In the past I rewired a Volvo diesel ( 1983) by using a Telemechanique
pushbutton switch with a 12 volt bulb. The switch had two
circuits. I wired one directly to the bulb and battery the other went
to activate the relay which activated the glow plugs. I used 18 guage
wire to the relay. The l
The 350 SDL does have a low level oil indicator. The switch is located
on the left side of the motor below the IP. When the motor is one liter
low the light will go one ( if the bulb is ok).
Constantine
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The MB manual suggests that you decompress the spring and illustrates
the process.
Constantine
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In the EPC you will find the Steering Knuckle in group 33, front axle.
It is item 5. The MB part number is A 116 330 4120.
Constantine
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Actually I do have the Klann tool. I also have the CD with the details
and some photographs. I only wanted the photographs in case I missed
something. Photographs might be helpful.
Does anyone know how to check the steering knuckle for conformity? The
manual simply states if in doubt throw
Does anyone have any photographs showing the Klann spring removal tool
( Kl 0021)
being used on the front springs of the w 126?
Constantine
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Sorry for the repost. I was hoping that someone photographed the process.
Regards,
Constantine
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Does anyone have any photographs showing the Klann spring removal tool
( Kl 0021)
being used on the front springs of the w 126?
Constantine
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The following is a response regarding my request to evaluate the shocks
illustrated on my website:
www.scaffolding.com/mb/100 0076
Hello Constantine:
The picture of the right front shock does appear to be a Bilstein,
however I cannot tell from the left front photo if it is also a
Bilstein. Th
Thanks Craig and Wilton.
I contacted Bilstein and they suggest considering the Heavy Duty version
of these shocks. They are physically identical, the HD is a bit more
stiff ( the internal valves don't allow the fluid to pass as fast) and
claim that the cornering is better.
I am still on the a
Which shock would be recommended for the 350 sdl?
I have recently posted some more photographs of the suspension system of
the 350 sdl for common use.
Go to: www.scaffolding.com/mb then find # 100 0074, 100 0075, 100
0083 and 100 0086.
Aparantly my name has been deleted from the list, y
Does anyone have an extra tire alignment bolt for sale?
Constantine
I recall the instructions indicating that the car must be driven for 20
minutes. That's the way I do it. It doesn't have to be driven
again for 20 minutes after you start adding the fluid. Just keep it running.
Constantine
Wilton,
I believe you'll find the procedure in the manual. You run the car for
about 20 minutes and then while the car is in park
and still running, check the transmission level. Add very little at a
time and run the transmission through all the positions
(shifting). Keep adding very little
jwreams:
Thanks for the details.
Constantine
I am planning on replacing the various bushings, ball joints and upper
control arms (with ball joints attached) on the 350 sdl.
I guess you'd call it a front suspension overhaul. Does anyone have this
procedure? Has anyone photographed the work? If so please advise. I
have some information fo
At about 40mph I get a low frequency rattle up front. What are the
candidates? I changed the steering shock absorber some
time ago.
Regards,
Constantine
Does anyone know what the maximum allowable out of round dimension is
for the alternator, water pump or power steering pump?
I am presently getting .2mm on the water pump, .1 for the power steering
pump and .1 for the alternator.
I am trying to eliminate the vibration on the serpentine belt tens
I have presented this issue on several lists and have received a lot of
different point of view, all which are valuable.
The issue is the failure of the serpentine belt tensioner.
Several individuals have indicated that they have encountered failures
around 20,000 with no other cause.
Others
I am unable to find the sealant which is suggested by the water pump
manufacturer ( Meyle). Any suggestions?
Also what are the torque values for the bolts?
Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Constantine
There are allen wrenches with 3/8 drives and also 1/2" drives
available. They are made straight and also with a ball head, the later
for angle applications.
Socket head bolts are a lot easier to access and install. A good set of
these tools will make things a lot easier.
Constantine
Does anyone know what the tolerance is for the inline pulleys on models
with the serpentine belt.?
If the alternator is 1 mm out of line, how can it be best be brought
inline again?
Constantine
Loren,
I partly rebuilt mine, which is a two stage unit (steering and
hydraulic blocking of the differential) for the 350 SDL.
You can replace all of the seals yourself, but be very careful when
removing the body. The vanes are loose and must be
kept in place. It is a very tricky operation.
Followup:
Along Dave's pattern of thought, you could use Metalbestos flues from
the basement through the
living room floor and then use offsets to connect with the existing
chimney. After that you can enclose the new pipes with a small
partition.The insulated pipe can be placed within 2"
The all fuel flues from metalbestos are quite good. Go to
www.selkirkinc.com. They are double wall stainless steel and come in
various diameters from 5" to 14" and in lengths from 6" to 48".
