Re: [h-cost] need help with Butterick B6074
Things got busy and I didn't get a chance to reply. On Fri, Feb 27, 2015 at 2:12 PM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote: Charlene, shoelaces sewn in the center front? What!? From the pictures, I can't see any laces in front. Good gosh, I wish I could see these instructions! LOL! The shoelace is sewn center-front *inside*. I'm guessing you tie it in the back to hold the bodice close the body. :-/ I think you should just toss the confusing instructions aside. Just. Stop. looking. :P Actually, I ditched the whole pattern. I honestly don't have to d*ck around with that one. Something going every night last week and now a bum finger (did you know food processor slicing discs are *really* sharp?). I picked up this one. The instructions and pieces are *much* better. Hopefully I'll get it done in time; otherwise, there's always my Italian Renn. :-) http://www.simplicity.com/p-2088-costumes.aspx Charlene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] need help with Butterick B6074
Thanks very much for including bust cup adjustments, Hope. As a D+ I often run into issues with commercial patterns. I’m used to taking the time but Regency is not my decade/s of custom. I have a stalled Regency (not a commercial one) which I could now bring out and finish thanks to your comments :) Humbly in your debt, ==Marjorie Wilser @..@ @..@ @..@ Three Toad Press http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Feb 27, 2015, at 12:21 PM, Hope Greenberg h...@uvm.edu wrote: On 2/27/15 1:13 PM, Carmen Beaudry wrote: Since this isn't my normal period of expertise, could someone tell me if this pattern is historically accurate, and what would have to be changed to make it HA? Butterick is getting better with their Regency patterns. That said, here is what I would change: ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] need help with Butterick B6074
On 3/2/15 8:58 PM, Marjorie Wilser wrote: Thanks very much for including bust cup adjustments, Hope. You're welcome! Let us know how it comes out. - Hope ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] need help with Butterick B6074
Since this isn't my normal period of expertise, could someone tell me if this pattern is historically accurate, and what would have to be changed to make it HA? Thanks, Carmen On 2/26/2015 11:25 PM, Sybella wrote: Well, I don't own this pattern and can't find a copy of the instructions online. But I'll give a stab at it. :) Looking at the Butterick site at the images for this regency gown, it looks like one ribbon goes in a casing on the neckline as a draw-string tie, one on the sleeve end and another under the bust. The latter two also through casings but sewn in at the seam or hem. For closure, the neckline ribbon is tied in the back and the hook and eye is in place the lower casing. (In another view, both casings have draw-string ties.) So, I think the narrow grosgrain ribbon is for the neckline. The 5/8th for the sleeve ends, and the 7/8th for the under-bust, where you'd want that to not to twist. http://butterick.mccall.com/b6074-products-48593.php?page_id=385 On Thu, Feb 26, 2015 at 10:48 PM, Charlene C charlene...@gmail.com wrote: It's been a while since I've used a major commerical pattern and I'm finding this one confusing. It seems I need three ribbons for View A: 1/4, 5/8 grosgrain, 7/8. The instructions mention ribbon in three places: steps 49, 57-59, and 66. What the instructions don't tell you is which ribbon to use at which step. I'm assuming the 1/4 is step 49 (sleeves), the 7/8 is steps 57-59 (attach skirt to bodice) and the 5/8 grograin is step 66 (neckline). Can anyone confirm this? At the moment, I can't visualize how steps 57-59 work; I'm hoping it will make more sense when I try it. I also don't quite understand how the finished dress fastens up. I know there's a hook and eye. I'm assuming you tie the ribbon at the neckline. What do you do with the shoelace attached to the inside center front; does it wrap to the back and tie? DEFINITELY not my usual time period. Thanks, Charlene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] need help with Butterick B6074
Well, for starters, the skirt gathers should all be at the back. You want the front of the skirt to be smooth and flat. The bodice, on the other hand, should be gathered in front, over the bust, and smooth at the back. (The shaping of the bodice pieces doesn't look quite right either, but I'm not enough of a pattern drafter to give advice on how to change them.) Emily On 2/27/2015 12:13 PM, Carmen Beaudry wrote: Since this isn't my normal period of expertise, could someone tell me if this pattern is historically accurate, and what would have to be changed to make it HA? Thanks, Carmen On 2/26/2015 11:25 PM, Sybella wrote: Well, I don't own this pattern and can't find a copy of the instructions online. But I'll give a stab at it. :) Looking at the Butterick site at the images for this regency gown, it looks like one ribbon goes in a casing on the neckline as a draw-string tie, one on the sleeve end and another under the bust. The latter two also through casings but sewn in at the seam or hem. For closure, the neckline ribbon is tied in the back and the hook and eye is in place the lower casing. (In another view, both casings have draw-string ties.) So, I think the narrow grosgrain ribbon is for the neckline. The 5/8th for the sleeve ends, and the 7/8th for the under-bust, where you'd want that to not to twist. http://butterick.mccall.com/b6074-products-48593.php?page_id=385 On Thu, Feb 26, 2015 at 10:48 PM, Charlene C charlene...