Re: [Emc-users] Tap size

[Cristian Bontas]

Hi

Shank diameter 5.9 or 6.2 (near the square, thinner near the thread)
Square size 4.75 to 4.85 mm

But I've had ones with smaller shanks and/or heads.

On 12/9/2021 22:56, johnd wrote:

Mini surveyIf you have an M6 x1.0 tap in your tool box what is the shank and 
flat dimension?Sent from my Samsung S10
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Re: [Emc-users] Something went wrong.

[Cristian Bontas]

Hi

I would do it about the same way you did it first, with a few changes.

First, clamp it as high as possible on the vertical part. Get rid of the 
cylinder, or if the vise is not clamping properly without, use a thinner 
one (say 6-8 mm diameter) placed as close to the upper lip as possible.


Support the horizontal part. Assuming the top of the vise below the 
overhanging part is flat and horizontal, make a small block to support 
it. Clamping the part would start with pressing it on this block, then 
tightening the vise. Make a long clamp to press down on the part over 
the block - might need to use two screws on either side of the vise. 
Place a bit of Al or Cu wire between the part and the clamp, as at this 
length it will bend. Machine the part in several cuts, so that you can 
move the clamp and support block so that they don't interfere with the 
cutter and its holder.


On 8/4/2021 00:27, John Dammeyer wrote:

That's a good suggestion John F.  Thanks.  I did do some more playing around 
and it's clear the part flexing and the backlash both were at fault especially 
with the plunge to the next depth.

And that brings up another issue.  One of my pet peeves with electronics 
project magazines is they are great at a schematic and either point to point 
wired or PC board but very little energy is spent on describing various ways of 
mounting or installing in a cabinet.  Especially with the concept of Human 
Factor Engineering which is the practice of making something easy to use or 
even intuitive.  Like an ESTOP button is always a red mushroom  Not a toggle 
switch.

Same goes with work holding.  Youtube has tons of videos that show a tiring 
sequence of a milling cutter sprayed with coolant making chips for 3 minutes 
with 3 commercials interjected, one every minute.   But very little on work 
holding.

The next part I am making is shown in the attached screen shot rendering.  My 
raw material is in the second photo.  So the question is about work holding and 
how or what features of LinuxCNC can be used to make this easier.

I can use my band saw to create the initial width and split it into two L shapes.  
But after that I start to have problems, due to lack of experience I think, on how 
to firmly hold it and mill the stuff with a 5mm and  6.35mm (1/4") cutter.

Suggestions?

Thanks
John



-Original Message-
From: John Figie [mailto:zephyr9...@gmail.com]
Sent: August-03-21 11:59 AM
To: Enhanced Machine Controller (EMC)
Subject: Re: [Emc-users] Something went wrong.

Speaking of backlash. My tiered old Bridgeport has about 0.002" of backlash
in the ballscrews. So if circular interpolation is used there is a small
bump at each 90 degrees of the circle. But if I make the finish pass first
clockwise and then repeat counter clockwise the imperfections are much
smaller. I know from experience with my first CNC machine that's built that
actually used leadscrews with lots of backlash the clockwise followed by
counter clockwise method was remarkable compared to a single direction
final pass.

John

On Tue, Aug 3, 2021, 10:10 AM jrmitchellj  wrote:


You might try the run again without the backlash compensation in LCNC to
get a feel of what it is actually doing.


--J. Ray Mitchell Jr.


�I predict future happiness for Americans, if they can prevent the
government from wasting the labors of the people under the pretense of
taking care of them.�

THOMAS JEFFERSON


On Tue, Aug 3, 2021 at 6:24 AM Gene Heskett  wrote:


On Tuesday 03 August 2021 05:31:56 andy pugh wrote:


On Tue, 3 Aug 2021 at 07:58, 

wrote:

I draw all this from my own ballscrew conversion of my own mill,
some 20 years ago. If I was doing it again, I would use two nuts,
with spring tension between the pair

Springs might not be the best way. The common way to tension double
nuts is to (basically) screw them into each other and lock the angular
relationship.

You _can_ get preloaded single nuts, using oversized balls. That only
works if the ball track is the right shape, though, it needs to be a
4-point contact shape.

