften the plastic in about 15 minutes so I quit at 
about 5.

Now the 64k$ question is, it is worth building an air cooled shaft 
extension to isolate these from the motor heat?  I'll have to think on 
that. I've been thru hell with this printer and anything I need is 3-5 
weeks away.  The whole hot end of it is a pisspoor design, leaking hot 
plastic out thru the nozzles threads. Or anyplace else. The si sock on 
it is dragging on the work as its filled up, now that its cooled, with 
about an eighth of and inch of solidified plastic from the leakage.  Its 
also ripped up from the leaking PLA glueing it to the hot end, and 
damaging it during removal.  The final fix might be a strip of teflon 
pipe tape on the nozzles threads, but that would have to be done to 
brand new, clean parts I don't have.  
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Re: [Emc-users] found a harmonic drive set of .stl's on thingiverse

[Gene Heskett]

On Sunday 16 August 2020 18:24:03 John Dammeyer wrote:

> -Original Message-
>
> > From: Gene Heskett [mailto:ghesk...@shentel.net]
> >
> > > Mine's a CSTAR P802M bought back in December 2015.  Has problems
> > > but overall is like my table saw.  I go up to it.  Turn it on. Use
> > > it. Turn it off.  I've probably printed almost 1000 parts of
> > > various types with it now.
> > >
> > > I added a glass plate and underneath placed an insulating pad
> > > bought at Home Depot used for preventing burning wood when
> > > soldering water pipes.
> > >
> > > This is what it looks like.
> > > https://www.banggood.com/TRONXY-P802M-DIY-3D-Printer-Kit-220+220+2
> > >40mm
> > > -Printing-Size-Support-Off-line-Print-1_75mm-0_4mm-p-1149546.html?
> > >akmCl ientCountry=CA&_warehouse=CN
> >
> > Looks a hair better than an Ender 3 Pro, with dual z motors. Looks
> > like the extruder motor is in the carriage?  I like that too. I
> > don't like the spool sitting on the table though.  And at that
> > price, I might get one anyway.
>
> There are two philosophies with 3D printing.  One is you move the
> extruder motor around with additional mass and vibration for short
> motors. The other is the Bordon tube where the motors push through the
> feed tube.
>
> Vibration verses a certain amount of flex in the supply tube that then
> results in spring tension.  So when you don't want to print you have
> to retract much further or it oozes out as the Bordon tube relaxes. 
> Then when it's time to extrude the first bit of filament flexes the
> tube again before it starts applying pressure into the nozzle.
>
> The other major problem with mine, which others have fixed and I still
> need to, is as the extruder moves up it vibrates the sides.  Others
> have built extensive bracing holding the top solid in 3 dimensions so
> it cannot move.
>
> One friend changed to a higher end unit and hasn't looked back.  I'll
> ask him what he bought.
>
> I expect garbage from my 3D printer so if I get something that looks
> half decently nice I'm pleasantly surprised.  So it's all about
> expectations and mine are much lower than most.
>
> For example I printed this from 4 pieces and glued it together so I
> could see what the final version would look like and if I had fit
> issues.  LinuxCNC has no trouble driving the STMBL to turn this.
> http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/HarmonicDrive/FullSize-6.jpg
>
> Then I went back to the CAD system and expanded for shrinkage and
> added fillets etc to be able to make a pattern.  Still in 4 pieces.
>
> http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/HarmonicDrive/PrintedPattern.jpg
>
> A bit of body filler
> http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/HarmonicDrive/PatternPrep-1.jpg
> primer
> http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/HarmonicDrive/PatternPrep-2.jpg
> and paint
> http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/HarmonicDrive/PatternPrep-3.jpg
> and then a test ramming into a crucible while I continued with
> building a crucible capable of holding 15 lbs of aluminium.
> http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/HarmonicDrive/Pulled-1.jpg
>
> And then there were these.
> http://www.autoartisans.com/images/HeartsInGym2.jpg
>
> I printed 300 clips that held the GE-35 RGB Christmas lights in the
> heart frames.  The hearts showed a gold colour with random twinkles in
> white (like silver sparkles).  On the far left is a small box with 50
> LEDs in the same pattern and an ESTOP button modified to not have the
> latch.  Press the button and all 6 hearts changed to a pulsating RED
> in the rhythm of a heart beat.  bmp BMP, bmp BMP... for about 40
> seconds.  Time for the bride and groom to find each other and kiss. 
> Like tinkling glasses during dinner.
>
> Then back to gold with white sparkles.  The hearts themselves were
> 1/8" mahogany stiffened with frames for hanging and covered in gold
> mylar.  I now really dislike spray glue...
>
> 3D printing is great where you can't do something any other way.  What
> I have found though is it's like a drug.  The end result people become
> like someone who only owns a hammer and everything looks like a nail.
>
> John Dammeyer

