You're Superman in my book if you have 30 yrs. as a professional mechanic.
On 2/22/06, John Berryman [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On Wednesday, February 22, 2006, at 06:27 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:
No way this is a 30 minute job, even with 2 people.
I'm not Superman or anything
On Feb 23, 2006, at 3:21 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:
You're Superman in my book if you have 30 yrs. as a professional
mechanic.
Aw gee! (blushing)
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
John Berryman wrote:
Its a piece of cake, a couple of bolts and a couple retainers a piece
of wood to hold tailgate up and the right tools. 1/2 hour job. You may
want to have a small picker-upper extendable magnet on hand if your
prone to succumb to the forces of gravity and drop things.
No way this is a 30 minute job, even with 2 people.
On 2/22/06, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
John Berryman wrote:
Its a piece of cake, a couple of bolts and a couple retainers a
piece
of wood to hold tailgate up and the right tools. 1/2 hour job. You may
want to have a
On Wednesday, February 22, 2006, at 02:59 PM, Marshall Booth wrote:
Several people have reported dropping the hatch and breaking the window
($$$)! Several more have rounded off the screw heads! Those have been
the BIG problems.
Marshall
There is something to be said for knowing what
On Wednesday, February 22, 2006, at 06:27 PM, andrew strasfogel wrote:
No way this is a 30 minute job, even with 2 people.
I'm not Superman or anything but I have more than 30 years behind me
as a professional mechanic. Take as long as you want, its your time.
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore
The trick with W123T hatch struts is HEAT on the torx bolts; W124
will probably be similar. The bolt threadlock is heat-sensitive; VERY
hard to remove if cold, but heating it makes the whole thing a lot
easier and avoids stripping the bolt heads.
IIRC, Marshall has weighed in on this topic in
On Thursday, February 16, 2006, at 08:12 PM, David Bruckmann wrote:
The trick with W123T hatch struts is HEAT on the torx bolts; W124
will probably be similar. The bolt threadlock is heat-sensitive; VERY
hard to remove if cold, but heating it makes the whole thing a lot
easier and avoids
John Berryman wrote:
Its somewhat dangerous to use heat in there for the obvious reasons.
What about sticking a soldering iron (a powerful one) inside the bolt
head?
Jim Cathey wrote:
There is a motor that, once the door is more or less closed, pulls
the door in and engages the lock - nice, but up there with 87 zone
climate control, IMO. It does the same when you unlock.
A door motor? In an 87 124? News to me.
The hatch lid of a 124.193 had a
On 2/16/06 3:48 PM, Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Thanks, Andrew. I think I can tackle this one myself without t much
trouble.
Chris
FWIW
When mine were done the indie said that replacing the struts on the 124 was
slightly easier than on the 123.
--
+--
GG
1997
On Thursday, February 16, 2006, at 09:08 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:
John Berryman wrote:
Its somewhat dangerous to use heat in there for the obvious reasons.
What about sticking a soldering iron (a powerful one) inside the bolt
head?
That's a thought. Have you ever tried it?
Johnny
John Berryman wrote:
What about sticking a soldering iron (a powerful one) inside the bolt
head?
That's a thought. Have you ever tried it?
Not on TD struts, never owned a wagon. Have done it to loctited
allen screws.
requires a pretty advanced DIYer
My indy is pretty good about telling me what I can and
can't do myself - he knows the limitations of my
skills - and he recommended against my trying this.
It must sound easier than it is.
Chris
Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Jim Cathey wrote:
On Friday, February 17, 2006, at 01:29 PM, Christopher McCann wrote:
requires a pretty advanced DIYer
My indy is pretty good about telling me what I can and
can't do myself - he knows the limitations of my
skills - and he recommended against my trying this.
It must sound easier than it is.
There is a motor that, once the door is more or less closed, pulls
the door in and engages the lock - nice, but up there with 87 zone
climate control, IMO. It does the same when you unlock.
A door motor? In an 87 124? News to me.
NOW, here's my question, the door doesn't stay
Bad struts. BTDT.
PITA to do, but well worth having an operational door. And, it will last
another 18 years.
___
GG STILL WISH I HAD MY 87 300TD
St. Louis - Cincinnati
1997 SL500
http://homepage.mac.com/deneals/SL500.htm
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL
17 years? Since 1989, our 1983 300TD has needed to have the struts replaced
TWICE and I need to do it again. They seem to last around 5-6 years at
best. It's not that difficult a job but you will need a torx socket wrench
to R/R the bolts that secure the struts to the roof and a long 2X4 to
Yours last less time because of your proximity to the atmospheric pollution
coming out of DC
At 01:32 PM 2/16/2006, you wrote:
17 years? Since 1989, our 1983 300TD has needed to have the struts replaced
TWICE and I need to do it again. They seem to last around 5-6 years at
best. It's not
so you remove the headliner and there they are?
Chris
andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 17 years? Since 1989, our 1983
300TD has needed to have the struts replaced
TWICE and I need to do it again. They seem to last around 5-6 years at
best. It's not that difficult a job but you
Chris,
Once you remove the plastic roof moulding and rear speakers, IIRC, you'll
see that the headliner neatly hangs by a dowel or maybe one on each side.
Just slip it or them off their brackets and the rear 2' approx. of the
headliner drops down. You can then gain access to tackle the front end
Thanks, Andrew. I think I can tackle this one myself without t much trouble.
Chris
andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Chris,
Once you remove the plastic roof moulding and rear speakers, IIRC, you'll
see that the headliner neatly hangs by a dowel or maybe one on each side.
Just
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