Re: [MBZ] Best way to trouble shoot window, 1979 240D

2007-03-26 Thread BillR
Obviously I have been off list for a few days.  I read all the way down to
'Front passenger window' before I realized this wasn't another Windows / Mac
discussion such as was going on when I left..

BillR, Jacksonville and just back from Columbia and Atlanta.
1981 300SD  287k miles, and still getting 28 mpg [at least until I turn on
the AC again] 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 6:46 PM
To: Peter Frederick; Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Best way to trouble shoot window, 1979 240D

Now that weather is getting better time to fix my window that went plop this

winter.  Anyone ever do this repair.  Heck I do not even know what is wrong 
yet.
Window came off track,  I think regulator goes up and down.  Any thoughts 
would be a help.  Front passenger window.Thanks

Regards Tom 



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Re: [MBZ] w 108 wheel bearing noise

2007-03-26 Thread .Afzaal.Khan.
I did change the rear wheel bearings along with the front ones. The Rear 
ones were not easy sailing.

Engine mountings are o.k .
The fan shroud is missing  and I have not been able to source it as yet. On 
the stands the noise is not there and that is the surprising bit, Its a 
elusive grinding  noise .

regards
mak


- Original Message - 
From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 7:22 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] w 108 wheel bearing noise



It's unusual for a road gear related noise to stay at the same pitch
and intensity with varying road speed and load, though.

Are your engine mounts in good shape?  Maybe the fan is vibrating the
shroud or something (although that should change with engine speed).

I forget, did you change the REAR axle bearings?

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Leaky IP

2007-03-26 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin

Im sure somebody has them, I do not off the top of my head.

BTW, when did you start accumulating cars?  You seem to have quite the 
heard.  Notice you have a 87 300TD, how is that doing?  Dont remember 
you getting that.


Ralph W wrote:
Does that mean I have to visit my favorite certified MB mechanic? Any idea 
where I can get the special instructions and picture of the tool?


Ralph W.
'83 300CD '82 300TD (2 parts wagons)
'90 300D   '01 E320 Wagon
'87 300TD
- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Leaky IP



its the delivery valve seals, requires a special tool and special
instructions.

Ralph W wrote:
I am looking for some wisdom on how to stop a diesel leak in the IP of my 
'90 2.5L. Fuel is leaking out the top of the pump at the base of the 
threaded fitting which the injector lines are threaded on. These fittings 
seem to be held in place by some flat metal plates which are bolted down 
to the top of the IP. The leak is definitely welling up from the pump and 
not from the threaded nut of the lines. Can someone please give me some 
insight in what I may find if I start dismantling things? Is there some 
sort of gasket which is leaking?

TIA.

Ralph W.
'83 300CD '82 300TD (2 parts wagons)
'90 300D   '01 E320 Wagon
'87 300TD
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com



Re: [MBZ] w 108 wheel bearing noise

2007-03-26 Thread Peter Frederick

Mak:

Almost has to be a bearing or bearing housing, or something that only 
rubs when the weight of the car is on the wheels.


The left rear bearing is OK, the right one is pure pain, I think

I'm out of ideas -- look for something that moves and interferes with 
the wheels or tires when the car is sitting down.


Also, did you change the bearing race in the hub when you did the front 
bearings?  It's not always in the box with the bearing, sometimes you 
have to get it separately, and if it was bad, a new bearing will sound 
just as bad as the old one as the race is still bad and rough.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] columbus CL 450SEL

2007-03-26 Thread andrew strasfogel

IMHO such a car is not worth restoring because 1) valve job is surely
needed soon ($3,000), 2) crappy interiors (thin wood and leather), 3)
poor fuel economy, 4) dash is probably cracked and looks oogy, 5) they
usually stink of stale tobacco smoke, and 6) poor fuel economy and
overall technology is passe.

On 3/25/07, Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/299919286.html

Anyone interested?

