Re: [h-cost] Craftsman decorating

2016-03-25 Thread Brenda Bell



From: Marjorie Wilser 
To: Historical Costume 
Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2016 19:19:38 -0700
Reply-To: Historical Costume 
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Craftsman decorating

They also liked hammered copper— did you note 
the glasses underneath the ones linked?

==Marjorie Wilser


Completely off the "Craftsman" theme, but the 
water glasses in their "Gibraltar" pattern remind 
me of the glasses Yahrzeit candles used to come 
in. (For the non-Jews: these are sometimes called 
"memorial candles" and are used to honor our 
deceased first-degree relations on certain holy 
days and on the anniversary -- in Yiddish, 
"Yahrzeit" -- of their passing.) Pretty much 
every US Jewish home from the 1960s through the 
1980s (maybe even the 1990s -- I don't recall 
exactly when the switch was made to smaller 
containers) used these as water glasses 
(obviously *after* the candle had been burned and 
the candle-remains cleaned out). I may have seen 
something like the taller glass in that set 
somewhere like Jahn's (regional chain of ice 
cream parlors established in 1897 per 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jahn%27s) or one of 
the luncheonettes we occasionally went to in the 1960s and 1970s.



> On 3/24/2016 4:56 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:
>> The arts and crafts movement shunned mass produced items. So, how about
>> something like this:
>> http://www.worldmarket.com/product/carats+barware.do?&from=fn




Brenda F. Bell
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Re: [h-cost] Smocks/Smocking; "Mouse-Proof"

2015-12-19 Thread Brenda Bell

Susan wrote:


Hi all,
I'm still here.  I get fed up with facebook, and 
rarely with email lists, so happy to see people.


I've refused to join Facebook. (That said, I am 
on Twitter, Google+, and LinkedIn.)


Since you're all here ...  I've just gotten 
interested in english smocks (18th - 19th c 
ones) and was debating making one.


Cool! It was something that surprised me years 
ago, when I purchased a second-hand book I 
expected to be mostly smocking patterns. (_Smocks 
and Smocking_, by Beverley Marshall, 1981 Van 
Nostrand Reinhold: New York, ISBN 0-442-28269-9 — 
paperback edition of Alphabooks UK 1980 hardcover).


Marshall tries to disambiguate body-garment 
smocks from protective-overgarment smocks, 
decorative smocks, and smocking (needlework 
technique), showing examples of all of the above 
(with a number of the garments exhibiting 
variations of the needlework technique).


RE: Mouse-Proof: On page 14 of _Smocks and 
Smocking_, Marshall describes the attire of Victorian smock-wearing laborers:
"Trousers were made of fustian' or 'moleskin': a 
strong twilled cotton with a smooth matt surface 
favoured by the labourer for its resemblance to 
their earlier leather breeches. THey were hitched 
up under the knee by a leather strap or simply a 
piee of string, good for preventing field mice 
and insects from running up the wearer's legs."
From which one might surmise that Miss 
Browning's knickers might have been made of a 
smooth, sturdy fabric and bound tightly to the leg at the lower edges.



Brenda F. Bell
webwar...@earthlink.net

Support me in riding the 2016 Tour de Cure to 
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Re: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

2015-12-17 Thread Brenda Bell



From: Carol Kocian 
To: Historical Costume 
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 2015 01:17:40 -0500
Reply-To: Historical Costume 
Message-ID: 
Subject: [h-cost] Is h-costume still going?

Hi all,

Is h-costume still going?


Sadly, I'm mostly GAFIAted from costuming in general, and historical 
costuming in particular, on account of logistics (no room in which to 
work, need the money for work clothes, work schedule prohibits much 
else). My current project is a "bucket list" attempt at making a 
gingerbread house (and transporting it 300+ miles). My on-hold 
needlework project is completing a Craftsy course that explains the 
differences between English, Continental, and Portuguese knitting 
styles (I knit mostly Eastern because that's how I learned and it's 
the only way that makes sense if you knit ambidextrously).



Brenda
webwar...@earthlink.net
PFS #47

Support me in riding the 2016 Tour de Cure to Stop Diabetes! 
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Re: [h-cost] h-costume on facebook?

2015-08-30 Thread Brenda Bell



From: Carol Kocian 
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2015 14:13:50 -0400
Subject: [h-cost] h-costume on facebook?

Does h-costume have a presence on facebook? 
Someone was just asking for an all-era sewing 
group, not just for patterns, not just for 
challenges, but a place to discuss and ask questions.


