Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
We used 2024t3 aluminium thickness is 1.6 . If you make an angle at the lowerside you can use it as a stiffner and you can at the lower flange also connect your min connections. The whole instrument pannel is that stif, that we made good connection at the longaron side so we will remove one wooden member ( from longaron to longaron) Stef > Op 13 februari 2018 om 7:18 schreef Luis Claudio via KRnet > : > > > Thank you guys, great ideas all. I like the idea of the aluminum panel and I > didn't think about the hassle of the foam being more of a detriment than > helping for all the now obvious reasons. Aluminum it is... I like the > grounding and stiffening suggestions and the fact that I already had the > double knockout (can't remember why I bought it but its been sitting in my > garage for years). > I looked at your panels from the links that you provided and I am super > impressed with the work. Lots of great ideas and believe me I will be visiting > your links as I build to make sure that I pick up on some of these great > ideas. I think I can put this to bed and start cutting the aluminum sheet that > I had purchased and was using as a shelf in the work shop...let the cutting > begin... > While I am at it let me share my progress on the building of my KR2: > Dismantled Revmaster 2100D and in the process of re-assembly with the new > heads that Joe (from Revmaster) provided. Final stages of elevator assembly > (complete rebuild) since the PO had cut the elevator with a saw. Converting > from two control sticks to single stick in the center, Installing T-style > throttle assembly and mixture control. completed brakes and rudder peddle > installation. Completed fuel lines, electric fuel pump and selector valve > installation. Mounted electrical flaps controls with actuator. > work left to do: Complete firewall installation, controls to the elevator > (rudder controls completed). mount tail wheel, fabricate control panel and > mount instrumentation, electrical controls, complete engine assembly and > install. > Thanks everyone. > Luis R Claudio, KR2S, Dallas, Texas On Monday, February 12, 2018 > 11:17:27 PM CST, Global Solutions via KRnet > wrote: > > Hi Mark. > > How thick was the aluminum you used on the panel? > > I am now thinking of making mine from AL as well. > > Thanks > > Stan > > > > On 2/12/2018 1:41 PM, Mark Langford via KRnet wrote: > > Luis Claudio wrote: > > > >> I am torturing myself with the decision to build the instrument panel out > >> of aluminum or do a layup of glass and foam. > > I think you'll find 1/4" plywood will be very heavy by comparison to > > aluminum. It all adds up. N891JF has a seat back made of 1/4" plywood, > > and I figure I could save 4.5 pounds by redoing it out of foam and glass > > like N56ML's seatback. A leftover piece of 3/32" aircraft plywood with > > fiberglass on both sides would be much lighter, although could lack the > > "structure" to even remain flat, unless you fold the glass over at the > > bottom 2"-2" to give the thing something to keep it straight. This > > lower lip also helps to eliminate the cut hazard of the bottom of the > > panel, as well as provides a very handy shelf on the forward side to > > mount a bunch of stuff that you don't even know you need yet, like a > > terminal strip for power and a ground bar for all the ground points to > > connect to one place. And there may be relays, timers, etc. added on > > later. > > > > Aluminum is a better choice though, although it is more difficult to > > modify later, often requiring a redo. I had my first panel waterjet > > cut, but on N891JF I started with one that I'd previously bent up, cut > > it down to shape, and put a layer of carbon fiber on it to make it look > > nice. I doubt that it weighs anywhere near 4 poundsprobably more > > like 2 pounds. Adding a lip at the bottom is more problematic with > > aluminum, as it requires a bending brake (a sharp corner may simply > > break off), but a local sheet metal shop can do that in about 5 minutes, > > most of which is setting up the machine with the appropriate radius > > dies. Really, the more radius the better, from a crash protection > > standpoint. > > > > See http://www.n56ml.com/n891jf/panel/ for how I made the N891JF panel > > with carbon fiber covering. All holes in the aluminum were drilled or > > cut with a jig saw, except the round instrument holes, which were cheap > > hole saws from Home Depot (they cut aluminum just fine). If you ever > > want to redo it, you can make new cutouts and recover with carbon fiber > > for a new façade. Another simpler option is to just cut big square > > pieces out and install new ones with a different configuration, like the > > panel Herbert Furle did on his KR panel, flat panels in aluminum (see > > www.krnet.org for that site). See > > http://www.krnet.org/krs/hfurle/instruments.jpg. Steve Anderson did a > > similar one. See http://www.k
Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
Thank you guys, great ideas all. I like the idea of the aluminum panel and I didn't think about the hassle of the foam being more of a detriment than helping for all the now obvious reasons. Aluminum it is... I like the grounding and stiffening suggestions and the fact that I already had the double knockout (can't remember why I bought it but its been sitting in my garage for years). I looked at your panels from the links that you provided and I am super impressed with the work. Lots of great ideas and believe me I will be visiting your links as I build to make sure that I pick up on some of these great ideas. I think I can put this to bed and start cutting the aluminum sheet that I had purchased and was using as a shelf in the work shop...let the cutting begin... While I am at it let me share my progress on the building of my KR2: Dismantled Revmaster 2100D and in the process of re-assembly with the new heads that Joe (from Revmaster) provided. Final stages of elevator assembly (complete rebuild) since the PO had cut the elevator with a saw. Converting from two control sticks to single stick in the center, Installing T-style throttle assembly and mixture control. completed brakes and rudder peddle installation. Completed fuel lines, electric fuel pump and selector valve installation. Mounted electrical flaps controls with actuator. work left to do: Complete firewall installation, controls to the elevator (rudder controls completed). mount tail wheel, fabricate control panel and mount instrumentation, electrical controls, complete engine assembly and install. Thanks everyone. Luis R Claudio, KR2S, Dallas, Texas On Monday, February 12, 2018 11:17:27 PM CST, Global Solutions via KRnet wrote: Hi Mark. How thick was the aluminum you used on the panel? I am now thinking of making mine from AL as well. Thanks Stan On 2/12/2018 1:41 PM, Mark Langford via KRnet wrote: > Luis Claudio wrote: > >> I am torturing myself with the decision to build the instrument panel out of >> aluminum or do a layup of glass and foam. > I think you'll find 1/4" plywood will be very heavy by comparison to > aluminum. It all adds up. N891JF has a seat back made of 1/4" plywood, > and I figure I could save 4.5 pounds by redoing it out of foam and glass > like N56ML's seatback. A leftover piece of 3/32" aircraft plywood with > fiberglass on both sides would be much lighter, although could lack the > "structure" to even remain flat, unless you fold the glass over at the > bottom 2"-2" to give the thing something to keep it straight. This > lower lip also helps to eliminate the cut hazard of the bottom of the > panel, as well as provides a very handy shelf on the forward side to > mount a bunch of stuff that you don't even know you need yet, like a > terminal strip for power and a ground bar for all the ground points to > connect to one place. And there may be relays, timers, etc. added on > later. > > Aluminum is a better choice though, although it is more difficult to > modify later, often requiring a redo. I had my first panel waterjet > cut, but on N891JF I started with one that I'd previously bent up, cut > it down to shape, and put a layer of carbon fiber on it to make it look > nice. I doubt that it weighs anywhere near 4 poundsprobably more > like 2 pounds. Adding a lip at the bottom is more problematic with > aluminum, as it requires a bending brake (a sharp corner may simply > break off), but a local sheet metal shop can do that in about 5 minutes, > most of which is setting up the machine with the appropriate radius > dies. Really, the more radius the better, from a crash protection > standpoint. > > See http://www.n56ml.com/n891jf/panel/ for how I made the N891JF panel > with carbon fiber covering. All holes in the aluminum were drilled or > cut with a jig saw, except the round instrument holes, which were cheap > hole saws from Home Depot (they cut aluminum just fine). If you ever > want to redo it, you can make new cutouts and recover with carbon fiber > for a new façade. Another simpler option is to just cut big square > pieces out and install new ones with a different configuration, like the > panel Herbert Furle did on his KR panel, flat panels in aluminum (see > www.krnet.org for that site). See > http://www.krnet.org/krs/hfurle/instruments.jpg. Steve Anderson did a > similar one. See http://www.krnet.org/krs/sandersen/120604_060.jpg for > that one. There's a lot of flexibility in this method, especially if > you're not going to have access to the back of the panel! > > Mark Langford, Harvest, AL > ML "at" N56ML.com > www.N56ML.com > > > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at > https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. > Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options. > To UNsubscribe fr
Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
Hi Mark. How thick was the aluminum you used on the panel? I am now thinking of making mine from AL as well. Thanks Stan On 2/12/2018 1:41 PM, Mark Langford via KRnet wrote: Luis Claudio wrote: I am torturing myself with the decision to build the instrument panel out of aluminum or do a layup of glass and foam. I think you'll find 1/4" plywood will be very heavy by comparison to aluminum. It all adds up. N891JF has a seat back made of 1/4" plywood, and I figure I could save 4.5 pounds by redoing it out of foam and glass like N56ML's seatback. A leftover piece of 3/32" aircraft plywood with fiberglass on both sides would be much lighter, although could lack the "structure" to even remain flat, unless you fold the glass over at the bottom 2"-2" to give the thing something to keep it straight. This lower lip also helps to eliminate the cut hazard of the bottom of the panel, as well as provides a very handy shelf on the forward side to mount a bunch of stuff that you don't even know you need yet, like a terminal strip for power and a ground bar for all the ground points to connect to one place. And there may be relays, timers, etc. added on later. Aluminum is a better choice though, although it is more difficult to modify later, often requiring a redo. I had my first panel waterjet cut, but on N891JF I started with one that I'd previously bent up, cut it down to shape, and put a layer of carbon fiber on it to make it look nice. I doubt that it weighs anywhere near 4 poundsprobably more like 2 pounds. Adding a lip at the bottom is more problematic with aluminum, as it requires a bending brake (a sharp corner may simply break off), but a local sheet metal shop can do that in about 5 minutes, most of which is setting up the machine with the appropriate radius dies. Really, the more radius the better, from a crash protection standpoint. See http://www.n56ml.com/n891jf/panel/ for how I made the N891JF panel with carbon fiber covering. All holes in the aluminum were drilled or cut with a jig saw, except the round instrument holes, which were cheap hole saws from Home Depot (they cut aluminum just fine). If you ever want to redo it, you can make new cutouts and recover with carbon fiber for a new façade. Another simpler option is to just cut big square pieces out and install new ones with a different configuration, like the panel Herbert Furle did on his KR panel, flat panels in aluminum (see www.krnet.org for that site). See http://www.krnet.org/krs/hfurle/instruments.jpg. Steve Anderson did a similar one. See http://www.krnet.org/krs/sandersen/120604_060.jpg for that one. There's a lot of flexibility in this method, especially if you're not going to have access to the back of the panel! Mark Langford, Harvest, AL ML "at" N56ML.com www.N56ML.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
On 2/12/2018 10:22 AM, Luis Claudio via KRnet wrote: I am torturing myself with the decision to build the instrument panel out of aluminum or do a layup of glass and foam Luis R Claudio ++ I built my first panel with 1/4" ply and didn't like the way it turned out. The instruments were recessed, difficult to drill holes for instruments accurately, and things like that. I made my second panel ( https://www.dropbox.com/s/1vajeb0u48h0aio/IMG_8717.JPG?dl=0 ) using left over KR cloth, 12 layers, mostly scrap left from wing, with one good layer on the front for appearance. Carbon fiber might look nice or just lay it up on a smooth surface and paint it black. I used a piece of 1/2 round trim from the lumber yard to stiffen the bottom back side with two 1/4" aluminum tubes from the hobby store from the bottom back to the firewall box to stiffen. Just smash the end of the tube flat and bend 90 degrees to mount. I made 5 shock mount locations using approximately 1 1/4" square blocks epoxied to the bottom side of the glare shield. I drilled a hole in the block, then enlarged the hole from each side using a cheap tapered rasp type bit. I installed rubber corks from each side and cut them down so only about 3/16" extended beyond the hole, front and back. I removed the corks and drilled a center hole to accept the mounting bolt. The panel mounts against the rubber cork on the front and I used a "wood washer" against the cork on the back side. Presto !!! I have a shock mounted instrument panel. One advantage I found with glass is that before painting I could back light the panel with instrument in place and precisely drill the mount holes. 12 layers works for me with stiffeners but to do again I might go 14 or so layers. If properly rigged the panel could be hinged on the bottom and fold down with the removal of just a few bolts. I didn't take it that far but it would be nice. Larry Flesner ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