Which I'd suspect as being subject to rapid initial wear until it was
just a normal screw with about a thou of backlash.

For me, I bought C7 grade which may have 2 thou but in several years has
not gotten significantly worse. Protecting the screw from contaminants
is the most important thing for long life. On my Sheldon, the Z screw, a
1450mm long 25mm C7, got sealed bearings on both ends, a collar to clamp
a bellows to on both ends of both sections, and 2 of the 6 mounting
holes in the nut were drilled all the way thru so air could get from one
side of the nut to the other as the nut moved. The nut gets one pump of
grease a year. Backlash, some of which is in the end bearing, was about
1.9 thou 5 years ago and still is. It has not been uncovered in that
time. I don't have a bellows on the x screw but its channel in the
carriage is sealed top and bottom unless the carriage is clear in.
exposing the screw behind 

Re: [Emc-users] An interesting coupling.

[Cristian Bontas]

Interesting idea, thanks!

On 7/14/2021 23:41, andy pugh wrote:

 From the 19-teens, this magneto drive shaft uses a bolt as both an
adjusting worm and a clamp.
https://hmvf.co.uk/topic/39451-another-j-type-on-the-way/?do=findComment=480329
This might be an interesting idea for squaring a single-motor gantry,
and 101 other uses around the home.

There is _also_ a vernier coupling, which is something that I have
used on preload nuts, where the number of slots in the two parts are
different:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zGsMjEiuENhUoxPAA
(Yes, there is definitely something wrong with the _execution_ there,
but the idea is sound.)




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Re: [Emc-users] Mounting spindle sensors.

[Cristian Bontas]

The angle iron would only provide a base for mounting the sensors. The 
vertical part could be used for cable clamps, so that the cables are 
directed down (relative to the position in the picture), not radially.


The sensors would be positioned in an arc, of course, not aligned to the 
straight edge.


Since you already have the CNC mill working, making the arc/crescent 
shape (your original design) out of say 2 mm sheet metal would not be a 
problem.


But I would not bother welding the parts, I don't see any benefit to that.

As for ease of positioning the thing, I'd make the inner edge of the 
metal say 1 mm larger radius than the wheel. At assembly I'd use a piece 
of 1 mm thick flexible plastic (with slots for the sensors if needed) 
between them, keep it pressed, tighten the bolts. Any play (in the ends, 
around the bolts) would arrange in an angular offset, which is irrelevant.


On 6/30/2021 09:56, John Dammeyer wrote:

From: Cristian Bontas [mailto:cristianbonta...@gmail.com]
Hi

I'd go for something similar to the picture, but simpler.

Make the two cylinders and use a piece of angle iron for the sensor support.

Two holes for the bolts to go through. Offset so that the side of the
angle that is parallel to the shaft (and the bolts) clears the outside
of the round casting. Grind/cut from the middle of the other side of the
iron to clear said casting. Or make the cylinders the right height so
that the side of the angle iron fits between the flange (on top of the
casting) and the disc.

On 6/30/2021 00:31, John Dammeyer wrote:

I often have trouble coming up with simple solutions.


Thanks Christian,
Making the two cylinders is pretty easy.  The only problem with the straight 
angle is that the sensors have to be mounted in an arc around the disk.  Since 
I have the CNC mill,  cutting out the top section with the right profile 
wouldn't be hard.  I also have a 3:1 shear/brake/roller and a heavier duty ring 
roller so I could in effect make my own angle iron but curved after the bending 
and welding.

In fact a friend suggested I model the whole thing with the 3D printer.  The 
attached photo is what I did for my Gingery Lathe but time constraints mean 
it's still at that point where the BeagleBone, Machinekit and the Xylotex Cape 
are back in the kennel.   As yet haven't had a chance to get to the point where 
it's all working.

  John



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Re: [Emc-users] Mounting spindle sensors.

[Cristian Bontas]

Hi

I'd go for something similar to the picture, but simpler.

Make the two cylinders and use a piece of angle iron for the sensor support.

