re: [lace] Lace legends?

2018-08-31 Thread Sally Jenkins
Because I get the digest form I can't respond directly, so must copy and
paste. Liz R wondered about a village in France where the old lacemakers
had all lost their eyesight - fact or fiction?. I'm just now re-reading
"Take the Children," and loss of eyesight due to poor light and general
poor working conditions is certainly a main point of that book. Nowhere
have I seen, though I have often wondered, how much of the lost eyesight -
English children or French elders - was due to malnutrition and lack of
sunlight, fresh produce, vitamins, fresh air, and general health and
hygiene. In addition to poor light and working on black lace, of course.
I realize I haven't addressed Liz's question about the particular French
village - it would be interesting to hear if someone else can address that
too.
Sally in western Oregon, USA

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[lace] Prize winning Lappets.

2018-08-31 Thread Elizabeth Ligeti
Congratulations, Alice in Oregon. I hope you are going to wear the lappets –
like you did, I seem to remember, some years ago at an IOLI Convention. I
think you wore different ones each day, from your collection.
I hope you can post a photo of your lappets for us to see – but Not on
Facebook- I don’t do that list –  show it here in Flikr!  Pretty please!!

Regards from Liz. In Melbourne, Oz.

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Re: [lace] Re: Viking needlelace !?!

2018-08-31 Thread N.A. Neff
Sorry, not Tafel 29 (Plate 29), but Figure 29 (Abb. 29), item b -- p. 119
of the PDF. And Levey's quote below refers to bobbin lace, which I've not
found an example of. The items I'm identifying as lace are needlelace.

On Fri, Aug 31, 2018 at 2:27 PM, N.A. Neff  wrote:

> I think Levey might have overlooked something. The German text
> specifically says that Tafel 29, item b, was done without a ground fabric.
>
> Nancy
> Connecticut, USA
>
> On Fri, Aug 31, 2018 at 2:20 PM, Devon Thein  wrote:
>
>> ..."but for the remains of some fragments of the ground material, could
>> be taken for primitive bobbin lace." So, I guess [Levey] is characterizing
>> these interesting fragments as embroideries that have lost their fabric.
>>
>
>

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[lace] Demise of Fine Linen Lace, was Faery Lace

2018-08-31 Thread Janice Blair
I haven't seen this mentioned in the emails about fine linen thread.  I
heard or read somewhere that the air pollution of the Industrial Revolution
had a cause on the flax plants and effected their growth. I am sure the first
world war also had a detrimental effect on the growing areas.Janice Janice
Blair Murrieta, CA, jblace.com

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RE: [lace] Re: Demise of Fine Linen Lace, was Faery Lace

2018-08-31 Thread Lorelei Halley
Back in the 1980s there was a brief period when linen thread in 140/2 and
120/2 was available, but only for a few years. It has since disappeared.
Since 1980, when I started lace making, there hasn't been anything finer,
thinner. I don't know what the finest size threads were available for
antique laces.
Lorelei

Subject: Re: [lace] Re: Demise of Fine Linen Lace, was Faery Lace

I have heard of old Mechlin being made with 240/2 linen thread.
Liz R, Raleigh NC

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Re: [lace] Re: Demise of Fine Linen Lace, was Faery Lace

2018-08-31 Thread Lbuyred
I have heard of old Mechlin being made with 240/2 linen thread.
Liz R, Raleigh NC

> Can anyone be more specific? What do you mean by "fine linen thread"?
> 

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Re: [lace] Re: Viking needlelace !?!

2018-08-31 Thread N.A. Neff
I think Levey might have overlooked something. The German text specifically
says that Tafel 29, item b, was done without a ground fabric.

Nancy
Connecticut, USA

On Fri, Aug 31, 2018 at 2:20 PM, Devon Thein  wrote:

> ..."but for the remains of some fragments of the ground material, could be
> taken for primitive bobbin lace." So, I guess she is characterizing these
> interesting fragments as embroideries that have lost their fabric.
>

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Re: [lace] Re: Viking needlelace !?!

