KR> RPM Guage Selection

[Mike Mold]

Hi Larry, I'd be also interested to know the identity of the sensor you
fitted and how it attaches to the O-200 rear drive.

Mike Mold 

-Original Message-
From: KRnet [mailto:krnet-bounces at list.krnet.org] On Behalf Of Larry Flesner
via KRnet
Sent: 06 December 2016 03:36
To: KRnet
Cc: Larry Flesner
Subject: Re: KR> RPM Guage Selection


>. ? It didn't work at all on my continental engine.

++

I use a tach that is driven from an electronic 
sensor mounted at the mechanical tach drive location on the 0-200.

See tach at bottom center of panel 
at   https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32133949/IMG_8717.JPG

I don't remember the brand.  I'd have to do some 
research.  It has worked for 600 hours now.

Larry Flesner


___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html.
see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change
options
To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org

KR> RPM Guage Selection

[Ronald Wright]

Tiny Tachs work great.  Usually around $50 or so.  I've got several of them and 
never had an issue.



On Mon, 12/5/16, bjoenunley via KRnet  wrote:

 Subject: KR> RPM Guage Selection
 To: "KRnet" 
 Cc: "bjoenunley" 
 Date: Monday, December 5, 2016, 7:18 PM


 ? ? 
 Dear All,
 I find myself in need of a new RPM guage.What kind or type
 do you use or recommend??
 I have been researching rpm guages for a week; mechanical,
 ones that read off of the P lead, ones that read off of both
 P leads, devices that plug into the vent hole of my slick
 magneto, so many. ?I would like to spend less than $200.
 ?
 Joe Nunley?CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor?Baker
 Florida?
 ___
 Search the KRnet Archives at
 http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
 Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at
 http://www.krnet.org/info.html.
 see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org
 to change options
 To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org

KR> RPM Guage Selection

[Larry Flesner]

>. ? It didn't work at all on my continental engine.

++

I use a tach that is driven from an electronic 
sensor mounted at the mechanical tach drive location on the 0-200.

See tach at bottom center of panel 
at   https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/32133949/IMG_8717.JPG

I don't remember the brand.  I'd have to do some 
research.  It has worked for 600 hours now.

Larry Flesner

KR> RPM Guage Selection

[bjoenunley]

?Tiny Tachs work great. Ron?
Tiny tack was my first attempt. ?It didn't work at all on my continental 
engine. ?I tried everything except cutting into my stainless steel ignition 
wire covers. ?I wrapped the sensing wire around my plug wire 19 times and it 
still read "0". ?I tried it with a pulse generator and nothing, I tried reading 
from the P lead, ?I finally conected the tiny tach to my car just to make sure 
it was working and it was. ?I like the digital Tachs because they provide more 
information like, tt, max rpm, and ignition failure.
If anyone has another suggestion to make tiny tach work I would love to try it, 
short of cutting into my spark plug wires.
Joe Nunley?CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor?Baker Florida?

KR> RPM Guage Selection

[bjoenunley]

Dear All,
I find myself in need of a new RPM guage.What kind or type do you use or 
recommend??
I have been researching rpm guages for a week; mechanical, ones that read off 
of the P lead, ones that read off of both P leads, devices that plug into the 
vent hole of my slick magneto, so many. ?I would like to spend less than $200. ?
Joe Nunley?CW2 US Army RetiredBaker JROTC Instructor?Baker Florida?

KR> rpm & tailwheels

[Mark Langford]

Mike,

I think I answered the wrong question.  The tailwheel itself looks just like 
the one we've been talking about...a four inch wheel.  See my link yesterday 
for Aircraft Products' email address.  You'd need to know the axle diameter. 
They come in both 3/8" and 1/2", and perhaps others, although aluminum 
tubing could be used as a spacer.

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
website at http://www.N56ML.com

KR> rpm & tailwheels

[Mark Langford]

Mike Stirewalt wrote:

> I never give any thought my under-appreciated tailwheel.  It must be a
> good one.  If it every needs replacement, can someone tell me what I've
> got?  I swiped this picture off of last year's so nicely done Gathering
> site.

That tailwheel looks like it was built by the KR2 plans, pages 41 and 42. 
There's one just like it on N891JF, and lots of other planes as well.

Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
website at http://www.N56ML.com
 

KR> rpm & tailwheels

[laser147 at juno.com]

"I was told, you'll lose 75 rpm for every 1000' altitude"

Only true south of the Equator.  

