Re: [h-cost] Re:18c stays

2006-02-07 Thread Kristin
Mia,

Thank you for the deep breath!

I think I'll start with the plastic wire ties, since I was able to get them
at Home Depot a few minutes away from my office.  That should get me
started, and then we'll see where I go from there.  I'm really doing this
for my own pleasure.  I don't have any friends who are into re-enacting or
costuming... so I'm a bit of an oddity within my circle of friends.  I'm a
bit of an oddity anyway :)

I finally got the skirt sewn onto the bodice over the weekend.  Now I'm
working on sewing hooks and eyes to the bodice.  I've decided that this is
my learning gown... I'm getting it done so that I can figure out what's
wrong with it.  I can already see that the sleeves are not nearly tight
enough... and I gather that there generally weren't side seams in the
bodice, but that they were a bit further back, behind the arm.  I haven't
sewn much of anything in such a long time, that I'm really enjoying myself!

I'm in the Philadelphia area (just outside the city limits).

Kristin

On 2/2/06, Mia Dappert [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hey Kristin,

 First, take a deep breath,  Then decide what direction you want, or even
 think you might want to go in.  This will help you make your boning and
 pattern decisions.

 Just for the pleasure of doing it?  Only wearing it once a year, indoors
 in air conditioning?  Don't need much support?  Plastic boning is probably
 OK,
 Wearing it all day, all weekend at a reenactment?  Working and bending in
 it doing laundry at a museum site?  A little more bosom to support?  All
 your friends are hyper authenic?  Different choices.

 I saw you are in PA.  Where?  Some of the 18 cent reenactor folks run
 workshops in that NY/PA/MD area.  Being in NC, I'm too far away to take
 advantage of them, but they might fit your ticket.

 Your e-friend MIa in Far off Charlotte, NC


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Re: [h-cost] Re:18c stays

2006-02-07 Thread aquazoo
 I'm in the Philadelphia area (just outside the city limits).

 Wow, you are right in the thick of a lot of resources!  Beth Rump, I
think she's with the Chadds Ford museum, sponsored a workshop.  Deb
Peterson of Past Masters has run stays workshops.  Last year there
was a ladies only event at Brandywine, and I think they will do it
again this year.

 All the details can be found in the archives of 18cWoman, which is a
Yahoo group.

 -Carol

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[h-cost] Re:18c stays

2006-02-02 Thread Mia Dappert
Hey Kristin,
   
  First, take a deep breath,  Then decide what direction you want, or even 
think you might want to go in.  This will help you make your boning and pattern 
decisions.  
   
  Just for the pleasure of doing it?  Only wearing it once a year, indoors in 
air conditioning?  Don't need much support?  Plastic boning is probably OK,  
  Wearing it all day, all weekend at a reenactment?  Working and bending in it 
doing laundry at a museum site?  A little more bosom to support?  All your 
friends are hyper authenic?  Different choices.
   
  I saw you are in PA.  Where?  Some of the 18 cent reenactor folks run 
workshops in that NY/PA/MD area.  Being in NC, I'm too far away to take 
advantage of them, but they might fit your ticket.  
   
  Your e-friend MIa in Far off Charlotte, NC


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Re: [h-cost] Re: 18c stays

2006-02-01 Thread Kristin
Okay, this is overwhelming!

So, basically, there are two easy patterns out there:  JP Ryan and
Butterick.

And from all the discussion, it looks like there are a variety of
preferences for the boning:

- cable ties
- reed
- metal
- plastic (but it sounds like this is not the ideal option, since plastic is
sweaty no matter where you live).

Well, I guess as I work on finishing the current garment, I'll start
planning for the corset... at least the first one.  At this point, I suppose
I'm just making a costume, but as I continue and learn, I'll be able
to construct things a little more authentically.

Our winter in Eastern PA has been fairly mild... it actually hit the 60's
this week!

Kristin

On 1/31/06, Mia Dappert [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 Hi Mia,

 The petticoat is cotton, but with a nice sateen to it. I thought it would
 at least imitate the look of silk to a certain extent.

