[h-cost] beginner sewing machine
I have been asked by a friend who has a daughter who wants to learn to sew to make costumes to come to our vintage dances. She asked what would be a good starter machine. Does any one here have recommendations? Thanks. -- Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian katybisho...@gmail.com www.VintageVictorian.com Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] beginner sewing machine
If you want to purchase a new machine, I recommend the lower end models of Babylock. I recently went looking on a similar quest and found that for the price they seem to offer the most. Side by side with other machines, they made the least noise. I was really surprised at how clickity clack the Pfaff and Bernina were. This may sound silly, but I figure if my machine is making noises brand new, it can mean nothing but wear and failure over the long haul. My preference however is to work on all metal vintage machines. My newest is a 1947 Kenmore (which was actually made in Germany). I have 2 singers one of which is a Featherweight. Both are from the early 1900s. I am sure you will get LOTS of differing opinions on this however! Sg On Mon, Feb 6, 2012 at 8:17 AM, Katy Bishop katybisho...@gmail.com wrote: I have been asked by a friend who has a daughter who wants to learn to sew to make costumes to come to our vintage dances. She asked what would be a good starter machine. Does any one here have recommendations? Thanks. -- Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- -Sg- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] beginner sewing machine
I still love my Sears Kenmore (I've had it for 25 years), and I recommend the newer ones as well. They are not expensive and my feeling is that a plain machine that can do straight and zog-zag is more than enough for a beginning sewer. If well-maintained they should work well forever. Yorus in cosutming, LisaA On Mon, 6 Feb 2012 10:17:50 -0500 Katy Bishop katybisho...@gmail.com writes: I have been asked by a friend who has a daughter who wants to learn to sew to make costumes to come to our vintage dances. She asked what would be a good starter machine. Does any one here have recommendations? Thanks. -- Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] beginner sewing machine
After sewing using my mothers machine, I picked up an older metal machine from St. Vincent De Paul for $7. Swapped out the electrical plug and it works amazingly. Can't determine the brand or year but it's held up better than my mothers machine. Many of the newer machines out there are mostly plastic, unless you go for higher end models. Unless she plans on quilting or doing fancy stitching, stock with a basic zig-zag machine - especially if she plans on sewing historical costumes. I personally would rather put my money into better materials than a fancy new machine where I only use a few stitches on out of the hundred it can do, but that's me. Michael Deibert OAS AAS LLS Sent from my iPhone On Feb 6, 2012, at 11:04, Wicked Frau wickedf...@gmail.com wrote: If you want to purchase a new machine, I recommend the lower end models of Babylock. I recently went looking on a similar quest and found that for the price they seem to offer the most. Side by side with other machines, they made the least noise. I was really surprised at how clickity clack the Pfaff and Bernina were. This may sound silly, but I figure if my machine is making noises brand new, it can mean nothing but wear and failure over the long haul. My preference however is to work on all metal vintage machines. My newest is a 1947 Kenmore (which was actually made in Germany). I have 2 singers one of which is a Featherweight. Both are from the early 1900s. I am sure you will get LOTS of differing opinions on this however! Sg On Mon, Feb 6, 2012 at 8:17 AM, Katy Bishop katybisho...@gmail.com wrote: I have been asked by a friend who has a daughter who wants to learn to sew to make costumes to come to our vintage dances. She asked what would be a good starter machine. Does any one here have recommendations? Thanks. -- Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- -Sg- ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] used Bernina
