Re: [h-cost] A tailoring question

[Genie Barrett]

First I'd like to say that your work is beautiful.

Second.  When a person has sloped shoulders, having a seam at the shoulders
of the facing/decorative piece to match the base garment shoulder seams
helps things to lay flatter.

That means a bit more work when doing the planning for the embroidery.  You
have to know what the ground clothing will be, and cut the neck holes out on
the dress/tunic and trace it for the facing at the same time.  Then you
shape the shoulders together just as you described, sew a seam for the tunic
and then trace that same angle for the embroidery.  You will end up with two
pieces to embroider with angles where they will be sewn together at the top
of the shoulder. Leave them uncut so you can use frame or hoop.

Next, do the embroidery.  Then cut out the two pieces and sew them
together.  Plan to do a bit of finishing embroidery after sewing the seams
to connect lines and such things.  I find that allowing a TON of seam
allowance at neck and outside edge makes this easier.

Then attach to the garment.

I have done this sort of neck and find that unless the person is seriously
buff, there is always a bit of a pucker.  You can either ignore it, button
the hole closed, or slope the shoulders appropriately.  That last requires
that the trim/decoration have the same slope in a seam in the same place.

Good luck, and here's the one I did for the coronation (SCA) for the King of
Ansteorra a year or so ago.

Genie

http://www.justinanimator.com/genie/sca/coronationTunic_hrafn/arm.jpg
http://www.justinanimator.com/genie/sca/coronationTunic_hrafn/crowningQueen.jpg
http://www.justinanimator.com/genie/sca/coronationTunic_hrafn/hrafn.jpg
http://www.justinanimator.com/genie/sca/coronationTunic_hrafn/neck.jpg
http://www.justinanimator.com/genie/sca/coronationTunic_hrafn/tunic.jpg




On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 10:09 PM, Pixel, Goddess and Queen <
pi...@hundred-acre-wood.com> wrote:

>
> But apparently I have to be special. My shoulders slope pretty
> dramatically--I have lovely Victorian champagne-bottle shoulders--which
> means that to fit smoothly my gowns get a little more tailoring.
> Specifically, I sew the two body panels together straight, do the neckline
> with a keyhole facing and then re-cut the panels (starting from the seam on
> the neck facing) down at an angle out to the point of the shoulder. The
> result is that it drops the point of the shoulder down about 1 1/2", but
> then when it comes time to attach the  embroidery to the gown there is more
> embroidery than there is gown and it won't lie flat.
>
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Trim sources?

[Pierre & Sandy Pettinger]

www.calontirtrim.com

Sandy

At 06:05 PM 5/19/2010, you wrote:

Hello List,
I was wondering if any of you know of any good online sources for
trim---gimp, woven ribbon, etc. I have tried cheeptrims.com with limited
success. I am looking for Elizabethan era type, not modern.
Thanks, Sharon C.


"Those Who Fail to Learn History
Are Doomed to Repeat It;
Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly -
Why They Are Simply Doomed."

Achemdro'hm
"The Illusion of Historical Fact"
-- C. Y. 4971

Andromeda 


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] A tailoring question

[Carol Kocian]

On May 19, 2010, at 11:09 PM, Pixel, Goddess and Queen wrote:

This is the sort of embroidery I am talking about--a circle but not  
the entire keyhole: http://img193.imageshack.us/i/dsc6499k.jpg/  
This is the Consort's outfit, which you will notice lies nice and  
flat when you arrange it to photograph it (or to attach the  
finished embroidery). I use the template for the keyhole neckline  
placket for the proper sizing.


But apparently I have to be special. My shoulders slope pretty  
dramatically--I have lovely Victorian champagne-bottle shoulders-- 
which means that to fit smoothly my gowns get a little more  
tailoring. Specifically, I sew the two body panels together  
straight, do the neckline with a keyhole facing and then re-cut the  
panels (starting from the seam on the neck facing) down at an angle  
out to the point of the shoulder. The result is that it drops the  
point of the shoulder down about 1 1/2", but then when it comes  
time to attach the  embroidery to the gown there is more embroidery  
than there is gown and it won't lie flat.