@gmail.com wrote: It's been a while since I've used a major commerical pattern and I'm finding this one confusing. It seems I need three ribbons for View A: 1/4, 5/8 grosgrain, 7/8. The instructions mention ribbon in three places: steps 49, 57-59, and 66. What the instructions don't tell you is which ribbon to use at which step. I'm assuming the 1/4 is step 49 (sleeves), the 7/8 is steps 57-59 (attach skirt to bodice) and the 5/8 grograin is step 66 (neckline). Can anyone confirm this? At the moment, I can't visualize how steps 57-59 work; I'm hoping it will make more sense when I try it. I also don't quite understand how the finished dress fastens up. I know there's a hook and eye. I'm assuming you tie the ribbon at the neckline. What do you do with the shoelace attached to the inside center front; does it wrap to the back and tie? DEFINITELY not my usual time period. Thanks, Charlene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] need help with Butterick B6074
On Fri, Feb 27, 2015 at 1:25 AM, Sybella mae...@gmail.com wrote: For closure, the neckline ribbon is tied in the back and the hook and eye is in place the lower casing. (In another view, both casings have draw-string ties.) I get the neckline ribbon ties in back and the hook and eye, well, hooks. But there's also a shoelace sew into the center front where the bodice and skirt meet. I can only guess it goes around to the back and is tied. So, I think the narrow grosgrain ribbon is for the neckline. The 5/8th for the sleeve ends, and the 7/8th for the under-bust, where you'd want that to not to twist. The grosgrain is 5/8; the other two ribbons are called 1/4 ribbon and 7/8 ribbon trim. I was guessing the 5/8 grosgain at the neckline, the 1/4 ribbon at the sleeves and the 7/8 ribbon trim at the waist. Thanks, Charlene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] need help with Butterick B6074
On 2/27/15 1:13 PM, Carmen Beaudry wrote: Since this isn't my normal period of expertise, could someone tell me if this pattern is historically accurate, and what would have to be changed to make it HA? Butterick is getting better with their Regency patterns. That said, here is what I would change: 1) The skirt. The a-line cut of the skirt just doesn't make the dress hang right and the layout is usually a less efficient use of the fabric. I'm working with a friend on a more standard period cut that you can use without even having a pattern. It's still in draft and will eventually get some shots of the layout, but you are welcome to check it out: http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/greenberg-skirt.pdf This method gives you a nice (dancing!) width at the hem, no huge unflattering gathers bunched up in the front, and hangs just like authentic gowns because it's the way so many were actually cut then! 2) The neckline. Unless you have a very small bust, View A is going to be a problem. There's just not much fabric there. You could make the piece taller and lose the nice low-cut but that will make other fitting issues. Given the way it is cut so low in back as well, it's almost guaranteed to fall off your shoulders. Even the model is already having that happen! View A is better, though, as is, it is not flattering on many bodies (can look a bit saggy). Try this with View A: cut the back a bit higher, the front a bit lower, and before you sew it to the skirt experiment with how you spread out the gathers. You may want to push them apart in the middle and in from the sides. 3) A bit of customizing based on cup size: the side view of the model wearing View A shows the challenges with getting a good fit: she is leaning back and has her shoulders pulled back a bit so the front isn't saggy, but this makes the back kind of baggy. Here's a trick: if you are about an A-B-C cup you can cut the back a little shorter (a screenshot showing where the line can be is attached). If you are D and above, you may find you need to make the front of the bodice a tiny bit longer at the waist. The size/weight of the girls will counterbalance the back, bringing it up a bit so the fit is better. As always, the best advice is to get some cheap cotton/muslin/scraps and cut and sew the bodice out of that before cutting your good fabric (and the sleeves too if you have time - adding sleeves always changes the fit a bit). And the thing that will really make your gown come alive is a petticoat. It can be a simple one with straps - just cut it out the same as the skirt, pop on a simple waistband and a couple of straps and you've got it. Of course, a corset is always lovely but not something you necessarily want to tackle first thing. So, find a good supportive bra and hike the straps up a bit! - Hope ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] need help with Butterick B6074