 I'd really like to have a more authentic pair of stays before starting a
 second outfit. I've been thinking about trying to draft my own pattern -
 but haven't been really sure where to start. The other question, is
 whether
 to use the plastic boning, or go the metal route... and then which type...
 and how does one get the right sizes? Tin-snips? I've already purchased a
 yard of duck-cloth, and a couple of yards of cotton twill in white and
 red.

 I'm just doing this to do it. I suppose I could use it for halloween next
 year... although a couple people have suggested using it as a wedding
 dress. I made my own dress for my first marriage, so I've been trying to
 avoid thinking about the possibility of making another one... although I
 do
 have about 10 yards of some gorgeous white cotton damask. Hmmm... a
 sacque? I suppose, once I get more comfortable making several items, I may
 risk making something out of silk... but until then, I'll stick with
 what's
 affordable.

 Kristin


 Oh stays..., I've done several, but since I'm an active reenactor, and
 trying to progress to a more authentic reenactor, my solutions, might not be
 your solutions.
 Like I said, the butterick pattern seems to be good, especially for 3rd
 quarter or so 18th c. Making 18c stays is not as hard as one might
 think.  just somewhat time consuming.  And I always have challenges with the
 fit. For the stays I've done I've,
 1.  used the J.P Ryan patterns (very nice- and gives that good ice cream
 cone shape.)  I used metal and cable ties and that stringy box binding stuff
 that is almost like whale bone...this is not a good description, but I
 really don't know how to do better.  These were really nice.
 2.  used the later 18c pattern from Hunnicut,  and blew it up on a copy
 machine.  these were nice too.  I used basket cane and metal bones at the
 stress points.  These were nice too
 3.  Back to JP Ryan for the pattern, bound in leather, wool covered, fully
 boned, cable ties and metal in stress points, cane everywhere else.  They
 are really beautiful.
 3.  on the table to do now.  the butterick pattern, cut out in linen, will
 be halfboned with ?

 All done on the machine

 For me basket caning works, but i am frequently out in the heat of a North
 Carolina Summer.  Anything Plastic just doesn't breathe enough for me.  I've
 never had a piece of cane break.  and boy does it support!!

 Choice of patterns ...JP Ryan is good, the butterick is good.  I don't
 have the skills to draft one from scratch and have it come out looking like
 I want it to.

 Again all these choices are based on where you are wearing it, and what
 you want it for.  Costume and just for fun has different needs than
 reenactor and museum work.

 18c Mia in Charlotte, NC  where there is no sign of winter.  Boy i'm not
 looking forward to another hot summer... gotta get those linen stays done.




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Re: [h-cost] Re: 18c stays

2006-02-01 Thread Carol Kocian

And from all the discussion, it looks like there are a variety of
preferences for the boning:

- cable ties
- reed
- metal


1/4 white steel
1/2 white steel
1/4 spiral
1/2 spiral


- plastic


Dritz featherboning
1/4 Rigiline
1/2 Rigiline
Wissner (the German type) in several widths and thicknesses
And there is another type - I remember seeing it sold by Grannd Garb.

(but it sounds like this is not the ideal option, since plastic is 
sweaty no matter where you live).


 It's all sweaty.  Metal does not breathe, though I suppose the 
spiral type is more permeable than the white steel.  Rigiline is also 
a woven thing, but it's nylon  polyester.


 A lot of it is a matter of body type and the amount of support 
wanted.  They had fully-boned and half-boned stays.  Half-boned will 
breathe more no matter what boning material is used.


 I never had a problem with sweaty stays - I find a linen shift 
underneath is quite comfy.  At an outdoor event in 90 degrees, 
everyone is hot no matter what they are wearing.  A handkerchief also 
keeps for sun protection.


 -Carol
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[h-cost] Re: 18c stays

2006-01-31 Thread Mia Dappert

Hi Mia,

The petticoat is cotton, but with a nice sateen to it. I thought it would
at least imitate the look of silk to a certain extent.