***

I never give any thought my under-appreciated tailwheel.  It must be a
good one.  If it every needs replacement, can someone tell me what I've
got?  I swiped this picture off of last year's so nicely done Gathering
site.  

Thanks, 

Mike
KSEE



One Weird Trick
Could add $1,000s to Your Social Security Checks! See if you Qualify
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/521d1c0b265cf1c0a7e36st01vuc
-- next part --
A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
Name: 335kctailwheel.jpg
Type: image/jpeg
Size: 43273 bytes
Desc: not available
URL: 

KR> rpm loss factors

[Larry Flesner]

At 08:52 PM 8/26/2013, you wrote:
>Does anyone know what an acceptable standard for (fixed pitch) rpm 
>loss with altitude is?  For example, I was told, you'll lose 75 rpm 
>for every 1000' altitude, regardless of mixture setting or climb/cruise prop.
++

You will loose approx 1 inch of manifold pressure with each thousand 
feet of altitude but that doesn't relate directly to rpm.  I was at 
9000 feet yesterday and still pulling 2450 rpm at cruise power 
setting.  If the 75 rpm lose per 1000 feet were true I'd have lost 
675 rpm and that's not the case.  I fly with an 0-200.

Larry Flesner

KR> rpm loss factors

[W Jennings]

Hello KRNET
Does anyone know what an acceptable standard for (fixed pitch) rpm loss with 
altitude is?  For example, I was told, you'll lose 75 rpm for every 1000' 
altitude, regardless of mixture setting or climb/cruise prop.  I'm wondering 
if this is true with VW/Corvair or is it just the Lycoming/Continental 
models or is it all engines.  In developing an owner's manual, how do you 
test/determine density altitude runway length safety factors?  Manually 
limiting rpm to simulate altitude comes to mind, but that brings the 
original question - what to limit it to.
Thanks!

KR> RPM meter

[Kenneth Watson]

Being more electronically oriented that flight oriented let me offer a
few opinions and maybe a description.

To hook directly to a mag it might be better to connect you rpm meter
through a capacitor of .1 to 0.01 microfarads, 600 volt rating vs a
direct contact. Same for any motor that is using points. This would
deliver the required spike to the tach with out lowering, very much,
the charge needed to fire the coil / spark plug.  I assume the tach
already has it?s own power connection. Find a film capacitor from on
line or local electronics store.

For the tiny tach, if you are really just winding a few turns around a
spark plug or coil wire I hope the insulation is VERY good on both.
Any leakage will almost surely over voltage the tach and destroy it.
If you do not use a shielded wire with the shield grounded you will
also pick up a lot of trash noise from the rest of the ignition system
giving unreliable results. Hopefully your sensing wire is not
immediately bundled with the rest of the ignition wires. Bundling
wires can cause enough cross talk that fools the tach?maybe. To me
there should be a ferrite that goes around the wire with a coil around
the ferrite for you to attach the tiny tach to. This provides
electrical isolation, and signal gain / noise rejection.

How many turns and which ferrite is a good question.

I do not know what the input voltage the sensor on these tachs can
stand but I would have a pair of  zener diodes attached back to back
across the tach input at their specified voltage to try and protect
it.

KR> RPM Gauge

[Jeff Scott]

Tiny Tach makes a digital tach that uses induced voltage from a wire wrapped 
around a spark plug lead as it's pick up.  I used one on a Slick mag on a VW 
with good results.  I think you'll find a write up on Mark L's web pages about 
him using a Tiny Tach on his Corvair as well.  He had some issues with it, but 
was eventually successful.  

I see that Aircraft Spruce doesn't show that it's an induction pick up off the 
plug wire in their write up anymore, but it still is.

Tiny Tach has a FAQ page at <http://www.tinytach.com/tinytach/fqa.php>
$36.95 (US) for any of the units on the Tiny Tach web site, or order through 
Aircraft Spruce if delivery to SA is an issue for them.

-Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM

-- Original Message --
From: "Willie van der Walt" <touri...@intekom.co.za>
To: "'KRnet'" <kr...@mylist.net>
Subject: KR> RPM Gauge
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 14:09:28 +0200

I used a VDO rev counter with the pickup on the deadcut point of one Slick
Magneto. There are two on the Limbach. Since I removed the wire from the
Magneto the engine is running much smoother. 

