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Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
Why? I have a 76 300D and highly recommend one.
Randy
-Original Message-
Now, with all of this talk about 115 bodies, I kind of miss my 220D 240Ds.
They were great cars. Someone please stop me before I buy another
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
Tom Hargrave wrote:
Now, with all of this talk about 115 bodies, I kind of miss my 220D 240Ds.
They were great cars. Someone please stop me before I buy another
Til you have to replace the heater blower motor!
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh
I had the radiator for the 450SLC rodded just a few months ago at a
local Ma Pa shop.
On 11/6/06, Tyler Backman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I can't seem to find a place that will do this anymore. All of the
radiator shops just replace the radiator. I have the old style brass
radiators on all four
steering, and four on the floor. 0-60 in 10 minutes.
I find our 200D quite torquey, and usually leave it in fourth
gear for most driving, once I'm up to speed. It'll even hit
about 65 by the end of the onramp, if I'm alone. The 240D auto
took 'til almost the next exit to get up to speed.
I
Nov 2006 14:45:38 -0800
From: Tyler Backman [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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I am
Curt:
It is so unlikely that you will be able to clean out that rad that you
would be better off catching meteors
Check for a cold spot in front of the fan -- if there is one, dump the
rad.
Sadly, the stuff that collects is only dissolved by acids that will
also eat the aluminum, and
it's old enough to be president. almost. That, and that whole Born in the
US thing.
On 11/5/06, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Curt:
It is so unlikely that you will be able to clean out that rad that you
would be better off catching meteors
Check for a cold spot in front of
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Curt,
You might be right. I can run mine full throttle up hills if I turn
both heater cores and the blower fan on full blast, so I probably
have a clogged radiator. I've never had any luck with radiator flush,
and I have no chance of affording
I think Tyler is driving a 115 chassis 240D - it should have the
copper radiator like the 220D (?). If so, take it to a radiator shop
for rodding, cleaning, and flow testing.
Mercedes recommends using a citric acid flush - it's covered in the
service manual. There was recent thread on the
If the engine is cared for and the transmission is good, you can cruise
all day at 74 mph. I can get Gump to top speed of 87 mph for a few
miles, but back down since she does not like to go that fast.
The cars are slow to get to top speed but will hold it as well as any
other diesel, expect
Use citric acid, that will take out anything stronger acids will.
Chances are, unless the core is badly corroded, your local radiator
shop will be able to unsolder the tanks and rod out the core, then
solder the tanks back on.
Make SURE they either seal or remove the oil cooler while doing
On Sun, 5 Nov 2006 20:50:37 -0800 Redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
The cars are slow to get to top speed but will hold it as well as any
other diesel, expect those new turbo or CDI things. Gump will climb a
hill in second or third and gain speed. Slowly, but she will gain at
WOT. If
The blower is a DIY, but get a friend or two for dash install and
removal. You will need that many hands to man handle it out. I think
the windscreen got installed after the dash. If you can have friends
hitting all the parts, you could do it in a few hours. Alone it is 10
hours shop time.
YES
to Everything
Best place to get to know the car is to putter around town for a day
and then get out on the highway and go for 80 miles to open her up.
They drive like old cars or like cars used to long ago.
On Nov 5, 2006, at 7:03 AM, Peter Frederick wrote:
They feel a bit breathless
Jim, I thought the Frankenheap had a 616 head. Makes it a 240D then?
On Nov 5, 2006, at 8:39 AM, Jim Cathey wrote:
Beside all the normal slow to accelerate stuff, what is the general
consensus of those who have
driven and owned 115 chassis 220Ds as HIGHWAY cars.
I think they'd make a real
Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 10:44 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
What are the bad actors on the car please.
Bad stuff? Cancerous rust, it's prone to rusting due to many
crevices and (I believe) no galvanizing. Changing the oil
is messy
@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
Jim,
Since you mentioned the oil filter - there is one other item you need
to
watch for.
There should be a plastic assembly inside the filter housing along
with
the
main replaceable filter. The assembly
In a message dated 11/5/2006 7:38:54 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Beside all the normal slow to accelerate stuff, what is the general
concessis of those who have
driven and owned 115 chassis 220Ds as HIGHWAY cars. I have a real nice one
I have come
across
Jim, I thought the Frankenheap had a 616 head. Makes it a 240D then?
It may. But it still is a 2l motor, not a 2.4, it's just got
a little better breathing through slightly larger valves. Or
so I understand.
-- Jim
The displacement difference between the 2.2L and 2.4L is in the
cylinder bore (the 2.4 is slightly larger). There are other
differences as well -- I believe the IP is lubed by engine oil as in
the 617, and that the head is slightly different.
Peter
Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 12:17 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
The displacement difference between the 2.2L and 2.4L is in the
cylinder bore (the 2.4 is slightly larger). There are other
differences as well -- I believe the IP is lubed
Why would you spend 10-12 hours to install a used part? Wouldn't it make
more sense to install a tested but new part? How pissed would you bee two
weeks later when you have to do it again. Even if the PnP guy gave you a
refund.
Chris Kueny ([EMAIL PROTECTED])
78 Chevy Custom deluxe
'85
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
Why would you spend 10-12 hours to install a used part? Wouldn't it make
more sense to install a tested but new part? How pissed would you bee two
weeks later when you have to do it again. Even if the PnP guy gave you a
refund.
Chris
The blower motors run a long time before they fail...
Especially if, knowing the car's weakness, you turn them off as soon
as ram air can take over. They can also, albeit with difficulty, be
lubricated from the air intake side.
-- Jim
Not the 2.4 in the 115, the ip still have to be filled with the oil.
Only ones that were lubed from the engine was the 115 300D and later
diesels.
Peter Frederick wrote:
The displacement difference between the 2.2L and 2.4L is in the
cylinder bore (the 2.4 is slightly larger). There are
I can't seem to find a place that will do this anymore. All of the
radiator shops just replace the radiator. I have the old style brass
radiators on all four of my vehicles (74 mercedes, 84 volvo, 87
volvo, and 89 honda).
On Nov 5, 2006, at 8:44 PM, Peter Frederick wrote:
Use citric
Jim Cathey wrote:
The blower motors run a long time before they fail...
Especially if, knowing the car's weakness, you turn them off as soon
as ram air can take over.
Wow, that brings back memories. I used to do that in my Volvo 240.
That's another car with a hard-to-get-at blower --
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of David Brodbeck
Sent: Monday, November 06, 2006 1:40 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
Jim Cathey wrote:
The blower motors run a long time before they fail...
Especially
Why? I have a 76 300D and highly recommend one.
Randy
-Original Message-
Now, with all of this talk about 115 bodies, I kind of miss my 220D 240Ds.
They were great cars. Someone please stop me before I buy another
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
The blower was fully tested and reconditioned with assistance from BiL.
He also helped with the install. For the $5 it cost for the part, I
saved $395 over retail. Worth the price to me.
On Nov 6, 2006, at 4:33 AM, Chris Kueny wrote:
Why would you spend 10-12 hours to install a used part?
Beside all the normal slow to accelerate stuff, what is the general
concessis of those who have
driven and owned 115 chassis 220Ds as HIGHWAY cars. I have a real nice one
I have come
across well maintained, standard, low rust, relatively low miles all
records ect for low dollars.
What are the
If the blower motor fails, either only drive in good weather or scrap the
car - replacement is a bear. The whole car is built around it. Otherwise,
watch out for cancerous rust (it spreads pretty quickly), and the steering
wheel is a -little- too high to drive with your knees.
Does yours have
- Original Message -
From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 10:01 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
If the blower motor fails, either only drive in good weather or scrap the
car - replacement is a bear
They feel a bit breathless at highway speeds due to the low gearing
(84 mph is the top speed with an auto, you might get a couple more mph
out of a standard).
A long trip on the interstate might be tiring, but they DO go forever
on fuel, usually in the mid 30's on the road. I used to drive
On a blower motor, the book gives a shop time of 20 hours of labor. If you
go through the speaker hole in the dash, -supposedly- this cuts it to 8-10
hours. And you'll mangle your hands. Plan on an entire weekend.
Those silly Germans built the car around the blower motor. They fixed this
in
Beside all the normal slow to accelerate stuff, what is the general
consensus of those who have
driven and owned 115 chassis 220Ds as HIGHWAY cars.
I think they'd make a real nice highway car. A dead blower motor
then makes no difference, because they have a good ram air supply.
Having driven
What are the bad actors on the car please.
Bad stuff? Cancerous rust, it's prone to rusting due to many
crevices and (I believe) no galvanizing. Changing the oil
is messy, it (probably) predates the topsider sucker tube, and
the oil filter is the all-over-your-arm from the bottom type.
And,
:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 10:44 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
What are the bad actors on the car please.
Bad stuff? Cancerous rust, it's prone to rusting due to many
crevices and (I believe) no galvanizing
Scordato
Bellefonte PA
- Original Message -
From: Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 12:05 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
Jim,
Since you mentioned the oil filter - there is one other item you need
speed demond
- Original Message -
From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2006 10:03 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 115 chassis 220D
They feel a bit breathless at highway speeds due to the low gearing
(84 mph is the top
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I am not certain how they differ, but my 1974 240D is an excellent
highway car. Fuel economy is impressive, and it gets up and cruises
all day at 75mph with no problems. It also has very little wind
noise, and feels very stable. When climbing
I loved driving my 220D (1970) on the highway. I think I got around 30
MPG. I think the 115 is a better highway driver than the 123 series -
the 107 shares a lot of the suspension.
I think mine had power steering. The AC was after market, and I
removed it to gain better access to the alternator.
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