I missed the start of this thread, so apologies if this has already been mentioned or doesn't really apply to what you asked! However, if you want an old Bernina, I highly suggest an 830 Record Electronic, which in spite of the name is pretty much mechanical, apart from the fact that you do need to plug it in (apparently the Electronic part has something to do with how the foot pedal works; the machine is supposed to have full power at all speeds). About a year ago, I inherited one from my grandma-in-law, along with several dozen attachments, and it is a thing of beauty and a joy forever. It has 20 mechanical stitches--not all of them merely decorative--along with zig-zag and straight. It has 5 needle positions (far left, kinda left, center, kinda right, far right), and adjustable stitch width and length, top and bottom tension control, an automatic bobbin winder, and a knee control presser foot lifter. It has a basting stitch option, does darning, has an automatic buttonhole system, and comes with attachments to help you do eyelets, although not automatically. It's also strong enough to go through several layers of leather, which is good, because I'm currently using mine to make the husband a Jim Morrison style leather jacket. I know that my Gma-in-law used it a lot while she had it, and apart from a piece being broken off before I got it, it was still in excellent condition after all that use. I took it for repair and a tuneup, and the guy I took it to went on and on about how strong a machine it is, and how major an event it must have taken to break that piece--like a car crash, or something. (Wish I knew what actually happened!) Anyway, although he had to do a bit of work to track down the replacement part, he was able to do so, and the repair and the thorough tune-up that I had requested together only came to around $90--I think the part wound up being around $20. It was so popular that Bernina revived the name in 2009 for their top-of-the-line model, but the kind I'm talking about was made in the 1970s and can be gotten for a few hundred on eBay, whereas the new kind is many thousands, and nowhere near as tough as my old one. Mine is a '79, and according to the Bernina site they started making them in '71; the next model (the 930) came out in '82, and is also good, but doesn't have the reputation of the 830 Record. The only truly bad thing I've ever heard about it is that some don't like the foot pedal, or that the pedal goes bad after a few decades, but can be replaced with a universal one. When I first used mine, I hated the pedal, but after a couple of hours I got used to it and now feel no need to replace it. The only other thing that annoys me at all, although I'm slowly getting used to it, is that in order to go in reverse you push a lever up, rather than down, unlike all my previous machines. It slows me down, but then I don't go in reverse that often, so I can live with it. Oh, but it is kind of hard to figure out without the manual. It's not too hard to find a copy for sale or even for free download online, though. When I first got mine, I couldn't find the manual, so I looked around and managed to download it in PDF form somewhere (can't remember where, sadly) ...although of course, shortly thereafter I found the original manual. I'm keeping my 830 as long as I possibly can! -E House ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] beginner sewing machine
It's not the number of stitches that's important, it's the quality of the stitch. I have a treadle Singer from the 1920's. It sews a beautiful stitch. But it's definitely NOT easy to use. The beauty of a modern, computerized machine lies in its user-friendly features, such as needle-stop down, and electronic stitch control in the presser foot. I really use the knee lever on my Bernina to raise and lower the presser foot, too. It's like having a 3rd hand. I'm sorry to say that most sewing machine retailers remind me of snake oil salesmen. (NOTE: I did say most, not all.) Try to listen to them only with one ear, and take what they say with a grain of salt. But do bring your own fabric, the type you most often use, and insist on doing some test sewing. You are the one who will be using the machine, not the salesperson, You need to try it out. My recommendation would be to look for a good, sturdy used machine. Start by looking for a Bernina (not Bernette). Kim ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] nankeen substitute
Hello all, I'm planning to make the Past Patterns 1793-1820 Transition Stay. It says that the stay the pattern was taken from was made in nankeen, and that nankeen is unlike any fabric available in today's market, but doesn't offer any suggestions as to what to use instead. Does anyone know what kind of fabric would give me the closest approximation? Thanks! Emily ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] nankeen substitute
