You lose the easier starter-mount & accessory-case-integrated
alternator, if you do the 'direct to firewall' thing
On 2/2/2015 11:21 AM, Chris Prata via KRnet wrote:
> I wonder if the newer, larger engines (and a battery on the firewall) would
> solve this and *particularly* if there is any
I think the pitch sensitivity is more a function of the design -
specifically the elevator:horiz-stab surface area ratio...
On 2/4/2015 10:17 PM, Chris Prata via KRnet wrote:
> I see this comment a lot. Is there a way KR builders reduce that pitch
> sensitivity by bringing the cable attach poi
They make them in sizes all the way up to an MA4SPA (O-320) equivalent -
or at least did back when they called it 'Aerocarb'...
Folks seem to think that the Ellison products are the 'best' in this
realm, the POSA is the worst, and Aerovee's come in 'better than a POSA,
worse than an Ellison or
The current accessory case uses a traditional conical-mount layout, and
thus works with a standard aircraft-style engine mount. I believe it is
bolt-pattern-compatible with the O-200 & smaller Continentals...
On 2/2/2015 6:04 AM, Virgil N.Salisbury via KRnet wrote:
> On 2/2/2015 5:24 AM, Chris P
The original KR landing gear system was a main-gear retracting taildragger.
I've actually got a full set of it lying around in my hangar, as when I
bought my project it had the original gear (and I wanted a fixed-tri)...
On 1/25/2015 9:56 AM, bjoenunley via KRnet wrote:
> These guys have excelle
Depends on the design of the carb.
Some of the more popular KR carbs don't have floats (Aerocarb, Revflow,
Ellison, Posa)... These either have a vacuum-triggered fuel valve, or
will leak your gas out if you don't switch off the fuel.
The old 'tractor carb' (Marvel Strombreg) sitting under most
How did you align the wheels? Was there any sort of fixture you used?
I am going through something similar
On 10/29/2014 10:45 AM, Sid Wood via KRnet wrote:
> This past weekend I set the 0-degree toe for my main wheels, clamping
> firmly with 4 C-clamps on each wheel bracket. That exercise o
A digital scale is better than a balance.
You can get a good one from WalMart for $15-20...
On 10/24/2014 6:21 PM, Karl via KRnet wrote:
> Hi All
>
> Can someone point me in the direction of some balance beam type scales for
> weighing out the epoxy in the correct proportions (5:1).
>
> Thanks
014 9:22 AM PDT Brad Ankerstar via KRnet wrote:
>>>
>>> $500 will buy the entire gear set.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>> -Original Message-
>>>> From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Dave_A
>>>> via KRnet
>
Perhaps someone who needs trike gear and has tailwheel gear might buy
his legs & sell you theirs...
Depending on his price, I'd be interested (I have tailwheel gear but am
doing a trike gear bird)...
On 10/13/2014 6:35 PM, louis lanie via KRnet wrote:
> Would the main gear legs work for a tail
I've done this for different reasons - I bought a set of diehl mains
used from someone on this site, and they were taildragger legs, but I'm
doing a tri-gear plane.
I put the gear on the back of the spar, but I am now grappling with the
tire-alignment issue
The gear I got was pre-drilled,
There are 2 versions of the Diehl case out there
The older one does NOT use a Subaru auto starter, but rather as Rotax
2-stroke (Skidoo/Seadoo) starter...
On 6/30/2014 6:00 PM, Clayton via KRnet wrote:
> Thank you all for the input.
> I did not get an answer at Diehl.
> James, you are correc
'Hooking it up to a battery' without an antenna connected can damage it.
On 6/2/2014 10:25 PM, Mike T via KRnet wrote:
> I'll need a Mode C transponder in my plane, and one I wanted is for sale
> used at a decent price from Aircraft Spruce. If I wind up getting it, I
> could hook it up to a
1) Those little gennies are usually 2-stroke and run on oilgas mix.
