Re: [EVDL] EV Digest, Vol 19, Issue 44

2014-05-31 Thread Lee Hart via EV
jerry freedomev via EV wrote: I've used for many EVs just a 2 length of solid copper wire sized right for the load [as a fuse]. Higher voltage, use longer. Using SS bolt/nuts as terminals and support with distance and something to catch the molten metal if it blows. That works! :-) A fuse is

Re: [EVDL] EV Digest, Vol 19, Issue 44

2014-05-29 Thread Jan Steinman via EV
From: Cor van de Water via EV ev@lists.evdl.org Common wisdom puts a pack fuse in the battery box before cables exit... My EV that was converted around 1995 by a now defunct converter company, has no overcurrent protection on the battery pack... any event that would create a short

Re: [EVDL] EV Digest, Vol 19, Issue 44

2014-05-29 Thread John Lussmyer via EV
On Thu May 29 09:36:11 PDT 2014 ev@lists.evdl.org said: Indeed, if you have a split pack, you need a fuse for each segment to properly protect against mechanical shorts. In an accident, both ends of a partial pack could get pinched in frame metal. Sheesh. One more thing to buy. With my current

Re: [EVDL] EV Digest, Vol 19, Issue 44

2014-05-29 Thread Lee Hart via EV
Jan Steinman via EV wrote: I think you've convinced me to install a fuse! New high-current fuses are expensive. But I have a decent collection of surplus fuses. Here are some examples. Note that AC rated fuses should only be used up to 1/4 of that voltage on DC. Write me off-list if you'd

Re: [EVDL] EV Digest, Vol 19, Issue 44

2014-05-29 Thread Jan Steinman via EV
On 2014-05-29, at 13:37, Lee Hart wrote: Jan Steinman via EV wrote: I think you've convinced me to install a fuse! New high-current fuses are expensive. You're right, they are expensive! What about fusible link wire? From an Amazon listing: A fusible link is a special section of low