2018-08-31 Thread Devon Thein
Another interesting find is looping that looks like needle lace in the
prehistoric American Southwest. The article found here:
https://www.archaeologysouthwest.org/pdf/pecos2008_webster.pdf has a
diagram on page 13 which could well be found in a needle lace book and
photos of bags on p. 14 in this technique.
Santina Levey on p. 5 of Lace, a History makes the point that various
techniques, decorated edges, surface decoration, decorated seams and
passamenterie existed, and "There was no moment at which any of the
above techniques either changed into or were replaced by lace.
Gradually, however, during the second quarter of the sixteenth
century, changing tastes in trimmings and embroidery resulted in the
exaggeration of certain effects: in particular, greater emphasis was
placed on decorated seams and edgings while elaborate white embroidery
and fancy open-work braids formed  an increasingly important part of
surface decoration.  Needle and bobbin lace began to emerge in
response to these demands but it was a long time before they were seen
to have become separated from the older techniques and, because their
origins lay with different technical groupings, they did not at first
resemble one another sufficiently closely to be called by the same
name."
Incidentally, Levey refers to Birka and this exact publication in the
sentence before this paragraph. " The lace-like effect of interlaced
faggot stitch can be seen in Swiss and German white embroideries of
the fifteenth century and also in the excavated fragments from the
ninth-century site at Birka in Sweden which, but for the remains of
some fragments of the ground material, could be taken for primitive
bobbin lace." So, I guess she is characterizing these interesting
fragments as embroideries that have lost their fabric.
Devon

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Re: [lace] Viking needlelace !?!

2018-08-31 Thread J Reardon
I looked at the document with photos of the archeological finds and the 
Wordpress blog showing recreations. How beautiful. I know the Posament, as the 
blogger calls them, isn’t needle lace but it’s very cool. Maybe I’m imagining 
it but it reminded me of Celtic knots. Viking raids on Ireland started 795, 
from on online source. The Posament were made after that. 

Jean Reardon 
Western Pennsylvania 

> Certainly the posaments are gorgeous when recreated. One example is here:
> https://earlysweden.wordpress.com/2016/03/07/10th-century-posament-based-on-f
> inds-at-birka/

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Re: [lace] Re: Viking needlelace !?!

2018-08-31 Thread lynrbailey
Very interesting pictures.  While dreaming of Viking needlelace, don't forget 
nalbinding, which is the Viking version of knitting, done with a needle and 
thread.  As presently constituted at L'Anse aux Meadows in Newfoundland, at 
least, it replaces knitting, but could conceivably be more lace like, depending 
on the size of the thread and loops.  I am taking a class at the Rhinebeck NY 
Sheep and Wool in Viking knitting, but it's nalbinding.  You end up with a 
bracelet, a rather open weave.  

Lyn from Lancaster, Pennsylvania, presently in Brussels


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>Also look at the plates in the back of the monograph, especially plates 31
>and 32.
>
>On Thu, Aug 30, 2018 at 2:51 PM, N.A. Neff  wrote:
>
>> ...The monograph on the textiles has been digitized and is on line:
>> http://historiska.se/birka/digitala-resurser/filer/pdf/Birka_III.pdf
>>

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Re: [lace] Guilty Pleasures, was Demise of Fine Linen Lace, was Faery Lace

2018-08-31 Thread Devon Thein
I have lately become obsessed with taking close-up photos of gros
point in my collection with my Iphone using the olloclip attachment
and a thin transparent millimeter measure that I wedge between the
olloclip and the lace. Yes, the 10,000 stitches per square inch is
something that is true, not a lace legend. I have to admit that the
methodology has its limitations in that the thin millimeter measure
does change the plane a bit when doing these close-ups with the
olloclip and the highly textured gros point is also challenging. But,
what a treat it is to make microscope photos of lace at your kitchen
table when bored, using only a cellphone, an inexpensive olloclip and
a cheap millimeter measure. No fancy computer or fancy computer skills
required. I think that it would be even easier to get thread counts
from flat lace such as Nancy's lappet. Wouldn't it be nice to have a
flicker account with these photos and for us to vie for the
distinction of producing the photo demonstrating the thinnest thread?
Perhaps we would even discover something of historical significance.
Devon

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Re: [lace] Fine linen threads

2018-08-31 Thread N.A. Neff
Oh Elise! This is wonderful!!! Please post updates to Arachne as things
progress!

Nancy
Connecticut, USA

On Fri, Aug 31, 2018 at 12:40 PM, Elise Waber Hays 
wrote:

> I posted about my interest in experimenting with different cultivars of
> flax to produce a fine linen thread in 2016. I guess it is time for an
> update! By using a research facility,  I was able to obtain seeds for 4
> cultivars not commercially available; ...