2) There's no way to properly seal it off so that no carbon
monoxide/exhaust leaks back into the cabin... IF there is an opening for
the pull cord their is an opening for the exhaust
On 3/14/2014 3:10 AM, James Dunn wrote:
I've seen an android phone used as a serial port GPS to provide
coordinates for a PC...
It does work...
On 3/10/2014 9:55 AM, Charter wrote:
> On android tablet, go to settings and turn on "enable mock locations" avare
> should then work. If you do not have built in gps ("location services"
Acer's Transformer Pad tablets had a real GPS (even in the wifi
versions)... The 'MeMo Pad' ones do NOT have a GPS.
On 3/10/2014 9:21 PM, Tony King wrote:
> Watch out for iPads too. The WiFi only models don't have a GPS chipset -
> only the cellular models support GPS. The GPS will work witho
One idea that occurred to me, was that a sufficiently large-diameter PVC
pipe, properly sealed & run through the space between the leading edge
and the front spar would make an ideal fuel tank... However, since I got
my KR project with the wings prebuilt and a large header tank in place,
I'm go
No.
It's still cheaper to get a 'Sport Pilot' license (less hours required)
than a full Private, but more versatile than the old 'Recreational
Pilot' that almost no one got because you couldn't do anything but
circle your home airport...
On 12/16/2013 6:55 PM, Tinyauto at aol.com wrote:
> IF t
And if you would rather use a PC than a phone there is always
winn-balance (www.winnmicro.com/wab/)
On 11/2/2013 6:16 AM, Larry&Sallie Flesner wrote:
>
>
>
>
> From AOPA
> Thought some might be interested
> Larry Flesner
> ++
>
> Weighing in on weight-and-b
Water based paint = a big mess... House paint in perticular...
It's not flexible enough to actually adhere without cracking/peeling...
Prior owner of my project used the stuff UGH!
On 9/11/2013 7:32 PM, Lee Van Dyke wrote:
> I'm working on I lancair 360 that has water-based paint on the unde
Pure gasoline should be good with glass & plastic tanks...
Ethanol degrades certain rubber-ish compounds & the interior of some
varieties of fuel-lines... The 'mush-ifying' of fuel-tanks has been a
problem for fiberglass boats, too...
So even without glass tanks... 'Keep the booze in your glass
What were you using for a carb/injector/etc?
On 8/4/2013 10:42 AM, Brad Ankerstar wrote:
> Some of you know that the KR I started in 1974, resurrected on 2005, and
> expected to fly to Mt Vernon this year, was destroyed on its first
> "official" test . I have several pictures and some comments on
The easiest way to get a good seal is to use polysulfide sealant
(Proseal) to seal the gaskets...
It's more flexible than epoxy, and is pretty much intended for fuel &
water sealing purposes...
The downside is that it is VERY sticky/messy stuff ('infamous for
getting all over everything BUT wh
The mounting for most of those is a circular pattern of screws.
When I installed mine, I used the following process:
1) drill a hole for the probe to go through
2) Using the mounting holes as a guide, drill through the tank around
the hole that the probe goes through
3) Rivet nut-plates to the i
Paint stripper should logically be OK on the wood parts, just not the
glass parts or the glass-to-wood joints...
On 12/29/2012 5:31 PM, billie settles wrote:
> Any of you guys out there ever repaint an older KR? You obviously wouldn't
> use a paint stripper, so, do you just sand the old paint a
That's the catch... Because it is 'out of disturbed air', it depends on
the design of each individual pitot... For example, my piper-style blade
pitot has to extend further down, to make up for the fact that it
doesn't extend forward at all...
On 12/12/2012 8:01 PM, Oscar Zuniga wrote:
> I be
Logically, the tube should be mounted to the thickest part of the wing,
to ensure the lowest opening-position relative to the airstream
On 12/12/2012 4:40 AM, stef...@kpnmail.nl wrote:
> Kr friends,
> I found in the Books of Tony Bingelis useful information about the static and
> pitot tube.