A cleanout tee is recommended. Get the Platinum series, ultra temp
which goes up to 2100 degrees Fahren
visit:http://www.smart.com/-snm-0155318764-1153205674-007006-010625-1156703095-enm-is-bin/INTERSHOP.enfinity/WFS/mpc-lu-content-Site/de_LU/-/-/SVCPresentationPipeline-Start;sid=HP1hXZtVO-NhXd-k_4rpVRlfgsZpugVuFBq11osTX-lgMg==?Page=issite%3a%2f%2fsmart-Site%2fsmart%2ecom%2fRootFolder%2fsmar
You might wish to examine the motor. If the motor is drawing too many
amps, you may have a motor problem and not a wiring
problem. The bearing in the shaft may be worn and could be creating
a lot of friction. It would be a good investment to
change the motor. Incidentally, the motor is av
The lock pin must be purchased from MB. I see about 1 hr of work
maximum ( if you have shop facilities). Two hours if
you don't have any welding equipment and have to pay someone to weld the
plates on the end. I'll photograph it when I
make it.
Incidentally, has anyone translated the toe in
I phoned Beissbarth ( the manufacturer of the spreader bar) and learned
that their price is appx. $ 199 for the spreader bar.
It has an MB number of 900 589 012700.
This may be a rather simple item to make for a fraction of the cost. I
am sure that the Beisbarth spreader has a built in
torque
Ok here.
Constantine
Yes. It will be a more pleasant experience. See
www.scaffolding.com/mb. There are plenty of photos of the
603970 motor - the idea is the same. The motor will actually sit on the
oil pan with no problem. Extra blocks keep
things safe.
Regards,
Constantine
One option is to get a die grinder and smooth out the sharp edges and
live with what you have ( I chose that option).
Of course the downside is that you have to slide the male clip up each
time you get into the car.
Constantine
Just a note for glow plug removal. You will save yourself a lot of
grief if you remove the intake manifold.
Constantine
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On the 350 sdl, the oil filter housing has a large o ring. This is
changed with every oil change.
The new cross section (diameter) is 4 mm. This changes after 2,000
miles and becomes 3.5mm
Problem: the last few o rings leak. The nuts are torqued to 23nm
each. No change in the quality
of oil
The following was sent to me by a former classmate, Dan Egan.
It is certainly very useful.
Some Good things to think about in our new and wondrous world!
Subject: Attorney's advice
ATTORNEY'S ADVICE-NO CHARGE
A corporate attorney sent the following out to the employees in his company.
Tom:
You mentioned that the MB tech manuals are on line. Are you refering to
the mb service which charges for access?
Constantine
Dave,
Thanks for the hint regarding the sunroof tools. I'm planing on having
the car painted. Some months ago I posted the status of my 350SDL
after an encounter with a discharge of sulfur dioxide. The refinery
actually paid in full. Any hints on getting a good paint job will be
apprecia
Do you need the special tool ( illustrated) to perform the job?
Constantine
Just a further note on the subject of fluids. The Mercedes hydraulic
oil does have an industrial equivalent which is used by the
rebuilders. However, it is only available in 5 gallon containers and is
a lot cheaper than the mb package. However, if you
only need a few quarts, consider the spac
Jim:
Plain text posted. Would you consider word perfect? ( My preference).
Constantine
Does anyone have any experience with Star Motors in Endicott, NY? I am
planning on sending them
part of a power steering pump and have them install a seal.
Constantine
I have a Vickers 266 tandem pump which has developed a leak in the
front seal. Seals are underway.
Has anyone removed the front shaft/pulley ? If so what tools if any did
you use. I have taken it apart once,
without removing the shaft/pulley so I know that it is a very delicate
operation. The
For those of you who wish to add to your collection of photographs, I
have two illustrating the air compressor
with clutch removed and the new clutch with parts. Just make an
additional note, there are two spacer washers
that go into the very back of the clutch piece. They are very easy to
o
Update on the removal an replacement of the a/c clutch on the 350 sdl.
On this model you do not need a puller. You do need a large monkey
wrench with some
copper on each jaw ( to protect the pulley). You can then hold the
pulley with the wrench
while you remove the nut with a box wrench.
Y
At this point I am in the process of installing the magnet and could use
some input. I am having trouble installing
the snap ring. If anyone has done this work, what size snap ring pliers
did you use or what kind of tool did you use
to install the snap ring?
Constantine
Thanks all for your imput.
If time permits I'll photograph the process and post it, together with
the tools.