Looks like it might just be yellow cloth: - Printhttp://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964?print - http://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry.pagelinks.savecontentlink:savecontent?t:ac=Entry/124964 Savehttp://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964#http://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964# - Emailhttp://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964# - Citehttp://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964# - Text size:Ahttp://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964# - Ahttp://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964# nankeen, n. and adj. View as: - Outlinehttp://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry:showfullentry/false?t:ac=Entry/124964 | - Full entryhttp://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry:showfullentry/true?t:ac=Entry/124964 Quotations: - Show allhttp://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry:showallquotations/true?t:ac=Entry/124964 | - Hide allhttp://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry:showallquotations/false?t:ac=Entry/124964 *Pronunciation:* Brit. /nanˈkiːn/ , /naŋˈkiːn/ , U.S. /nænˈkin/ *Forms:* 17 *nankein*, 17–18 *nanquin*, 17– *nankeen*, 17– *nankin*, 18 * namking* (*U.S.*), 19– *nanking*. Also with capital initial.(Show Less)http://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964# *Etymology:* *Nankin* , former spelling of the name of the city of * Nanking* (see Nanking n.http://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/view/Entry/245052#eid12289719); the form *nankeen* is probably after -een suffix1http://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/view/Entry/59634#eid5749135. Compare French*nankin* , noun (1760 denoting a type of cotton fabric, generally of a yellow colour, 1842 denoting a pale yellow colour) and adjective (1804 in sense ‘of a pale yellow colour’), Dutch *nankin* , * nanking* , noun (mid 19th cent.), German *Nanking* . The name of the city, in the form *Lankin* or *Lanquin* (probably via Portuguese), was applied to a kind of silk in the 17th cent.: see further H. Yule and A. C. Burnell *Hobson-Jobson* (1886), s.v. *Nanking*. (Show Less)http://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964# *A.* n. *I.* A kind of cloth; senses relating to this. *1.* Thesaurus »http://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964 Categories »http://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964 *a.* A kind of pale yellowish cloth, originally made at Nanking from a yellow variety of cotton, but subsequently manufactured from ordinary cotton which is then dyed; more fully nankeen cloth. Also in*pl.*: a piece or variety of this cloth. Now chiefly *hist.*In some 18th-cent. uses perh. referring to a variety of unbleached silk rather than cotton. *c*1700*Acct. of Sale of India Silkshttp://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964 * 1/2 Damask Nankeens 403, at 5*l*. 1755in F. W. Fairholt *Satirical Songs Poems on Costumehttp://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964 * (1849) 239 Make his breeches of nankein, Most like nature, most like skin. 1781A. Adams in *Familiar Lett.http://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964 * (1876) 402 There are some articles, which come from India,‥Bengals, nankeens, Persian silk. *c*1809F. Buchanan in M. Martin *Eastern Indiahttp://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964 * (1838) III. 244 Wool having the colour of nankeen cloth. 1878J. H. Gray *Chinahttp://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964 * III. xxiii. 143 The cloth called nankin, generally written nankeen, is of the greatest durability. 1891*Cent. Mag.http://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964 * Mar. 735 The middle and lower half had been supplanted by another vest and trousers of faded nankeen. 1936*Jrnl. Southern Hist.http://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964 * *2* 412 Translated, it runs like this, ‘Oh, you American knave dressed in nankeen—You steal loaves of bread for Mister d'Quin!’ 1957P. White *Vosshttp://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964 * xi. 318 Many a citizen, walking at the water's edge, in good nankeen or new merino, did entertain secret hopes. 1997T. Clark *Empire of Skinhttp://www.oed.com.ezproxy.pvc.maricopa.edu/viewdictionaryentry/Entry/124964 * ii. 79 The long overland trek toting skins of sea otters‥to exchange for‥nankeens and tea. On Mon, Feb 6, 2012 at 11:37 AM, Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.comwrote: Hello all, I'm
Re: [h-cost] nankeen substitute