Dyna does make motorcycle coils, but there is no requirement that dyna
coils be used with a dyna ignition...
And bike coils are probably one of the easiest/most common
coil-per-2-plugs ignition options available for a CDI-type system
On 12/7/2012 6:12 AM, Phillip Hill wrote:
> If memory ser
It almost looks like they are 'semi-dieselizing' gasoline engines, with
a glow-plug-like ignition source & relying on compression to create the
conditions for ignition...
On 12/9/2012 9:32 AM, J L wrote:
> Larry,
>
> I have been keeping an eye on them for 6 years or so. They used to say
> that t
Nails are not a good idea - they weaken the structure. And extra glass =
extra weight
'Just glue' holds alot more advanced aircraft together, and the KR is
not exactly a new design - they have been flying for long enough that if
there were structural issues we'd see them... So far, the main
Look into a catalytic propane heater...
No muss, no fumes, less carbon monoxide concerns... Runs off a BBQ tank...
On 11/5/2012 4:15 AM, Robert Boyd wrote:
> Hey guys, I'm getting ready to get back on my KR2S project and have a
> question.
> In Ohio the temps are getting down there which will re
I will point out that www.uship.com offers some very good shipping deals
for anyone looking to buy a plane and 'have it moved'...
I did this, my plane started out in FLA and is now in WA.
In here (plenty more similar-vintage avionics p/os here too)
http://www.aeroelectric.com/Installation_Data/
On 10/19/2012 7:42 PM, PatS wrote:
> Guys; Any one got a pin out for a Terra TXN 960? Could use same to check
> unit out. Thanks
> IHS
> PatS
> Seminary, MS
> __
What sort of certified aircraft?
Piper uses another master-cylinder... I've never seen the system Cessna
uses up close (Eg, from anything but the pilot's perspective) but I do
remember that it had a pull-lever similar to the park-brake on an old
pickup truck
Perhaps the valves you have wer
3rd master cylinder, 'latching' lever for an actuator, check valves &
T-fittings?
It would not work to hold already-stepped-on brakes, but it would apply
and hold both brakes as long as the lever was latched in the 'applied'
position.
Eg: 'extra' MC -> tee -> lines to each side brakes -> check
Try being a blue mountain owner
On 10/11/2012 6:35 PM, The Ainsworths wrote:
> Larry et al
> Corvair list in 2011 (note date) about the Lowrance 2000 update. I don't
> know the status of this but maybe Ron will chime in on the status of the
> update(see email address of Rob). Perhaps the archi
No, this wasn't me... Wasn't a KR...
But I got to watch a very nice Cessna twin go up in smoke because the
pilot landed gear-up into dry grass today, while I was working on my KR...
The landing itself wasn't bad - would have been just fine if the wheels
were down. Pilot & passenger got out on t
My canopy is held on by a full-length hinge on the right (copilot) side,
and a pair of marine-style hatch-fasteners on the left.
The gas-strut thing never occurred to me - right now the 'canopy
support' 2 pieces of aluminum angle, bolted together in the middle by a
single bolt so that when 'rel
Looking at adding a wing-walk to my plane now that it's on tri-gear...
I'm looking for a template I could print out, to make stiffener-ribs
from 1x2 lumber, for use as a wing-walk.
Oxegenating Agent...
The problem (noticed first on powerboats with fiberglass fual tanks) is
that it dissolves most fiberglass resins - and in the process wrecks
fuel systems
If you don't have a metal tank, don't run ethanol-contaminated fuel.
Test kits are available, that rely on the fact
I think the main application for PSRUs in aircraft, is if you're running
an engine with an absurdly-high operating RPM/power-curve, that you need
to bring down to make using a prop practical...
For example, if you're powering your plane with a Subie motor that
red-lines at 6k+, you're obviously
I looked into the Marvel & Stromberg units that would be right-sized,
the problem is that they are rare as hen's teeth AND certified aircraft
parts, so they're really absurdly expensive...
On 7/2/2012 6:16 PM, Dan Heath wrote:
> I have used the Ellison for many years. I finally scrounged an EF
Well, first off, if you are doing a gear retrofit, the 'Milescraft
Drive-90' is an indispensible tool... Absolutely the smallest 90-degree
close-quarters drill head I could find, it allows me to work within the
space of the existing gear holes without cutting out the top wingskin,
or making the
IIRC, the original KR-2 had a pretty small motor as VWs go and did
manage to lift 2...
Just watch your CG...
On 6/25/2012 9:14 PM, jeffyor...@yahoo.com wrote:
> I have done it several times and I have flown in Rob Schmidts with Rob and me
> and I know he flys his mom sometimes.
>
> I have a Gre
Ahh...
What I'm looking for (thought this might be it, but I guess it's not) is
a pre-laminated fiberglass sheet that can be epoxied in place in leiu of
wet-layup...
When I first joined the Army, I was an airframe mechanic, and we had
this stuff in the shop that we called card-stock or fibergl
Another thing that would probably help your w/b is mounting your battery
in front of the firewall...
On 6/21/2012 12:30 PM, mfreem...@indy.rr.com wrote:
> I've got the mount jig built and ready to start fitting the 4130 steel that I
> got from Wicks Aircraft.
> The original mount was so close
Most likely a computer virus of some sort..
On 6/17/2012 8:16 PM, Allen G. Wiesner wrote:
> SPAM!
>
Are there any issues with this, besides 'measure twice, drill once'?
I know the 'design' specifies that they go right next to the body of the
plane, but I'd rather not cut out the underside of my wings if I can
avoid it
I'm doing a retract -> tri-gear conversion, and was thinking that since
If you'd like to come by and see my plane on Saturday, give me a call...
I'd certainly like to see (maybe ride left-seat in some day - I'd pay
for gas) your plane, as right now the only real I've ever been around in
person, is mine...
BTW, I'd love to see your plane sometime... I've never actually seen a
finished KR - just the one I bought and am fixing up...
On 5/31/2012 9:51 PM, rdrace...@aol.com wrote:
> Dave,
> if you are located on spanaway airport I would love to come over and take a
> look at your project. My KR-2S i
KR3 was supposed to be a float plane, right?
On 5/29/2012 6:36 AM, Nerobro wrote:
> The KR3 already happened. And it didn't end well. :-) going to LSA specs
> would be an interesting exercise. I wonder what a LSA wing would look
> like. People would need to be a lot more careful about airfram
The T-40 isn't a 4-place, and it's very different construction than the
KR (no foam, minimal composite work). However, I can kind of see the
comparison between a T-40A and an 'Upsized KR2', when it comes to
appearance (It's a much heavier bird too - O-320 vs VW & all)...
I've got a T-40AS that
This is what I have on my engine (well, one just like it, anyhow):
http://images.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/pix/4357146.jpg
If I get rid of the cable without 'doing something' then I am stuck with
that drive connection exposed - which can allow oil to leak out - or
grime to find it's way in...
Ok, since I'm fixing an existing project, rather than starting from
scratch...
I have two areas of significant foam damage, where I cut the damaged
foam out & am making through-and-through patches (the base of the
rudder, and the center-section of the pilot-side elevator)... Due to the
thickne
This is what I have on my engine (well, one just like it, anyhow):
http://images.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/pix/4357146.jpg
If I get rid of the cable without 'doing something' then I am stuck with
that drive connection exposed - which can allow oil to leak out - or
grime to find it's way in...
My plane came with an 1835 VW of some sort, and it was set up with a
'Porsche Style' mechanical tach drive...
My issue? i'm not putting a mechanical tach in this plane - I'm using an
EFIS with an electric tach input.
I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions other than 'replace
pump-cover an
If you make a laminated-plywood spar with the laminations vertical, it
will be more susceptible to bending forward-to-back (doing it horizontal
makes it so that if there's bending, it's up and down...