 Your embroidery will not be a complete circle. Using a gown  
that fits you, adjust the pattern to reflect your shoulder  
adjustment. Trace the pattern twice onto another piece of paper (just  
the top part). Tape together the shoulder sections and the center  
back. You should see a gap in the center front.


 Measure from the neck out for the width of your embroidery.  
That's your pattern.


 The next challenge is to get the motifs evenly as you have done  
in the photo. You'll have to divide your arc into sections, maybe use  
a protractor to do that.


 Once you have your pattern, you can cut the shoulders right  
every time and not have to re-sew the shoulders.


 -Carol
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] A tailoring question

[Sharon Collier]

If I understand correctly, when you finish, you have an oval, not a circle
for a neck hole. Therefore, make a flat OVAL shaped piece of embroidery. It
should then lie flat on your gown. 
Try with paper first to get the right shape.
-Original Message-
From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On
Behalf Of Pixel, Goddess and Queen
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2010 8:09 PM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: [h-cost] A tailoring question


I have a conundrum and I was hoping someone (or multiple someones) could
offer some advice on solving it.

I do 13th century costuming, which means rectangular body panels, and I've
started doing embroidered trim for them, so far just collar and cuff
embroidery. This gets done separately and then sewn to the garment, which is
not a problem for the Consort's tunics as he used to be a swimmer and has
lovely straight shoulders.

This is the sort of embroidery I am talking about--a circle but not the
entire keyhole: http://img193.imageshack.us/i/dsc6499k.jpg/ This is the
Consort's outfit, which you will notice lies nice and flat when you arrange
it to photograph it (or to attach the finished embroidery). I use the
template for the keyhole neckline placket for the proper sizing.

But apparently I have to be special. My shoulders slope pretty
dramatically--I have lovely Victorian champagne-bottle shoulders--which
means that to fit smoothly my gowns get a little more tailoring. 
Specifically, I sew the two body panels together straight, do the neckline
with a keyhole facing and then re-cut the panels (starting from the seam on
the neck facing) down at an angle out to the point of the shoulder. The
result is that it drops the point of the shoulder down about
1 1/2", but then when it comes time to attach the  embroidery to the gown
there is more embroidery than there is gown and it won't lie flat.

I am a mediocre seamstress at best. I can handle straight lines pretty well,
and I can follow a printed pattern, but I have no idea how to do
sophisticated tailoring. So I have come to ask if there is another way to
tailor the shoulders so that everything will lie nice and flat for the
embroidery, or if it would be better to do something different with the
embroidery.


Many thanks,

Jen/pixel/Margaret
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

[h-cost] A tailoring question

[Pixel, Goddess and Queen]

I have a conundrum and I was hoping someone (or multiple someones) could 
offer some advice on solving it.


I do 13th century costuming, which means rectangular body panels, and I've 
started doing embroidered trim for them, so far just collar and cuff 
embroidery. This gets done separately and then sewn to the garment, which 
is not a problem for the Consort's tunics as he used to be a swimmer and 
has lovely straight shoulders.


This is the sort of embroidery I am talking about--a circle but not the 
entire keyhole: http://img193.imageshack.us/i/dsc6499k.jpg/ This is the 
Consort's outfit, which you will notice lies nice and flat when you 
arrange it to photograph it (or to attach the finished embroidery). I use 
the template for the keyhole neckline placket for the proper sizing.


But apparently I have to be special. My shoulders slope pretty 
dramatically--I have lovely Victorian champagne-bottle shoulders--which 
means that to fit smoothly my gowns get a little more tailoring. 
Specifically, I sew the two body panels together straight, do the neckline 
with a keyhole facing and then re-cut the panels (starting from 
the seam on the neck facing) down at an angle out to the point of the 
shoulder. The result is that it drops the point of the shoulder down about 
1 1/2", but then when it comes time to attach the  embroidery to the gown 
there is more embroidery than there is gown and it won't lie flat.


I am a mediocre seamstress at best. I can handle straight lines pretty 
well, and I can follow a printed pattern, but I have no idea how to do 
sophisticated tailoring. So I have come to ask if there is another way to 
tailor the shoulders so that everything will lie nice and flat for the 
embroidery, or if it would be better to do something different with the 
embroidery.