Now how can I measure the engine revs? There is no alternator on the motor.
Any ideas? Please help.



Best Weight Loss Program - Click Here!
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTFoYeaUe8jc9gL9njvkO58yLNZwhb6Fx6vp2fPKYXq17be5ejtOGM/

KR> RPM Gauge

[Paul & Karen Smith]

Not an expert on these things but it sounds like the little VDO was loading
the mag down, probably a low resistance movement or breaking down. 4 options
are to
1. try adding an in-line resistor of increasing value. If you get to the
stage where the engine is smooth and the tacho is still accurate you've had
a win. The analogue gauge actually "counts pulses". It has internal
transistors that "average the power going to the needle movement based on
the frequency of the pulses and only requires 6v or so to work. 
2. get a higher impedance ($$$) analogue gauge,
3. buy a digital tacho, you'll probably have to protect it with a high value
resistor (if it is not purpose built to operate on a magneto) as these
usually work on low voltage. Here is an example.
http://www.csharpprogrammer.com/wordpress/?p=8
4. Stay right away from the magneto by build a digital tacho kit from an
electronics shop. These have a magnetic (or hall efect) pickup you can
attach to the back of your prop hub (put two on for balance)

Good luck, 

Paul Smith
Brisbane, AUSTRALIA
pk.sm...@bigpond.net.au
http://kr2spacemodulator.blogspot.com/


-Original Message-

I used a VDO rev counter with the pickup on the deadcut point of one Slick
Magneto. There are two on the Limbach. Since I removed the wire from the
Magneto the engine is running much smoother. 

Now how can I measure the engine revs? There is no alternator on the motor.
Any ideas? Please help.

KR> RPM Gauge

[Willie van der Walt]

I used a VDO rev counter with the pickup on the deadcut point of one Slick
Magneto. There are two on the Limbach. Since I removed the wire from the
Magneto the engine is running much smoother. 

Now how can I measure the engine revs? There is no alternator on the motor.
Any ideas? Please help.

KR> RPM

[Eric Evezard]

Hi Netters,
I am getting 2100 rpm with a 52/48 prop static.The engine runs very 
smoothly,and responds well but on increasing throttle at 2100 rpm the engine 
quietens and revs drop.On throttling back I can get 2100 again and very smooth 
running.The engine is a 2 l VW as new,running on twin Zenith/stromberg 
carbs.Ignition (for now) is a VW Points distributor.with centrifugal advance 
and vacuum advance.I intend going for a Compufire ignition system with backup, 
later on,but would like to hear your views,on this engine going quiet and rev 
drop on increasing throttle above 2100 revs static.
Best Regards,
Eric
ZU - BMP
ZS - GML.
South Africa.

KR> RPM

[Mark Langford]

Eric wrote:

> I am getting 2100 rpm with a 52/48 prop static.The engine runs very 
> smoothly,and responds well but on increasing throttle at 2100 rpm the 
> engine quietens and revs drop.On throttling back I can get 2100 again and 
> very smooth running.The engine is a 2 l VW as new,running on twin 
> Zenith/stromberg carbs.Ignition (for now) is a VW Points distributor.with 
> centrifugal advance and vacuum advance.I intend going for a Compufire 
> ignition system with backup, later on,but would like to hear your views,on 
> this engine going quiet and rev drop on increasing throttle above 2100 
> revs static.<

Sounds like the timing is retarding at higher throttle settings, which would 
not be surprising if you have the vacuum advance/retard unit plugged into 
the wrong kind of vacuum source.  You need to make absolutely sure that the 
timing is doing what you think it's doing, and understand fully the 
operation of that particular distributor and the vacuum sources that operate 
it.

 Most folks replace the stock distributor with something with pure 
mechanical advance (like the Bosch 009).  It makes timing dirt simple.  You 
set it up for a maximum advance of something like 30-32 degrees BTDC at full 
throttle (which ought to be over 2500 rpm, for sure), and then readjust idle 
speed for whatever advance you get at idle.

Mark Langford
email: N56ML "a" hiwaay.net
website:  www.N56ML.com

> 

KR> RPM

[Eric Kelsheimer]

 Hello Eric, My first best guess would be to check your timing 
your not getting full advance and your engine is dropping rpm because it 
cant work any faster without getting more advance.