There is that too. I went back to check on it, and from the evidence. the 
heat of the motor wasn't excessive. But the motor shaft has spun itself 
loose in the bearing carrier. So the motor was still spinning 
buteverything was motionless. Now I take it apart to verify since this 
model has no portholes to see into it.

Sigh...

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] found a harmonic drive set of .stl's on thingiverse

[John Dammeyer]

-Original Message-
> From: Gene Heskett [mailto:ghesk...@shentel.net]
> > Mine's a CSTAR P802M bought back in December 2015.  Has problems but
> > overall is like my table saw.  I go up to it.  Turn it on. Use it.
> > Turn it off.  I've probably printed almost 1000 parts of various types
> > with it now.
> >
> > I added a glass plate and underneath placed an insulating pad bought
> > at Home Depot used for preventing burning wood when soldering water
> > pipes.
> >
> > This is what it looks like.
> > https://www.banggood.com/TRONXY-P802M-DIY-3D-Printer-Kit-220+220+240mm
> >-Printing-Size-Support-Off-line-Print-1_75mm-0_4mm-p-1149546.html?akmCl
> >ientCountry=CA&_warehouse=CN
> 
> Looks a hair better than an Ender 3 Pro, with dual z motors. Looks like
> the extruder motor is in the carriage?  I like that too. I don't like
> the spool sitting on the table though.  And at that price, I might get
> one anyway.
> 

There are two philosophies with 3D printing.  One is you move the extruder 
motor around with additional mass and vibration for short motors. The other is 
the Bordon tube where the motors push through the feed tube.

Vibration verses a certain amount of flex in the supply tube that then results 
in spring tension.  So when you don't want to print you have to retract much 
further or it oozes out as the Bordon tube relaxes.  Then when it's time to 
extrude the first bit of filament flexes the tube again before it starts 
applying pressure into the nozzle.

The other major problem with mine, which others have fixed and I still need to, 
is as the extruder moves up it vibrates the sides.  Others have built extensive 
bracing holding the top solid in 3 dimensions so it cannot move.

One friend changed to a higher end unit and hasn't looked back.  I'll ask him 
what he bought.

I expect garbage from my 3D printer so if I get something that looks half 
decently nice I'm pleasantly surprised.  So it's all about expectations and 
mine are much lower than most.

For example I printed this from 4 pieces and glued it together so I could see 
what the final version would look like and if I had fit issues.  LinuxCNC has 
no trouble driving the STMBL to turn this.  
http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/HarmonicDrive/FullSize-6.jpg

Then I went back to the CAD system and expanded for shrinkage and added fillets 
etc to be able to make a pattern.  Still in 4 pieces.

http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/HarmonicDrive/PrintedPattern.jpg

A bit of body filler 
http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/HarmonicDrive/PatternPrep-1.jpg
primer 
http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/HarmonicDrive/PatternPrep-2.jpg 
and paint
http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/HarmonicDrive/PatternPrep-3.jpg
and then a test ramming into a crucible while I continued with building a 
crucible capable of holding 15 lbs of aluminium.
http://www.autoartisans.com/mill/HarmonicDrive/Pulled-1.jpg

And then there were these.
http://www.autoartisans.com/images/HeartsInGym2.jpg
 
I printed 300 clips that held the GE-35 RGB Christmas lights in the heart 
frames.  The hearts showed a gold colour with random twinkles in white (like 
silver sparkles).  On the far left is a small box with 50 LEDs in the same 
pattern and an ESTOP button modified to not have the latch.  Press the button 
and all 6 hearts changed to a pulsating RED in the rhythm of a heart beat.  bmp 
BMP, bmp BMP... for about 40 seconds.  Time for the bride and groom to find 
each other and kiss.  Like tinkling glasses during dinner.