Thanks!
-Carol


From: Patricia Dunham 
Date: Sat, 29 Aug 2015 12:01:19 -0700
Subject: Re: [h-cost] h-costume on facebook?
Message: 2

I hope not, or if so, that it is an open site… I 
don't care to turn my life over to the world via 
Facebook and SO many research sites there are 
locked up where you can't see the info!


I'd encourage folk to join mailing lists like 
this one -- even though it's "older technology", 
there are no issues with Facebook's constantly 
changing privacy settings, harvesting user 
information, and so on. (I have not, and will 
not, join Facebook. That said, I *am* on 
LinkedIn, Google+, Twitter, Pinterest, and a 
number of Yahoo groups, which *also* do a bunch 
of privacy invasion/info harvesting).




Brenda F. Bell
webwar...@earthlink.net

Support me in riding the 2015 Tour de Cure to 
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Re: [h-cost] Pomona Green: vote now! (Hope Greenberg)

2015-01-19 Thread Brenda Bell

At 02:00 PM 1/19/2015, Hope Greenberg wrote:

All agreed that they seemed to fall into 3 categories: emerald (or 
blue-ish), olive, grassy. The version attached here is not 
particularly sorted and it has five clips at the top of the second 
page that actually included the name "pomona" in their descriptions.


Interesting! This is challenging my thoughts of classifying greens. 
I'll agree with emerald being a blueish green, but usually not quite 
as blue as a pthalo green, and some of the craft paints I've seen 
called "viridian" seem to fall in the same group. I don't usually 
think of "grassy" greens as yellowish: those are usually referred to 
as "spring green" or "pea green", even though the greens I see in 
spring are not all that yellow. Most "olive" greens are yellowish 
towards the brown, and most "sage" greens a bit light and towards the 
gray -- but here I'm seeing colors I'd call "sage" that are more 
towards the brown, and "olives" that are not as brown as I usually 
perceive them. One factor in this is brightness, since I normally 
think of sage as a somewhat washed-out color, and those brownish 
greens are more washed-out than I usually think of as olives. Another 
factor is  "lighting accommodation": when it looks like the image has 
color-shifted (either because the scene had been transcribed with 
color-shifted lighting, or because the image had shifted color over 
time), my brain will "correct" colors to what they "should have been" 
without the color cast.


Sharon Collier notes:


"...the elusiveness of keeping that color".
This is exactly the problem I have. My sage green sleeves and forepart have
faded to a yellow-ish green. Not as nice a color as I originally had.


Interesting. I normally wouldn't have considered sage as fading 
towards the yellow... All sorts of questions are popping up in my 
head about the types of dyes and/or pigments used in the garment, and 
the environmental factors that have led to its fading...



Brenda F. Bell
webwar...@earthlink.net

Support me in riding the 2015 Tour de Cure to Stop Diabetes! 
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[h-cost] New York garment district

2015-01-15 Thread Brenda Bell

AtMon, 01 Dec 2014 22:27:11 -0800, humbugfo...@att.net wrote:

Also, I've checked the Met and FITM for costume exhibits and there 
doesn't seem to be anything particularly exciting on their 
schedules. Can anyone suggest any other museums or exhibitions that 
would have (historical) costumes on display?


I'd check the People Center at the American Museum of Natural History 
for costumes of indigenous peoples. I might also check the Museum of 
the City of New York, the New York Historical Society, the Museum 
of  Folk Art, and the American Crafts Museum to see if there will be 
any interesting exhibits. You might also check to see if you can do 
some specific study at the Met's Costume Institute, if there's 
something particular you wish to research.



Brenda F. Bell
webwar...@earthlink.net

Support me in riding the 2015 Tour de Cure to Stop Diabetes! 
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Re: [h-cost] Anyone here?

2015-01-15 Thread Brenda Bell
I'm here, but mostly haven't had the time to dedicate to costuming, 
or the money to go to renfaires, recently. I am NOT on Facebook 
(don't agree with their ToS). I AM on Twitter, tweeting mostly for 
the diabetes community, and I'm on Pinterest, though I'm not terribly 
active there. I'm also on LinkedIn, but again, use that mostly in 
conjunction with health activities.



Brenda F. Bell
webwar...@earthlink.net

Support me in riding the 2015 Tour de Cure to Stop Diabetes! 
http://main.diabetes.org/goto/tmana 


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[h-cost] My Aiguillettes Page has moved

2011-09-18 Thread Brenda Bell

I'm moving my pages from Earthlink over to webwarren.com (our own domain).