On 2/27/15 3:21 PM, Hope Greenberg wrote: Here's a trick: if you are about an A-B-C cup you can cut the back a little shorter (a screenshot showing where the line can be is attached). And it's not crucial, but if the attachment didn't come through you can see it here: http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/regency/b6074.png - Hope ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] need help with Butterick B6074
On Fri, Feb 27, 2015 at 4:25 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: I think Sybella gave you a good answer. However, if the pattern instructions are that poorly written, I suggest you also let Butterick (McCall) know. You can't be the only frustrated user. I shudder to think of any newish sewers tackling this pattern. I'm strongly beginning to think I'll just wear modern clothes to the dance instead of a costume. I have only two weeks left to get this done (and that includes a fitting mock-up). Both views list fabric and lining. HOWEVER, and this took me quite some time to figure out, they're not the same layers between the views. For View B the fabric is the pink and it's lined (makes sense), but for View A the fabric is the net/mesh layer and the lining is the visible white layer. To my brain View A should be a white fabric layer with a net/mesh overlay. Bah! I chose this pattern because it was the only one I saw that had a neckline that would hide modern bra straps; for a once-a-year, does't-need-to-be-accurate thing I didn't want to mess with a corset. Charlene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] need help with Butterick B6074
Hm. It looks like the list is only sending me some of the messages in this conversation. Charlene took a quote from Ann's but I never received Ann's message at all! I wonder what else I'm missing. :( This isn't my period of interest either, so I cannot comment on historical accuracy. Charlene, shoelaces sewn in the center front? What!? From the pictures, I can't see any laces in front. Good gosh, I wish I could see these instructions! LOL! I think you should just toss the confusing instructions aside. Just. Stop. looking. :P Where the bodice meets the skirt, make a casing and put the grosgrain ribbon in. Put it in like you would elastic. (In this case, it's not a full circle. It's sewn closed at the back hem opening.) To finish it, add a hook and eye where that meets. The grosgrain ribbon would be your under-bust measurement, with some ease...and would make the A-line gown take the shape you want. Then, you'd be able to adjust the gathers where you'd want them. If you need a little more fullness for your bust, you have gathers...if you want a smoother front, you could push a little more of the gathers toward the back. The sleeve ends would be the same process; grosgrain ribbon put in like you would elastic. And honestly, since you just want a once a year, looks good enough gown, why not just use elastic there where no one would see it? On that note, why not just use elastic under the bust too? You'd certainly have a bit more ease of movement. I suggested that the 1/4 inch ribbon went into the neckline casing because wide ribbon doesn't tie and hold a knot very well. But, in my experience, I find satin ribbons to be horrible for this. The satin is too slick. If you can find grosgrain, the ridges might help it stay tied. Or perhaps some other type of cord? You can do this in 2 weeks!! Don't give up. :D On Fri, Feb 27, 2015 at 11:09 AM, Charlene C charlene...@gmail.com wrote: On Fri, Feb 27, 2015 at 4:25 AM, annbw...@aol.com wrote: I think Sybella gave you a good answer. However, if the pattern instructions are that poorly written, I suggest you also let Butterick (McCall) know. You can't be the only frustrated user. I shudder to think of any newish sewers tackling this pattern. I'm strongly beginning to think I'll just wear modern clothes to the dance instead of a costume. I have only two weeks left to get this done (and that includes a fitting mock-up). Both views list fabric and lining. HOWEVER, and this took me quite some time to figure out, they're not the same layers between the views. For View B the fabric is the pink and it's lined (makes sense), but for View A the fabric is the net/mesh layer and the lining is the visible white layer. To my brain View A should be a white fabric layer with a net/mesh overlay. Bah! I chose this pattern because it was the only one I saw that had a neckline that would hide modern bra straps; for a once-a-year, does't-need-to-be-accurate thing I didn't want to mess with a corset. Charlene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] need help with Butterick B6074