I'd really like to have a more authentic pair of stays before starting a
second outfit. I've been thinking about trying to draft my own pattern -
but haven't been really sure where to start. The other question, is whether
to use the plastic boning, or go the metal route... and then which type...
and how does one get the right sizes? Tin-snips? I've already purchased a
yard of duck-cloth, and a couple of yards of cotton twill in white and red.

I'm just doing this to do it. I suppose I could use it for halloween next
year... although a couple people have suggested using it as a wedding
dress. I made my own dress for my first marriage, so I've been trying to
avoid thinking about the possibility of making another one... although I do
have about 10 yards of some gorgeous white cotton damask. Hmmm... a
sacque? I suppose, once I get more comfortable making several items, I may
risk making something out of silk... but until then, I'll stick with what's
affordable.

Kristin


  Oh stays..., I've done several, but since I'm an active reenactor, and trying 
to progress to a more authentic reenactor, my solutions, might not be your 
solutions.
  Like I said, the butterick pattern seems to be good, especially for 3rd 
quarter or so 18th c. Making 18c stays is not as hard as one might think.  just 
somewhat time consuming.  And I always have challenges with the fit. For the 
stays I've done I've, 
  1.  used the J.P Ryan patterns (very nice- and gives that good ice cream cone 
shape.)  I used metal and cable ties and that stringy box binding stuff that is 
almost like whale bone...this is not a good description, but I really don't 
know how to do better.  These were really nice.
  2.  used the later 18c pattern from Hunnicut,  and blew it up on a copy 
machine.  these were nice too.  I used basket cane and metal bones at the 
stress points.  These were nice too
  3.  Back to JP Ryan for the pattern, bound in leather, wool covered, fully 
boned, cable ties and metal in stress points, cane everywhere else.  They are 
really beautiful.
  3.  on the table to do now.  the butterick pattern, cut out in linen, will be 
halfboned with ?
   
  All done on the machine
   
  For me basket caning works, but i am frequently out in the heat of a North 
Carolina Summer.  Anything Plastic just doesn't breathe enough for me.  I've 
never had a piece of cane break.  and boy does it support!!
   
  Choice of patterns ...JP Ryan is good, the butterick is good.  I don't have 
the skills to draft one from scratch and have it come out looking like I want 
it to.  
   
  Again all these choices are based on where you are wearing it, and what you 
want it for.  Costume and just for fun has different needs than reenactor and 
museum work.
   
  18c Mia in Charlotte, NC  where there is no sign of winter.  Boy i'm not 
looking forward to another hot summer... gotta get those linen stays done.




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[h-cost] Re:18c

2006-01-30 Thread Mia Dappert


Message: 1
Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2006 19:15:57 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Re:Here's my show and tell
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

Kristin, that dress looks like a great start. The fabric for your bodice 
doesn't look out of period to me, although I'm not an expert on that period. 
And 
I think cotton's okay for 18th Century United States, although it was illegal 
to import it in most of Europe. 

Are you hand-quilting the skirt? What a clever idea, to base the quilting 
pattern on the fabric print!

Tea Rose

P.S. Bjarne, I think $100 is a steal for your work. Lots of women spend that 
kind of money on handbags which were not handmade by an artist. Fancy 
handbags are in right now, so you could charge a lot more than that, if you 
wanted 
to.

   
  Kristin 
   
  Very nice, Now, if you're ready to go the authentic route..
   
  The quilted petticoat is great,  I really want one of those, and never seem 
to have the time..  Is is silk?
   
  For stays, look at the butterick pattern, .  I forget the# .  If you want to 
go more authentic, Mara Riley who is on this list sometimes has really good 
directions to go that way, otherwise , it is a simple pattern that you can find 
for 99 cents sometimes.  
   
  Cotton is a constant source of discussion, which is why I stay away from it., 
but then, I'm on the dark side of authentic, rather than heading to the light 
of straight costume
   
  Are you just doing it for the doing, or are you going to use it somewhere?
   
  18c Mia in Charlotte, NC



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Re: [h-cost] Re:18c

2006-01-30 Thread Kristin
Hi Mia,

The petticoat is cotton, but with a nice sateen to it.  I thought it would
at least imitate the look of silk to a certain extent.