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Re: [lace] Re: Demise of Fine Linen Lace, was Faery Lace

2018-08-31 Thread N.A. Neff
Hi Jane,

Some of the pieces I have are made with linen thread as fine or finer than
180 cotton. The thread in one lappet is so fine that it is hard to see in
the cloth-stitch areas that it's made of thread at all.

I will try to upload a photo to Arachne on Flickr when I get home.

Nancy
Connecticut, USA

On Fri, Aug 31, 2018 at 12:41 PM, Jane  wrote:

> Can anyone be more specific? What do you mean by "fine linen thread"?
>
>

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[lace] Fine linen threads

2018-08-31 Thread Elise Waber Hays
I posted about my interest in experimenting with different cultivars of
flax to produce a fine linen thread in 2016. I guess it is time for an
update! By using a research facility,  I was able to obtain seeds for 4
cultivars not commercially available; two from France, one from Belgium,
and one from Hungary if I remember correctly. The seed packets were very
small, so my first goal was simply to raise each cultivar in isolation from
the other and collect the seeds so I would have more to work with. Next
season's goals are to replant, record heights and characteristics (with
documentation and photos), and to try specific crosses and then save the
seeds from those crosses. During the winter, I hope to process the fibers
from each group and add observations and measurements of the linen fibers
themselves to the documentation. The following season, plant the seeds from
the crosses as well as the original 4 cultivars (to act as controls or
comparisons) and continue to document and build from there. I don't think
it will be particularly difficult to breed longer fibers, because there is
quite a bit of natural variation in plant height and those heights are well
studied and characteristic of the cultivar. I am actually more interested
to see if there is enough variation in the individual fiber diameters of
the different cultivars to indicate that breeding a finer fiber is
possible.
I too would be interested in any evidence that is actually documented
regarding the disappearance of the fine thread cultivars. I read the French
Revolution theory somewhere, but I think it was just anecdotal. It would be
interesting to search the newspapers and records of the time and see if any
mention was made of burning the fields and the seed stockpiles.

Elise in Maine

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[lace] Re: Demise of Fine Linen Lace, was Faery Lace

2018-08-31 Thread Jane

Can anyone be more specific? What do you mean by "fine linen thread"?

I ask because lacemakers look at my work and say "isn't that fine!" when 
I'm using 80 cotton. Which isn't fine at all. I would consider a fine 
cotton to be about 160 to 180.


We used to get fine linen thread from Ireland and when that was no 
longer available changed to Swedish Bockens. Campbells Irish linen was 
still available but not in the finer threads.


Yours inquisitively,
Jane
New Forest, UK

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Re: [lace] Faery Lace?

2018-08-31 Thread Ilske Thomsen
Dear Lyn,
again a bit late. In a certain time If I am right at the beginning of 20th 
century a sort of Binche (with lots of tallies) was named Feen-Spitze - 
fairy-lace.

Ilske

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[lace] Lace legends?

2018-08-31 Thread Lbuyred
Speaking of possible lace legends, I have long been curious about a fictional 
account of a lace village in France where most of the older lace makers had 
lost their sight.  This was supposedly due to making lace for long hours in 
poor light.  However I have never seen anything about this in any non-fiction 
accounts.  Is this just a legend?
Liz R, Raleigh, NC USA

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Re: [lace] Viking needlelace !?!

2018-08-31 Thread Jazmin
There's been a lot of really cool experimental archeology in the
re-enactment world looking at all the bits of the Birka find. Any textiles
those bits you're looking at were once attached to are long gone, and just
the metal is left.

Certainly the posaments are gorgeous when recreated. One example is here:
https://earlysweden.wordpress.com/2016/03/07/10th-century-posament-based-on-f
inds-at-birka/

The most comment reference to the loopy stuff is viking wire weaving..
which is a really neat technique to go investigate.  I wouldnt call any of
them lace, or textiles in their own right. I tend to define 'needle lace'
as requiring both a needle and thread, and these are all metal. But I <3
them just the same.

Happy Friday!