--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 290Kmi - for sale
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
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Re: [MBZ] columbus CL 450SEL

2007-03-26 Thread Jim Cathey

IMHO such a car is not worth restoring because 1) valve job is surely
needed soon ($3,000), 2) crappy interiors (thin wood and leather), 3)
poor fuel economy, 4) dash is probably cracked and looks oogy, 5) they
usually stink of stale tobacco smoke, and 6) poor fuel economy and
overall technology is passe.


Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, how did you like the play?

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] SL passenger seat doglegs

2007-03-26 Thread Jim Cathey
Does anyone have the passenger seat doglegs (The part connecting the 
seat
back rest to the seatbottom frame.  Note: It would have the back rest 
seat

adjust knob on the left) to fit a '76 SL?  TIA.


Now how in heck did you come to be needing one of those?

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Culprit Found

2007-03-26 Thread Jim Cathey

Some day I will learn to check the simple things first.


Sage advice.


And do the old loop style GPs *ever* burn out?


I think it's fairly rare.

-- Jim




[MBZ] Wierd Buzzer

2007-03-26 Thread B Dike
W115'ers

The 74 240D is running great...except for the buzzer...which goes on when I 
brake hard, and sometimes when I depress the clutch, but it goes off  when I 
shift into neutral (4 speed manual)!  One must put the car in gear sooner or 
later, after all, so it's a bit of a bother.  What is it trying to tell me?

V/R,


Bruce
82 300CD 348kmi 'His'
85 300CD 253kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen' gone to a better place
74 240D 79kmi 'Orangewagen'
73 220D 'Fnu Lnu'
 
-
Food fight? Enjoy some healthy debate
in the Yahoo! Answers Food  Drink QA.
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Thread-Topic: [MBZ] Mercedes Benz classic car center
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From: Peter Merle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Will they help non US residents I wonder?

Peter

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 28 August 2006 09:55 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Benz classic car center


My understanding is they've been around for a while atleast since 2001=20
=20
Harry
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL   108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata  =20
=20
=20
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 9:43 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Benz classic car center


Just be careful - they gave me the wrong part number for my 83 300TD
rear bumper.  Really had Rusty confused for awhile.

On 8/27/06, dan elliott [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hello All,

 Not sure if this made the list but I read in a magazine that MB was=20
 opening the first manufacturer backed classic car center in Inrvine=20
 CA.  The center will offer sales, restoration and search assistance=20
 for models 20 years and older.  I did a google search and sure enough=20
 I came up with http://www.mbusa.com/heritage/classic-center-
 california.do

 Hope others will find this interesting, perhaps a good place to get an

 usual part.

 Regards,

 Dan Elliott
 82 300D-T 100kmi

 Reading like this...

 =20
 The Mercedes-Benz Classic Center in Irvine, California, is the ideal=20
 place for owners, collectors, and enthusiasts to connect with this=20
 legendary brand. In addition to meticulously restoring and selling=20
 classic Mercedes- Benz vehicles, the Classic Center offers appraisals,

 provides Genuine Mercedes-Benz Classic Parts, and can even host your=20
 special event.

 We look forward to seeing you at the Classic Center - and sharing 120=20
 years of automotive history.


 =20
 Visit the Classic Center and experience the most inspiring collection=20
 of vintage Mercedes-Benz vehicles outside the original Classic Center=20
 in Fellbach, Germany. Whether you are looking to restore a classic or=20
 buy one for your collection, the Classic Center can help meet your=20
 needs. Expert restoration and repair services - including spare parts=20
 information and sales - are available to assist owners in maintaining=20
 the prime condition of their classics to factory standards of=20
 originality and preservation.
 For more details, please call 1-866-MB-CLASSIC (1-866-622-5277).

Re: [MBZ] Leaky IP

2007-03-26 Thread Ralph W

Kaleb,
I've had most of the cars for a while now. I just recently got the '87 wagon 
from Jeff Zedic before he crossed the pond. I changed the tranny filter and 
put M1 ATF in and the tranny went to hell along with engine power. Indy 
suggested going back to standard fluid and try some Lucas. It's like a 
different vehicle now. Flares have gone to snappy shifts and car seems much 
more powerful. I was considering dumping it but will now keep it. Indy is 
now fixing rusted out jacking points.


