Yeah, what he said.
--R
On 12/5/11 9:22 PM, Allan Streib wrote:
Hans Neureiterdiese...@gmail.com writes:
And patiencently applied skill.
Remember, soft steel (hex rounds off) and hollow (shears at the weak
pont = end of threads).
If all fails, Easy-Out. No drilling! Tapered seat below.
And
On 05/12/2011 8:22 PM, Allan Streib wrote:
Hans Neureiterdiese...@gmail.com writes:
And patiencently applied skill.
Remember, soft steel (hex rounds off) and hollow (shears at the weak
pont = end of threads).
If all fails, Easy-Out. No drilling! Tapered seat below.
And if you think you're in
I bet the caliper rebuilders love receiving those cores!
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 6, 2011, at 3:08 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:
On 05/12/2011 8:22 PM, Allan Streib wrote:
Hans Neureiterdiese...@gmail.com writes:
And patiencently applied skill.
Remember, soft steel (hex
Probably not all rebuilders. Rebuilder of a set I bought had
apparently drilled out and rethreaded the ports and installed
bigger bleeder valves that could only be loosened/tightened
with a U.S. size wrench. Don't know if the threads were
metric or U.S.
Gerry
From: Dimitri Seretakis
What are the bleeder screws actually made of? Brass? Steel? Do they
so
often get stuck due to galvanic action between dissimilar metals or
simply rusting?
Brake fittings are hollow steel, thus somewhat weak, and they rust.
There's a lot of heat and water down there, not to mention road salt.
And patiencently applied skill.
Remember, soft steel (hex rounds off) and hollow (shears at the weak
pont = end of threads).
If all fails, Easy-Out. No drilling! Tapered seat below.
Brake fittings are hollow steel, thus somewhat weak, and they rust.
There's a lot of heat and water down there,
Hans Neureiter diese...@gmail.com writes:
And patiencently applied skill.
Remember, soft steel (hex rounds off) and hollow (shears at the weak
pont = end of threads).
If all fails, Easy-Out. No drilling! Tapered seat below.
And if you think you're in a fix when the bleeder shears off, just
As Elmer Fudd used to say: Be vewy vewy careful Coat the threads,
but not the tip. Actually, I think Elmer's quote is overdone. Just
be careful to only put it on the threads.
Well, I think you have convinced me! I tremble every time I crack
open a bleeder that looks rusty. I will start
How about just the tip? Sorry, I couldn't help myself:)
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 4, 2011, at 11:38 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
As Elmer Fudd used to say: Be vewy vewy careful Coat the threads, but not
the tip. Actually, I think Elmer's quote is overdone. Just be careful to
If you do just the tip Your Fuzes WILL MELT :-D
On 12/4/2011 11:36 AM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
How about just the tip? Sorry, I couldn't help myself:)
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 4, 2011, at 11:38 AM, Dieselhead126die...@gmail.com wrote:
As Elmer Fudd used to say: Be vewy vewy careful
Tell me about it'
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 4, 2011, at 1:19 PM, Russ Williams rawil...@eatel.net wrote:
If you do just the tip Your Fuzes WILL MELT :-D
On 12/4/2011 11:36 AM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
How about just the tip? Sorry, I couldn't help myself:)
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 4,
What about using pipe-sealing teflon tape on the bleeder threads? That
would not tend to migrate to anywhere else, would it?
Allan
Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com writes:
As Elmer Fudd used to say: Be vewy vewy careful Coat the threads,
but not the tip. Actually, I think Elmer's quote is
Many professionals I know won't use tape anywhere. The little shreds
go everywhere. They cause problems in gas valves, hydraulics etc.
What about using pipe-sealing teflon tape on the bleeder threads? That
would not tend to migrate to anywhere else, would it?
Allan
Dieselhead
I like that idea.
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 4, 2011, at 2:35 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:
What about using pipe-sealing teflon tape on the bleeder threads? That
would not tend to migrate to anywhere else, would it?
Allan
Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com writes:
As Elmer Fudd
Teflon tape should NOT be used in hydraulic systems. The seal effect relys
on the cone shape of the tip and the area it sets in.. NOT the threads.
More importantly, anti-seize compounds use materials that make a barrier
against the thread and the body doing a rust weld and becoming one solid
What are the bleeder screws actually made of? Brass? Steel? Do they so
often get stuck due to galvanic action between dissimilar metals or
simply rusting?
G Mann g2ma...@gmail.com writes:
Teflon tape should NOT be used in hydraulic systems. The seal effect relys
on the cone shape of the tip
They are made of steel but being hollow except for the conical seating surface
at the base, they don't tolerate a lot of torque. They simply shear. This has
happened to be at least three times and is a major pita. The last time it
happened was on my pagoda. I couldn't get a replacement caliper
When bleeding, the fluid is outbound, so no prob. If you are
worrying about the minute contact of fluid with threads at the time
the bleeder is closed, first I think it is inconsequential as the
bleeder cuts off the fluid maybe 1/4 inside before the threads, so
that minuscule potential
Well, I think you have convinced me! I tremble every time I crack open a
bleeder that looks rusty. I will start applying the antiseize from now on.
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 4, 2011, at 12:04 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
When bleeding, the fluid is outbound, so no prob. If you
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