Hi Netters,
I am getting 2100 rpm with a 52/48 prop static.The engine runs very 
smoothly,and responds well but on increasing throttle at 2100 rpm the engine 
quietens and revs drop.On throttling back I can get 2100 again and very 
smooth running 

KR> RPM

[phil brookman]

could also be worth checking mixture to see if it is not weak  ...
phill
- Original Message - 
From: "Eric Evezard" <bonza...@netactive.co.za>
To: "KR News" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2007 3:06 PM
Subject: KR> RPM


> Hi Netters,
> I am getting 2100 rpm with a 52/48 prop static.The engine runs very 
> smoothly,and responds well but on increasing throttle at 2100 rpm the 
> engine quietens and revs drop.On throttling back I can get 2100 again and 
> very smooth running.The engine is a 2 l VW as new,running on twin 
> Zenith/stromberg carbs.Ignition (for now) is a VW Points distributor.with 
> centrifugal advance and vacuum advance.I intend going for a Compufire 
> ignition system with backup, later on,but would like to hear your views,on 
> this engine going quiet and rev drop on increasing throttle above 2100 
> revs static.
> Best Regards,
> Eric
> ZU - BMP
> ZS - GML.
> South Africa.
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to 
> http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
>
>
> -- 
> Internal Virus Database is out-of-date.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.410 / Virus Database: 268.17.15/659 - Release Date: 
> 30/01/2007 09:31
>
> 

-- 
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 25548 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Get the free SPAMfighter here: http://www.spamfighter.com/len

KR> RPM

[RANDY POWELL]

Have you checked your fuel flow ??.   It sounds like it may be starving for 
fuel when it goes above the 2100 RPM.You may need to richen up the carbs 
on the full throttle side.
- Original Message - 
From: "Eric Evezard" <bonza...@netactive.co.za>
To: "KR News" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 01, 2007 10:06 AM
Subject: KR> RPM


> Hi Netters,
> I am getting 2100 rpm with a 52/48 prop static.The engine runs very 
> smoothly,and responds well but on increasing throttle at 2100 rpm the 
> engine quietens and revs drop.On throttling back I can get 2100 again and 
> very smooth running.The engine is a 2 l VW as new,running on twin 
> Zenith/stromberg carbs.Ignition (for now) is a VW Points distributor.with 
> centrifugal advance and vacuum advance.I intend going for a Compufire 
> ignition system with backup, later on,but would like to hear your views,on 
> this engine going quiet and rev drop on increasing throttle above 2100 
> revs static.
> Best Regards,
> Eric
> ZU - BMP
> ZS - GML.
> South Africa.
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> Post photos, introductions, and For Sale items to 
> http://www.kr2forum.com/phpBB2/index.php
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
> 

KR> RPM

[Willie van der Walt]

  Hi Eric
  My KR2 (Shrek) did the same at one stage and I found the spring that opens 
the throttle came off. My system works like this: When you open the throttle 
the slack on the cable allows the spring that is mounted on the other side 
of the carb throttle lever to pull the lever open. The throttle cable 
actualy pulls the carb closed. You can phone me @ 0835805703 if you like
  Regards
  Willie

  > Subject: KR> RPM
  >
  >
  >> Hi Netters,
  >> I am getting 2100 rpm with a 52/48 prop static.The engine runs very
  >> smoothly,and responds well but on increasing throttle at 2100 rpm the
  >> engine quietens and revs drop.On throttling back I can get 2100 again 
and
  >> very smooth running.The engine is a 2 l VW as new,running on twin
  >> Zenith/stromberg carbs.Ignition (for now) is a VW Points 
distributor.with
  >> centrifugal advance and vacuum advance.I intend going for a Compufire
  >> ignition system with backup, later on,but would like to hear your 
views,on
  >> this engine going quiet and rev drop on increasing throttle above 2100
  >> revs static.
  >> Best Regards,
  >> Eric
  >> ZU - BMP
  >> ZS - GML.
  >> South Africa.

KR> rpm and boost pressure- sorry it is so long

[Jaco Swanepoel]

Hi Guys,
  I need some info please. I was getting 1900 rpm max on my 2L,VW, Type 4, 
Turbo, Fuel Injection. After consulting various people, I rebuilt the exhaust 
manifold and re-set the hydraulic lifters. Now I manage to get 2800 rpm but 
still no boost from the turbo. I stripped out the turbo and took it to a local 
turbo repair shop. They say that the gap between the disc and the casing is 2mm 
and it should only be 3/10 of 1mm. I gave them the go ahead to rebuild it, but 
could this really be the problem. What rpm and boost should I be getting?? 
Apparently it should be 3400-3600 rpm and 40 in boost. Does this sound right? I 
am turning a 52 x 49 wooden prop. One guy also suggested that I replace the 
hydraulic lifters with solid lifters, any thoughts?
  Regards,
  Jaco Swanepoel
  Pretoria
  South Africa
  KR2S,  ZU-DVP


-
Sneak preview the  all-new Yahoo.com. It's not radically different. Just 
radically better. 