As far as the two 123 parts wagons, one was also from Zedic about three 
years ago. The other was my wifes before I got into a front end collision 
with it. I'm just about done parting them both out and sending them on. One 
to the salvage yard and the other to a new owner with more space to store a 
nice rust free body.


Ralph W.
'83 300CD '82 300TD (2 parts wagons)
'90 300D   '01 E320 Wagon
'87 300TD
- Original Message - 
From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 8:41 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Leaky IP



Im sure somebody has them, I do not off the top of my head.

BTW, when did you start accumulating cars?  You seem to have quite the
heard.  Notice you have a 87 300TD, how is that doing?  Dont remember
you getting that.






Re: [MBZ] When to use Mobil 1 after engine rebuild

2007-03-26 Thread Peter Merle
Peter , 
I'm not sure what the general understanding of high gear is - do you
mean gear 1,2 or 3,4 ?
Thanks
Peter


-Original Message-
From: Peter Frederick [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: 23 March 2007 03:20 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] When to use Mobil 1 after engine rebuild


No more than 500 miles.  Make sure you do some full throttle high load 
runs (steep hills in high gear) first -- this polishes the cylinders a 
bit and seats the rings.  If you don't, oil consumption may stay high 
for a long time, MB cylinder walls are fairly hard, and they don't use 
scraper rings.

Change the filter at the same time.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Benz classic car center

2007-03-26 Thread LarryT

They are supposed to help world-wide.

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Peter Merle [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2007 2:38 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Benz classic car center



Will they help non US residents I wonder?

Peter

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 28 August 2006 09:55 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Benz classic car center


My understanding is they've been around for a while atleast since 2001

Harry
69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
72 350SL   108,000 Miles
2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
1999 Mazda Miata


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 9:43 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Benz classic car center


Just be careful - they gave me the wrong part number for my 83 300TD
rear bumper.  Really had Rusty confused for awhile.

On 8/27/06, dan elliott [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Hello All,

Not sure if this made the list but I read in a magazine that MB was
opening the first manufacturer backed classic car center in Inrvine
CA.  The center will offer sales, restoration and search assistance
for models 20 years and older.  I did a google search and sure enough
I came up with http://www.mbusa.com/heritage/classic-center-
california.do

Hope others will find this interesting, perhaps a good place to get an



usual part.

Regards,

Dan Elliott
82 300D-T 100kmi

Reading like this...


The Mercedes-Benz Classic Center in Irvine, California, is the ideal
place for owners, collectors, and enthusiasts to connect with this
legendary brand. In addition to meticulously restoring and selling
classic Mercedes- Benz vehicles, the Classic Center offers appraisals,



provides Genuine Mercedes-Benz Classic Parts, and can even host your
special event.

We look forward to seeing you at the Classic Center - and sharing 120
years of automotive history.



Visit the Classic Center and experience the most inspiring collection
of vintage Mercedes-Benz vehicles outside the original Classic Center
in Fellbach, Germany. Whether you are looking to restore a classic or
buy one for your collection, the Classic Center can help meet your
needs. Expert restoration and repair services - including spare parts
information and sales - are available to assist owners in maintaining
the prime condition of their classics to factory standards of
originality and preservation.
For more details, please call 1-866-MB-CLASSIC (1-866-622-5277).




The Classic Center is your source for nearly 40,000 spare parts for
classic Mercedes-Benz vehicles - from major assemblies like
transmissions to small individual parts for virtually any need. Each
product is made to Mercedes-Benz specifications and backed by the same



factory limited warranty (12 months, unlimited mileage) that covers
parts for brand-new Mercedes-Benz vehicles. We can even access your
vehicle's original build sheet and other archival data, free of
charge. It's all part of the exceptional customer service you've come
to expect from Mercedes-Benz. For more details, please call
1-866-MB-CLASSIC (1-866-622-5277). Please have the following
information available when you call: model, model year, and vehicle
identification number (VIN).