Charlene, shoelaces sewn in the center front? What!? From the pictures, I can't see any laces in front. Good gosh, I wish I could see these instructions! LOL! I wonder if shoelace is suggested because the diagonal braid will be a bit more flexible than ribbon? But yes, elastic. :-) One tip I remember, and I probably read it on H-costume, is that you may not want the high waistline to be snug. If you have any bit of a tummy, it will look pregnant. let it skim. Since you are talking about using a modern bra, you don't need the waistline to add any support. Look for a balconette bra. They have wide-set straps and a push-up effect. They're a great cheater to get the wide, square Regency neckline. -Carol ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] need help with Butterick B6074
I think Sybella gave you a good answer. However, if the pattern instructions are that poorly written, I suggest you also let Butterick (McCall) know. You can't be the only frustrated user. Ann Wass -Original Message- From: Charlene C charlene...@gmail.com To: h-costume h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Fri, Feb 27, 2015 1:49 am Subject: [h-cost] need help with Butterick B6074 It's been a while since I've used a major commerical pattern and I'm finding this one confusing. It seems I need three ribbons for View A: 1/4, 5/8 grosgrain, 7/8. The instructions mention ribbon in three places: steps 49, 57-59, and 66. What the instructions don't tell you is which ribbon to use at which step. I'm assuming the 1/4 is step 49 (sleeves), the 7/8 is steps 57-59 (attach skirt to bodice) and the 5/8 grograin is step 66 (neckline). Can anyone confirm this? At the moment, I can't visualize how steps 57-59 work; I'm hoping it will make more sense when I try it. I also don't quite understand how the finished dress fastens up. I know there's a hook and eye. I'm assuming you tie the ribbon at the neckline. What do you do with the shoelace attached to the inside center front; does it wrap to the back and tie? DEFINITELY not my usual time period. Thanks, Charlene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] need help with Butterick B6074
It's been a while since I've used a major commerical pattern and I'm finding this one confusing. It seems I need three ribbons for View A: 1/4, 5/8 grosgrain, 7/8. The instructions mention ribbon in three places: steps 49, 57-59, and 66. What the instructions don't tell you is which ribbon to use at which step. I'm assuming the 1/4 is step 49 (sleeves), the 7/8 is steps 57-59 (attach skirt to bodice) and the 5/8 grograin is step 66 (neckline). Can anyone confirm this? At the moment, I can't visualize how steps 57-59 work; I'm hoping it will make more sense when I try it. I also don't quite understand how the finished dress fastens up. I know there's a hook and eye. I'm assuming you tie the ribbon at the neckline. What do you do with the shoelace attached to the inside center front; does it wrap to the back and tie? DEFINITELY not my usual time period. Thanks, Charlene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] need help with Butterick B6074
Well, I don't own this pattern and can't find a copy of the instructions online. But I'll give a stab at it. :) Looking at the Butterick site at the images for this regency gown, it looks like one ribbon goes in a casing on the neckline as a draw-string tie, one on the sleeve end and another under the bust. The latter two also through casings but sewn in at the seam or hem. For closure, the neckline ribbon is tied in the back and the hook and eye is in place the lower casing. (In another view, both casings have draw-string ties.) So, I think the narrow grosgrain ribbon is for the neckline. The 5/8th for the sleeve ends, and the 7/8th for the under-bust, where you'd want that to not to twist. http://butterick.mccall.com/b6074-products-48593.php?page_id=385 On Thu, Feb 26, 2015 at 10:48 PM, Charlene C charlene...@gmail.com wrote: It's been a while since I've used a major commerical pattern and I'm finding this one confusing. It seems I need three ribbons for View A: 1/4, 5/8 grosgrain, 7/8. The instructions mention ribbon in three places: steps 49, 57-59, and 66. What the instructions don't tell you is which ribbon to use at which step. I'm assuming the 1/4 is step 49 (sleeves), the 7/8 is steps 57-59 (attach skirt to bodice) and the 5/8 grograin is step 66 (neckline). Can anyone confirm this? At the moment, I can't visualize how steps 57-59 work; I'm hoping it will make more sense when I try it. I also don't quite understand how the finished dress fastens up. I know there's a hook and eye. I'm assuming you tie the ribbon at the neckline. What do you do with the shoelace attached to the inside center front; does it wrap to the back and tie? DEFINITELY not my usual time period. Thanks, Charlene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