Also, for the solid-laminated, bent design (which is pretty heavy and
thus not used in the KR
It's finally here...
Now I can finish it without flying to FL to work on it...
A big +1 to uShip.com and Gem City Transport ($1600-ish to move a
complete KR-2 from the Tampa area to just outside Olympia, WA)
Now, Memorial Day weekend will be spent working on the plane...
Once I get my new
It's finally here...
Now I can finish it without flying to FL to work on it...
A big +1 to uShip.com and Gem City Transport ($1600-ish to move a
complete KR-2 from the Tampa area to just outside Olympia, WA)
Now, Memorial Day weekend will be spent working on the plane...
P.S. Steve, nvAero
Google Sites is free & for a build-log, should be fine...
On 5/18/2012 5:46 PM, james ellison wrote:
>
> I purchased a project some years ago. Most of my building has been very slow.
> I have been a long time member of EAA and the KR net.
> I also have a lot of questions, but first I think I need
I'm working on another project (Turner T-40) that uses the laminated
strip spar with stub wings..
It also calls for an O-235 or larger engine...
The strip-spar is HEAVY. Very HEAVY.
And you do want to have stubs, because (a) it makes your plane 'movable'
by truck, (b) it's easier to build the
I hired a mover to bring my plane from Florida to Washington...
$1600...
So it will be here by the end of the month...
Just wondering how many other KRnet members are in my neck of the woods...
The plane will be living at Spanaway Airfield... T-hangar for $150
including tax was kind of hard t
1 2 3
I hired a mover to bring my plane from Florida to Washington...
$1600...
So it will be here by the end of the month...
Just wondering how many other KRnet members are in my neck of the woods...
The plane will be living at Spanaway Airfield... T-hangar for $150
including tax was kind of hard t
Paul's e-mail was compromised a few months back...
For all we know, that's from another server 'spoofing' his address...
On 4/29/2012 2:54 PM, RED Robinson wrote:
> this made the krnet ... try changing your password
>
>
>
>
> --- On Sun, 4/29/12, Paul W. Bittengle Jr. wrote:
>
> From: Paul W. Bi
For the plans.
I now have a complete set of drawings for the KR2 - which will be quite
useful in finishing/fixing up my plane.
It's a tube going span-wise, and at the end of the tube, the flap-arm
has a circular 'clamp' part going around the tube, with a single bolt
going thru the clamp and tube.
I can drill it one-larger, but I'm looking for solutions to prevent
re-occurrance of the problem.
On 4/14/2012 5:22 AM, Lar
My plane has the stock flaps, and they're one of the last things still
wrong with the plane.
The flap torque-tube on the passenger side has the hole for the flap-arm
mounting screw 'oggled out', so that the flap can move up and down a
small amount despite the tube not being moved. This also res
You should be able to get weatherstripping/rubber trim from AutoZone or
O'Reileys
On 2/25/2012 5:00 PM, Dan Heath wrote:
> I have seen this but cannot remember what it is called. I am going to cut a
> rectangular hole in my instrument panel which is .063 aluminum. I want to
> put a seal aro
My bird has a BMA EFIS/One, which is a 10" diagonal screen...
It barely fits - I had to actually have it stick out in front of the
panel, in order to clear one of the crossmembers.
Panel height is one thing the KR-series does not have much of
On 2/20/2012 4:57 PM, Mark Langford wrote:
> Den
Further, Android already has the APIs to interface with the required
instruments, and many of the high-end phones have most of them built in...
My 'Galaxy S 4G' has an accelerometer, attitude sensor, barometer, and
magnetic compass. The Andoid OS makes these available to apps in a
generic forma
On 2/18/2012 5:11 PM, Jose Fuentes wrote:
> I'm holding out for versions that will run on Windows 8 tablets as that
> hardware will be 10x better then what apple is producing (USB, is one good
> example).