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[MBZ] OT: Smart car for US

2007-03-26 Thread OK Don

This month's issue of Winding Road (on-line mag) features the new
Smart car, and discusses Penske's plans for bring it to the US.
http://www.windingroad.com/


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] Leaky IP

2007-03-26 Thread Loren Faeth
Rusty has the socket.  that and a torque wrench is all you need.  Order at 
least one extra oring and copper seal.  clean everything in the area very 
thoroughly before starting.  It only takes a speck of grit or even lint to 
mess up an injector.


Applies to OM606   W210.025/OM606.962 delivery valves.  Most should apply 
to OM603


A few weeks ago I was asking about this job... I finished it, and it
wasn't that bad (I'm kicking myself for not taking photos though!)

It took me less than four hours for this job and that included running out
to get the T-40. The 4 hours that the labor guide quotes is generous,
certainly... If anyone has any thoughts/comments on this, lemme know.



Parts:
7x 603 078 01 41 (Injection pipe clips)
7x 601 078 26 41 (Injection pipe shims--trim them on one side)
2x 601 078 26 41 (Injection pipe clips)
1x 606 141 01 80 (Intake manifold gasket OM 606 only, your gasket may vary)

6x 017 997 41 48 (Bosch 1-460-210-321 O-ring, you may want spares)
6x 004 997 45 40 (Bosch 1-410-105-021 Copper seal washer)
 (These are the same rings as used on a 602 or 603 engine.)
Optional:
6x 001 074 34 93 Delivery valve spring.


Tools:
-8mm socket or nutrunner
-10mm socket
-6mm hex bit socket
-T-30 socket
-T-40 socket
-13mm *special* crowsfoot 000 589 77 03 00
-32/33 spline *special* socket 617 589 01 09 00
-a dental pick or similar to aid in removal of seal rings and washers
-some sort of zero residue aerosol cleaner (carb cleaner or electronics
cleaner)
-Torque wrenches capable of 10Nm - 35Nm
-A box of rags (like the ones they sell at home depot, Scott Brand)
misc extensions and ratchets and adapters (3/8-1/2 bushing, 3/8-1/4
reducer)
-a can of clean oil (I used clear fine machine oil) or diesel fuel

Instructions:
-The first thing you want to do is jack the car up and remove at least the
middle underpan (8mm hex head 4 places)

-You will need to remove the bolt fastening the charge air cooler pipe to
the EGR valve on the bottom of the intake manifold (Mine was missing!) as
well as the clamp holding the EGR tube to the manifold/EGR valve (10mm
bolt).

-Put the car back down on the ground and remove the plastic oversheild on
the valve cover (6mm hex bit, 8 screws)

-Now is a good time to clean all the accumulated gunk off the top of the
engine while everything is still closed up.

-Remove the two 10mm bolts securing the oil separator to the top of the
engine (over #5 injector) and carefully remove the separator and breather
tube. (You might want to stick a bit of rag into the open tube ends on the
engine)

-Remove the T-40 head manifold bolts (14 places, I think).  There is one
hiding under the lifting eye back by #5 or #6.

-Gently lift the manifold free, disconnecting the vacuum control line and
the boost pressure sensing line from the valve.  Be cautious of the little
plastic clamp on the boost line.  You may want to fill the manifold with
some cleaner to let it soak while you work

-Carefully slide the intake manifold gasket out (to the front of the
engine), noting its orientation.

-Stuff CLEAN lint-free rags into each intake ports and the intercooler
pipe to keep crud out of them.

-Clean off the top of the injection pump (carb cleaner, etc).

-Make a diagram of where the injection lines go, and more importantly, how
the various clips attach to them.  Take note of how the first two lines
run around the low pressure fuel and injection bypass hoses.

-Remove all of the clips from the injection lines. 80% or more will
likely break.

-Loosen the injection line nuts and remove the injection lines. The
special crowsfoot (13mm) above really makes it much easier on the engine
side.

