Re: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS

2008-04-14 Thread Sharon Collier
This is why I feel regular production meetings are so important. At the
first meeting, all the designers and the director get together and discuss
the direction of the show re: design, style, etc. As soon as the show is
cast, meet again and make any changes (if the leads won't look good in the
original ideas, change them ASAP) Then meet every week until tech week. It
keeps the director and producer from getting any surprises and you can let
folks know if their expectations aren't going to be met because of
budget/time/lack of help, etc. 
As to professional standards, if the director/producer changes my ideas so
radically that I would be embarrassed to have my name on them, I do the job
as asked (I'm assuming you're getting paid), but ask that I not be listed in
the program as the designer, after all, if your designs have been altered,
they aren't a good reflection of your abilities.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of AVCHASE
Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 7:46 PM
To: h-costume posts
Subject: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS

Hi, All. The most recent show on which I  worked opened last last Thursday.
And over all its a good show. But some of the fallout has been very
upsetting to me.
The director invited me to do this show for her, her last show (she's said
that for for the last three years), and I've done them. Each time some cast
members have been down right vicious. This time was the worst.
It occurred to me we expected different things as/from a designer. I'd just
assumed they all understood that I only did these shows to practice my
craft, keep my abilities in shape, and explore my ideas. Maybe her agenda
was different?
So I sent an email and asked what she had expected when she engaged a
designer. She wrote back to me a very complimentary (damned by praise-forget
faint) note about my design capabilities; but-said I was overbearing, didn't
listen to the actress's ideas and was not willing to take suggestions form
the actresses. The ideas and suggestions were put forth a few days before
dress and production had gotten me no help for a small musical with 48
changes in it. Some very small; most changes are full costume though. I
found I was being difficult when I said there just wasn't time.
The worst part is that the changes weakened the visual dramatic impact but
were more conventional.
Now I want to write a little paper setting forth designer's professional
standards. It isn't that I don't know what most are but I don't know if they
are enumerated anywhere. Are they? Please help, both scholars and
practitioners. Audy

in the high boonies of Central Texas


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Re: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS

2008-04-14 Thread Sylvia Rognstad
I had a difficult situation with a play I designed last summer.  The 
director didn't have much of a clue what he wanted before the rehearsal 
process started but he did have one conceptual concept he wanted 
visualized by the costumes and I agreed it would be a good one, so I 
designed the show around that.  The play only had 2 actors, one male, 
one female (The Last Five Years) and when rehearsals started, they, 
especially the woman, started suggesting costume ideas.  At that point, 
the director more or less submitted to their-mainly her--ideas and my 
ideas kind of flew out the window.  It was a shopped show and one 
weekend the woman even went to a store and bought some things she 
liked, to bring back and show me.  I was getting rather frustrated and 
disappointed by then but tried to go with the flow and I actually did 
appreciate their input, since they knew more about their characters 
than I did through rehearsing their parts.I guess I've been in the 
business enough by now to know do this, although it would have been 
impossible if the costumes had been built.

So I sympathize with you and your situation.  Fortunately it hasn't 
happened very often that the actors want to design their own costumes.  
On one of the other plays I also designed last summer one actress asked 
for a different color fabric after I had already purchased it, but we 
had a big enough budget that I could do so.

Several years ago I was draping a show that had cast an experienced 
Broadway actress who was of a certain age  and the designer had to 
design 3 different possible outfits for her to approve before his 
designs were finalized, so I know this happens a lot in our industry.   
Sometimes the actors are right and have good ideas.  Sometimes they are 
not and you have to do what it takes to please them, as I've found that 
directors usually bow to the actors, not the designer.

Sylvia

On Apr 14, 2008, at 12:37 PM, Sharon Collier wrote:

 This is why I feel regular production meetings are so important. At the
 first meeting, all the designers and the director get together and 
 discuss
 the direction of the show re: design, style, etc. As soon as the show 
 is
 cast, meet again and make any changes (if the leads won't look good in 
 the
 original ideas, change them ASAP) Then meet every week until tech 
 week. It
 keeps the director and producer from getting any surprises and you can 
 let
 folks know if their expectations aren't going to be met because of
 budget/time/lack of help, etc.
 As to professional standards, if the director/producer changes my 
 ideas so
 radically that I would be embarrassed to have my name on them, I do 
 the job
 as asked (I'm assuming you're getting paid), but ask that I not be 
 listed in
 the program as the designer, after all, if your designs have been 
 altered,
 they aren't a good reflection of your abilities.