I'd really like to have a more authentic pair of stays before starting a
second outfit.  I've been thinking about trying to draft my own pattern -
but haven't been really sure where to start.  The other question, is whether
to use the plastic boning, or go the metal route... and then which type...
and how does one get the right sizes?  Tin-snips?  I've already purchased a
yard of duck-cloth, and a couple of yards of cotton twill in white and red.

I'm just doing this to do it.  I suppose I could use it for halloween next
year... although a couple people have suggested using it as a wedding
dress.  I made my own dress for my first marriage, so I've been trying to
avoid thinking about the possibility of making another one... although I do
have about 10 yards of some gorgeous white cotton damask.  Hmmm... a
sacque?  I suppose, once I get more comfortable making several items, I may
risk making something out of silk... but until then, I'll stick with what's
affordable.

Kristin


On 1/30/06, Mia Dappert [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



 Message: 1
 Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2006 19:15:57 EST
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [h-cost] Re:Here's my show and tell
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

 Kristin, that dress looks like a great start. The fabric for your bodice
 doesn't look out of period to me, although I'm not an expert on that
 period. And
 I think cotton's okay for 18th Century United States, although it was
 illegal
 to import it in most of Europe.

 Are you hand-quilting the skirt? What a clever idea, to base the quilting
 pattern on the fabric print!

 Tea Rose

 P.S. Bjarne, I think $100 is a steal for your work. Lots of women spend
 that
 kind of money on handbags which were not handmade by an artist. Fancy
 handbags are in right now, so you could charge a lot more than that, if
 you wanted
 to.


 Kristin

 Very nice, Now, if you're ready to go the authentic route..

 The quilted petticoat is great,  I really want one of those, and never
 seem to have the time..  Is is silk?

 For stays, look at the butterick pattern, .  I forget the# .  If you want
 to go more authentic, Mara Riley who is on this list sometimes has really
 good directions to go that way, otherwise , it is a simple pattern that you
 can find for 99 cents sometimes.

 Cotton is a constant source of discussion, which is why I stay away from
 it., but then, I'm on the dark side of authentic, rather than heading to the
 light of straight costume

 Are you just doing it for the doing, or are you going to use it somewhere?

 18c Mia in Charlotte, NC



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Re: [h-cost] Re:18c

2006-01-30 Thread Susan Data-Samtak

Boning for stays and corsets can be ordered from www.corsetmaking.com

Susan

Slow down. The trail is the thing, not the end of the trail. Travel
too fast and you miss all you are traveling for.  - Ride the Dark
Trail by Louis L'Amour

On Jan 30, 2006, at 1:54 PM, Kristin wrote:


Hi Mia,

The petticoat is cotton, but with a nice sateen to it.  I thought it 
would

at least imitate the look of silk to a certain extent.

I'd really like to have a more authentic pair of stays before starting 
a
second outfit.  I've been thinking about trying to draft my own 
pattern -
but haven't been really sure where to start.  The other question, is 
whether
to use the plastic boning, or go the metal route... and then which 
type...
and how does one get the right sizes?  Tin-snips?  I've already 
purchased a
yard of duck-cloth, and a couple of yards of cotton twill in white and 
red.


I'm just doing this to do it.  I suppose I could use it for halloween 
next

year... although a couple people have suggested using it as a wedding
dress.  I made my own dress for my first marriage, so I've been trying 
to
avoid thinking about the possibility of making another one... although 
I do

have about 10 yards of some gorgeous white cotton damask.  Hmmm... a
sacque?  I suppose, once I get more comfortable making several items, 
I may
risk making something out of silk... but until then, I'll stick with 
what's

affordable.

Kristin


On 1/30/06, Mia Dappert [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:




Message: 1
Date: Sun, 29 Jan 2006 19:15:57 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Re:Here's my show and tell
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

Kristin, that dress looks like a great start. The fabric for your 
bodice

doesn't look out of period to me, although I'm not an expert on that
period. And
I think cotton's okay for 18th Century United States, although it was
illegal
to import it in most of Europe.