>
> Plus with a much improved and finger friendly version of windows using .NET
> for ARM proc
Any filler compound is going to add alot of weight, given what you
describe...
Re-skin it...
On 2/13/2012 7:37 AM, robert gill wrote:
> Robert GillHi, I have a question about the best way to surface and level the
> ply fuse skins aft of the cockpit area without adding to much weight, the
> ski
I'll hold off registering until I know if my plane will be flying...
I'm a landing gear retrofit, carb swap, and elevator repair away right
now And I have to find time to get back to FL and work on it, once I
get home from the 'Stan...
On 2/13/2012 5:27 PM, Mark Jones wrote:
> I just looked
That's a great idea - and yet another use for that particular piece of
luggage...
As a bonus, the straps on the duffle can be used to further secure it to
your passenger seat, if you have a seat with a back, anyhow...
On 2/13/2012 6:05 PM, Robert7721 wrote:
> Dan,
>
> I used an Army duffle bag
Sandbags strapped into the co-pilot seat spot, full fuel & a full 35lb
suitcase (or whatever your baggage limit is) in your baggage area is
probably the most realistic method I can think of
I bought a program called 'winn balance' to do my initial W&B stuff,
when I get to that point... It c
The bend would be at the fuselage-stub-wing joint.
I've got another project (Turner T-40) that uses such a design - a solid
center-spar of laminations, bent at a 5-degree angle on each side, where
the side exits the fuselage.
On 2/9/2012 7:18 PM, GaryH wrote:
> Bill,
> This is an interesting th
In the USA, there is NO LONGER a requirement to license air-band radios.
Other countries may vary.
On 1/24/2012 5:54 AM, Virgil N. Salisbury wrote:
>
> A-Airworthyness
> R-Registration
> R-Radio
> O-Operations
> W-Weight and Balance
> Virg
>
>
> On 1/23/2
The 'spray bar' fuel delivery originated with the Ellison unit, A/O
POSA-style units that use a solid tapered needle.
Both Rotec & Ellison have the fuel flow tied to airflow through the
unit, so there is no puddling (a/o POSA derivatives, which did not
address the issue because it wasn't much o
Also, from appearances, the Rotec is pretty much a direct Ellison clone
Of course, Ellison also calls their EFS system (including the 'vw-sized'
EFS-2) a 'throttle body injector', too - as do all of the POSA-knockoff
MFGs
IIRC, the closest thing to a *REAL* throttle-body injector, is th
New site is http://dcacklam.comoj.com/
Google sites is kind of messed up, so I just copied the page over to a
new provider
Will de-googlify it later today...
This is all of what I've done with my plane - text & pics...
The flaps on my plane are connected by way of a hole through the flap
tube on each side, allowing a bolt to go through matching holes in the
flap-control-arm.
On one side, this hole has become oblong, allowing that flap to move a
bit independently of the other one These parts are aluminum a
https://sites.google.com/site/daveakr2/
Another 'bit' from my last week's work on the plane:
One tip of the wood prop has about a 3" crack in it going through all
but the last outer ply 'skin' on the back of the prop.
It's a 53" prop, on an 1835 (presumably HAPI) VW.
1) Is repairing such a crack safe/economical, and if so, how does o
Appears to be the 'fake antivirus' one
Bad news if you get it...
On 1/12/2012 10:58 AM, Wayne wrote:
>> Date: Jan 11, 2012 9:28 PM
>>
>> From: "Paul W. Bittengle Jr."
>>
>> Subject: KR> (no subject)
>>
>> http://jessesiegel.com/simpleviewer/tmp/search.php?how128.png
>>
>> ___
Yes.
Don't know make/model, but it's vintage 1986 or so...
Hence, I can't find anything at all on the 'Synchro' brand regulator and
rectifier that are currently hooked up to it...
The only vehicle I've gotten this 'involved' with electrically, is an
old motorcycle, and it used an all-in-one un
I seem to remember Cessna 172s having the battery under the cowl...
Works for them...