Then back to gold with white sparkles.  The hearts themselves were 1/8" 
mahogany stiffened with frames for hanging and covered in gold mylar.  I now 
really dislike spray glue...

3D printing is great where you can't do something any other way.  What I have 
found though is it's like a drug.  The end result people become like someone 
who only owns a hammer and everything looks like a nail.

John Dammeyer
 





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Re: [Emc-users] found a harmonic drive set of .stl's on thingiverse

[Gene Heskett]

On Sunday 16 August 2020 15:21:24 John Dammeyer wrote:

> > From: Gene Heskett [mailto:ghesk...@shentel.net]
> >
> > On Sunday 16 August 2020 11:57:31 John Dammeyer wrote:
> > > What type of 3D printer did you buy?
> >
> > A Creality Ender 3 Pro. Quite highly recommended.
>
> Mine's a CSTAR P802M bought back in December 2015.  Has problems but
> overall is like my table saw.  I go up to it.  Turn it on. Use it.
> Turn it off.  I've probably printed almost 1000 parts of various types
> with it now.
>
> I added a glass plate and underneath placed an insulating pad bought
> at Home Depot used for preventing burning wood when soldering water
> pipes.
>
> This is what it looks like.
> https://www.banggood.com/TRONXY-P802M-DIY-3D-Printer-Kit-220+220+240mm
>-Printing-Size-Support-Off-line-Print-1_75mm-0_4mm-p-1149546.html?akmCl
>ientCountry=CA&_warehouse=CN

Looks a hair better than an Ender 3 Pro, with dual z motors. Looks like 
the extruder motor is in the carriage?  I like that too. I don't like 
the spool sitting on the table though.  And at that price, I might get 
one anyway.

> My POS Delta printer has two Borden tubes for the dual extruder. 
> Another reason it's called a POS.  One day I may find the time to
> finish upgrading it so it actually works.  Cost twice as much as the
> P802M and has printed something 3 times before I got fed up with it.  
> I even bought a Replicape and two different Manga screens for the
> BeagleBone but never got around to installing those either.
>
> John
>
>
>
>
>
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Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] found a harmonic drive set of .stl's on thingiverse

[Gene Heskett]

On Sunday 16 August 2020 13:51:37 Bruce Layne wrote:

> On 8/16/20 1:07 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > the guy on y-t showing a razor blade being used in a jig,
> > hopefully to get a square cut. Not having a razor blade, or the jig
> > he was using, I cut it about half a mm long and took the hot block
> > with it sticking out to a piece of 320 sandpaper and sanded it flat,
> > reversed the tubing and sanded the other end flat.
>
> The extruder on my 3D printer uses a short piece of 4mm OD PTFE tubing
> as the heat break between the hot end and the cold end.  This part
> needs to be replaced when clearing a clogged nozzle.  I designed and
> 3D printed a miniature miter block that guides an X-Acto knife to make
> a clean perpendicular cut so I could make a pile of replacement PTFE
> tubes.

Finally, SUCCESS at making it run on minimum current and heating of the 
motor.

Seems I had the bearing carrier upside down, which placed the bearings 
too deep in the flexgear. And that raised the motor loading. Turned it 
over, which put the bearings at about the middle of the internal splines 
ring, ran it on half power for about 15 minutes to warm up the motor, 
then switched it down to minimum current, and its sitting on the kitchen 
counter doing about 30 output revs just to see how hot it gets in 2 or 4 
hours.  So all is not lost yet!  And that one has the biggest carrier I 
made in it, the other 2 are about .5mm smaller and have more backlash 
because they aren't quite bottoming the splines at max engagement.

Now that I know it can work at non-destructive temps, the project is back 
on.  Time for some din-din and make more coffee, that pot has had 2 days 
to cool.