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 On
 Behalf Of AVCHASE
 Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 7:46 PM
 To: h-costume posts
 Subject: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS

 Hi, All. The most recent show on which I  worked opened last last 
 Thursday.
 And over all its a good show. But some of the fallout has been very
 upsetting to me.
 The director invited me to do this show for her, her last show (she's 
 said
 that for for the last three years), and I've done them. Each time some 
 cast
 members have been down right vicious. This time was the worst.
 It occurred to me we expected different things as/from a designer. I'd 
 just
 assumed they all understood that I only did these shows to practice my
 craft, keep my abilities in shape, and explore my ideas. Maybe her 
 agenda
 was different?
 So I sent an email and asked what she had expected when she engaged a
 designer. She wrote back to me a very complimentary (damned by 
 praise-forget
 faint) note about my design capabilities; but-said I was overbearing, 
 didn't
 listen to the actress's ideas and was not willing to take suggestions 
 form
 the actresses. The ideas and suggestions were put forth a few days 
 before
 dress and production had gotten me no help for a small musical with 48
 changes in it. Some very small; most changes are full costume though. I
 found I was being difficult when I said there just wasn't time.
 The worst part is that the changes weakened the visual dramatic impact 
 but
 were more conventional.
 Now I want to write a little paper setting forth designer's 
 professional
 standards. It isn't that I don't know what most are but I don't know 
 if they
 are enumerated anywhere. Are they? Please help, both scholars and
 practitioners. Audy

 in the high boonies of Central Texas

 
 PeoplePC Online
 A better way to Internet
 http://www.peoplepc.com
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 h-costume mailing list
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Re: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS

2008-04-14 Thread AlbertCat
 
In a message dated 4/14/2008 3:01:46 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

as I've  found that 
directors usually bow to the actors, not the  designer.




 
And isn't it annoying. I want to just quit and let the actor do the whole  
showsee how she likes that. I'm tired of wardrobe being on the bottom rung  
of the ladder. [I hear it's not so much so in Europe, especially  Britain] 
When is she gonna complain about the props or change the color of  the 
wallpaper 
on the set?
 
I don't mind actor's inputbut I want the final decision to be mine if  my 
name is on it.
They don't hear me telling them how to read their lines, do  they?
 
 
This is why I ended up cutting and draping more than designing. The actual  
designer really appreciates what you do for  them.




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Re: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS

2008-04-14 Thread Catherine Kinsey
This has been a great thread, so nice to know one is not alone in
situations like this.
 
I think one of the problems, especially in community theater, is that
to often the costume designer is looked upon as sewing labor, not design
talent.  I started back doing a little theater a couple of years ago and
found every production to be different.  Communication is the key and I
learned a lot every time, which meant the second time working with a
particular director went a lot smoother :).  I also learned not to take
it to personally if I heard later through the grapevine that there was
something specific they may have wanted that didn't get done, or done
the way they might have preferred.  Budget, and time, was often the
critical crunch in these situations.  I know I've been really lucky with
most of the casts I've worked with too so I had fun.  I'd probably do
more except my hands just can't hold up anymore to the last minute push
there always is to get everything done.
 
Catherine
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Re: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS

2008-04-12 Thread LLOYD MITCHELL
Been there and done that.

A worse scean is when the costumes get voted on by the Mother's Aux. for the 
production...and the Director accepts their critique as the standard. Or the 
whole cast gets to decide which costumes make the cut.

Between the movies and the major two Costume companies, the visual 
expectation is very limited for the Popular theater of a general public. The 
idea of style interpretation sometimes extends to matching colors, prints, 
assessories and such to the exact  picture on the Pattern cover or to a 
particular garment from the film.  Very frustrating. Making Cartoon costumes 
is not fun for one who may have a better view of the historical aspects of 
how the style (generic) clothes and compliments the character being 
costumed. It took me several years to learn to pick my battles and to try 
to maintain an integrity of Design for a particular production.