Many thanks,

Jen/pixel/Margaret
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Trim sources?

[Catherine Olanich Raymond]

On Wednesday 19 May 2010 7:05:38 pm Sharon Collier wrote:
> Hello List,
> I was wondering if any of you know of any good online sources for
> trim---gimp, woven ribbon, etc. I have tried cheeptrims.com with limited
> success. I am looking for Elizabethan era type, not modern.

If you're interested in period-looking lace, Reconstructing History carries 
such things.  www.reconstructinghistory.com



-- 

Cathy Raymond 

"No one can make as disastrous a bad choice as a smart person, because they 
sell it to themselves really well."--Tobias Buckell

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

[h-cost] Trim sources?

[Sharon Collier]

Hello List,
I was wondering if any of you know of any good online sources for
trim---gimp, woven ribbon, etc. I have tried cheeptrims.com with limited
success. I am looking for Elizabethan era type, not modern.
Thanks, Sharon C.
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Fabric in Rochester / Syracuse?

[K. Gillies]

Feminine Touch Fabrics on West Fayette St. in Syracuse has loads of fantastic 
garment fabrics and lots of trims... And pretty good prices.   I purchased some 
lovely rose colored velvet there.   The hands-on owner is Linda.  She and her 
partner do CostumeCons etc and have been an fantastic source for the local uni 
theatre as well as their fashion design dept.  Here is the website: 
  I was just there a couple weeks ago and could 
barely restrain myself.  
Kathy

Message: 10
Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 07:48:58 -0400
From: Wicked Frau 
To: Historical Costume ,
    germanrencost...@yahoogroups.com,
    therenaissancetai...@yahoogroups.com, thefrazzledf...@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [h-cost] Fabric in Rochester / Syracuse?
Message-ID:
    
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

Any of you shop in these areas?  I am particularly interested in wool...but
linen and silk are always fine...  I am here visiting family for a few days.

Thanks

Sg


___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Query re: website

[Lavolta Press]

As far as the comments that seem to disparage beginners,


Uh, when did anyone disparage beginning costumers?

Fran
Lavolta Press
www.lavoltapress.com

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Query re: website

[Cactus]

As a subscriber, I would have to disagree with this.  While the site is not 
geared for beginners, even beginners can learn a tremendous amount from the 
articles as they are very well-written and do not get so techical that 
"non-geeks" can understand what is being conveyed.  I don't consider myself to 
be advanced, but rather midway.  I love all the articles.  I "specialize" in 
cowboy reenacting, which covers the mid to late 1800s but I still enjoy the 
articles on other periods.  I am always open to learning new things.  :)

As far as the comments that seem to disparage beginners, I think you have to 
assume if someone wants to make costumes, or any clothing for that matter, they 
need to have some sewing skills already.  Costumes are not easy to construct.  
The "big three" pattern companies sell "easy" sewing patterns.  I don't think 
that would be possible for period costuming.  For starters, the construction 
techniques are different from those used for modern clothing.  Where they 
obtain these skills is another matter.  This site does teach some sewing / 
construction skills, but assumes that you already know how to do basic sewing.  
If you are a beginning sewer, you can put the information in these articles to 
good use.  If you can't even thread a needle, well, you need to learn your 
basics first.  This site is not the place for that.  No site can provide ALL 
aspects - they would lose their focus.  I think they do a tremendous job of 
providing information and
 instruction on costuming of various time periods.

And now I will step down from my soap box.  :)

Cactus



- Original Message 
From: Beteena Paradise 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Wed, May 19, 2010 3:19:04 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query re: website

My impression was that the site was not for beginners. Some of the articles are 
pretty advanced. And that impression seems to be supported by the words of the 
editor herself in her response to this list. In fact, the people that I know 
who subscribe to it are quite advanced costumers who would gain nothing from a 
beginning site at all. 

But, as always, ymmv.


  

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Fabric in Rochester / Syracuse?