Thanks all.
Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] found a harmonic drive set of .stl's on thingiverse

[Gene Heskett]

On Sunday 16 August 2020 13:51:37 Bruce Layne wrote:

> On 8/16/20 1:07 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > the guy on y-t showing a razor blade being used in a jig,
> > hopefully to get a square cut. Not having a razor blade, or the jig
> > he was using, I cut it about half a mm long and took the hot block
> > with it sticking out to a piece of 320 sandpaper and sanded it flat,
> > reversed the tubing and sanded the other end flat.
>
> The extruder on my 3D printer uses a short piece of 4mm OD PTFE tubing
> as the heat break between the hot end and the cold end.  This part
> needs to be replaced when clearing a clogged nozzle.  I designed and
> 3D printed a miniature miter block that guides an X-Acto knife to make
> a clean perpendicular cut so I could make a pile of replacement PTFE
> tubes.

Thats the one.  For stock E3 hot ends?  I just ordered a micro-swiss kit 
that moves the ejector to the carriage and changes the hot end design to 
kill the leakage. Better design although I think I have finally got it 
sealed, well enough it isn't spitting out plastic down the nozzles 
threads.  For about 4 hours, I have the last piece working at 300% of 
the speeds set in cura. Other than the fan vibration ripple in the 
laydown its looking good, and w/o that si rubber sock.  Slow to heat the 
ejector though, and it would not ever get to abs temps w/o that sock.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] found a harmonic drive set of .stl's on thingiverse

[Gene Heskett]

On Sunday 16 August 2020 13:07:41 Gene Heskett wrote:

> On Sunday 16 August 2020 11:57:31 John Dammeyer wrote:
> > What type of 3D printer did you buy?
>
> A Creality Ender 3 Pro. Quite highly recommended.
>
> > > -Original Message-
> > > From: Gene Heskett [mailto:ghesk...@shentel.net]
> > > Sent: August-16-20 5:24 AM
> > > To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > > Subject: Re: [Emc-users] found a harmonic drive set of .stl's on
> > > thingiverse
> > >
> > > On Saturday 15 August 2020 09:05:48 Gene Heskett wrote:
> > > > Slim chance I might get the rest of the screws I need later
> > > > today.
> > >
> > > I did, almost, get enough screws to put one together & take it for
> > > a spin. Screw lengths very critical. Works but the motor only has
> > > enough torque to turn it at over 2.5 amps/coil drive.  But that
> > > will get the motor hot enough to soften the plastic in about 15
> > > minutes so I quit at about 5.
> > >
> > > Now the 64k$ question is, it is worth building an air cooled shaft
> > > extension to isolate these from the motor heat?  I'll have to
> > > think on that. I've been thru hell with this printer and anything
> > > I need is 3-5 weeks away.  The whole hot end of it is a pisspoor
> > > design, leaking hot plastic out thru the nozzles threads. Or
> > > anyplace else. The si sock on it is dragging on the work as its
> > > filled up, now that its cooled, with about an eighth of and inch
> > > of solidified plastic from the leakage.  Its also ripped up from
> > > the leaking PLA glueing it to the hot end, and damaging it during
> > > removal.  The final fix might be a strip of teflon pipe tape on
> > > the nozzles threads, but that would have to be done to brand new,
> > > clean parts I don't have.
> > >
> > > > And thats the news from Lake Woebegon. :(
>
> I have an inquiry in at PrintedSolid.com for a bullseye hot end
> conversion kit WITH a new ptfe bowden tube, but being the weekend, no
> reply as yet. I like that design better than this one whose weak point
> is the shark bite style connection used at the top of the hot end.  No
> provision to maintain the pressure of the tube against the nozzle, so
> as the tube twists with the x motions, it gradually cuts the shark
> fingers into the plastic of the tube, and the pressure and the
> twisting wears ditches in the tube wall letting it back away from the
> rear face of the nozzle.  That lets hot plastic backup the outside of
> the tube until it cools and freezes as a big plug trapped between the
> now retracted end of the tubing and the nozzle.  And the ejector motor
> just sits there skipping steps.
>
> There is a possible fix, which consists of cutting a piece of the
> tubeing off just long enough to fill the space between the shark bite
> and the nozzle, so I've done that, and placed a teeny steel washer
> above it, so the rear of the shark bite then traps the tubing against
> the back of the nozzle, the guy on y-t showing a razor blade being
> used in a jig, hopefully to get a square cut. Not having a razor
> blade, or the jig he was using, I cut it about half a mm long and took
> the hot block with it sticking out to a piece of 320 sandpaper and
> sanded it flat, reversed the tubing and sanded the other end flat.
> This left the shark bite about 1/2 turn from tight when it was
> clamped, which I noticed was turning with the motion halfway thru the
> next part, so I took the wrench and drove it tight while it was
> printing, releasing and relocking the shark bite before restarting the
> next part. But the silicon rubber sock on the hot block is so badly
> damaged from being filled up by hot plastic coming down past the
> nozzles threads that its no longer staying in place like it should. 
> And the shark bites grip on the long tube is on only whats inside the
> shark bite.  I don't expect it to last forever before the locking
> fingers slide off the end of the tube.
>
> Hence the query about the bullseye hot end conversion kit. Guessing
> about half the cost of a new printer. I asked for a meter of the
> teflon tubing and some spare nozzles since thats a different design.
> Includes a new cooling fan, mine is rattling its cage as I broke a
> blade off trying to clear a dust bunny from it while it was running.
>
And I wound up buying a micro swiss hot end, it moves the ejector motor 
to the hot end carriage too, but doesn't replace my broken fan. All 
joints are cold in this design.

As a side note, I have it doing the last of 3 output shafts that actually 
are a press fit in the main bearing, running without the silicon sock on 
the hot block. When this is done, I've dialed it up to 300% speed, seems 
to be doing ok. I'll measure the DC psu, as enders were made in both 12 
and 24 volt versions, and I can't find a voltage marked anyplace, and I 
need to buy fans that match the voltage.  I suspect, from the heavy 
gauge of the output cable that its a 12 volt model.

> Cheers, Gene Heskett


Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are 

Re: [Emc-users] setting tool length offsets

[andy pugh]

On Sun, 16 Aug 2020 at 20:41, jrmitchellj  wrote:
>
> Has something changed in Master with the process of setting tool length
> offsets?

A long time ago...

Assuming the Axis GUI there are now two buttons, one to touch off the
coordinate system and one to touch off the tool.
(Because it was so easy to forget to select "tool table" in the drop-down)

-- 
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and
lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1912


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[Emc-users] setting tool length offsets

[jrmitchellj]

Has something changed in Master with the process of setting tool length
offsets?

I am not seeing the "Tool Table" option in the touch off dialog.
Or am I just doing something out of order?

load first tool with t1 m6 g43, og to reference point, set g54 to zero
load next tool with  t2 m6 g43, move to reference point, open touch off
dialog, no tool table option.

What am I doing wrong?

--J. Ray Mitchell Jr.
jrmitche...@gmail.com
(818)324-7573


"Good enough is the enemy of excellence"author unknown

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Re: [Emc-users] found a harmonic drive set of .stl's on thingiverse

[John Dammeyer]

> From: Gene Heskett [mailto:ghesk...@shentel.net]
> On Sunday 16 August 2020 11:57:31 John Dammeyer wrote:
> 
> > What type of 3D printer did you buy?
> A Creality Ender 3 Pro. Quite highly recommended.
> 

Mine's a CSTAR P802M bought back in December 2015.  Has problems but overall is 
like my table saw.  I go up to it.  Turn it on. Use it. Turn it off.  I've 
probably printed almost 1000 parts of various types with it now.

I added a glass plate and underneath placed an insulating pad bought at Home 
Depot used for preventing burning wood when soldering water pipes.   

This is what it looks like.
https://www.banggood.com/TRONXY-P802M-DIY-3D-Printer-Kit-220+220+240mm-Printing-Size-Support-Off-line-Print-1_75mm-0_4mm-p-1149546.html?akmClientCountry=CA&_warehouse=CN

My POS Delta printer has two Borden tubes for the dual extruder.  Another 
reason it's called a POS.  One day I may find the time to finish upgrading it 
so it actually works.  Cost twice as much as the P802M and has printed 
something 3 times before I got fed up with it.   I even bought a Replicape and 
two different Manga screens for the BeagleBone but never got around to 
installing those either.

