thanks pip!
i actually rented the looper from robert... and just got off the phone with
him... he says it can be normal and to just wait and let it run for a while
that it will balance itself
so... wait i shall... velvet on the floor... so at least the film is cleaning
itself as it ru
I have never had this problem persist more than an hour or so.
Maybe you can contact Robert Miniaci for help as he makes 35mm
loopers in Montreal.
At 14:27 -0300 12/10/14, Amanda Christie wrote:
for those of you who have used these, or other styles of loopers
does it usually take a few da
hmmm... interesting
i've checked all the splices. clean, smooth, double spliced, no residue or
tape goo...
the projector does not leak oil...
and i haven't had any seizing problems.
sadly it is not a motorized looper... i almost got one of those, but it was
booked before me so it's r
Running anything over 10 minutes I would recommend using a failsafe system
or have the projector under constant surveillance. The more film you have
on there the more likely it is to fail and one "brain wrap" will destroy
your projector.
On Sun, Oct 12, 2014 at 11:59 AM, Pip Chodorov
wrote:
> Hi
Hi Amanda,
It's not a motorized looper is it?
The projector should be pulling film in the front as fast as it's
spitting it out the back.
Most loopers are driven by the projector so the only problem would be
if there is too much torque or friction or if the film is too heavy
and the projector i
How well are the splices made? If they're sort of uneven and bulge out, or
if there's any tape residue on that area of the print, that will cause
problems. Tightness of the film pack is also critical. If the film is wound
unevenly in any way that will cause problems, and if it's wound too tight
it
I wrapped the film another time, and adjusted the rollers and arms a bit so
that there was no slack... within 40 minutes... 4 cycles of the film, it was
back to dragging on the floor again
my guess is that the loop is just tightening a bit with each cycle, thus
freeing up more film slack o
Here's an absurdly terrible picture of the installation I was talking
about. Film ran perfectly for several weeks with no roller or tension or
anything directly below the projector, then after a few weeks (print was
changed once at this point) that "slack" below the projector started to
shrink, so
Assuming you're using a Robert Film Services looper I would double check
that all the rollers and bearings are spinning freely. These things can be
a pain: I installed one that ran perfectly for a few weeks and then started
having problems with slack (we switched the print out every two weeks, so
i
i do indeed have permutable arms!
the crazy thing is how much the slack varies within one run of the loop it
will touch the ground, but then go up and go so tight that it almost jams
that's the part that i'm struggling with
Amanda Dawn Christie
506-
I would wrap the film before it touches the ground. The pain is finding
that you need more slack to get the loop to fit. :( Do you have
permutatable arms? (aka: you can change the distance in order to take-up
slack?)
K.
On Fri, Oct 10, 2014 at 2:10 PM, Amanda Christie <
ama...@amandadawnchristie
Thanks Karl!
to clarify... am i on the right track... to keep waiting... or to keep
adjusting?
the spaghetti dance on the floor pains me to watch... i want to grab a ladder
and wrap another loop around the outside... , but it was too tight when i did
that last time, no matter where i put the r
You are on the right track. In my experience you want the platter as level
as possible (RFS Type Platter Looper) to maintain balance. Never let the
loop pull backwards and this usually results in the film binding at a point
in the run (not fun). I've had instances where I have to constantly find
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