-Remove the three T-30 screws that secure the delivery valve lock rings to
the injection pump.  Take note of how the lock rings are laying on the
pump.

-Remove all of the lock rings.

-Clean the top of the IP again--pay special attention to around the
delivery valves.

***

-Using the special spline socket, loosen the first delivery
valve holder.  Unscrew it by hand and SLOWLY lift the valve holder, being
careful to not let the spring get lost/drop out or pull the valve from
inside the pump.

-Use the (CLEAN) pick to remove the copper seal ring from the top of the
assembly that was under the valve holder.

-Carefully lower a new copper seal ring onto the assembly. Try to keep the
ring and assembly more or less centered within the bore

-Remove the O-ring from the outside of the valve holder.  Use carb cleaner
or similar to clean all the crud off the outside of the body (don't flush
it inside!)

-Fit a new O-Ring onto the delivery valve body. Put a few drops of oin on
the threads of the valve and on each side of the O-Ring, ensuring that the
ring is well-oiled.

-Thread the delivery valve body into the IP by hand, being cautious of the
valve assembly and the spring.  (The spring should seat on top of the
valve assembly into the pump), and the O-ring should not be pinched.

-Using a torque wrench and the spline socket, 

Re: [MBZ] Drivable on Modern Roads, was 240D

2007-03-26 Thread Curt Raymond

Wha??? I almost never come to a complete stop before shifting from R to D...
My Dodge Dakota (AT) has almost 200,000 miles on it and the trans still pulls 
strong and shifts good.
The guys a the quickielube place say it shifts hard but I honestly don't notice 
or care.
My wife has a nasty habit of shifting into R before ending forward movement 
which drives me up the wall. She doesn't even know she's doing it, I cry out in 
anguish when she does it and I get the blank stare what?

Come to think of it my dad does the same shifting thing that I do, neither of 
us have had any trans trouble on any car with 2 exceptions.
#A When the 1st gear synchro went out of my '88 GMC Jimmy (manual trans, 5spd) 
but it'd always popped out of gear occasionally. I think it had a bad synchro 
from the factory which we should have reported.
#2 When I had the trans replaced on my 240D (manual trans) for what I'm now 
convinced was a squealing center bearing.

Other than that and regular maintenance I can't think of any trans trouble in 
any of our family vehicles ever...

You know who tend to be hard on transmissions I bet? Bulldozer drivers. 
Bulldozer transmissions of today are amazing things, throw it into forward up 
to full speed, whack it into reverse full speed, back to forward. All so hard 
you can hurt your neck and it'll work like that for years and years... Pretty 
near magic if you ask me.

-Curt

Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2007 07:10:26 -0400
From: LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Drivable on Modern Roads, was 240D
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
 reply-type=original

You are correct in your assumption that shifting into D before coming 
to a 
complete stop in R is a bad thing.  It's been one of the more 
emphazised 
warnings in all Owners Manuals.  Not only are the univ joints stressed 
in 
the worst possible way, the AT is not designed for that kind of abuse.  
At 
the least it can slip/burn clutches, at worst it can break something.

Your observation about people's personal opinion of their driving 
abilty is 
sadly true also.  Passing a 20 question drivers license quiz and being 
able 
to parallel park is not enough.  I wish each state would require at a 
minimum a Defensive Driving Course such as offered by Bob Bondurant and 
others.  I'd also like the test to require a better knowledge of 
driving 
laws - at the top of my list would be, the left laneis for *Passing* 
not 
cruising.  Just as important, when merging the driver *must* keep 
moving as 
fast as possible - with the applicant being told how much easier it is 
to 
merge into 55mph traffic while going 50mph than from a standing start.

Re-testing every 5 years would emphasize the need to stay aware of new 
laws 
and to keep skills up.  By new laws I mean:   in Va they passed a law 
stating if conditions require windshield wipers, the headlights shall 
also 
be turned on.

OK - rant off.

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.