John





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Re: [Emc-users] found a harmonic drive set of .stl's on thingiverse

[Bruce Layne]

On 8/16/20 1:07 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> the guy on y-t showing a razor blade being used in a jig, 
> hopefully to get a square cut. Not having a razor blade, or the jig he 
> was using, I cut it about half a mm long and took the hot block with it 
> sticking out to a piece of 320 sandpaper and sanded it flat, reversed 
> the tubing and sanded the other end flat.

The extruder on my 3D printer uses a short piece of 4mm OD PTFE tubing
as the heat break between the hot end and the cold end.  This part needs
to be replaced when clearing a clogged nozzle.  I designed and 3D
printed a miniature miter block that guides an X-Acto knife to make a
clean perpendicular cut so I could make a pile of replacement PTFE tubes.



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Re: [Emc-users] Machmaker USB -> Parallel

[Bari]

On 8/15/20 8:40 PM, John Dammeyer wrote:


From: Bari [mailto:bari00...@gmail.com]
I was not arguing just for the sake of arguing. I'm trying to nail down
what exactly the other idea is with LinuxCNC and microcontroller and who
will work on it.


Dave Matthews posted about the USB to Parallel dongle.  That's the start of 
this thread.  Along the way it kind of went here and there.



Please let me know when you have a block diagram of the new system 
design. Which toolkit will you use for creating all the GUI's?




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Re: [Emc-users] found a harmonic drive set of .stl's on thingiverse

[Gene Heskett]

On Sunday 16 August 2020 11:57:31 John Dammeyer wrote:

> What type of 3D printer did you buy?
A Creality Ender 3 Pro. Quite highly recommended.

> > -Original Message-
> > From: Gene Heskett [mailto:ghesk...@shentel.net]
> > Sent: August-16-20 5:24 AM
> > To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> > Subject: Re: [Emc-users] found a harmonic drive set of .stl's on
> > thingiverse
> >
> > On Saturday 15 August 2020 09:05:48 Gene Heskett wrote:
> > > Slim chance I might get the rest of the screws I need later today.
> >
> > I did, almost, get enough screws to put one together & take it for a
> > spin. Screw lengths very critical. Works but the motor only has
> > enough torque to turn it at over 2.5 amps/coil drive.  But that will
> > get the motor hot enough to soften the plastic in about 15 minutes
> > so I quit at about 5.
> >
> > Now the 64k$ question is, it is worth building an air cooled shaft
> > extension to isolate these from the motor heat?  I'll have to think
> > on that. I've been thru hell with this printer and anything I need
> > is 3-5 weeks away.  The whole hot end of it is a pisspoor design,
> > leaking hot plastic out thru the nozzles threads. Or anyplace else.
> > The si sock on it is dragging on the work as its filled up, now that
> > its cooled, with about an eighth of and inch of solidified plastic
> > from the leakage.  Its also ripped up from the leaking PLA glueing
> > it to the hot end, and damaging it during removal.  The final fix
> > might be a strip of teflon pipe tape on the nozzles threads, but
> > that would have to be done to brand new, clean parts I don't have.
> >
> > > And thats the news from Lake Woebegon. :(
I have an inquiry in at PrintedSolid.com for a bullseye hot end 
conversion kit WITH a new ptfe bowden tube, but being the weekend, no 
reply as yet. I like that design better than this one whose weak point 
is the shark bite style connection used at the top of the hot end.  No 
provision to maintain the pressure of the tube against the nozzle, so as 
the tube twists with the x motions, it gradually cuts the shark fingers 
into the plastic of the tube, and the pressure and the twisting wears 
ditches in the tube wall letting it back away from the rear face of the 
nozzle.  That lets hot plastic backup the outside of the tube until it 
cools and freezes as a big plug trapped between the now retracted end of 
the tubing and the nozzle.  And the ejector motor just sits there 
skipping steps.

