>>Did you try the ctrl-break reset?
>If so, I would first try to read the ROM externally to make sure it's not
>corrupted, >then leave only 8K of known good RAM, and if IO/M is still stuck,
>that means the >80C85 is faulty.
Thanks Frank. I had tried removing the two option RAMs and had the same
There is at least a M100 and a T102 battery cover on thingiverse:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:955567
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:29533
And if you want a better quality print you can download the .stl file and
upload it to Shapeways.
Shapeways costs more, but they offer some higher
Answered in line below, thanks for your replay. - Jeff
Ju>>st a couple of quick things:
1. Have you tried a cold boot to clear out any bad data in the memory?
Just tried, not change.
2. Is the LCD contrast adjustment working?
Yes
3. If
4. You could also check the Electrolytic Cap on the reset line it may of
leaked too which could impact the reset timing.
C90 is the only electrolytic that seems to be part of the reset
circuitry. I have not changed it and it is of the same manufacture as the other
ones that
That would be awesome. Thank you.
I don't have a 3d printer.
Simon
On Sat, Apr 28, 2018, at 4:20 PM, Gregory McGill wrote:
> I can print some and put them in my store at arcadeshopper.com
>
> as for the corrosion use vinegar to neutralize the acid and a strong
> brush like a toothbrush to
Thanks very much for the info.
Simon
On Sat, Apr 28, 2018, at 12:05 PM, Kurt McCullum wrote:
> the battery cover on the model 100 almost always breaks. There
> was talk of 3D printing new ones but I don't know where that
> project is at.> The NiCd should be replaced. You will need to take the
Hello,
I got a Model 100 a while ago and just got it out to do some serious
troubleshooting. After reading what I could find online I removed the NiCad
battery (bad) and replaced C82, C85, C49-50-54-55 as they had all started to
leak. The extent of the leakage was small and no visible damage
On Sun, Apr 29, 2018 at 4:19 PM, Jeffrey Birt wrote:
> Hello,
>
>
>
> I got a Model 100 a while ago and just got it out to do some serious
> troubleshooting. After reading what I could find online I removed the NiCad
> battery (bad) and replaced C82, C85, C49-50-54-55 as
On Mon, 30 Apr 2018 09:05:18 +0930, Daryl Tester wrote:
Oh, it's April 30th. I made myself sad. :-(
A moment to reflect that Rick is still missed ...
--
Regards,
Daryl Tester
Handcrafted Computers Pty. Ltd.
I have now managed to install EagleCAD 6.6 and load the original Rex.brd in
that, then re-save, to make an EagleCAD 6.x xml format .brd file, which is
then able to be imported into KiCAD 4.0.7 pcbnew, then saved again finally
as a KiCAD 4.0.7 .kicad_pcb file. I then edited the edge cut lines to
Hi
Welcome to the Model T world.
Just a couple of quick things:
1. Have you tried a cold boot to clear out any bad data in the memory?
2. Is the LCD contrast adjustment working?
3. If the LCD is going dark it usually means the processor has reset it, if it
did not there would be garbage
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