Regards,
Constantine
Has anyone removed and replaced the a/c clutch? If so,
do any of the MB procedures apply (CD).? If not
any good pitfalls?
Thanks,
Constantine
Sorry, I tried to cancel the previous post.
Regarding the bearing on the compressor clutch, does anyone have a
source for such?
I checked the vulcanized rubber and it appear rather hard. Would this
indicate that the clutch should be replaced ? ( My feeling)
If so I have two other options (1
Regarding the bearing on the compressor clutch, does anyone have a
source for such?
I checked the vulcanized rubber and it appear rather hard. Would this
indicate that the clutch should be replaced ? ( My feeling)
If so I have two other options (1) purchase a rebuilt clutch from MB at
$ 12
Thanks Peter and Jim.
What is the life cycle of such a clutch? Rubber tends to deteriorate
after 10 years or so, would it make sense just to
go for a new clutch?
Constantine
Marshall and Jim made suggestions regarding the possible parts which
could be creating the noisy condition and the
jittering shock absorber.
I disengaged the belt and found that all of the pulleys were in
reasonable condition, except one. It appears that
the pulley (clutch) on the AC has a b
There is a simple way to identify a motor which has been rebuilt by
Mercedes. The plate
on the motor should indicate in German- Austauschmotor (or something
like that). You can
see the plate location by going to my website-and viewing the crate
motor. The plate is on the
rear of the motor, o
The 350SDL is worth the the $ 5,600, for the chassis alone. You must
count on replacing the motor- it will fail. The
motor should be purchased as a rebuilt unit from Mercedes, with a 50,000
mile guarantee or 4 years. Do not consider
any other options. To do this you must be prepared to per
Omar,
The sound is a low frequency murmur and can be heard at low 800 - 1500 rpm.
In my case, I believe that Jim and Marshall identified the problem areas.
Constantine
Thanks Jim and Marshall.
I was not really thinking of checking any of the new parts ( this is a
new motor with only 10,000 miles on it). However,
weird things do happen. I'll let you know latter this week.
Sorry for the spelling error.
Regards,
Constantine
I have a wierd noise in the of the motor, it appears to be comming from
the belt tensioner ( not the chain tensioner).
I changed the fan and clutch, the tensioner pulley, and the shock
absorber. The shock absorber is constantly in motion
an becomes very hot, the new one diminished the noise, b
Re: 350SDL
Are there different brands of chain tensioners? If so which should be
purchased?
Regards,
Constantine
I am getting a lot of noise from the fan area. The fan spins freely
when the motor is not running (which I believe it did not do
earlier). It also rotates when the motor is running. The fan is
plastic and is not coming in contact with the shrouding.
What needs to be replaced?
Thanks for y
First, let me say that Marshall is quite accurate in his views. I have
a 350SDL which I purchased with full knowledge that
it would self destruct, which it did.
I am also very happy with this car. I did plan and ultimatle did
install a MB rebuilt motor ( in house). Y;ou can see it
at www.sc
For those who believe in Murphy's law.. here are some photographs of my
recent encounter with a discharge of sulfuric dioxide
(which became sulfuric acid when it encountered the rain). On Saturday
night I was driving past a local refinery when I smelled
sulfuric acid and thought nothing of it, a
Does anyone have a good source for Garrett parts?
Constantine
..indicates that ( 1) you may have one or more glow plugs which are
defective, (2) harness may be defective (3)
glow plug relay (transformer) may be defective. All of these issues are
addressed in the CD.
I'd check the resistance of each glow plug, which should be around 8-11
ohms. Above
Does anyone have a spare collar nut for the glow plug? Or, can anyone
provide me with the MB part number for it?
The glow plug has a 6mm threaded stem and the nut is 6mm x 10mm accross
flats.
Thanks in adavance
Constantine
As many have pointed out, one possibility is the oil cooler line. The
passengers side line, at the connection point with the oil cooler
should be examined. The hose, if not properly aligned, has a lot of
stress on it at this point and will eventually leak. If you install
new hoses on both side
In May 2004, I purchased a 603.971 ( a 603.970 rebuilt) engine from
Mercedes at a cost of $ 5,745 delivered to
my warehouse. Part No. 603-010 -30-02-88
It works very well, the oil consumption is now 1 liter in 4,200 miles
(thats when the low light goes on-so I fill it with
one liter which br
Telemecanique makes it. ( check their web site). They can vary in price
depending upon the source.
The problem is you need proper space and housing.