Two holes for the bolts to go through. Offset so that the side of the 
angle that is parallel to the shaft (and the bolts) clears the outside 
of the round casting. Grind/cut from the middle of the other side of the 
iron to clear said casting. Or make the cylinders the right height so 
that the side of the angle iron fits between the flange (on top of the 
casting) and the disc.


On 6/30/2021 00:31, John Dammeyer wrote:

I often have trouble coming up with simple solutions.
  
Attached the photo of my encoder disk made from aluminium so slotted or reflective sensors would be required.  My first idea of a clamp around the casting to hold the sensors really didn't work out.
  
The bolts holding the upper casting down are 10x1.5-35mm bolts and there's a flat machined area in the casting for the lock washer and bolt head.  It's really hard to determine exactly what the bolt circle is but a guess of 120mm between bolts creates roughly 84.8 radius circle.
  
What if I turned out two spacers? Clamped them in place and then welded a bracket to them.  Or even just a curved piece with much larger holes clamped down to allow some tweaking for fit.  Then maybe spot weld in place with final welding off the machine.
  
Then on this plate mounted the sensors.
  
Good idea?  Or also doomed to failure?
  

  
Thanks

John Dammeyer
  
  
"ELS! Nothing else works as well for your Lathe"

Automation Artisans Inc.
www dot autoartisans dot com
  




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Re: [Emc-users] Machining question

[Cristian Bontas]

Hi

The way I see the picture, you have quite a few microns of play only in 
the roughness of the hole.


Using the screws that way amplifies the problem, as is pushes all the 
error to one side.


I think the best option is to buy an elastic coupling. Ideally one that 
fits both sizes, but just one and machining the other should work too.


But, if you want to do it in one piece. First, get as tight a fit as 
possible, without removing the piece from the chuck. Drill 8.5 - 9 mm, 
ream to 3/8'', expand half to 14 mm. Then either split it radially on 
one side and add a couple of tangential screws (so that is closes on the 
center, not one side), or put 3 screws at 120 deg on each shaft, and 
adjust until removing the runout.



On 6/18/2021 18:49, John Dammeyer wrote:

This isn't as much a LinuxCNC question but more of an approach to how to 
machine something.
  
The attached photo shows a coupler from a 3/8" encoder to 14mm Servo Motor so I can test on the bench the Pi4 closed loop encoder behavior.
  
This one didn't turn out very well.  I drilled all the way through and then used a reamer to bring it to 3/8".  It's a firm sliding fit on the encoder shaft.  Without removing it from the chuck I then drilled halfway to 13mm and then used a 14mm reamer to bring it to size, testing with the motor shaft.
  
Problem was the reamer was slightly tapered at the front so it did a poor job.  I finished it up with the boring tool but maybe a few thou too large.  However the wobble seems much worse than that.
  
I'm thinking the better approach would be to drill all the way through undersize 3/8" and then drill half way with 13mm.  Then only use the boring tool to bring the back half up to 3/8" and the front up to 14mm.  This way if the initial hole wasn't concentric with rotation the boring tool would ensure it is.
  
Make sense?  Or is there a better way?
  
Thanks

John
  



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Re: [Emc-users] Spindle Control

[Cristian Bontas]

router mill, 2.2 kW water-cooled spindle, VFD (Huanyang clone)

driven by LinuxCNC, through RS432

On 6/13/2021 22:49, John Dammeyer wrote:

Quick little survey on what everyone has on their machine for spindle control.
  
1. Do you have a VFD on a 3 phase motor for Lathe or Mill.
  
2. Does the CNC controller drive the spindle or do you set the speed and ON/OFF manually?
  
Just curious

John
  
  
  
"ELS! Nothing else works as well for your Lathe"

Automation Artisans Inc.
www dot autoartisans dot com
  


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Re: [Emc-users] Small spring, very simple flat

[Cristian Bontas]

150N for how much travel?

On 1/25/2021 00:11, Nicklas SB Karlsson wrote:
Need a small springs, not very many, very simple flat metal. Force in 
middle should be around 150N and guess 45mm long, 10mm wide , 0.6mm 
thick will do the trick. Anybody have any idea where it is possible to 
buy suitable material?