As I understand it, nankeen was a pale yellow/pale brownish cotton which was originally from naturally colored cotton and then became a term for a sturdy cotton dyed a buff yellow in imitation of the Chinese original (nankeen=nanking). I have never heard it refered to as being a special weave (like twill) so I have assumed that it is just a sturdy plain weave cotton in a pale yellow. I'd love to know if anyone else has more specific information. Karen -- Original Message -- From: Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.com To: 'Historical Costume' h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] nankeen substitute Date: Mon, 06 Feb 2012 12:37:47 -0600 Hello all, I'm planning to make the Past Patterns 1793-1820 Transition Stay. It says that the stay the pattern was taken from was made in nankeen, and that nankeen is unlike any fabric available in today's market, but doesn't offer any suggestions as to what to use instead. Does anyone know what kind of fabric would give me the closest approximation? Thanks! Emily ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume Get Free Email with Video Mail Video Chat! http://www.juno.com/freeemail?refcd=JUTAGOUT1FREM0210 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] nankeen substitute
I asked Saundra the same question and she recommended a cotton sheeting. It has to be lightweight. Katy On Mon, Feb 6, 2012 at 1:37 PM, Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.com wrote: Hello all, I'm planning to make the Past Patterns 1793-1820 Transition Stay. It says that the stay the pattern was taken from was made in nankeen, and that nankeen is unlike any fabric available in today's market, but doesn't offer any suggestions as to what to use instead. Does anyone know what kind of fabric would give me the closest approximation? Thanks! Emily ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian katybisho...@gmail.com www.VintageVictorian.com Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] nankeen substitute
My impression was always that it was a heavier cotton cloth. It was made into sturdy boots/halfboots for wearing when walking. And men's trousers were made of it. Sheeting would not make very good men's trousers. ;-) I always envisioned it as the weight of a thin denim/twill though not necessarily that weave style. It was originally made from a yellowish/brownish Chinese cotton, but later regular cotton was used and dyed that same color. Teena From: Katy Bishop katybisho...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Monday, February 6, 2012 7:00 PM Subject: Re: [h-cost] nankeen substitute I asked Saundra the same question and she recommended a cotton sheeting. It has to be lightweight. Katy On Mon, Feb 6, 2012 at 1:37 PM, Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.com wrote: Hello all, I'm planning to make the Past Patterns 1793-1820 Transition Stay. It says that the stay the pattern was taken from was made in nankeen, and that nankeen is unlike any fabric available in today's market, but doesn't offer any suggestions as to what to use instead. Does anyone know what kind of fabric would give me the closest approximation? Thanks! Emily ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian katybisho...@gmail.com www.VintageVictorian.com Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] nankeen substitute
The English schoolboy's hat I have is lined with that, it appears. Nice to know what it is. It is thin, but the twill weave gives it a very soft feel to the fingers. Very smooth. Sharon C. -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Katy Bishop Sent: Monday, February 06, 2012 11:01 AM To: Historical Costume Subject: Re: [h-cost] nankeen substitute I asked Saundra the same question and she recommended a cotton sheeting. It has to be lightweight. Katy On Mon, Feb 6, 2012 at 1:37 PM, Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.com wrote: Hello all, I'm planning to make the Past Patterns 1793-1820 Transition Stay. It says that the stay the pattern was taken from was made in nankeen, and that nankeen is unlike any fabric available in today's market, but doesn't offer any suggestions as to what to use instead. Does anyone know what kind of fabric would give me the closest approximation? Thanks! Emily ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume -- Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian katybisho...@gmail.com www.VintageVictorian.com Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] beginner sewing machine
For any who want an old metal machine: I would recommend against the Kenmore. I grew up using (and cussing!) my mother's ca 1962 Kenmore. It *ate* thinner fabrics. I used it periodically to mend my Dad's clothing when home for visits, and even with years more experience sewing, I never made peace with the clunker. In fact, it's available in Santa Barbara, California if anyone's interested. Decent modern cabinet and quite clean. Make an offer :) My personal take about Bernina is that the knee lever was made for short people. Hated that so-called feature. I ended up with a Pfaff about 20 years ago and I utterly love it. Wonderfully solid machine. ==Marjorie On Feb 6, 2012, at 9:29 AM, Kim Baird wrote: It's not the number of stitches that's important, it's the quality of the stitch. I