Constantine
n case you want to get a free copy..
http://www.slickdeals.net/?pno=6443&lno=1&afsrc=1
"For one day only, you can get an ad-free version of Opera. Simply
e-mail [EMAIL PROTECTED] to obtain a registration code. This offer is
valid from 12 a.m. Tuesday, August 30 to 12 a.m. Wednesday
MB made that change to an external 30A fuse in the '91 350 SDL, as many
of you pointed it out to me.
I am trying to identify the two clips which hold the back of of the
bottom of the blower motor housing. The clips
are used to retain the back and are used in lieu of screws (to difficult
to u
The 350 SDL is a highly serviceable car. If the car has its original
motor then you absolutely must factor in the cost of
a new motor. Mercedes has solved the problems- but won't say how. It
would be unwise to purchase anything but
a rebuilt unit from MB- they have a plant in Berlin, where they
On August 4, 2005, I ordered a 30# cylinder of R-12 from Donald Knieriem
in Murray, KY.
Tel. 270 293 9696.
I prepaid him $ 435., as agreed- with my check. Today I got the
material in excellent condition .
Regards,
Constantine
Dave
Check with Parker Hannifin- the EO series. A local hydraulic house
(Parker Distributor) may have one.
Constantine
Tom,
I just learned about it after making a search: Workshop Information System.
Constantine
Several comments were made regarding the WIS. Does a listmember have
this available for sale? If so please contact
me offlist.
Constantine
For those of you with a 350 SDL or other models using the same blower
motor, it is in fact a Bosch
0 130 111 017 and is made in Germany. A new unit has a resistance of
2.3 ohms.
I'd appreciate any input regarding other units. Which models take the
0 130 111 001? What
is their resistance
Joe,
Does Bosch have a catalog of parts for the MB? If so, where is it
available?
Constantine
Joe,
Thank for your response. I contacted Bosch and learned that they have
both motors available
through their distributors. The two are 0130 111 017 and 0130 111
001 these are
stand alone units and are not to be used interchangeably.. according to
the Bosch rep.
My observation is that th
I just received a new Bosch motor for the blower housing. For some
reason it is 2 mm shorter than the original Bosch.
With this version you can not install the original lock washer, as when
the shaft protruded 2mm out of the fan.
Did Bosch find that the lock washer was unnecessary and shortened
I just ordered a 30# cylinder from Donald Knieriem in Hardin KT. Tel.
270 354 8710. Cost $ 395 plus $ 40 shipping.
He has a few left. They are said to be virgin R-12, not reprocessed.
Details off line.
Constantine
This file contains a drawing.
blower motor.doc
Description: MS-Word document
Here is an update for your files on the blower motor
Constantine
blower motor.doc
Description: MS-Word document
This is an update on an effective method to remove the blower motor from
the fan.
Tools:
One 8" or larger steel C clamp
One light copper hammer
One 6 x 10 mm socket head screw
A bit of Kroil
Four 2" x 4" x 8" wood blocks
Method:
Soak the fan end of the motor spindle with Kroil. I waited o
After removing the blower assembly I tried to remove the motor from the
fan. I used the modified Trampas method-
a hammer and drift pin (my air hammer is too big), and also have soaked
the motor shaft in Kroil. Negative results.
I have several pullers, but am afraid of damaging the plastic.
My
Thanks Jim and Trampas for your insight..
Does anyone have a good source for R12? The best I've been able to get
is Refron 800 573 3766 at $420.for
a 30# cylinder. I got certified a year ago to solve this problem.
Anyone had either positive or negative experiences
with this firm?
Constantin
A few weeks ago the fuse blew for the blower motor. Thanks to all for
identifying the problem and and the location.
The fuse actually appeared to be ok but in fact had broken at the edge.
The reason for this break appears to to be a defective blower motor. In
the high speed mode it sometimes
Marshall (and others)
The next morning, when I started the blower motor functioned for about 5
minutes then became inactive for the rest of the day.
Is the controler in a two part aluminum housing under the driver's side
near the cruise control module? Do you know what
ohms the blower motor s
For you reference MB now charges $ 16.- $20. per gallon for their
antifreeze. A local parts house charges
$10 for the Zerex- G 05. I just bought four gallons for stock @ $10.
Constantine
Thanks Trampas, Marshall and Ken.
Constantine
Suddenly, without any noise or warning the blower stopped running. The
blower does not function in heat, defrost or A/C mode.
I have not checked any fuse yet. Is there a dedicated fuse for the
blower anywhere, besides the fuse box? The illustrations on the CD are
not very clear regarding loca
The 350 SDL also uses the two circuit hydraulic pump (power steering)
in models which use hydraulic blocking of the
differential. The two circuit pump is easy to identify: it has a high
pressure pump and a low pressure pump built together.
MB has kits- seal kits- available. There may a le
90 matches
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