Have been looking on a used handsaw, probably rather good steel, it 
hit a nail anyway and would make many enough to try out it work well 
but do not have anything hand to heat it, to hard now and it to be 
hardened then cut.



Nicklas Karlsson



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Re: [Emc-users] Tool presetter

[Cristian Bontas]

Hi

I've been using a piece of soft Al plate for setting the Z zero for 
several years. I have a button in Axis that runs a Z probe and then sets 
G54 Z zero based on the known thickness of the plate.
There are no contact tool marks on the surface, and I'm using carbide 
wood cutters. Sharp enough that there are a few marks where I've 
accidentally hit the cutter when removing the plate.


On 9/4/2020 17:40, Gene Heskett wrote:

On Friday 04 September 2020 08:09:33 andy pugh wrote:


On Fri, 4 Sep 2020 at 12:37, Gene Heskett  wrote:

Raw, freshly cut alu will oxidize to a thick enough coat of
alox than can be punched thru by 5 volts in milliseconds after the
machining tool cutting edge has passed.

Where do you get this from?

Take some aluminium from your stock and your multimeter. Test this
theory.

I have, you have to press hard enough to pierce the oxide coat. Thats is
not much, but its not at all hard to take a bare wire and lay on the alu
plate without getting a connection. This oxide coat may be less
than .1" thick if fresh, but it is an insulator. Long term, as in
years or with chemical help such as an anodizing solution, it can reach
a 400 volt breakdown withstand. Insulating sheets for power transistors
with better thermal conductivity than mica or kapton have been made out
of it.

Something like 95% of the heating of an alu workpiece while machining it
is not the friction of the cutting tool, but the invisible burning
(oxidation) of the freshly exposed alu when its exposed to the oxygen in
our air.  In the presence of airborn oxygen, its a very active metal.
That oxide, seals the surface and slows the speed of the reaction by
many orders by the time the air has had access to it in the first
millisecond after the cutting edge has passed. Most coolants are water
based, but best tool life will be obtained if the cut surface is wetted
by a deluge of coolant. Its not the coolant but the instant wetting and
sealing of the air away from that cut surface even if the coolant is
H2O, but that H2O should not be agitated to encourage its oxygenation.
Even a mist, just enough to wet it, driven by enough air pressure to get
it at the alu as the tool turns on past it is a huge help, all out of
proportion to the amount of coolant in that mist. I suspect that a major
portion of the commercial coolants sold, is about a penny's worth of
kodak photoflow per gallon, making that mix many hundreds of
times "wetter". Kodak sells it (or did then) in two strengths, with the
strongest is an ounce per gallon makes it 1200 times wetter than regular
water.

I am familiar with that product because I spent from the later 40's to
the early 80's with my own color darkroom where ever I was living. I
shot weddings etc for enough to break even and keep me in supplies, even
compounded by own color print developer, substituting sodium carbonate
for the alkaline accelerator instead of the sodium hydroxide usually
used, so it was a little slower, but I could process 8 copies of a good
shot without having to chase the effects of a fading developer sitting
mixed in a 100F bath.  It was always something I could do, until digital
cameras finally replaced the SLR as the utility camera in your Aunt
Tillys hands.  It took a while to fine tune it, but that has now put
good quality, nearly archival quality digital color prints on the output
tray of several million printers today.

Cheers, Gene Heskett




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Re: [Emc-users] fighting with arcgenm18.py, again

[Cristian Bontas]

Thanks.
Yeah, polar coordinates are very handy for some jobs.

On 7/11/2020 20:26, andy pugh wrote:

On Sat, 11 Jul 2020 at 18:20, Cristian Bontas
 wrote:


What is this syntax:

G0 @32.4 ^0

Polar coordinates:
http://linuxcnc.org/docs/html/gcode/overview.html#_polar_coordinates

Very useful for hole circles or milling polygons.