Are you hand-quilting the skirt? What a clever idea, to base the 
quilting

pattern on the fabric print!

Tea Rose

P.S. Bjarne, I think $100 is a steal for your work. Lots of women 
spend

that
kind of money on handbags which were not handmade by an artist. Fancy
handbags are in right now, so you could charge a lot more than that, 
if

you wanted
to.


Kristin

Very nice, Now, if you're ready to go the authentic route..

The quilted petticoat is great,  I really want one of those, and never
seem to have the time..  Is is silk?

For stays, look at the butterick pattern, .  I forget the# .  If you 
want
to go more authentic, Mara Riley who is on this list sometimes has 
really
good directions to go that way, otherwise , it is a simple pattern 
that you

can find for 99 cents sometimes.

Cotton is a constant source of discussion, which is why I stay away 
from
it., but then, I'm on the dark side of authentic, rather than heading 
to the

light of straight costume

Are you just doing it for the doing, or are you going to use it 
somewhere?


18c Mia in Charlotte, NC



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[h-cost] Re:18c

2006-01-30 Thread sunshine_buchler
 
 I'd really like to have a more authentic pair of stays before 
 starting a second outfit.  I've been thinking about trying to 
 draft my own pattern - but haven't been really sure where to 
 start.  The other question, is whether to use the plastic 
 boning, or go the metal route... and then which type...
 and how does one get the right sizes?  Tin-snips?  I've 
 already purchased a yard of duck-cloth, and a couple of yards 
 of cotton twill in white and red.

I'd recommend against the plastic route. At least against the plastic boning 
you can get at JoAnn's -- I'm pretty curvy and have had two types of trouble 
with the plastic stuff: (1) in the heat of wearing it (and possibly lacing 
tight enough so my chest stays put - I have about a 10 difference between 
ribcage and bust line - almost entirely in the front - the plastic melts into 
my curvy shape, rather then making me nicely tubular. (2) The ends of the 
plastic tweak and buckle something' awful (and they _hurt_ when they do it, 
too!).

I've used the metal boning and bought sized-to-fit. Which is not the cheapest 
route, by a long shot but it is easy. Reed is also do-able, much cheaper and 
doesn't require fancy tools. You can get some from Saundra Ros Altman's Past 
Patterns - I got mine for this http://www.pastpatterns.com/030.html pattern 
kit, but I believe she sells them separately. I'm told you can get other 
size/shapes of reeds via basket weaving supply stores, but I haven't looked 
into that much yet.
Good luck!
-sunny



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Re: [h-cost] Re:18c

2006-01-30 Thread Dawn

Kristin wrote:


Hi Mia,

 The other question, is whether
to use the plastic boning, or go the metal route... and then which type...
and how does one get the right sizes?  Tin-snips?  I've already purchased a
yard of duck-cloth, and a couple of yards of cotton twill in white and red.



I thought that 18th century stays used whalebone, which would make the 
plastic boning a good substitute. Or cable ties, which can be had in 
bundles by the hundred from hardware stores. Cut with scissors.




Dawn



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Re: [h-cost] Re:18c

2006-01-30 Thread AlbertCat
 
In a message dated 1/30/2006 1:33:34 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Bjarne,  I think $100 is a steal for your work. 



 
That's for sure! Teenagers spend $300 to $1000s on polyester prom gowns  made 
in a factory in Indonesia! Anything Bjarne has made that I've seen on his  
web site is worth $1500 to $5000 easily. Notice I said that's what it's worth,  
not what some will pay. And even as far as worth, I might be underpricing  
considering the care and enthusiasm that goes into his  work.
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Re: [h-cost] Re:18c

2006-01-30 Thread Susan B. Farmer

Quoting [EMAIL PROTECTED]:



I'd recommend against the plastic route. At least against the plastic 
boning you can get at JoAnn's -- I'm pretty curvy and have had two 
types of trouble with the plastic stuff: (1) in the heat of wearing 
it (and possibly lacing tight enough so my chest stays put - I have 
about a 10 difference between ribcage and bust line - almost 
entirely in the front - the plastic melts into my curvy shape, 
rather then making me nicely tubular. (2) The ends of the plastic 
tweak and buckle something' awful (and they _hurt_ when they do it, 
too!).