In working with some cast members, I fought for their trust by reminding 
them that my  name Too would be on the program; if they didn't look good or 
the character was inappropriatly clothed, I would get the criticism first.

 We spend a fair bit of time on this List with personal critiques of the 
movies and other productions re Costume; it is often pointed out that 
directors and actors live in a kind of fantasy world and that Design 
integrity is least in their expectation.

For myself, in agreeing to do a production, I stressed Interpretation as a 
major starting point for the Design development.  With some duds and a 
larger number of successes, I managed to get my own share of plaudits that 
gave me courage to move forward for the next time. (And there were many 
times when in the company of tech staff  it was said that I saved the 
show.)

Guess one might remind the Director that theye can always Rent from a 
'professional' theater supply house , Cost and Style be @#$^%.  Funny, when 
paying the Rental company how few complaints are given re Desigh and Fit!

KSM

- Original Message - 
From: AVCHASE [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: h-costume posts h-costume@mail.indra.com
Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 10:46 PM
Subject: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS


 Hi, All. The most recent show on which I  worked opened last last 
 Thursday. And over all its a good show. But some of the fallout has been 
 very upsetting to me.
 The director invited me to do this show for her, her last show (she's said 
 that for for the last three years), and I've done them. Each time some 
 cast members have been down right vicious. This time was the worst.
 It occurred to me we expected different things as/from a designer. I'd 
 just assumed they all understood that I only did these shows to practice 
 my craft, keep my abilities in shape, and explore my ideas. Maybe her 
 agenda was different?
 So I sent an email and asked what she had expected when she engaged a 
 designer. She wrote back to me a very complimentary (damned by 
 praise-forget faint) note about my design capabilities; but-said I was 
 overbearing, didn't listen to the actress's ideas and was not willing to 
 take suggestions form the actresses. The ideas and suggestions were put 
 forth a few days before dress and production had gotten me no help for a 
 small musical with 48 changes in it. Some very small; most changes are 
 full costume though. I found I was being difficult when I said there just 
 wasn't time.
 The worst part is that the changes weakened the visual dramatic impact but 
 were more conventional.
 Now I want to write a little paper setting forth designer's professional 
 standards. It isn't that I don't know what most are but I don't know if 
 they are enumerated anywhere. Are they? Please help, both scholars and 
 practitioners. Audy

 in the high boonies of Central Texas

 
 PeoplePC Online
 A better way to Internet
 http://www.peoplepc.com
 ___
 h-costume mailing list
 h-costume@mail.indra.com
 http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume 

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Re: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS

2008-04-12 Thread Ruth Anne Baumgartner
 opening, worked  
out a costume sequence for the women characters that would  
accommodate the time constraints for the necessary changes, and got  
costumes on everyone by opening night that were comfortable,  
compatible with the show's vision and with the style of the set, and  
period-suggestive if not absolutely period on all counts. (Several  
days before we opened, while we were in the final frenzy of getting  
costumes done, the designer called the costumes mistress and left a  
message that she had quit the show!)

Audiences raved about the show--acting, set, costumes, atmosphere,  
interpretation, all of it.

Several weeks after the show closed, the costumer-errant called the  
costumes mistress to tell us all how unprofessional we had been and  
say that she had found us impossible to work with. She also said  
she'd leave the loaned books on her porch for the costumes mistress  
to pick up.

This summer I'm directing The Tempest, and luckily my usual costumer  
(also referred to as costumes mistress in above scenario) is feeling  
well recovered and will be working with me as usual.

So I'd say Yes, we do need some statement about the role of the  
costumes designer and the interaction between designer and director-- 
taking all participants into account: designer, actors, and director!  
(possibly with an appended checklist called signs that your costumer/ 
actor/director may be insane!)

Oh, thanks for your patience in reading this--I hadn't put it  
together before, and it's been a good catharsis for me!

--Ruth Anne Baumgartner
scholar gypsy and amateur costumer
On Apr 12, 2008, at 8:50 AM, LLOYD MITCHELL wrote:

 Been there and done that.

 A worse scean is when the costumes get voted on by the Mother's  
 Aux. for the
 production...and the Director accepts their critique as the  
 standard. Or the
 whole cast gets to decide which costumes make the cut.