Sorry Guys, That last one was to go private- Joe Horton - Original Message - From: "n357cj" To: "KRnet" ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
Wow, you must have time on your hands today...writing a short novel. How did you make out with the swift firewall? I ordered a new needle today. They are not made from brass anymore and a few more things I learned from their web page. They also don't offer the 38mm carb anymore. J - Original Message - From: "KRnet" To: "KRnet" Cc: "Mark Langford" Sent: Monday, February 12, 2018 2:16:17 PM Subject: Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S I should've included a link to my first N56ML panel, which is at http://www.n56ml.com/kpanel.html . I didn't emphasize the utility of the bottom shelf, but my next panel will probably have a 6" shelf on the bottom for all that extra stuff. Really, 062" aluminum is thicker than it needs to beI'll go for .040" on the next one Mark Langford, Harvest, AL ML "at" N56ML.com www.N56ML.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
I should've included a link to my first N56ML panel, which is at http://www.n56ml.com/kpanel.html . I didn't emphasize the utility of the bottom shelf, but my next panel will probably have a 6" shelf on the bottom for all that extra stuff. Really, 062" aluminum is thicker than it needs to beI'll go for .040" on the next one Mark Langford, Harvest, AL ML "at" N56ML.com www.N56ML.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
I followed Marks panel and made it out of aluminum. I paid some hvac shop 20 bucks to put a two inch bend in the bottom. All of my wiring and ground bus is installed on the shelf for an easy install. Two bolts on the side through some wood blocks and two screws on the top hold it in. The two top screws go into a small 4130 rod from the panel to the firewall which makes a nice point to run wires to the firewall. You can see how I did it on my website at mykitlog.com/vr6chris or my Facebook album which is public. Chris Pryce Vacaville, CA ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
Luis Claudio wrote: > I am torturing myself with the decision to build the instrument panel out of > aluminum or do a layup of glass and foam. I think you'll find 1/4" plywood will be very heavy by comparison to aluminum. It all adds up. N891JF has a seat back made of 1/4" plywood, and I figure I could save 4.5 pounds by redoing it out of foam and glass like N56ML's seatback. A leftover piece of 3/32" aircraft plywood with fiberglass on both sides would be much lighter, although could lack the "structure" to even remain flat, unless you fold the glass over at the bottom 2"-2" to give the thing something to keep it straight. This lower lip also helps to eliminate the cut hazard of the bottom of the panel, as well as provides a very handy shelf on the forward side to mount a bunch of stuff that you don't even know you need yet, like a terminal strip for power and a ground bar for all the ground points to connect to one place. And there may be relays, timers, etc. added on later. Aluminum is a better choice though, although it is more difficult to modify later, often requiring a redo. I had my first panel waterjet cut, but on N891JF I started with one that I'd previously bent up, cut it down to shape, and put a layer of carbon fiber on it to make it look nice. I doubt that it weighs anywhere near 4 poundsprobably more like 2 pounds. Adding a lip at the bottom is more problematic with aluminum, as it requires a bending brake (a sharp corner may simply break off), but a local sheet metal shop can do that in about 5 minutes, most of which is setting up the machine with the appropriate radius dies. Really, the more radius the better, from a crash protection standpoint. See http://www.n56ml.com/n891jf/panel/ for how I made the N891JF panel with carbon fiber covering. All holes in the aluminum were drilled or cut with a jig saw, except the round instrument holes, which were cheap hole saws from Home Depot (they cut aluminum just fine). If you ever want to redo it, you can make new cutouts and recover with carbon fiber for a new façade. Another simpler option is to just cut big square pieces out and install new ones with a different configuration, like the panel Herbert Furle did on his KR panel, flat panels in aluminum (see www.krnet.org for that site). See http://www.krnet.org/krs/hfurle/instruments.jpg. Steve Anderson did a similar one. See http://www.krnet.org/krs/sandersen/120604_060.jpg for that one. There's a lot of flexibility in this method, especially if you're not going to have access to the back of the panel! Mark Langford, Harvest, AL ML "at" N56ML.com www.N56ML.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