Thanks for that piece of advice.  We have much the same problem -- I
boned an Italian bodice with That Stuff, and found that those ends do
indeed hurt where they decide to poke you -- and they *will* poke you
...  I had never tried an Elizabethan, but I want to.

Jerusha, filing away *very* useful information
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/


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Re: [h-cost] Re:18c

2006-01-30 Thread AlbertCat
 
In a message dated 1/30/2006 3:50:05 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

The  other question, is whether to use the plastic 
 boning, or go the metal  route


***
 
I prefer metal. In Honnisette's book she mixes the twosome metal in the  
front point...and scattered with plastic throughout the front pieces... to  
keep it rigid and at the CB for strength at the lacing. That seems OK to me  
too.
 
The whalebone in these things can be quite thick and as rigid as metal. And  
quite frankly they don't make metal boning as stiff as they used to, it is 
very  flexible. If you can get 1/8 metal boning. you might like that. On Last 
of the  Mohicans the boned jackets I made, and some corsets were boned with 
hoop  wiresometimes the 2 strips in their casing, sometimes taken out and  
used one at a time. The leads corsets were all 1/4 metal  boning.
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Re: [h-cost] Re:18c

2006-01-30 Thread Ailith Mackintosh
I use a combination of plastic and steel. Just make sure that the ends of 
the plastic are rounded (easy to do with kitchen shears). The combination 
works just fine for me and I wear a 26-28 US size.


My area of interest is 16th century Italian (just about everywhere except 
Venice).


With regards,
kate

- Original Message - 
From: Susan B. Farmer [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Historical Costume [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: [h-cost] Re:18c



Quoting [EMAIL PROTECTED]:



I'd recommend against the plastic route. At least against the plastic 
boning you can get at JoAnn's -- I'm pretty curvy and have had two types 
of trouble with the plastic stuff: (1) in the heat of wearing it (and 
possibly lacing tight enough so my chest stays put - I have about a 10 
difference between ribcage and bust line - almost entirely in the front - 
the plastic melts into my curvy shape, rather then making me nicely 
tubular. (2) The ends of the plastic tweak and buckle something' awful 
(and they _hurt_ when they do it, too!).




Thanks for that piece of advice.  We have much the same problem -- I
boned an Italian bodice with That Stuff, and found that those ends do
indeed hurt where they decide to poke you -- and they *will* poke you
...  I had never tried an Elizabethan, but I want to.

Jerusha, filing away *very* useful information
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/



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Re: [h-cost] Re:18c

2006-01-30 Thread Suzi Clarke

At 21:06 30/01/2006, you wrote:


In a message dated 1/30/2006 3:50:05 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

The  other question, is whether to use the plastic
 boning, or go the metal  route


***

I prefer metal. In Honnisette's book she mixes the twosome metal in the
front point...and scattered with plastic throughout the front pieces... to
keep it rigid and at the CB for strength at the lacing. That seems 
OK to me  too.


I've always made 18th century corsets with Rigilene and straight 
steel bones combined. They have been for ladies of many different 
sizes, and shapes, and I don't have a problem with bones poking if I 
melt the ends in a candle flame. You can buy caps, but they are 
very  thick. Someone once recommended the so called German boning - 
is that the same as your plastic boning? I don't like it.




The whalebone in these things can be quite thick and as rigid as metal. And
quite frankly they don't make metal boning as stiff as they used to, it is
very  flexible. If you can get 1/8 metal boning. you might like 
that. On Last

of the  Mohicans the boned jackets I made, and some corsets were boned with
hoop  wiresometimes the 2 strips in their casing, sometimes 
taken out and

used one at a time. The leads corsets were all 1/4 metal  boning.