Heather in suddenly cool SW Ontario, Canada

On Fri, Aug 31, 2018 at 6:12 AM AGlez  wrote:

> Hi Nancy,
>
> This document is really interesting. It will take me a while to read it all
> through. No wonder you are excited about this finding! Thanks a lot for
> sharing!
>
> Antje González, from Spain
>
> -
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>

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[lace] Arachne is alive and well

2018-08-31 Thread lynrbailey
There has been some concerns expressed recently about the survival of Arachne 
in view of other media outlets.  I know of no other place where one can throw 
out a technical question, whether on lace identification, or the demise of fine 
linen threads and have the experts weigh in and give such complete answers.  
This doesn't happen often, of course, but it certainly happens often enough for 
Arachne to be a vital force in the lacemaking world.

lrb


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Re: [lace] Jacquard technology

2018-08-31 Thread Jean Leader
> On 30 Aug 2018, at 16:06, Devon Thein  wrote:
> 
> Previously, lacemaking machines were run on Jacquard technology in
> which the movement of the machine was directed by punched cards. 

MYB Textiles in Ayrshire Scotland has updated 100-year old lace machines that 
used punched cards so that they are now networked to CAD computers in their 
design office. As Gil said the cards are basic computing technology. See 
https://www.mybtextiles.com/history/
The rest of their website is interesting too.

Jean in sunny Glasgow

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Re: [lace] Viking needlelace !?!

2018-08-31 Thread AGlez
Hi Nancy,

This document is really interesting. It will take me a while to read it all
through. No wonder you are excited about this finding! Thanks a lot for
sharing!

Antje González, from Spain

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Re: [lace] Faery Lace?

2018-08-31 Thread Brenda Paternoster
I have been following this thread about the loss of very fine flax with
interest.

I know that about ten years ago Bart & Francis in Belgium were looking into
the possibility of producing fine linen thread again, and Francis Busschaert
kindly sent me a sample of 130/2 NeL linen.  His comments at the time were
that the thread was brittle but they didn’t want to use
wax/cornflower/starch because that would affect the end product and that the
mercerisation process doesn’t work on very fine linen.  He also said that
separating out the finest fibres was horrendously expensive and would yield
maybe only 10kg from a 200Kg bale.  That would have made the price of a 250
metre spool about 12-15 Euros (ten years ago) which was more than he thought
even the specialist lacemaking market would bear.

I measured the sample as 34 wraps/cm which isn’t that fine when compared to
the finest cottons.  The next thickness up in the B range of linen is 60/2
NeL is still available on their website, and which I have measured  as 24
wraps/cm.

I believe that the reason for the loss of the finest cultivars was a
combination of commercial pressures and the mechanisation processes which were
not suited to the finest flax and that these were exacerbated by wars.

Like it or not, the world has moved on and very fine linen is not available
any more.  There are other fibres which can be spun into very fine threads,
cotton and silk are best suited to lacemaking, though the finest are the
synthetics and I guess that medical use is the driver in the development of
those.

Brenda

> On 31 Aug 2018, at 05:50, robinl...@socal.rr.com wrote:
>
> 1) The cost of breeding over many generations to produce the extra-fine
fibers,
>
> (2) the cost of growing the more fragile plants (those fibers are what keep
the plants standing upright),
>
> (3) the cost of trying to spin and weave on mass-market machinery (where
speed trumps delicacy and fragile fibers can't take the stress), and
>
> (4) the delicacy of the resulting fabric (can't be machine washed or machine
dried or machine dry-cleaned, and even hand-washing has to be extra-careful)

Brenda in Allhallows

paternos...@appleshack.com
www.brendapaternoster.co.uk

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Re: [lace] Demise of Fine Linen Lace, was Faery Lace

2018-08-31 Thread N.A. Neff
It has taken a concerted effort, in modern times, to set up seed banks, in
which seeds of strains no longer being grown or of species threatened with
extinction, are saved and protected. Seed isn't viable forever: these seed
banks have to maintain special conditions to store the seed. If I were an
individual in a country being threatened or invaded by a hostile army, and
with shortages of food and other items, perhaps a woman whose husband has
been conscripted and whose children are hungry, saving some seeds of a
plant no longer useful to me would be the last thing I'd bother with, even
if I could keep the seed viable. We need to look at the situation from the
perspective of the people under the conditions of the time. Why would they
be willing to save something that could get them killed (the French
Revolution scenario) or something no longer useful to them (WWI, economic
pressures)?