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Re: [Emc-users] fighting with arcgenm18.py, again

[Cristian Bontas]

Hi

What is this syntax:

G0 @32.4 ^0


Regards,
Cristian Bontas

On 7/11/2020 18:28, andy pugh wrote:

On Sat, 11 Jul 2020 at 16:11, Gene Heskett  wrote:


I need to drill 6 holes in the face of a nema-23 adapter I'm making for a
bigger 100/1 worm drive.  That bolt circle is nominally 64.8mm in
diameter so i feed arcgenm18,py 0,0,64.8,0,60 and click show me.  The
first line of the answer is the offset, driving the machine to the
center of the first hole at 3 oclock on the circle.

There is no need for this level of complication to spiral down full circles.

; relative are centres
G91.1
; Go to first hole centre point
G0 @32.4 ^0
; offset to required radius
G91
G0 X1.1
G90
;Touch the top
G0 Z0.5
G1 F100 Z0
; Spiral down 4 mm in 8 turns
G2 Z-4 P8 I-1.1
; finish out the bottom.
G2 Z-4 I-1.1
; and next
G0 Z 10
G0 @32.4 ^30
...





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[Emc-users] large latency spike on gtk permission error

[Cristian Bontas]

Hi everyone

I am a novice (read: clueless) in Linux internals, so bear with me if I 
say something stupid.
On a fresh install of 
http://www.linuxcnc.org/iso/linuxcnc-2.7.14-wheezy.iso, on an old 
machine AMD Athlon 64. I've been using it for several years with 
LinuxCNC, worked, but wanted a newer version.
Latency stays below 7000 ns whatever I do, except if I try to run 
ksystemlog (a graphical log viewer) without sudo. As it doesn't have 
permission to access /var/log/system without sudo, it display an error 
dialog.

When the error happens, the latency spikes a lot, 25 to 70 microseconds.
Running ksystemlog with sudo does not impact the latency.
Trying to set the uid bit on the program leads to the (expected) error 
"This process is currently running setuid or setgid. GTK+ does not allow 
this therefore Qt cannot use the GTK+ integration.". Interestingly, this 
also causes the latency spike.


Of course this is not a significant issue, just something to known about 
so that I don't accidentally do it while LinuxCNC is running. But I was 
wondering if someone (who, unlike me, knows whats really going on behind 
this) might know if there is a larger group of things to avoid doing, 
because they might also cause such a latency spike. Or know what I'm 
doing wrong.


Regards, and thanks for all the work that went in creating and 
supporting LinuxCNC and this community.



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Re: [Emc-users] plug in

[Cristian Bontas]

It's not "a code block", it's http://www.codeblocks.org/, a c++ ide
His question is not related to lcnc per se.
He tried installing codeblocks on Ubuntu 16.04 and it caused "Ubuntu 
software" to stop working - presumably he means the Ubuntu Software Center.

He also tried on Ubuntu 18.04, but could not even install there.
So he ran out of ideas and asked for help.

On 7/16/2018 07:31, Chris Albertson wrote:

Could the problem here be English?  I hate to say it but the words make
little sense.  For example "code block" in Technical English means the code
between the { and the } in what we call "block structured languages"  So I
hear 'code block" and I know it is not something you can run.  It only
exists in the source code.There are other words that I can not figure
out.

Perhaps you are using a translator and it is doing a poor job.  I can't tell

If so, perhaps write a detailed description, in your native language and
let Google Translate convert that to English.  When I do this to send an
email to China I try and write every fact twice in two different ways and
provide examples as I know Google Translate is not perfect.

Do not take this the wrong way.  most people in the world don't speak
English.  I do but my Spanish and German skills are at the kindergarten
level

On Sun, Jul 15, 2018 at 8:10 PM a k  wrote:


In first email I did say that after loading software code block on ubuntu
16.04 = ubuntu software == stop work.
It stop show what software install stop show anything.

On Jul 15, 2018 5:07 PM, "Gene Heskett"  wrote:


On Sunday 15 July 2018 16:25:27 a k wrote:


i just load this http://www.codeblocks.org/
and problem start.
should such problem show up because loading program?


Perhaps you should actually define the problem? Some of us are pretty
good, given a clue or 2, but none of us are mind readers.

On Sat, Jul 14, 2018 at 12:23 PM, Chris Albertson

wrote:

First off many people can use different Linux distributions with no
issues. If you have different experience then likely it is because
of something you have done different from most others

My first guess is that if C++ code you wrote causes a problem at the
system level then likely, maybe you are running as "root".  It is
almost always a mistake.

On Sat, Jul 14, 2018 at 11:47 AM a k  wrote:

hi
interesting about operating system to where plug in different
thing like linuxcnc
plug in as good as system which it use.
i use ubuntu 16.04. very good. very easy to get to internet. what
else need?
only after i load code block ( c++ programming) instantly "Ubuntu

software"


stop working - does not open - say no software etc.
something wrong , right?
i load in ubuntu 18.04 and this release even can not be install -

computer


can not load it in.
can load 16.04 and can not load 18.04
is anyone else have similar problem?
why people that work on debian can not joint with conical software
people and deliver one system that actually work good ?
no problem pay for something that actually work . ( not as much as

windows)


just some idea.


aram



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  soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
Genes Web page 


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Re: [Emc-users] One servo system

[Cristian Bontas]

Hello
An Arduino would work I think, if the driver takes step/dir inputs then
motion is simply a pulse loop. Speed control or travel ends can be added
easily too.

On Wed, Mar 28, 2018, 18:46 Marius Liebenberg 
wrote:

> Hi all
> I have to put together a system that will use one servo to drive a small
> platform over a distance of 6m at a speed of about 25km/h or 8m/s or
> there about.
>
> I feel that using a full computer and mesa card for just one axis that
> does not need a display sounds a bit excessive. The question is what are
> the other options if any.
>
>
>
> -
> Regards / Groete
>
> Marius D. Liebenberg
> +27 82 698 3251
> +27 12 743 6064
>
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Re: [Emc-users] 240V single phase input vfd

[Cristian Bontas]

I have one that seems identical, 2.2 kW, since August 2015. Running 
flawlessly since then. Added a 50 ohm 300 W braking resistor (it really 
helps), and controlling it through modbus (the HY version of it, 
available in the standard LinuxCNC distro now) using an USB to RS 485 
adapter.
But cheaper, I got it off AliExpress for 314 USD for the package 
including 2.2 kW water cooled spindle + VFD + clamp + water pump + 13 
pieces ER 20 collets.


On 03.01.2018 18:56, andy pugh wrote:

On 3 January 2018 at 16:03, Dave Cole  wrote:


So... is anyone going to buy the $125 5 hp drive and let us know how long it
lasts before the drive goes "pop".  ;-)

I bought this one, a close relative:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/252036183460

It's been fine since August 2016, according to the date of this blog post:
http://bodgesoc.blogspot.de/2016/08/holbrook08.html




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Re: [Emc-users] OT: Chinese linear encoders

[Cristian Bontas]

I have 3 of them on my mill, but not so long, only 300 mm.
Repetability is good, about +-0.01 mm.
I don't have any means to verify accuracy at that precision over that 
distance, but I don't need it, either.


On 28.06.2017 20:20, Eric Keller wrote:

Anyone tried them?  I need a 30" encoder for my lathe.  I see ones on ebay
for <$150.  They don't seem to be differential at that price though.
I have an accurite dro, but one of the encoders isn't long enough.
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Re: [Emc-users] A phoney from Sourceforge?

[Cristian Bontas]

Got one too.
But if fake, I don't really get its purpose.
The link seems legit, and the sourceforge.net certificates are valid. 
There doesn't seem to be any URL trick, either.

So how would a third party benefit from my subscription reconfirmation?

Any ideas?

Cristian Bontas

On 10.06.2017 11:40, Marcus Bowman wrote:

Yes; I got one too.
I have been subscribed for a long time, and this is the first message of that 
kind, so I consider it spam/phishing.

Marcus

On 10 Jun 2017, at 09:00, Erik Christiansen wrote:


On 10.06.17 09:15, Peter Blodow wrote:

Hello Gentlemen,
I just got a message, seemingly from sourceforge (sourceforge at
slashdotmedia.com), litterally mentioning emc-users as my mailing list, with
the urgent wish to confirm my subscription with sourceforge, otherwise it
would be cancelled by June 29th. The link given looks somehow fishy
(starting with sourceforge.net, followed by lots of numbers and special
characters) and contains my email address at the end.

