New lesson learned this weekend.
On Mon, Jul 28, 2014 at 10:59 PM, Michael K Johnson mcda...@gmail.com wrote:
Talking myself into doubling my 4awg welding cable for the equivalent
cross sectional area of 1awg was almost certainly overkill. Joe
Lorenzi has 8awg in his JD with the same motor,
On Mon, Aug 11, 2014 at 11:24 PM, Lee Hart leeah...@earthlink.net wrote:
Yes, you need to remove the magnetic shunts. These are rectangular blocks of
laminations tack-welded into the space between the primary and secondary.
This restores the core to a normal E-I laminated stack.
I wasn't
Cor,
How many turns did you wind? I'm assuming you removed the center
portion of the EI in order to get a rectangular shape?
Adam,
Check http://www.geepglobal.com/locations/usa/north-carolina/ if you
don't find anything high-power on craigslist.
I suppose if you need more room for wire you
Speaking as a newbie to the list (last November), I've been surprised
by the levels of invective levelled at H2. There have been a lot of
assumptions that it cannot possibly ever be efficiently produced
without a bad carbon footprint, and lots (my perception) of ad hominem
attacks. I'd like to
On Tue, Jul 29, 2014 at 1:30 PM, Lee Hart leeah...@earthlink.net wrote:
Michael K Johnson via EV wrote:
I'd seriously consider getting together with friends on a scavenged
Volt battery...
That could be fun as an experiment, but could cost more and require more
finesse to get it all to work
I got lots of useful help here on my lawn tractor conversion project —
http://www.evalbum.com/4841 — so I thought I'd post some lessons
learned, both positive and negative. None of this is intended as
advice for anyone else, for obvious reasons. I'm not doing everything
as safely as I might! This
Amps add in parallel, volts add in series.
Given your assumptions, you can put 45 of those 40Ah cells can produce
3.2v at 3600A if you arrange them in parallel, but 80 A at 144V if you
arrange them in series. But you can't have your cake and eat it too
and get 3600A at 144V...
On Thu, Jul 24,
Found an ebay listing for WRB4812S which has 36-72V input and 12V
output. Bought it. Then re-read and found that it's a 1W part and the
meter is listed at 2W. Oops. Guess I'll measure what it actually
draws; I assume that's for the relays that I don't even want to drive.
Maybe I can configure the
Well, my system floats from the frame, but lightobject responded:
: The power of the JLD404 is isolated and the ground of the
: power negative has no common to the Input ground. You do
: NOT want to common ground the power and the INPUT ground.
: Otherwise, the amp meter won't work and that is
That AH meter at lightobject looks very interesting. It doesn't say
what shunt or range of shunts it can use that I can see.
I have a buck converter that I can put on my tractor to power the
meter, but obviously I'd need to use a shunt to measure current. I
have a 50mV/500A shunt installed; do
On 05/14/2014 06:35 AM, Michael K Johnson via EV wrote:
That AH meter at lightobject looks very interesting. It doesn't say
what shunt or range of shunts it can use that I can see.
I have a buck converter that I can put on my tractor to power the
meter, but obviously I'd need to use a shunt
the only thing
I've connected to the shunt has been my good voltmeter (which has
enough accuracy and precision for the measurement to be meaningful).
On Wed, May 14, 2014 at 2:11 PM, Jan Steinman via EV ev@lists.evdl.org wrote:
From: Michael K Johnson via EV ev@lists.evdl.org
That AH meter
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