have a treadle Singer from the 1920's. It sews a beautiful stitch. But it's definitely NOT easy to use. The beauty of a modern, computerized machine lies in its user-friendly features, such as needle-stop down, and electronic stitch control in the presser foot. I really use the knee lever on my Bernina to raise and lower the presser foot, too. It's like having a 3rd hand. I'm sorry to say that most sewing machine retailers remind me of snake oil salesmen. (NOTE: I did say most, not all.) Try to listen to them only with one ear, and take what they say with a grain of salt. But do bring your own fabric, the type you most often use, and insist on doing some test sewing. You are the one who will be using the machine, not the salesperson, You need to try it out. My recommendation would be to look for a good, sturdy used machine. Start by looking for a Bernina (not Bernette). Kim ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 11, Issue 29
For a first machine, I would look for an Estate sale. I believe the older simpler machines are actually less confusing to learn on, force you to use good seam technique rather than fancy stitches and are a whole lot more solid. My Mother had a Husqvana and she used it for everything from ballet dresses to canvas horse covers. She worked it hard and it lasted over 40 years. I bought a new Pfaff Tiptronic 29 years ago and loved it dearly. I learned to sew on it. It developed a small fault in that the clutch did not disconnect when bobbin winding and I bought a Janome as a pressy to myself. I got the Pfaff serviced and gave it to my daughter. The clutch still doesn't work and I still use it when I want to sew tough stuff as the Janome simply won't stitch even thin leather, or thick denim. I bought a Janome overlocker (serger) site unseen from an auction house for $28 about 15 years ago. It has purred ever since, apart from the fact that I didn't realise where all the oiling points were and it needed attention for nasty noises. I have seen some of the cheaper brands offered a beginner specials and they can be nasty. The problems they develop will put people off learning. Ask around though, there are a lot of machines sitting around and the owners are often happy for them to get a good home if it helps a young person start sewing. I have seen half a dozen such transactions over the tea room table at work. Lynlee I have been asked by a friend who has a daughter who wants to learn to sew to make costumes to come to our vintage dances. She asked what would be a good starter machine. Does any one here have recommendations? Thanks. -- Katy Bishop, Vintage Victorian katybisho...@gmail.comwww.VintageVictorian.com Custom reproduction gowns of the Victorian Era. Publisher of the Vintage Dress Series books. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] nankeen substitute
Lightweight cotton sheeting? It's a good thing I asked - I was thinking more along the lines of a sturdy twill! Emily On 2/6/2012 1:00 PM, Katy Bishop wrote: I asked Saundra the same question and she recommended a cotton sheeting. It has to be lightweight. Katy On Mon, Feb 6, 2012 at 1:37 PM, Emily Gilbertemchantm...@gmail.com wrote: Hello all, I'm planning to make the Past Patterns 1793-1820 Transition Stay. It says that the stay the pattern was taken from was made in nankeen, and that nankeen is unlike any fabric available in today's market, but doesn't offer any suggestions as to what to use instead. Does anyone know what kind of fabric would give me the closest approximation? Thanks! Emily ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] nankeen substitute
Hi, In 18th-century and 19th-century , nankeen was popularly used for breeches, so I wouldn't go too lightweight with it. Since it was a naturally-colored cotton you might have fun using one of the yellowish http://foxfibre.com/ fabrics. When I get home tonight I'll look it up in Montgomery's Textiles in America to see if she has any info about weave. Lauren - Original Message - From: Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Monday, February 6, 2012 1:37:47 PM Subject: [h-cost] nankeen substitute Hello all, I'm planning to make the Past Patterns 1793-1820 Transition Stay. It says that the stay the pattern was taken from was made in nankeen, and that nankeen is unlike any fabric available in today's market, but doesn't offer any suggestions as to what to use instead. Does anyone know what kind of fabric would give me the closest approximation? Thanks! Emily ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] beginner sewing machine