My page on making aiguillettes is now at 
http://n2kye.webwarren.com/aiguillettes/


Please pass on the information and update your bookmarks appropriately.


Brenda F. Bell
webwar...@earthlink.net

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http://www2.jdrf.org/goto/bfbell  


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Re: [h-cost] Vietnamese loom

2009-02-07 Thread Brenda Bell

At Sat,  7 Feb 2009 11:47:37 +1100, stils...@netspace.net.au wrote:


...You can vary the thread for colour as you go but, amazingly in Bali, I
saw thread pre-dyed at various points so as to create a regular 
pattern. I would
give twenty zillion dollars for my brane to remember the term for 
this technique
but it is 115 degrees here and I am not about to go thinking. Still, 
the pattern
is fantastic, a little blurred at the edges due to the in-exact way 
the pattern

comes out.


I believe that technique is called "ikat".



Brenda
webwar...@earthlink.net
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Re: Re: [h-cost] Re: "Future clothing"

2005-07-13 Thread Brenda Bell

Wed, 13 Jul 2005 17:08:32 -0700, Lavolta Press <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Something retro.  The fashion industry has been mining retro (or history) 
since, heck, since about 1800.  Maybe 20 years from now, the 1980s, 1990s, 
and early 2000s all mixed together?  30 years from now, they can start 
swiping from some years later in the 2000s.


That sounds a lot like what the '90's were like... 40's shoulder pads, 50's 
"crinoline" skirts, and... hmm... some of the Mod and Rocker looks of the 
60's/early 70's, plus add in the 50's "biker" look (often redone in black 
as "punk") and the "Goth" look...


Maybe they can do the Geek Look.  Recalling the glamorous years of being 
able to make (or lose) a killing in high-tech start-up stocks.  Of course, 
the really distinctive geek accessories were old-fashioned by the 
1980s--the plastic reinforcer for the ballpoint pen in the shirt pocket, 
the stack of punch cards, and thick glasses.  But I could see them being 
labeled 1980s-90s anyway.


The pocket protector would hold your iPod or your Smart Phone... Geek 
glasses almost seem to be back, but for women. Then there were the 
high-water pants worn with mismatched sweat socks, the crew-necked 
undershirt sticking out the unbuttoned collar of the shirt... In short, the 
"Are You a Nerd?" poster of circa 1980 that was marketed alongside the "Are 
You a Preppy?" (male and female versions) posters. FWIW, the one on my door 
was the "Are You A JAP?" version -- while *I* wasn't, I grew up in a town 
where most of the Conservative and Reformed Jewish girls... *were*.


I notice Lord & Taylor has had a lot of Scooter Skirts this spring/summer. 
'Course there's another name for it now...


There might be some new synthetics, but I'd wonder _how_ new.  I'm not a 
textile expert, but a number of the "new" ones now seem to be minor 
variants on rayon, polyester, and--Lycra?  What is the forerunner of 
Spandex?  Maybe there will be a new textile that provides extra sun protection?


One of the very interesting new fibers that's being worked with is 
Holofiber, which IIRC aligns microprisms in a polyester matrix. It conducts 
light of certain wavelengths from the outside surface of the fabric to the 
inside; at current, it is used mostly in specialized medical applications 
(wound healing).


In other words, I see fashion evolving along the same lines it's been 
evolving in for some time.  I could see some sort of new electronics that 
would spur a need for special pockets in clothing and purses.


Checkout the clothing sold at http://www.scottevest.com -- they've been 
doing hidden/specialty pockets for years, now!


Maybe a combination small personal computer (but the monitor would be 
terribly small, unless you could magnify the image) and picture cell phone.


What I've seen people talking about is a HUD that displays on your 
spectacles (think of "Augur's" specialized glasses in _Earth: Final 
Conflict_)...


As for nanotech within the human body, I don't see it happening except for 
people who are fatally ill or otherwise medically desperate, for whom it 
is worth the substantial risks.  If you've ever had a few problems with 
your Miscrosoft programs, can you imagine what buggy software could do 
INSIDE YOU?


Hey, most humans already *have* "buggy software" inside them. Otherwise, 
how would you account for genetically-based diseases, cancers, even such 
common medical problems as bunions and Metabolic Syndrome?


Though I should certainly hate to have to believe that Mr. Gates and Mr. 
Ballmer are G-d and Jesus rolled into one...


Brenda
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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[h-cost] Re: "Future clothing"

2005-07-13 Thread Brenda Bell
What will be interesting will be to examine our ideas of what clothing will 
be like 20 years from now, 20-30 years from now to see how far off the mark 
we were...


