Yes, send me our address.
Michael E. Esh
On Dec 1, 2011, at 10:05 PM, Rick Knoble wrote:
> On Dec 1, 2011, at 8:53 PM, "Mike Esh" wrote:
>
>> Does anyone have a picture example of a broken circuit? Am I just looking
>> for crack in a solder joint?
>
> Here is a pictorial on disassembly fr
Does anyone have a picture example of a broken circuit? Am I just
looking for crack in a solder joint?
Open one up, and examine (in particular) the joints to
the side boards, which are (in contravention to all known
good soldering practice) also the mechanical support of
the side boards. The c
order new pbu if I find nothing new. Does Rusty carry these?
You got a big wallet? There's a reason that we all
either resolder them, or learn to do so. Hey, you've
got five to learn on...
-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to
On Dec 1, 2011, at 8:53 PM, "Mike Esh" wrote:
> Does anyone have a picture example of a broken circuit? Am I just looking
> for crack in a solder joint?
Here is a pictorial on disassembly from Dan. I don't think it shows
specifically cracks, but it was pretty thorough, IIRC. (can't view it on
Does anyone have a picture example of a broken circuit? Am I just looking for
crack in a solder joint?
Michael E. Esh
On Dec 1, 2011, at 9:09 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:
>> I tried five different control units. I cleaned each one with contact
>> cleaner. Could they all be bad?
>
> Absolutely.
broken the same...
>
> -Curt
>
> Date: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 17:50:14 -0500
> From: Mike Esh
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help
> Message-ID: <93499b2d-4baa-47bf-8e14-97aece39f...@me.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain
Here is good conversation about mono valve voltage. It cleared things up me
about reading voltage to the mono valve. Mine appears to be working correctly.
Michael E. Esh
On Dec 1, 2011, at 9:11 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:
>> I hooked a taillight bulb to the leads going to the mono valve and still
I hooked a taillight bulb to the leads going to the mono valve and
still get the same readings I did with the multimeter. I did not get
blinking lights at
Taillight bulb is a bit heavy, a side-marker lamp would be
kinder and gentler.
any settings, solid on, solid off. I hooked up five differ
I tried five different control units. I cleaned each one with contact
cleaner. Could they all be bad?
Absolutely. The units with the little translucent AUTO switch
are EXTREMELY prone to having cracked solder joints. As in: I've
had to fix EVERY one of them in our fleet. Yes, every one.
For
e possible for them all to
be broken the same...
-Curt
Date: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 17:50:14 -0500
From: Mike Esh
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mono valve voltage readings -please help
Message-ID: <93499b2d-4baa-47bf-8e14-97aece39f...@me.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; CHARSET=
I tried five different control units. I cleaned each one with contact cleaner.
Could they all be bad?
Michael E. Esh
On Nov 30, 2011, at 12:36 PM, Rich Thomas
wrote:
> Sounds like the control unit is not controlling. Might want to take it out
> and see if anything on it (like maybe the
Jim,
I hooked a taillight bulb to the leads going to the mono valve and still get
the same readings I did with the multimeter. I did not get blinking lights at
any settings, solid on, solid off. I hooked up five different control boxes
and got the same results.
I am at a loss.
Mike
Michael
On Dec 1, 2011 6:51 AM, "Jim Cathey" wrote:
>>
> slow for the typical (?) dwell meter. I found that a 12V
> test lamp worked perfectly. Just watch it blink on and off.
But a 'scope is so much more fun!
Alex
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts
Do you mean that duty cycle is measured with s stopwatch, not with a
dwell meter?
Neither, I think. It's right at that in-between stage
where a regular meter can't really keep up, yet is too
slow for the typical (?) dwell meter. I found that a 12V
test lamp worked perfectly. Just watch it bli
I believe a dwell meter would give you an average of the duty cycle, so you
would see as it increased or decreased.
Essentially, the signal is a square wave with the time being varied to control
the flow of coolant through the valve.
Dan
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 1, 2011, at 6:50 AM, Mitch H
Jim Cathey wrote:
No voltage == heat, +12V == no heat. PWM (in the seconds timeframe)
for in between.
Do you mean that duty cycle is measured with s stopwatch, not with a dwell
meter?
Mitch.
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.o
...Zero volts when defrost button is pushed.
No voltage == heat, +12V == no heat. PWM (in the seconds timeframe)
for in between. If it's never getting juice, the valve is not your
problem and you need to look at, say, resoldering the control panel.
(Oh, and fuses, temperature feedback plumbing
> Mike Esh wrote:
> Current readings are at Mono valve are as follows:
> 12 volts when system is off.
The monovalve is not controlled with a steady voltage. 12V is
switched on and off rapidly, called pulse width modulation.
That is, the more heat requested, the longer the OFF pulse and
the shor
If you remove the temperature wheel (quite easy) you can inspect for breaks
in the circuitry. Then swap it with a temperature reel from another ACC
module. That worked for me.
On Wed, Nov 30, 2011 at 12:36 PM, Rich Thomas <
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net> wrote:
> Sounds like the control
Sounds like the control unit is not controlling. Might want to take it
out and see if anything on it (like maybe the wheel contacts) is
corroded, broken, fried, worn out, whatever.
--R
On 11/30/11 12:24 PM, Mike Esh wrote:
I am still having trouble regulating heat in my 84 300D. I either ge
I am still having trouble regulating heat in my 84 300D. I either get all heat
or all cold. Cold only coming on when temp wheel is rotated all the way to max
cool.
Current readings are at Mono valve are as follows:
12 volts when system is off.
System on any of the 3 center buttons pushed:
1
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