[lace] Textile Encyclopedia Proposals
Dear Arachnids, I hope you are all doing well! I wanted to send an updated call for proposals for the Bloomsbury Encyclopedia of World Textiles, of which I am volume editor of the lace category. We have extended the call for contributions to the end of January in the hopes of including a broad range of topics in Volume 3, which we are calling "Lace, Knit, Nonwoven, and Speciality Structures." The proposals can be very brief, but the final articles will be between 2,000 and 4,000 words and due at the end of next year. While we have gotten several proposals on bobbin lace, there are still many other topics in lace and beyond that we are eager to include! See below for more information: Lace, knit, nonwoven and speciality structures This volume brings together the diverse range of textile structures and their processes that are constructed in ways other than weaving on a loom. We are seeking entries that provide context to a chosen structure that places the textile within one or more of the following (though not exhaustive and other proposals are also welcome) perspectives: - Historical - General crafts or regional crafts from around the globe - Products - In fashion - Design - Technology, processes and techniques - Suggestions for entries for lace include types of: - Bobbin lace - Macrame - Needle lace - Cutwork and Drawnwork lace - Tatting - Crocheted lace - Teneriffe/sol lace - Machine-made lace and lace machines - Suggestions for entries for knit include: - Weft - Warp - Flat - Circular - Single-bed - Double-bed - Hand knitting - Plush, velvour Suggestions for entries for nonwoven include: - Felts â wool and needle / Needle Felting - Facemask Culture - Hat making - Wallcoverings - Carpets - Bonded webs â dry laid, wet laid, direct spun, / Nonwovens Technology - Stitch bonded - Tufted fabrics Suggestions for entries for speciality structures include: - Basketry - Kumihimo - Loop braiding - Nalbinding - Passementerie Please send proposals to: Elena Kanagy-Loux (Lace) Antonio Ratti Textile Center, The Metropolitan Museum of Art Email: enkanagyl...@gmail.com Dr Tracy Cassidy (Knit) School of Art, Design & Architecture University of Huddersfield Email: t.d.cass...@hud.ac.uk Dr Muhammad Tausif (Nonwovens) School of Design, University of Leeds Email: m.tau...@leeds.ac.uk Please feel free to share this far and wide within your own networks, and do be in touch with me if you have any questions! Best Wishes, Elena - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: Re[2]: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia
This is what it says on the site: "Prospective contributors are invited to submit brief proposals, identifying the proposed topic and volume, and may submit proposals for more than one topic or volume." It says submissions will be 4K words or less, with drafts coming in from July 2020 to December 2021. But, I do not see a timeframe for proposals. Kim On Tue, Oct 20, 2020 at 10:27 AM Devon Thein wrote: > What exactly is the submission process? > Devon > > > - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: Re[2]: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia
What exactly is the submission process? Devon - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: Re[2]: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia
In going to reply to this email I realized that the email address listed for proposals is now out of date! Please send all proposals to Vivienne Richmond, one of the project editors along with Janis Jeffries at: vivie...@viviennerichmond.com For the proposal I think they are looking for a short (one paragraph to one page) proposal for each article that you would like to write, as well as your CV. I hope that helps! Best, Elena On Tue, Oct 20, 2020 at 1:28 PM Devon Thein wrote: > What exactly is the submission process? > Devon > > > - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: Re[2]: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia
That's a great question, Kim, and one that I don't have an exact answer for yet. If I recall correctly I think they will vary in length from short entries to longer, in-depth articles. So there would be room for both a longer, more general entry on the development of bobbin lace, for example, followed by shorter entries on very specific aspects or regional varieties. But we are still fleshing all of this out. I think a lot of it has to do with the kind of submissions that we get! Best, Elena - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: Re[2]: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia
I agree, Devon, and was looking at where we could fit lace in. I wondered if embellishment (vol 5) is appropriate for some types of lace. Certainly lace can stand alone, but is also often used as a trim applique on other textiles. Would this delve into braids? Knotting? I am also curious, Elena, how the encyclopedia will be structured within each volume. When I think of an encyclopedia, I think of an exhaustive list of short entries on a topic. Is it going to have that sort of thing along with articles, or just in depth articles? Kim - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia
Perhaps the problem is in using the phrasing, woven or non-woven. Years ago when I first encountered this problem, it was suggested in the literature, to use loom or off loom textiles. This labelling is never going to be successfully agreed to. Just my two cents, Dianne > On Oct 20, 2020, at 8:03 AM, Elena Kanagy-Loux wrote: > > To clarify, I don't disagree with anyone here but I was attempting to > answer the question of why bobbin lace was included in the Non-Wovens > Volume. Apologies if it came off poorly. There are definitely many textiles > that will be difficult to categorize, and having a in-depth examination of > the structure of bobbin lace would be a great benefit to the project. Thank > you again for the thought-provoking conversation! > > Best, > Elena > >> > > - > To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: > unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to > arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: Re[2]: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia
I love that idea, Devon. Absolutely, lace should be in every volume. Here's the complete list of volumes for all that are interested: 1. Raw Materials: natural fibers, synthetic filaments, blending fibers, spinning and twining threads and yarns 2. Cloth in Cultures â Wovens: woven structures, techniques and technologies in the history of weaving 3. Cloth in Cultures â Non-Wovens: history, technology, range of formation and use including knits, felt, lace, and non-wovens for medical and industrial use 4. Color: dyeing, dyes and the application of color to fibers and fabrics, printing and resist techniques 5. Embellishment: finishing, surface design, embroidery, subtraction, and new technology applications informing the design, aesthetics and qualities of textile substrates 6. Trade and Industry: global circulation of local manufacture, and the migration and consumption of textile products, both historically and contemporaneously 7. Function and the Everyday: textiles in the spheres of domesticity and duty 8. Politics and Power: textiles as global signifiers of status, wealth, national identity, ideology, and global influence 9. Sacred and Ceremonial: the role and meaning of textiles in world ritual, religions, ceremonies and celebrations 10. Textile Futures: textile environmental impacts and proposals for new ecologies of textile production, consumption and disposal, textiles and health. If I weren't already working on the Non-Wovens volume, I'd love to contribute to Function and the Everyday, which sounds ripe for some lace articles. However there is still room for discussion and teasing out where specific techniques should land, e.g. the precise division between embroidery and needle lace, for example. But also, the editors know that not everything is clear-cut, so there will inevitably be some overlap and that's okay too! I'm really excited by the enthusiasm about this project already. Just imagine, a textile encyclopedia that doesn't skimp on lace! We are shaping the future of what textile and history students will learn. Best, Elena - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: Re[2]: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia
Am I misreading the announcement on The Textile Society of America website? It would seem that the architecture of the Encyclopedia has already been established and will consist of 10 volumes. Rather than discussing whether bobbin lace should be added into the already chock full volume about woven textiles, wouldn't it be a better use of our time, after writing erudite articles about every form of lace, to try to insert lace into the other volumes. I know that someone could write something about lace in Trade and Industry. Who wants to take Function and the Everyday? Textile Futures seems ripe with possibilities, although I am not signing up for Sacred and Ceremonial. Politics and Power, am I hearing Lace Wars? Raw materials should be a shoo in, ie. Flax in Flanders. Devon > - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: Re[2]: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia
How about Volume 1 and Volume 2? On Tue, 20 Oct 2020 at 16:34, Sue Babbs wrote: > Maybe the problem comes in titling the Volumes "Woven" and "Non-woven" > . Just a thought > > - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia
Bravo! I will look forward to seeing a textile book where lace is more than just an “also ran.” Liz > On Oct 20, 2020, at 11:30 AM, Elena Kanagy-Loux > wrote: > > . . . my main emphasis was on wanting the lace section to be broad and > fleshed out the way it deserves to be. So often lace is just a footnote in > textile history books and that is so frustrating when it's such a massive > topic! - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia
No worries, I get enthusiastic too and I realize tone can be difficult to interpret in email. :) There is still a lot of conversation going on with the editors determining where to put different textiles because they're so hard to categorize. As one of three volume editors for this particular volume my role is really to field experts such as yourselves to flesh out these ideas â so I'm grateful for the insights! When I submitted the proposal to work on the project my main emphasis was on wanting the lace section to be broad and fleshed out the way it deserves to be. So often lace is just a footnote in textile history books and that is so frustrating when it's such a massive topic! So the more contributors we have in lace, the better. Best, Elena - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re[2]: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia
Maybe the problem comes in titling the Volumes "Woven" and "Non-woven" . Just a thought Sue suebabbs...@gmail.com - - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia
That does clarify! Thanks Elena. I think I got muddled between the historical points and the structural points. I hope I didn't sound grumpy -- I'm just rather fascinated by the equivalence of the structure and I get overly enthusiastic... :-) Nancy On Tue, Oct 20, 2020 at 11:03 AM Elena Kanagy-Loux wrote: > To clarify, I don't disagree with anyone here ... > > - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia
To clarify, I don't disagree with anyone here but I was attempting to answer the question of why bobbin lace was included in the Non-Wovens Volume. Apologies if it came off poorly. There are definitely many textiles that will be difficult to categorize, and having a in-depth examination of the structure of bobbin lace would be a great benefit to the project. Thank you again for the thought-provoking conversation! Best, Elena > - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia
Thank you Nancy, I think conversations like these are fascinating and one of the reasons why I enjoy Arachne so much! It's definitely difficult to draw sharp divisions in a field with so much nuance. Contributions from all perspectives are welcome and I look forward to reading them! Best, Elena > - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia
Yes, you are absolutely right, the evidence is good that bobbin lace developed from braiding -- but braiding is also weaving in which a warp thread becomes a weft thread at the edge at each pass. See the very first illustration in the Wikipedia article https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Braid_group. This is also recognized by some textile experts; for example see Landi's The Textile Conservator's Manual in which she says explicitly that bobbin lace is weaving. I wasn't saying anything about the historical development of bobbin lace. I was describing very specifically the structure and mechanism of bobbin lace, which is weaving with an unattached warp. And of course linen stitch or cloth stitch is even closer to fixed-warp weaving in structure since it is just plain tabby (with two warp threads running simultaneously). I think the history of various technologies has shown that we can get to techniques that are structurally the same via different historical routes. I'm sure the history will be covered in depth, but I believe that understanding the fundamental structure is also important, whatever the history of developing it! Actually I do agree that it makes most sense from a usefulness standpoint to keep all the lace together. Bobbin lace being a form of weaving is just one of those technical anomalies that make the world such a complicated place. Nancy On Tue, Oct 20, 2020 at 9:56 AM Elena Kanagy-Loux wrote: > > I think experts in early bobbin lace like Gil Dye can speak to this more > than I can, but evidence points to bobbin lace developing from braiding > techniques, not weaving. > ... > - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia
Oh my, bobbin lace is definitely a woven fabric. The passives are warp, the weavers/workers are weft :) Consider BL an off-loom technique. Braids are woven also. On Tue, Oct 20, 2020 at 7:11 AM Elena Kanagy-Loux wrote: > Hi All, > > with one set of elements. > Tally stitches come closest to a weaving technique with one worker bobbin > traveling through the passives, but you are still starting with a single > set of elements or bobbins. > > I see your point, however, and obviously this is complicated as there are > endless varieties of textile techniques out there, but distinctions had to > be drawn somewhere and I think it makes more sense to keep bobbin lace with > all the other lace techniques I mentioned in the non-woven volume rather > than split them up. > > Best, > Elena > > - > To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: > unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to > arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: > http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/ > -- Sent from my iPod - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia
Hi All, I think experts in early bobbin lace like Gil Dye can speak to this more than I can, but evidence points to bobbin lace developing from braiding techniques, not weaving. Textile historians generally rely on "The Primary Structures of Fabrics" by Irene Emery to draw such distinctions, wherein wovens are classified as being constructed of two distinct sets of elements (a minimum of one warp and one weft), and bobbin lace is constructed with one set of elements. Tally stitches come closest to a weaving technique with one worker bobbin traveling through the passives, but you are still starting with a single set of elements or bobbins. I see your point, however, and obviously this is complicated as there are endless varieties of textile techniques out there, but distinctions had to be drawn somewhere and I think it makes more sense to keep bobbin lace with all the other lace techniques I mentioned in the non-woven volume rather than split them up. Best, Elena - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia
Good Liz! That bothered me too. Bobbin lace IS weaving in which the warp is free at one end and threads can change function from warp to weft or reverse. But it is topologically exactly weaving -- no knots. And even the most complicated stitches boil down to the over/under relationship of the threads in weaving. I'm submitting a proposal for a contribution explaining this in detail, but it would definitely be odd being in the "non-woven" volume! Nancy Nancy A Neff Ashford, CT, USA On Mon, Oct 19, 2020, 15:44 Lbuyred wrote: > Just wondering. Why is bobbin lace considered to be ânon-wovenâ? > Liz Redford, Raleigh NC > - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
Re: [lace] Textile Encyclopedia
Just wondering. Why is bobbin lace considered to be “non-woven”? Liz Redford, Raleigh NC > On Oct 19, 2020, at 2:28 PM, Elena Kanagy-Loux > I'm pleased to announce that I will be one of three Volume > Editors working on the Non-Woven Textiles Volume of the Encyclopedia, which > will of course include lace. > > - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
[lace] Textile Encyclopedia
Dear Arachnids, By now I am sure many of you have seen the call for contributors that has been circulating for the upcoming Bloomsbury Encyclopedia of World Textiles. I'm pleased to announce that I will be one of three Volume Editors working on the Non-Woven Textiles Volume of the Encyclopedia, which will of course include lace. Although we have had a couple of proposals to write about lace, including bobbin lace and netting, I am reaching out to you to see if there is interest in contributing to a broader variety of lace topics. Of particular interest are specialists in crochet, hairpin lace, tatting, sprang, loop braiding, nalbinding, teneriffe/sol lace and other regional varieties of needle lace, and any other lace-related regional specialties. I'm attaching a document with all of the information on submitting a proposal below. Thank you very much! Best Wishes, Elena [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf which had a name of BEWT contributor call (1).pdf] - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachne.modera...@gmail.com. Photo site: http://www.flickr.com/photos/lacemaker/sets/