Back in grade school, when we still had weekly "Assembly" marked by 
performances from each class in the grade (each week a different class), 
one of the classes put on a "history of fashion" show. I recall this being 
during the 1967-68 school year, and the group of classes was first- and 
second-graders (6-, 7-, and 8-year-olds). The show ended with a look at 
"fashions of the future" which, for the purpose of the presentation, was 
approximately 1980. The two girls modelling this "look" were wearing 
metallic-looking clothes (I believe one had on a jumper of silvery 
bonded-knit lamé, with a gold large-link chain belt worn at hip-level).


Around us, the NASA space program was in full-swing and we fully expected 
to be able to travel to the Moon and Mars easily within our lifetimes -- 
the cartoon program _The Jetsons_ was a very plausible "future reality" for 
us. The metallics represented the future for us, space travel and space 
suits and the idea of these lines and fabrics trickling down into everyday 
apparel.


As it turned out, the only element of that grade-school "fashion show" that 
was "prescient" about 1980 is that we still had some below-the-waist styles 
of lower-garments -- hip-huggers had not yet died out completely. On the 
other hand, George Jetson's front-ladder-laced polo shirt is little more 
than a solid-color version of the broad-striped "rugby shirt" of the 
'seventies and early 'eighties, or today's ubiquitous polo shirt -- and the 
highly-structured collars and shoulder treatments of Jane and Judy Jetsons' 
dresses survived, morphed into the ultra-broad-shouldered, structured and 
highly-graphically-oriented "power suits" Bob Mackie created for the 
"Alexis Carrington Colby" character in _Dynasty_.


Some of the more dystopic looks at the future would have had us all in "Mao 
suits" by now; yet the women's "power suit" of the '80's (ref John T. 
Malloy, "The Women's Dress for Success Book") is almost impossible to find 
in a modern cut and many workplaces encourage creativity in 
self-presentation to a degree that would have seemed unthinkable even a 
deacade ago.


So... camoflage "Mao" suits with metal plate interlinings? Shirts and 
shifts because nobody can afford outer garments (except the very rich)? 
All-natural fibers? All synthetic fibers? Holographically-projected 
clothing (now *there's* "The Emperor's New Suit of Clothes" for ya...)


Brenda
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



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[h-cost] Going round in circles... (The T-shirts and pants things)

2005-07-13 Thread Brenda Bell
Coming back to the thread on "droopy drawers" for the moment, The one thing 
the droopy drawers (I mean, jeans) -- worn most frequently with 
knee-length, greatly-oversized T-shirts (or sports jerseys, or tanks, 
or...) -- reminds me of is, all the threads on this list and others about 
shirtes and trews. I have to chuckle at these young kids going around in 
what looks like their (somewhat updated!) underwear!


Then again, we've had the "camisole top", "chemise dress", and "slip 
skirt/petticoat skirt" trends going in and out of style for young women 
over the past 25 years or so, that it's probably about time for young men 
to go around in "underwear-as-outerwear"...


OTTH, the first time I saw **T-shirts** that oversized in style, they were 
shown in a junior/misses/women's ("Hey, tourist gal! Buy this as a souvenir 
of Miami Beach, 1980!") shop, one side knotted up at just-below-crotch 
height, worn either as a beach coverup or over leggings.


The thing that really bugs me about current styles, though -- other than 
the "I have a loaded diaper under my pants" look -- are the super-low-cuts 
that require the wearer shave or wax off *everything* below the navel and 
make even the slimmest of women look pregnant.


Worse, I think this look triggers anorexia since some of the slim teens and 
young women who have bought into this look show up on health-and-fitness 
sites such as SELF magazine's "healthy eating forum" severely underweight 
and asking how to lose weight to get rid of their "pooch" (natural belly 
curvature). An interesting side-note is that to my eyes, the media only 
seem to acknowledge anorexia nervosa (which I understand to be a continuing 
problem among women at least going back to the 1920's and probably back to 
Victorian days, if not further) when the current style for females is for 
hip-huggers/low-riders/"waistline"-exposes-part-of-the-belly slacks...


Then again, given the choice of seeing large numbers of obese women who 
think they look fine in tight-fitting, belly-exposing tank-tops with 
super-low-slung jeans, or those obese women being afraid to go out in 
public because they believe they *don't* look fine in any sort of modern 
clothes (and therefore stress-eat themselves into even worse obesity)... 
viewing the exposed bellies has *got* to be the better choice...




Brenda
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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