I built my first panel with aircraft grade plywood and the second with 6061-T6 Aluminum sheet when I replaced the original a few years ago. Photos of both are at <http://jeffsplanes.com/KR/2013_Panel.html>. If I had to do another, I would use Aluminum again. Aluminum made for a pretty simple and clean installation. Aircraft Spruce sells a double ended punch that has the two primary instrument hole sizes on each end for $160, but somebody in your local EAA Chapter should have the punches available to use. Everything else can be done with a die grinder (or Dremel) and a unibit. Building a panel using foam core is a problem in that the screws will want to pull into the panel unless you clean around every screw hole and fill with milled fibers or flox. If I wanted a composite panel (which I have considered), I would do a single layup of carbon fiber for the face, then laminate the rest with glass, probably 8 - 10 lay ups to make a reasonably solid panel. I need to build a new panel for my SuperCub clone sometime in the near future. Maybe I'll try that method. Thanks for planting the seed to make me think about it. :o) -Jeff Scott Cherokee Village, AR Sent: Monday, February 12, 2018 at 9:22 AM Cc: "Luis Claudio" Subject: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S I am torturing myself with the decision to build the instrument panel out of aluminum or do a layup of glass and foam. Can I have your input on what you did? I value greatly the inputs and discussions on this forum and its great to be able to be knocked back into reality by your comments and suggestion... working like the dickens to get this bird flying... Luis R Claudio, KR2S Dallas, Texas _ ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
"aluminum or do a layup of glass and foam" Luis, That sounds kind of familiar. Because of my lack of experience and tools for working aluminum I decided to make mine out of 1/4" aircraft plywood. I then put a layer of glass on both sides with a silk weave on the front. You could probably do the same thing with 1/8" plywood but I would probably up the glass layers. Using the plywood allowed me to bolt through it where ever I needed to without having to scrape away foam and add flox for reinforcement. I just use normal wood tools to make the shape I needed. But its biggest advantage is that it is very easily modified. Many changes since I started my build. Still the original panel. Stephen Teate Paradise, Texas The information in this email is confidential and may be legally privileged. If you are not an intended recipient, you should delete this message. Access to this email by anyone else is unauthorized, and any disclosure, copying, distribution or action taken or omitted in reliance on it is prohibited and may be unlawful. ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
I used 1/4" plywood and put a brown laminate on it. I have a small shock mounted Aluminum panel in the middle. The entire panel is removed with 8 screws. The panel with instruments shown weighs about 8 lbs. Not sure how that compares to the other materials. http://kr2seafury.com/7.html Craig > On February 12, 2018 at 11:22 AM Luis Claudio via KRnet > wrote: > > > I am torturing myself with the decision to build the instrument panel out of > aluminum or do a layup of glass and foam. Can I have your input on what you > did? I value greatly the inputs and discussions on this forum and its great > to be able to be knocked back into reality by your comments and suggestion... > working like the dickens to get this bird flying... > Luis R Claudio, KR2S Dallas, Texas > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at > https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. > Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
KR> Instrument Panel KR2S
I am torturing myself with the decision to build the instrument panel out of aluminum or do a layup of glass and foam. Can I have your input on what you did? I value greatly the inputs and discussions on this forum and its great to be able to be knocked back into reality by your comments and suggestion... working like the dickens to get this bird flying... Luis R Claudio, KR2S Dallas, Texas ___ Search the KRnet Archives at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options. To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
