[h-cost] Regency Low stomacher
Does anyone have any pictures or knowledge of the costruction of a low stomacher on a regency gown please, I'm particularly looking for anything of a heavier/winter weight type fabric ? Mel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency Low stomacher--long
This isn't easy to describe without pictures--I hope you can understand it. I know of two extant examples, but both are cotton.? For wool, a back closing would probably work better--I just saw an extant example of a lovely plain wool gown that opens in back, which answered my question of how I'm going to make up the wool I bought to go with a shawl my husband gave me two years ago. But, about the low stomacher, or apron front, construction.? One of the gowns has a surplice bodice--that is, the fronts cross over and form a V neckline--I don't remember if the original was then pinned or tied closed, but I made mine with ribbon ties that meet and tie in the back.? On the other, the bodice meets edge to edge and ties shut.? The front skirt panel is contructed like that for a bib front gown, with slits on either side.? The panel has a drawstring through it, and one places it over the bodice and ties it in place.? Two things I've found in constructing such gowns--first, people during the period didn't seem to care so much about what I call gaposis, so the bodice may end just at the waist--I like to extend it a little more to give adequate tuck-in below the skirt panel.? Second--one of the extant dresses was made so that the skirt drawstring ran inside the bodice and tied invisibly somehow--this drove me crazy trying to put it on and adjust everything insid! e, so I changed mine to an outer fabric tie as I've made my bibfront dresses.? The tie runs through a casing in the top of the skirt, the ends cross and go around the back, where I place fabric carriers on the side back seams at the waist, then I bring the ends back around to the front to tie.? Having them tie in the front seems to give more security to keep the skirt in position at the raised waistline.? In keeping with the line of the early 19th century, your front panel should lie flat, not gather up.? It helps to cut that front panel to accommodate the tummy--I actually curve those side front edges slightly, taking an inch off at the waist and tapering to nothing at the end of the slit.? The slits can be finished with a narrow hem or a placket facing. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Melanie Wilson melaniewil...@dragonflight.co.uk To: h-costume@mail.indra.com Sent: Fri, Jul 31, 2009 7:00 am Subject: [h-cost] Regency Low stomacher Does anyone have any pictures or knowledge of the costruction of a low stomacher on a regency gown please, I'm particularly looking for anything of a heavier/winter weight type fabric ? Mel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency Low stomacher--long
I know of two extant examples, but both are cotton.? I'm actually using cotton but far heavier than I've used before, it does not gather well and I'm not totally happy with the look at the moment But, about the low stomacher, or apron front, construction.? Low stomacher, ie without the bib front, I'm looking a the waistcoat bosom type. Yup slits on side so the front drops down in a similar way to drop fall trousers The panel has a drawstring through it, and one places it over the bodice and ties it in place.? Yes, but this fabric is a bit too heavy for a drawstring. Really I'm looking for examples with a heavier fabric it seems logical to use buttons or a supporting band, there seems to be some hint of these in contampory pictures, but as they are worn, it isn't clear if the construction is the low stomacher Second--one of the extant dresses was made so that the skirt drawstring ran inside the bodice and tied invisibly somehow--this drove me crazy trying to put it on and adjust everything insid! I like that construction, I use some inside tapes. Thanks Mel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency Low stomacher
Buttons do not seem to be very common in early 19th century dresses (or women's attire in general)--yes, one does occasionally see them on a bib top or up the back, but I don't think buttons on a band as you are suggesting are at all a period solution.? Why won't a drawstring work?? You can face the front panel casing with something lighter, rather than folding over the self fabric, and use a thicker ribbon for your drawstring--say, 1/2 grosgrain.? And, as the front panel is smooth anyway, you don't have to worry that it is bunchy.? You can, of course, pleat up the center back fullness rather than gathering--that is probably what you have in mind anyway. There is an example of a heavier cotton dress in the Old Sturbridge Village collection, but it is bibfront, and I don't remember how the skirt is done.? I saw it in the collection years ago.? http://www.osv.org/explore_learn/collection_viewer.php?N=26.33.166a-d Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Melanie Wilson melaniewil...@dragonflight.co.uk To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Fri, Jul 31, 2009 8:49 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regency Low stomacher--long I know of two extant examples, but both are cotton.?? ? I'm actually using cotton but far heavier than I've used before, it does not gather well and I'm not totally happy with the look at the moment? ? But, about the low stomacher, or apron front, construction.?? ? Low stomacher, ie without the bib front, I'm looking a the waistcoat bosom type. Yup slits on side so the front drops down in a similar way to drop fall trousers? ? The panel has a drawstring through it, and one places it over the bodice and ties it in place.?? ? Yes, but this fabric is a bit too heavy for a drawstring. Really I'm looking for examples with a heavier fabric it seems logical to use buttons or a supporting band, there seems to be some hint of these in contampory pictures, but as they are worn, it isn't clear if the construction is the low stomacher? ? Second--one of the extant dresses was made so that the skirt drawstring ran inside the bodice and tied invisibly somehow--this drove me crazy trying to put it on and adjust everything insid!? ? I like that construction, I use some inside tapes.? ? Thanks? ? Mel? ? ___? h-costume mailing list? h-cost...@mail.indra.com? http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Regency Low stomacher
Yes I agree you don't see buttons on many fashion plates, although there seem more on riding habits and more active clothing.? ? Yes, I should have added that buttons do seem to appear on what we might call man-tailored clothing, like riding habits, but not, for example, as closures on spencers or pelisses.? Or, they appear on spencers, for example, as decoration, but aren't functional. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Melanie Wilson melaniewil...@dragonflight.co.uk To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Fri, Jul 31, 2009 11:23 am Subject: Re: [h-cost] Regency Low stomacher Hi Ann? ? Thanks for the image, the waistband tied behind in the same fabric is one of the thoughts I had.? ? Yes I agree you don't see buttons on many fashion plates, although there seem more on riding habits and more active clothing.? ? Yes I've used lighter fabric on the facing tried various weights of ribbon. Bunching as in gathering isn't the problem, it more how it lies and meets (or does not) with the bodice, without it being too tight to be comfortable? ? It is very quiet here these days isn't it ?? ? Mel? ? ___? h-costume mailing list? h-cost...@mail.indra.com? http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