On Mon, Feb 6, 2012 at 11:05 AM, Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com wrote: I would recommend against the Kenmore. I grew up using (and cussing!) my mother's ca 1962 Kenmore. It *ate* thinner fabrics. I used it periodically to mend my Dad's clothing when home for visits, and even with years more experience sewing, I never made peace with the clunker. Kenmore machines were (and still are) made for Sears/Kenmore by whatever manufacturer Sears is contracting with at the moment. For decades, they were made by White (excellent machines), but by the early 60's they switched to foreign manufacturers. That pretty much killed White, now it's just a name that's been passed around between different companies that bought and sold the trademark. In the late 70's to mid 80's Sears was using a pretty good Japanese manufacturer (no, I don't know which one), but it's totally a YMMV situation. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] nankeen substitute
On Mon, Feb 6, 2012 at 1:37 PM, Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.com wrote: Hello all, I'm planning to make the Past Patterns 1793-1820 Transition Stay. It says that the stay the pattern was taken from was made in nankeen, and that nankeen is unlike any fabric available in today's market, but doesn't offer any suggestions as to what to use instead. Does anyone know what kind of fabric would give me the closest approximation? Thanks! Emily According to Montgomery, Textiles in America, Nankeen is a cotton cloth of plain weave originally sold at Nankin in China and made from a yellow variety of cotton... At least by the mid-eighteenth century, in the Manchester area it was made of ordinary cotton dyed yellow. Swatch number 62 in Holker's manuscript is nankeen suitable for men's waistcoats and trousers which he says wears very well. (see page 308 for more details) You might try to find coutil, which is made specifically made for corsets. It's fairly lightweight, but very strong. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Help! Really want to copy an outfit from the movie Scrooge
Hello, all. I have questions about a beautiful outfit I saw in the 1970 version of the movie “Scrooge”. The lovely Edith Evans portrays the Ghost of Christmas Past, and enters so beautifully dressed! I have to copy it. I know, it's Hollywood (okay, Shepperton), but it's just so lovely I'm willing to give up the authenticity factor. I managed to get some still photos off the DVD. They're on my Flickr site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/24767089@N06/sets/72157629192291315/ Now, the questions. The book was published in 1843, but doesn't give Scrooge's age. That makes it very hard to guess what year the Ghost of Christmas Past originates. Scrooge was a little boy, but how many years have passed? Ms. Evans appears to be wearing a bronze or green silk gown and a pannier, with a red wool overcoat or overdress with a peplum. What would the gown underneath have looked like? Am I even close in my guesses of what I'm seeing? Thanks, Michelle ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Help! Really want to copy an outfit from the movie Scrooge
At 05:49 PM 2/6/2012, you wrote: Hello, all. I have questions about a beautiful outfit I saw in the 1970 version of the movie Scrooge. The lovely Edith Evans portrays the Ghost of Christmas Past, and enters so beautifully dressed! I have to copy it. I know, it's Hollywood (okay, Shepperton), but it's just so lovely I'm willing to give up the authenticity factor. I managed to get some still photos off the DVD. They're on my Flickr site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/24767089@N06/sets/72157629192291315/ Now, the questions. The book was published in 1843, but doesn't give Scrooge's age. That makes it very hard to guess what year the Ghost of Christmas Past originates. Scrooge was a little boy, but how many years have passed? Ms. Evans appears to be wearing a bronze or green silk gown and a pannier, with a red wool overcoat or overdress with a peplum. What would the gown underneath have looked like? Am I even close in my guesses of what I'm seeing? Thanks, Michelle Scrooge was a relatively young man in c.1810-1820, when he worked for Mr. Fezziwig. His childhood could well have been in the late 18th century, say the 1780s to 90s. The neckline of the gown resembles those dated 1770-80, 1775-85, and 1780-90 in Janet Arnold, Patterns of Fashion 1 (c.1660-1860). they are described in Arnold as either a polonaise or open gown and petticoat. The neckline is made modest by a buffon or handkerchief worn around the neck and tucked into the neckline. Stays and a bustle pad or false rump was worn under the gown. If I were making this outfit, I would base it on an open gown and petticoat. Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Help! Really want to copy an outfit from the movie Scrooge
Thank you, Joan! That's a big help. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