 Between the movies and the major two Costume companies, the visual
 expectation is very limited for the Popular theater of a general  
 public. The
 idea of style interpretation sometimes extends to matching colors,  
 prints,
 assessories and such to the exact  picture on the Pattern cover or  
 to a
 particular garment from the film.  Very frustrating. Making Cartoon  
 costumes
 is not fun for one who may have a better view of the historical  
 aspects of
 how the style (generic) clothes and compliments the character being
 costumed. It took me several years to learn to pick my battles  
 and to try
 to maintain an integrity of Design for a particular production.

 In working with some cast members, I fought for their trust by  
 reminding
 them that my  name Too would be on the program; if they didn't look  
 good or
 the character was inappropriatly clothed, I would get the criticism  
 first.

  We spend a fair bit of time on this List with personal critiques  
 of the
 movies and other productions re Costume; it is often pointed out that
 directors and actors live in a kind of fantasy world and that Design
 integrity is least in their expectation.

 For myself, in agreeing to do a production, I stressed  
 Interpretation as a
 major starting point for the Design development.  With some duds and a
 larger number of successes, I managed to get my own share of  
 plaudits that
 gave me courage to move forward for the next time. (And there  
 were many
 times when in the company of tech staff  it was said that I saved the
 show.)

 Guess one might remind the Director that theye can always Rent from a
 'professional' theater supply house , Cost and Style be @#$^%.   
 Funny, when
 paying the Rental company how few complaints are given re Desigh  
 and Fit!

 KSM

 - Original Message -
 From: AVCHASE [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: h-costume posts h-costume@mail.indra.com
 Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 10:46 PM
 Subject: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS


 Hi, All. The most recent show on which I  worked opened last last
 Thursday. And over all its a good show. But some of the fallout  
 has been
 very upsetting to me.
 The director invited me to do this show for her, her last show  
 (she's said
 that for for the last three years), and I've done them. Each time  
 some
 cast members have been down right vicious. This time was the worst.
 It occurred to me we expected different things as/from a designer.  
 I'd
 just assumed they all understood that I only did these shows to  
 practice
 my craft, keep my abilities in shape, and explore my ideas. Maybe her
 agenda was different?
 So I sent an email and asked what she had expected when she engaged a
 designer. She wrote back to me a very complimentary (damned by
 praise-forget faint) note about my design capabilities; but-said I  
 was
 overbearing, didn't listen to the actress's ideas and was not  
 willing to
 take suggestions form the actresses. The ideas and suggestions  
 were put
 forth a few days before dress and production had gotten me no help  
 for a
 small musical with 48

Re: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS

2008-04-12 Thread Chris Laning
These experiences suggest that both designers and directors would be  
happier in the end if, whatever the expectations are, they were  
*written down* and agreed on ahead of time.

A designer might not be completely happy, but both designer and  
director might be far less *stressed* to know ahead of time that, for  
instance, the leading lady gets to dictate her own colors and will  
provide her own undergarments. (The designer is of course free to  
think Victorian corset for Shakespeare? Ha! in the privacy of his  
or her own mind)

I'm sure the collective mind can cheerfully provide a list of common  
things that go wrong if anyone wants to write up guidelines for what  
might be useful in such an agreement ;) (That is, if there isn't  
already such a thing available...)

Flaky employees who don't meet deadlines, however are endemic in all  
ines of work and are really another matter. That's a matter of  
someone not meeting the terms of something they already HAVE agreed  
to. Community theater directors may just be more out of luck on this  
than most people because they so often don't have anyone else they  
can really turn to if the costumer flakes out.


OChris Laning [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Davis, California
+ http://paternoster-row.org - http://paternosters.blogspot.com




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Re: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS

2008-04-12 Thread Jean Waddie
Chris Laning wrote:
 These experiences suggest that both designers and directors would be  
 happier in the end if, whatever the expectations are, they were  
 *written down* and agreed on ahead of time.
I absolutely agree.  My husband and a group of friends build sets for 
amateur theatre, so I've been reading this thread from the other side, 
as it were.  Having had less and less time to build bigger and bigger 
sets in recent years, the latest show was an absolute monster - two 
structures, 20 ft high, 20ft wide and 8ft deep(just to have space for 
enough buttressing), which the director originally wanted to move in 
sight during scenes!   They  built it,  securely enough that the  
theatre's resident stage manager  allowed them to use it and move it, 
which was in question until the technical rehearsal, but only with the 
curtains closed and all cast off stage - but they have now  written down 
conditions making clear that they can only do so much if just presented 
with plans at 6 weeks notice, and how much better it could be if they 
were involved in discussions about design and movement requirements at 
an early stage.  Clearly understood expectations are always where it's at!