There is a possible fix, which consists of cutting a piece of the tubeing 
off just long enough to fill the space between the shark bite and the 
nozzle, so I've done that, and placed a teeny steel washer above it, so 
the rear of the shark bite then traps the tubing against the back of the 
nozzle, the guy on y-t showing a razor blade being used in a jig, 
hopefully to get a square cut. Not having a razor blade, or the jig he 
was using, I cut it about half a mm long and took the hot block with it 
sticking out to a piece of 320 sandpaper and sanded it flat, reversed 
the tubing and sanded the other end flat. This left the shark bite about 
1/2 turn from tight when it was clamped, which I noticed was turning 
with the motion halfway thru the next part, so I took the wrench and 
drove it tight while it was printing, releasing and relocking the shark 
bite before restarting the next part. But the silicon rubber sock on the 
hot block is so badly damaged from being filled up by hot plastic coming 
down past the nozzles threads that its no longer staying in place like 
it should.  And the shark bites grip on the long tube is on only whats 
inside the shark bite.  I don't expect it to last forever before the 
locking fingers slide off the end of the tube.

Hence the query about the bullseye hot end conversion kit. Guessing about 
half the cost of a new printer. I asked for a meter of the teflon tubing 
and some spare nozzles since thats a different design. Includes a new 
cooling fan, mine is rattling its cage as I broke a blade off trying to 
clear a dust bunny from it while it was running.

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] found a harmonic drive set of .stl's on thingiverse

[John Dammeyer]

What type of 3D printer did you buy?

> -Original Message-
> From: Gene Heskett [mailto:ghesk...@shentel.net]
> Sent: August-16-20 5:24 AM
> To: emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
> Subject: Re: [Emc-users] found a harmonic drive set of .stl's on thingiverse
> 
> On Saturday 15 August 2020 09:05:48 Gene Heskett wrote:
> 
> > Slim chance I might get the rest of the screws I need later today.
> 
> I did, almost, get enough screws to put one together & take it for a
> spin. Screw lengths very critical. Works but the motor only has enough
> torque to turn it at over 2.5 amps/coil drive.  But that will get the
> motor hot enough to soften the plastic in about 15 minutes so I quit at
> about 5.
> 
> Now the 64k$ question is, it is worth building an air cooled shaft
> extension to isolate these from the motor heat?  I'll have to think on
> that. I've been thru hell with this printer and anything I need is 3-5
> weeks away.  The whole hot end of it is a pisspoor design, leaking hot
> plastic out thru the nozzles threads. Or anyplace else. The si sock on
> it is dragging on the work as its filled up, now that its cooled, with
> about an eighth of and inch of solidified plastic from the leakage.  Its
> also ripped up from the leaking PLA glueing it to the hot end, and
> damaging it during removal.  The final fix might be a strip of teflon
> pipe tape on the nozzles threads, but that would have to be done to
> brand new, clean parts I don't have.
> 
> > And thats the news from Lake Woebegon. :(
> 
> Cheers, Gene Heskett
> --
> "There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
>  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
> -Ed Howdershelt (Author)
> If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
>  - Louis D. Brandeis
> Genes Web page 
> 
> 
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Re: [Emc-users] found a harmonic drive set of .stl's on thingiverse

[Gene Heskett]

On Saturday 15 August 2020 09:05:48 Gene Heskett wrote:

> Slim chance I might get the rest of the screws I need later today.

I did, almost, get enough screws to put one together & take it for a 
spin. Screw lengths very critical. Works but the motor only has enough 
torque to turn it at over 2.5 amps/coil drive.  But that will get the 
motor hot enough to soften the plastic in about 15 minutes so I quit at 
about 5.

Now the 64k$ question is, it is worth building an air cooled shaft 
extension to isolate these from the motor heat?  I'll have to think on 
that. I've been thru hell with this printer and anything I need is 3-5 
weeks away.  The whole hot end of it is a pisspoor design, leaking hot 
plastic out thru the nozzles threads. Or anyplace else. The si sock on 
it is dragging on the work as its filled up, now that its cooled, with 
about an eighth of and inch of solidified plastic from the leakage.  Its 
also ripped up from the leaking PLA glueing it to the hot end, and 
damaging it during removal.  The final fix might be a strip of teflon 
pipe tape on the nozzles threads, but that would have to be done to 
brand new, clean parts I don't have.

> And thats the news from Lake Woebegon. :(

Cheers, Gene Heskett
-- 
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
 - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page 


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