Personally, I'm putting mine up there simply for weight/balance purposes
- the more weight forward of the CG, the less likely I end up with a
tail-heavy plane.
On 1/10/2012 9:30 PM, jeffyor...@yahoo.com wrote
I had similar issues a few weeks ago, but now all my posts seem to go
through...
And yes, posts from 'Glen Gmail' are getting through
On 1/7/2012 2:24 PM, Barrett wrote:
> Stop grumbling and get to work! :)
> -Barrett
>
> -Original Message-
> From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:
Thanks to all who responded to my 'Day One' post...
Day Two was spent doing the nose-gear strut & buying some
wood/incidentals... In the process, I pretty much confirmed what you all
told me... Stock main gear can't be converted, it has to be replaced, as
the Diehl nose-wheel is too tall to wor
I did the nose gear strut today - and a bunch of other stuff that had to
be done to make room: the existing exhaust had to go, but it was a very
poor (read: fire hazard) design, so no loss there (although I plan to
use the parts I cut up to make a new exhaust), and a few other things
too - but
er the foam repair once it is no longer expanding.
I am involved with my local EAA chapter - I have another project (T-40AS
- all wood, Lycoming powered) that I've been working on before this - I
just picked up this KR because it's alot closer to 'flyable' (and alot
easier t
For those following, I bought a KR2 while over in Afganhistan...
I'm on R&R now, and I flew down to FL to get started on making it
flyable & set up the way I want...
Pics are posted at
http://s187.photobucket.com/albums/x198/dcacklam/KR2%20Pics/ (see
sub-albums (left side of webpage) for engin
O-290 is a bit big... Fuel burn of a 320 without the HP.
O-290s - specifically the GPU variety converted to aircraft use - were
once used for the 'next size up from a KR' scratch-built birds (T-18,
T-40, etc)... Most of these designs, if built today, now use 320s. If
you see an O-290 on ebay,
I have a new-in-packaging Diehl gear assembly waiting for me in FL
I'll let you know how thick the spacer is, when I get down there & get
started installing it...
On 1/5/2012 9:24 PM:
> From: Chris corbine
> Netters,
>
> There is a spacer (thick washer) that goes between the pivot and the tire
>
Right now, N86DK is in a UHaul shed, where I had the last owner put it
while I was in Afganhistan
Photos from the E-Bay auction show a complete, once-flying/FAA
registered KR2 taildragger, missing only avionics/instruments and a few
switches, and in need of some paint touch-up. Built in 198
Alodyne works for aluminum
epoxy primer or zinc-chromate will work for both.
On 12/26/2011 10:38 PM, Dave McCauley wrote:
> To protect aluminum, try Alodine, a surface treatment that provides a layer
> of corrosion resistance. You just paint it on. Paint will bond to it.
>
> If you're willi
Protection from corrosion?
Primer paint, specifically zinc chromate or epoxy type.
Works for Army helicopters, should work for KR parts.
On 12/26/2011 3:09 AM, Seth and Karen Jersild wrote:
>> Hello all, and Merry Christmas--
> I just received my wing attach fittings from the shop and am wonder
Most engine-monitoring software for cars doesn't support direct sensor
interfacing, but relies on the car's computer system built-in engine
monitoring, and simply displays the data that's already been collected
and processed
Apart from aircraft with a FADEC, or auto-powered experimentals ru
There were a few projects in the late 90s/early-00s... Not based on a
flight-sim package, but using PC hardware & running on Windows 9x or
MS-DOS. And at least one commercial EFIS vendor relied on MS-DOS & PC
hardware for their system (Blue Mountain).
That said, PC hardware isn't the greatest o
IIRC you can't fly an experimental until you have at least a PPL.
So for solo (At a minimum), they'd have to use a certificated aircraft
On 12/20/2011 9:42 PM, Rich Angel wrote:
> Hi folks,
> Anyone on the list have any words for an aspiring pilot and KR
> enthusiast about taking part
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