Peter, you're right, it is just phishing spam. I had one yesterday too.
Probably everyone on the list has been or will be targeted.

Its attempt to fudge the From: address was pretty pathetic:

 From 0100015c8a61ee3f-b287ce06-884f-4e3d-b422-9959bd3bbff1-000...@amazonses.com
Fri Jun 9 14:05:02 2017
From: "SourceForge.net" <noti...@slashdotmedia.com>

If your MUA doesn't show both From addresses naturally, it's worth
discovering how to tickle it when dubious.

Erik


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Re: [Emc-users] Milling setup question

[Cristian Bontas]

Hello

You could turn a cylinder that fits snugly in the large hole.
Bolt it to the machine table, somewehere to the front (towards you), so that 
the part will fit over it.
Indicate its sides so that the cutter's axis is dead-centered on it.
Lock the table, put the part over the cylinder, indicate the face made in step 
1 to be perpendicular to the cutter axis.

On 3/30/2017 14:10:50, andy pugh  wrote:
If you have a part with a large bore through the middle, how do you
set up to machine a hole exactly perpendicular to the axis of that
bore?

I imagine that this is quite a common problem, so must have a common solution?

My particular setup puzzle is analagous to this, except that I will be
using the horizontal spindle.

Machining this casting: https://goo.gl/photos/6QhNnqjzRuSJJpva7

The order of operations will be, starting with the raw casting:
1) with the large flat face clamped down to the table machine the base flat.
2) Now clamp the base to the table, face off the large flat face and
machine the large bore.
3) Return to the original setup and machine a key-slot in the base
_exactly_ on the axis of the large bore.

3) is the problem. I can indicate the base to make sure that is
perpendicular to the spindle axis, but how do I make sure that the
bore axis and the spindle axis intersect?

--
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, daredevils and
lunatics."
— George Fitch, Atlanta Constitution Newspaper, 1916

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Re: [Emc-users] Rigid Tapping

[Cristian Bontas]

If it's the first time trying rigid tapping on this machine, why not doing some 
test runs on scrap pieces of MDF first, with M6 or M8 taps?
On 11/17/2016 09:17:26, hubert  wrote:
I have a step and Direction driven AC Servo spindle with encoder output
that is supposedly capable of rigid tapping. I want to tap some 1/4
inch aluminum with M3x0.5 spiral flute HSS tap. Initially I have the
spindle speed set at 150 rpm. What type of tapping cycle should I use,
Continuous, or some type of peck cycle. Also what are your
recommendations at some test trials to get the feel of the Machines
capabilities. I have on hand up to 8mm taps, should I try one of those
first. I hope not to break a tap in a part that already has time
invested in it. I know I could hand tap them, but that wouldn't give me
experience in rigid tapping.

Thanks

Hubert



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[Emc-users] season's greetings

[Cristian Bontas]

Merry Christmas everyone!
or in the native tongue:
Craciun fericit tuturor!

And may we all greet each other for many years to come.

Cristian Bontas

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[Emc-users] GO704's fat spindle is being a problem child.

[Cristian Bontas]

Hello

Have a look here for the sizes of the ER nuts (there are several versions).

http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/ER-chuck-nut-ER-collet-nut-ER-nut-ER11-50-type-A-M-UM/506241_528850800.html

For ER 20 (the smallest that can take a 1/2'' tool shank), the minimum 
diameter would be 28 mm, with a type M nut.
So from your 40 mm spindle body, that would give you an extra 6 mm of 
clearance.

With the much more common hex-head nut, the gain would be minimal - only 
3 mm.


> Greetings everybody;
>
> Thinking in electronic ink here...
>
> Is there a quick & dirty but adequate way to extend the 2 most common
> carbide bit sizes in my collection in order to gain clearance between
> the workpiece and its holding jigs? Something like an ER8 that I can
> plug into an R8 maybe?
>
> Neither seem to say what the OD of the nut is and I've
> already hit the side of the spindle against this jig when it was on the
> toy mill, whose rotating spindle nose is 40mm.


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