[Franchesca]

I really love the articles about how to manage your "stashes"! Rereading
them today since it is finally all in one room and is ready to be
catalogued. :)

Franchesca 


> -Original Message-
> From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com]
> On Behalf Of Aylwen Gardiner-Garden
> Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 2010 4:42 AM
> To: Historical Costume
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query re: website
> 
> Beteena, I completely agree. Sometimes articles appear that are in my
> field and I use them as 'refreshers'. Other times I am learning, too.
> My problem now is that there are too many things I want to make, and I
> only have so many days in the week to do them, my day job, my family
> life and all the dance events I organise!
> 
> Bye for now,
> Aylwen

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Fabric in Rochester / Syracuse?

[Courtney Westbrook]

The shop that springs to mind is Fabrics and Findings, at 50 Anderson Avenue
in Rochester.  I would try phoning them to get an idea of what they carry--I
moved down South several years ago, so I haven't been in a while.  But I
remember them having a pretty good selection of fabrics.  Their focus is
home decorating, but they had a decent number of apparel fabrics the last
time I was there.

--Courtney

On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 7:48 AM, Wicked Frau  wrote:

> Any of you shop in these areas?  I am particularly interested in wool...but
> linen and silk are always fine...  I am here visiting family for a few
> days.
>
> Thanks
>
> Sg
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

[h-cost] Fabric in Rochester / Syracuse?

[Wicked Frau]

Any of you shop in these areas?  I am particularly interested in wool...but
linen and silk are always fine...  I am here visiting family for a few days.

Thanks

Sg
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Query re: website

[Aylwen Gardiner-Garden]

Beteena, I completely agree. Sometimes articles appear that are in my
field and I use them as 'refreshers'. Other times I am learning, too.
My problem now is that there are too many things I want to make, and I
only have so many days in the week to do them, my day job, my family
life and all the dance events I organise!

Bye for now,
Aylwen
Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy
http://www.earthlydelights.com.au
Director, Jane Austen Festival Australia
http://www.janeaustenfestival.com.au







On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 8:19 PM, Beteena Paradise
 wrote:
> My impression was that the site was not for beginners. Some of the articles 
> are pretty advanced. And that impression seems to be supported by the words 
> of the editor herself in her response to this list. In fact, the people that 
> I know who subscribe to it are quite advanced costumers who would gain 
> nothing from a beginning site at all.
>
> But, as always, ymmv.
>
>
>
>
> 
> From: Lavolta Press 
> To: Historical Costume 
> Sent: Wed, May 19, 2010 6:26:22 AM
> Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query re: website
>
>
>> My impression is somewhat different--but then, so may my definition of
>> "beginner".  To me, a "beginner" is still learning to sew, let alone apply
>> that knowledge to historic clothing.
>
> I'd say "beginning costumer." I think they are right in focusing the site on 
> costuming and not on sewing basics per se--too much competition from 
> established sewing magazines. I'm not really in their market, but obviously 
> they need to do what they think will sell the largest number of subscriptions.
>
> Fran
> Lavolta Press
> www.lavoltapress.com
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
> ___
> h-costume mailing list
> h-costume@mail.indra.com
> http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
>

___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Query re: website

[Beteena Paradise]

My impression was that the site was not for beginners. Some of the articles are 
pretty advanced. And that impression seems to be supported by the words of the 
editor herself in her response to this list. In fact, the people that I know 
who subscribe to it are quite advanced costumers who would gain nothing from a 
beginning site at all. 

But, as always, ymmv.





From: Lavolta Press 
To: Historical Costume 
Sent: Wed, May 19, 2010 6:26:22 AM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Query re: website


> My impression is somewhat different--but then, so may my definition of
> "beginner".  To me, a "beginner" is still learning to sew, let alone apply
> that knowledge to historic clothing.

I'd say "beginning costumer." I think they are right in focusing the site on 
costuming and not on sewing basics per se--too much competition from 
established sewing magazines. I'm not really in their market, but obviously 
they need to do what they think will sell the largest number of subscriptions.

Fran
Lavolta Press
www.lavoltapress.com
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
___
h-costume mailing list
h-costume@mail.indra.com
http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume