When Rusty was still in business and I was rehabbing my $400 '83 240D. I did
all 4 brakes with the absolute cheapest rotors he had. I remember them being
$25 or less each with a weird brand name like "Standard" which was what was
printed on the box.I forget exactly but I think I drove that car
AutohausAZ offers a 4 different brake rotor brands selling from $27.59 to
$61.99 (OEM Mercedes). I would probably settle for ATE at the cheaper end
of the spectrum.
On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 2:41 PM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> I read a pretty good description of t
I read a pretty good description of the relationship btw pad and rotor
somewhere. Basically the pad transfers a certain amt of material to the
rotor when it is hot. If this is not done uniformly, the rotor surface
becomes uneven and causes vibration when brakes are applied. There is also
some chang
All the "bedding in" procedures seem to be a poor mans heat treat to
stabilize the rotor grain structure and keep it from warping.
In the good old days, cast rotors were made from virgin iron ore, rather
than recycled scrap, such as they are now.
Recycled steel in today's foundry mix is a melt of s
Some 116 and 107 rotors with a 116 part number are NLA from Mercedes. Just
got a set of Ate for a car, still available.
Jaime
On Mon, Mar 23, 2020 at 9:31 AM Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> Ritter always said 3-4 stops from 60 to near zero in rapid succession,
> then
Ritter always said 3-4 stops from 60 to near zero in rapid succession, then
continue to drive normally for 10 minutes or so in order to allow everything to
cool off. I’ve used this approach for some years and never had a problem.
However, I use ceramic pads almost exclusively now, so I’m not sur
There used to be a time when a truckload of brake rotors got a special,
increased, price at the scrap yard. That time has passed...
-Curt
On Sunday, March 22, 2020, 9:25:17 PM EDT, David Bruckmann via Mercedes
wrote:
At least for the W115 and W123, Mercedes used to cast the rotors the
There is much tribalism around how to bed in rotors. I've not found any value
in it but I still give it a try occasionally.
My thought is that the first few stops with new pads and rotors should probably
not be panic stops or descents down long grades while holding the car at speed
only with th
Just some more info. My old Indies used the rule of thumb that you replaced
the rotors with every 2nd or 3rd set of pads, depending on the rotor wear.
Never turn the rotors. This worked great on both my 123 and 116.
Best Wishes,
Roger
Roger Hale
Dinnerware Classics, Inc.
Monroe, Ga.
770-267-08
Only thing you need to do is rough up the surface of rotors shipped in
cosmoline after removing the "grease". This prevents the spiral grooves from
turning or the coarse grind from wearing the pads funny initially. No prep
needed for the coated ones, just install and drive.
Light pedal if at
At least for the W115 and W123, Mercedes used to cast the rotors themselves.
Not sure if that's still the case, but there's most DEFINITELY a difference
between brands based on manufacturing methodology.
On Mar 22, 2020, Kaleb Striplin wrote:
>
> I bought some cheap rotors off rockauto a while
> Scott wrote:
> This is interesting. Some say rotors literally warp and others
> say it's a break-in issue. Does anyone really know?
Gotta brake in the breaks right. Actually, "bed" them.
I used to have a lot of trouble with my Suburban. After finding
the info from Carroll Smith I have no
> Kaleb wrote:
> I bought some cheap rotors off rockauto a while back for the 01
> e320. They seem to already be warped as I am already getting
> some pulsation on braking. I just figured a piece of metal is a
> piece of metal as far as rotors go. Perhaps not.
Sounds like the fault of the insta
I have read something about bedding them in. Supposed to make about 10
slow downs but not come to a complete stop so the pad does not sit on
there and imprint material on the rotor. I have actually never followed
this procedure before. I may have to replace these cheap rotors and
actually go
One thing that can cause pedal pulsation is a hard spot in the rotor. Usually
happens when you make a panic stop and then hold the pedal down, there is
enough carbon in the pads and the rotor is hot enough you add some carbon the
the spot under the pads, making it wear less that the rest of th
I call BS on this as well. Along with the “you can’t turn Mercedes rotors”. As
long as the rotor hasn’t exceeded the minimum thickness, there’s no reason why
you can’t take metal off of it.
OE rotors have a little quarter moon sort of notch in them that is the
indicator of minimum thickness. Yo
Well, that would be hard with a new car - I'm calling BS.
You don't turn them because they are too thin.
Put a dial indicator on the rotor and measure to see if it's wobbling or
not.
On Sun, Mar 22, 2020 at 7:34 PM Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> . I seem to recall a
gt; From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
>> Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes
>> Sent: Sunday, March 22, 2020 7:54 PM
>> To: Dan Penoff via Mercedes ;
>> davesl...@okiebenz.com
>> Cc: Kaleb Striplin
>> Subject: [MBZ] Cheap rotors
>>
7:54 PM
> To: Dan Penoff via Mercedes ;
> davesl...@okiebenz.com
> Cc: Kaleb Striplin
> Subject: [MBZ] Cheap rotors
>
> I bought some cheap rotors off rockauto a while back for the 01 e320. They
> seem to already be warped as I am already getting some pulsation on
> braki
I bought some cheap rotors off rockauto a while back for the 01 e320.
They seem to already be warped as I am already getting some pulsation on
braking. I just figured a piece of metal is a piece of metal as far as
rotors go. Perhaps not.
___
http://www.o
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