Nancy
Connecticut, USA

On Fri, Aug 31, 2018 at 3:01 AM,  wrote:

> "...It appears that the seeds from next years crop comes from this year's
> crop.  That being said, I cannot see a flax grower of the very fine flax
> not saving some of those seeds..."
>

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Re: [lace] Demise of Fine Linen Lace, was Faery Lace

2018-08-31 Thread N.A. Neff
Lyn,

I don't think the starvation in Belgium would have had anything to do with
it. If the relevant cultivars' extinction was caused by WWI in Flanders, it
would have been because of the abandonment of growing flax in the middle of
the turmoil of the war, combined with the destruction of the habitat by the
incredible shelling and laying waste to the land during the trench warfare.
(Look at photos of Flanders at this time, and it's in the writings too: the
landscape is a sea of mud, perhaps with a single dead tree still standing.
The amount of the countryside destroyed was incredible.)

If it helps to think in terms of animals for a minute, consider that many
types of highly domesticated animals cannot survive in the wild on their
own. The domesticated breeds are usually at most subspecies, perhaps only
strains, of the species in question--we're not talking about the species
going extinct. If all the individuals of such a dependent breed were
abandoned, however, perhaps because they were no longer commercially
viable, that breed would go extinct.

Now apply the same scenario to flax. The strains, or cultivars, from which
the finest thread could be made, might have been abandoned, whether because
of the turmoil of war and habitat destruction (WWI), deliberate enforcement
and extermination (French Revolution), or loss of economic incentive due to
inefficiencies in manufacture (Alex's hypothesis). And because they
couldn't maintain themselves without human cultivation, those particular,
less hardy, strains (cultivars) went extinct.

Now does that particular hypothesis about WWI make better sense?

HTH,

Nancy
Connecticut, USA

On Fri, Aug 31, 2018 at 2:35 AM,  wrote:

> "...The idea that the fine thread plants died out, I heard in WWI when
> Belgium was starved makes no sense to me..."

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[lace] Faery Lace?

2018-08-31 Thread lacel...@frontier.com
In my studies of lace history, the old very-fine threads ceased being produced 
about 1800.  The cotton gin was invented about 1790.  It let cotton be produced 
in great quantity at a much cheaper price than fine linen.  For comparison, if 
a spool of cotton were $10, a spool of linen would be $100.  



Combine that with the fact that cotton thread is smooth and runs through 
machine gears without binding.  Linen thread tends to have some thicker spots 
in it.  The new lace machines used the smoother, less expensive thread for 
multiple reasons.

Also, the newest thing is the fashion fad, so cotton lace (especially machine 
made) was in vogue.  It didn't matter that it was cheaper, thicker, and 
possibly not quite as pretty as handnmade -- it was the "in" thing.


By 1800, the linen thread was no longer in demand, and the supplies in the 
warehouse were not moving. The long, thin variety of flax was no longer 
planted. The thread supplies that they did have on hand were gradually used so 
there were no more available by 1830.  Eventually, even the seeds to the 
special flax variety were gone.

Alice in Oregon -- where I just won State Fair Best in Division for my lace 
lappet, made from the OIDFA lappet book we got a few years ago.

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[lace] Demise of Fine Linen Lace, was Faery Lace

2018-08-31 Thread lynrbailey
It appears that the seeds from next years crop comes from this year's crop.  
That being said, I cannot see a flax grower of the very fine flax not saving 
some of those seeds.  Or losing all those cultivars. And while Belgium was 
certainly bombed to death in places during WWI, such as Iepres, Ypres, Kortrijk 
and Brugge were untouched, so the farmland around it would have been fine.  
Don't know about WWII, but the very fine linen thread was gone by then. 

Do we know any linen handspinners?

Lyn presently in Brussels. 


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[lace] Demise of Fine Linen Lace, was Faery Lace

2018-08-31 Thread lynrbailey
Alex Stillwell has stated that the reason for the demise of the really fine 
lace thread is that the spinning machines can't accept the long filaments the 
way handspinners could.  I went to the Texture museum in Kortrijk yesterday, 
(in my opinion not as interesting as the old museum in the country) and with 
linen on the rise, (have you tried linen sheets?  amazing) fine thread may 
reappear and we can jump on the bandwagon.  The idea that the fine thread 
plants died out, I heard in WWI when Belgium was starved makes no sense to me.  
The texture museum said the filaments can be as long as 120 cm, and that sounds 
long enough to make a fine thread by hand, certainly.

Lyn from Lancaster, Pennsylvania, USA, presently in Brussels, where it's cool, 
sort of cloudy.  Looking forward to going home on Labor Day, Sept 3.


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