KR> rpm and boost pressure- sorry it is so long

[D F Lively]

Jaco:

I am not an expert on this but personally I think the use of  a turbo chager 
beyond that required to maintain max HP at Sea Level Std. Conditions is hard on 
the engine.  In other words use the turbo charger to hold sea level performance 
to altitude and compensate for high density altitude conditions.  RPM has to be 
limited by propeller tip speed and prop pitch by manifold pressure limits.  
From thoise you should have some idea of HP developed to compare to base 
performance of the engine.

I am sure there is someone on here that can really transfer understanding 
better than I.

Don





Jaco Swanepoel wrote:

> Hi Guys,
>   I need some info please. I was getting 1900 rpm max on my 2L,VW, Type 4, 
> Turbo, Fuel Injection. After consulting various people, I rebuilt the exhaust 
> manifold and re-set the hydraulic lifters. Now I manage to get 2800 rpm but 
> still no boost from the turbo. I stripped out the turbo and took it to a 
> local turbo repair shop. They say that the gap between the disc and the 
> casing is 2mm and it should only be 3/10 of 1mm. I gave them the go ahead to 
> rebuild it, but could this really be the problem. What rpm and boost should I 
> be getting?? Apparently it should be 3400-3600 rpm and 40 in boost. Does this 
> sound right? I am turning a 52 x 49 wooden prop. One guy also suggested that 
> I replace the hydraulic lifters with solid lifters, any thoughts?
>   Regards,
>   Jaco Swanepoel
>   Pretoria
>   South Africa
>   KR2S,  ZU-DVP
>
>
> -
> Sneak preview the  all-new Yahoo.com. It's not radically different. Just 
> radically better.
> ___
> Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
> to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> rpm and boost pressure- sorry it is so long

[Stephen Teate]

Sorry Jaco but the only info I can help with is the turbo. That gap is
very much the problem. A turbo is just a centrifugal compressor jet
engine without the burner cans and just like any jet engine tip
clearances are extremely important. I don't know what the tip clearance
should be on your particular model but if it is a reputable turbo shop
they will have all that info and the experience to rebuild it. I am a
big fan of turbos but how they are used does affect engine life. Don't
know what kind of oil you are using but if you haven't considered it you
might think about synthetic.
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress,

Stephen Teate
Paradise, Texas
ste...@compositecooling.com

-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On
Behalf Of Jaco Swanepoel
Sent: Saturday, June 03, 2006 11:18 AM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: KR> rpm and boost pressure- sorry it is so long

Hi Guys,
  I need some info please. I was getting 1900 rpm max on my 2L,VW, Type
4, Turbo, Fuel Injection. After consulting various people, I rebuilt the
exhaust manifold and re-set the hydraulic lifters. Now I manage to get
2800 rpm but still no boost from the turbo. I stripped out the turbo and
took it to a local turbo repair shop. They say that the gap between the
disc and the casing is 2mm and it should only be 3/10 of 1mm. I gave
them the go ahead to rebuild it, but could this really be the problem.
What rpm and boost should I be getting?? Apparently it should be
3400-3600 rpm and 40 in boost. Does this sound right? I am turning a 52
x 49 wooden prop. One guy also suggested that I replace the hydraulic
lifters with solid lifters, any thoughts?
  Regards,
  Jaco Swanepoel
  Pretoria
  South Africa
  KR2S,  ZU-DVP


-
Sneak preview the  all-new Yahoo.com. It's not radically different. Just
radically better. 
___
Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp
to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net
please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html

KR> rpm & boost

[Jaco Swanepoel]

Thanks to all that responded. I will be getting my turbo back tomorrow. I will 
keep you updated.
  Regards,
  Jaco Swanepoel
  Pretoria
  South Africa
  KR2S,  ZU-DVP


-
Ring'em or ping'em. Make  PC-to-phone calls as low as 1¢/min with Yahoo! 
Messenger with Voice.