Re: [h-cost]Canadian (Lattice) Smocking

2007-04-14 Thread Melanie Schuessler

De,

I'm afraid we must agree to disagree.  To my eyes this is definitely 
slashing or embroidery meant to look like slashing.  If you look at 
other depictions of slashing, you'll see the same look--lines that are 
heavier in the middle, narrower on the ends, and not connected:

http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownMan11.jpg
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/EdwardHoby1.jpg

Also, sleeves of strapwork (or even lattice smocking, should it turn out 
to have existed) are one thing, but a whole skirt of it seems less 
plausible.


If you look at depictions of strapwork, on the other hand, you see a 
completely different look.  The lines for the edges of the straps are 
even in thickness and connect to the next perpendicular strap so that 
it's clear they're passing over and under each other:

http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownMan2.jpg
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth4.jpg  (side of the bodice)

Melanie Schuessler


otsisto wrote:

If you look at the dress it is not slashing. It could be strips of velvet
woven together but I am more inclined to believe that it is lattice work.
The embroidery (or small pinking) and the spangles are emphisizing the the
woven look.
http://www.savvyseams.com/techniques/canadian.php

 http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth12.jpg

Please compare the first picture to the portrait's sleeve.

I know that there are two other portraits out there that show the sleeves to
have what looks like lattice work but I can't seem to remember which
portraits, one was Italian.

De




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RE: [h-cost] Canadian (Lattice) Smocking

2007-04-14 Thread otsisto
 The white on the black is either slashes or embroidery, so we agree on
that. What we don't agree with is the smocking and the gold bits.  Spangles
were used in period and I believe that there are a few garments that
Elizabeth I wore that had them.
I believe that they are spangles (there were different sizes) because you
can see them under the lace cuffs. As if they were polished metal and not a
cloth of gold shimmer.
If supported correctly the lattice work can be used in a skirt.
If you look at
http://www.savvyseams.com/techniques/canadian.php
Imagine the raised bars closer together (this can be done) and done in a
little heavier material that is supported in back. Then take every other
raised bar and embroider/pink it and the others spangle it and you have the
design pattern of the portrait.
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth12.jpg
The sleeves are what convinces me that they are latticework because of the
way the design lays. So I guess agree to disagree.
De

-Original Message-
De,

I'm afraid we must agree to disagree.  To my eyes this is definitely
slashing or embroidery meant to look like slashing.  If you look at
other depictions of slashing, you'll see the same look--lines that are
heavier in the middle, narrower on the ends, and not connected:
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownMan11.jpg
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/EdwardHoby1.jpg

Also, sleeves of strapwork (or even lattice smocking, should it turn out
to have existed) are one thing, but a whole skirt of it seems less
plausible.

If you look at depictions of strapwork, on the other hand, you see a
completely different look.  The lines for the edges of the straps are
even in thickness and connect to the next perpendicular strap so that
it's clear they're passing over and under each other:
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownMan2.jpg
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth4.jpg  (side of the bodice)

Melanie Schuessler



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RE: [h-cost] Canadian (Lattice) Smocking

2007-04-14 Thread Susan B. Farmer


If I can steer this conversation away from the portrait of Queen  
Elizabeth, I believe that the original question was about this Italian  
Gown


http://www.wga.hu/art/b/bronzino/2/panciat2.jpg

susan (of 2 minds about the portrait of Elizabeth -- I can see it either way!)
-
Susan Farmer
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
University of Tennessee
Department of Ecology and Evolutionary Biology
http://www.goldsword.com/sfarmer/Trillium/

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RE: [h-cost]Canadian (Lattice) Smocking

2007-04-14 Thread Sharon Collier
If you look at the bodice, which is not slashed, you see the pattern of the
material is the same as the sleeves and skirt, same spacing of large and
small dots. That argues for slashing, since the smocking would have changed
the distance between dots.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Melanie Schuessler
Sent: Saturday, April 14, 2007 9:31 AM
To: Historical Costume
Subject: Re: [h-cost]Canadian (Lattice) Smocking


De,

I'm afraid we must agree to disagree.  To my eyes this is definitely 
slashing or embroidery meant to look like slashing.  If you look at 
other depictions of slashing, you'll see the same look--lines that are 
heavier in the middle, narrower on the ends, and not connected:
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownMan11.jpg
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/EdwardHoby1.jpg

Also, sleeves of strapwork (or even lattice smocking, should it turn out 
to have existed) are one thing, but a whole skirt of it seems less 
plausible.

If you look at depictions of strapwork, on the other hand, you see a 
completely different look.  The lines for the edges of the straps are 
even in thickness and connect to the next perpendicular strap so that 
it's clear they're passing over and under each other:
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownMan2.jpg
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth4.jpg  (side of the bodice)

Melanie Schuessler


otsisto wrote:
 If you look at the dress it is not slashing. It could be strips of velvet
 woven together but I am more inclined to believe that it is lattice work.
 The embroidery (or small pinking) and the spangles are emphisizing the the
 woven look.
 http://www.savvyseams.com/techniques/canadian.php
 
  http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth12.jpg
 
 Please compare the first picture to the portrait's sleeve.
 
 I know that there are two other portraits out there that show the sleeves
to
 have what looks like lattice work but I can't seem to remember which
 portraits, one was Italian.
 
 De



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RE: [h-cost] Canadian (Lattice) Smocking

2007-04-14 Thread otsisto
The smocking would not change the distance of the spangles if you are
using the Latticework smocking.
http://www.savvyseams.com/techniques/canadian.php

The spangles would be running along the ridge of the lattice.

http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth12.jpg

I guess why I am stuck on the notion that this is latticework is because
twenty years ago I saw a dress in dark blue velvet, sleeves and bodice done
in latticework and it looked similar to EI's sleeves. I remember this
because the only time prior to that I saw it on pillows that my Aunt Betty
made back in the 70s.
De
-Original Message-
If you look at the bodice, which is not slashed, you see the pattern of the
material is the same as the sleeves and skirt, same spacing of large and
small dots. That argues for slashing, since the smocking would have changed
the distance between dots.

-Original Message-
De,

I'm afraid we must agree to disagree.  To my eyes this is definitely
slashing or embroidery meant to look like slashing.  If you look at
other depictions of slashing, you'll see the same look--lines that are
heavier in the middle, narrower on the ends, and not connected:
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownMan11.jpg
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/EdwardHoby1.jpg

Also, sleeves of strapwork (or even lattice smocking, should it turn out
to have existed) are one thing, but a whole skirt of it seems less
plausible.

If you look at depictions of strapwork, on the other hand, you see a
completely different look.  The lines for the edges of the straps are
even in thickness and connect to the next perpendicular strap so that
it's clear they're passing over and under each other:
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/UnknownMan2.jpg
http://www.tudor-portraits.com/Elizabeth4.jpg  (side of the bodice)

Melanie Schuessler


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