I own a copy of an 18th century corset made with whalebone - 
obviously made before the ban - and as stated, it is quite solid and 
rigid. (But the whalebones cut through the linen, and dig in!!)


Suzi


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Re: [h-cost] Re:18c

2006-01-30 Thread Joan Jurancich

At 12:57 PM 1/30/2006, you wrote:

Quoting [EMAIL PROTECTED]:



I'd recommend against the plastic route. At least against the 
plastic boning you can get at JoAnn's -- I'm pretty curvy and have 
had two types of trouble with the plastic stuff: (1) in the heat of 
wearing it (and possibly lacing tight enough so my chest stays put 
- I have about a 10 difference between ribcage and bust line - 
almost entirely in the front - the plastic melts into my curvy 
shape, rather then making me nicely tubular. (2) The ends of the 
plastic tweak and buckle something' awful (and they _hurt_ when 
they do it, too!).


Thanks for that piece of advice.  We have much the same problem -- I
boned an Italian bodice with That Stuff, and found that those ends do
indeed hurt where they decide to poke you -- and they *will* poke you
...  I had never tried an Elizabethan, but I want to.

Jerusha, filing away *very* useful information


I never found the Rigilene to be useful at all, and certainly not for 
corsets.  I use cable ties that I buy at the hardware store (my 
current Elizabethan corset has them); cheap and easily available.  I 
get the 34 ones.  They can be cut with heavy craft scissors (or tin 
snips); the ends can be rounded with a coarse file (some people 
candle them, but I don't bother as it makes for lumpy ends).  As long 
as you make the stays about 1/2 inch shorter than the casings, they are fine.



Joan Jurancich
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 


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Re: [h-cost] Re:18c

2006-01-30 Thread michaela
 I never found the Rigilene to be useful at all, and certainly not for
 corsets.  I use cable ties that I buy at the hardware store (my
 current Elizabethan corset has them); cheap and easily available.  I
 get the 34 ones.  They can be cut with heavy craft scissors (or tin
 snips); the ends can be rounded with a coarse file (some people
 candle them, but I don't bother as it makes for lumpy ends).  As long
 as you make the stays about 1/2 inch shorter than the casings, they are
fine.

Kitchen scissors are what I use. I do one straight cut and two snips either
corner. It takes about 5seconds per bone;)

Of course I use the narrow kind as I find they are made softer than the
larger ties and so don't warp so much. I know it's counter intuative, but
there ya go;)

michaela
http://costumes.glittersweet.com



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RE: [h-cost] Re:18c

2006-01-30 Thread Sharon at Collierfam.com
Try Lacis, in Berkeley, Calif. For boning.
www.lacis.com

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 12:48 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [h-cost] Re:18c


 
 I'd really like to have a more authentic pair of stays before
 starting a second outfit.  I've been thinking about trying to 
 draft my own pattern - but haven't been really sure where to 
 start.  The other question, is whether to use the plastic 
 boning, or go the metal route... and then which type...
 and how does one get the right sizes?  Tin-snips?  I've 
 already purchased a yard of duck-cloth, and a couple of yards 
 of cotton twill in white and red.

I'd recommend against the plastic route. At least against the plastic boning
you can get at JoAnn's -- I'm pretty curvy and have had two types of trouble
with the plastic stuff: (1) in the heat of wearing it (and possibly lacing
tight enough so my chest stays put - I have about a 10 difference between
ribcage and bust line - almost entirely in the front - the plastic melts
into my curvy shape, rather then making me nicely tubular. (2) The ends of
the plastic tweak and buckle something' awful (and they _hurt_ when they do
it, too!).

I've used the metal boning and bought sized-to-fit. Which is not the
cheapest route, by a long shot but it is easy. Reed is also do-able, much
cheaper and doesn't require fancy tools. You can get some from Saundra Ros
Altman's Past Patterns - I got mine for this
http://www.pastpatterns.com/030.html pattern kit, but I believe she sells
them separately. I'm told you can get other size/shapes of reeds via basket
weaving supply stores, but I haven't looked into that much yet.
Good luck!
-sunny



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