Jean

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[h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS

2008-04-11 Thread AVCHASE
Hi, All. The most recent show on which I  worked opened last last Thursday. And 
over all its a good show. But some of the fallout has been very upsetting to me.
The director invited me to do this show for her, her last show (she's said that 
for for the last three years), and I've done them. Each time some cast members 
have been down right vicious. This time was the worst.
It occurred to me we expected different things as/from a designer. I'd just 
assumed they all understood that I only did these shows to practice my craft, 
keep my abilities in shape, and explore my ideas. Maybe her agenda was 
different?
So I sent an email and asked what she had expected when she engaged a designer. 
She wrote back to me a very complimentary (damned by praise-forget faint) note 
about my design capabilities; but-said I was overbearing, didn't listen to the 
actress's ideas and was not willing to take suggestions form the actresses. The 
ideas and suggestions were put forth a few days before dress and production had 
gotten me no help for a small musical with 48 changes in it. Some very small; 
most changes are full costume though. I found I was being difficult when I said 
there just wasn't time.
The worst part is that the changes weakened the visual dramatic impact but were 
more conventional.
Now I want to write a little paper setting forth designer's professional 
standards. It isn't that I don't know what most are but I don't know if they 
are enumerated anywhere. Are they? Please help, both scholars and 
practitioners. Audy

in the high boonies of Central Texas


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Re: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS

2008-04-11 Thread Paula Praxis

Hi All,  I too do productions for a, very dear to me, director - I've been 
doing this for the last 5 years - one to two shows a year, usually one major 
one and a smaller production.  I've spent alot of time on the net researching 
each show and period but have never come upon a professional standards list 
or site.  
  I usually have complete control over the design with the directors in put 
when she feels I am not in tune with her vision - however we are amazingly in 
tune in that aspect.  The only show I have done with another director was 
extremely stressfull and disorganized.  There were a small handfull of very 
self-important actors whom I couldn't please no matter what I did.  Then on 
opening night the co-director (didn't show up till Tech WeeK) completely 
changed the opening scene wardrobe substituting costumes that were scheduled 
for the end of the the show - this without telling me.  Needless to say this 
threw off the continuity of the wardrobe changes.  What do you do in a 
situation like this?  Professional Standards might have given me a direction. 
 I know I won't work with this group again.
Anniecat16 Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 21:46:16 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: 
h-costume@mail.indra.com Subject: [h-cost] DESIGNER PROFESSIONAL STANDARDS  
Hi, All. The most recent show on which I worked opened last last Thursday. And 
over all its a good show. But some of the fallout has been very upsetting to 
me. The director invited me to do this show for her, her last show (she's said 
that for for the last three years), and I've done them. Each time some cast 
members have been down right vicious. This time was the worst. It occurred to 
me we expected different things as/from a designer. I'd just assumed they all 
understood that I only did these shows to practice my craft, keep my abilities 
in shape, and explore my ideas. Maybe her agenda was different? So I sent an 
email and asked what she had expected when she engaged a designer. She wrote 
back to me a very complimentary (damned by praise-forget faint) note about my 
design capabilities; but-said I was overb!
 earing, didn't listen to the actress's ideas and was not willing to take 
suggestions form the actresses. The ideas and suggestions were put forth a few 
days before dress and production had gotten me no help for a small musical with 
48 changes in it. Some very small; most changes are full costume though. I 
found I was being difficult when I said there just wasn't time. The worst part 
is that the changes weakened the visual dramatic impact but were more 
conventional. Now I want to write a little paper setting forth designer's 
professional standards. It isn't that I don't know what most are but I don't 
know if they are enumerated anywhere. Are they? Please help, both scholars and 
practitioners. Audy  in the high boonies of Central Texas  
 PeoplePC Online A better way to 
Internet http://www.peoplepc.com 
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