 
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Re: [MBZ] Culprit Found

2007-03-26 Thread Loren Faeth
In my experience, they fail more frequently than pencil type.  I always 
spent the bucks to convert to pencil type/parallel glow plugs


At 11:08 PM 3/25/2007, you wrote:

 Some day I will learn to check the simple things first.

Sage advice.

 And do the old loop style GPs *ever* burn out?

I think it's fairly rare.

-- Jim


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Loren Faeth 





[MBZ] 96 E320

2007-03-26 Thread Potter, Tom E
I am going to look at a 1996 E320 that is for sale locally. It has the
I6 DOHC engine. It looks nice from the pictures. Please give me your
opinions on this model, as I have no experience with it.

Thanks,

Tom Potter



Re: [MBZ] w 108 wheel bearing noise

2007-03-26 Thread .Afzaal.Khan.

Thanks Peter  Absolutely agree that it is  a bearing induced  noise.
Complete new bearings with  supplied races were installed and I felt quite 
sure that the problem would be resolved .
As I asked  earlier -could it be the  bearing at the output  end of the 
diff. .connectiong to the drive shaft.?  I have not replaced this one.
Its isolating the  area,but its impossible to do so  while driving as the 
noise is omnidirectional.

mak

- Original Message - 
From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2007 5:25 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] w 108 wheel bearing noise



Mak:

Almost has to be a bearing or bearing housing, or something that only
rubs when the weight of the car is on the wheels.

The left rear bearing is OK, the right one is pure pain, I think

I'm out of ideas -- look for something that moves and interferes with
the wheels or tires when the car is sitting down.

Also, did you change the bearing race in the hub when you did the front
bearings?  It's not always in the box with the bearing, sometimes you
have to get it separately, and if it was bad, a new bearing will sound
just as bad as the old one as the race is still bad and rough.

Peter


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4:36 PM







Re: [MBZ] columbus CL 450SEL

2007-03-26 Thread andrew strasfogel

They look pretty cool from about 50 feet, so much so that I occasionally
l*st after them despite the realities.

On 3/26/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


 IMHO such a car is not worth restoring because 1) valve job is surely
 needed soon ($3,000), 2) crappy interiors (thin wood and leather), 3)
 poor fuel economy, 4) dash is probably cracked and looks oogy, 5) they
 usually stink of stale tobacco smoke, and 6) poor fuel economy and
 overall technology is passe.

Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, how did you like the play?

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Wierd Buzzer

2007-03-26 Thread andrew strasfogel

Buckle up?

On 3/26/07, B Dike [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


W115'ers

The 74 240D is running great...except for the buzzer...which goes on when
I brake hard, and sometimes when I depress the clutch, but it goes off  when
I shift into neutral (4 speed manual)!  One must put the car in gear sooner
or later, after all, so it's a bit of a bother.  What is it trying to tell
me?

V/R,


Bruce
82 300CD 348kmi 'His'
85 300CD 253kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen' gone to a better place
74 240D 79kmi 'Orangewagen'
73 220D 'Fnu Lnu'

-
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in the Yahoo! Answers Food  Drink QA.
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[MBZ] W140 ??

2007-03-26 Thread E M

OK, have a few questions regarding the W140 S Class (S500).  I'm looking for
a car for my Dad.  I've looked at a few older W126 models, but most are
either rough, unknown history, or the old tin worm is starting to get to
them.  I've looked around for a SDL, but not many around up here.  I know
there has been much negative stuff said about the old W140, but I've always
loved the look of the car.  Also, they seem to have depreciated pretty fast
compared to some other models.  Ok, the questions.  What is the going range
for a nice S500?  What were the real problems with these cars, and did they
infact have that many problems, or was most of it due to lact of maintance?
I mean, were there problems with the important things like the engine, trans
etc, or was it more fiddly things like the auto door close latch, and
similar toys?What are some of the problem areas on these cars?  My dad
does very few miles now that he's retired, but I'd like a big safe
comfortable car for him and Mum.  Gas mileage is not a really big issue.  I
now a coulpe of guys sell parts on the list, and there are a few mail order
places listed too.  Any of you guys carry parts for the old W140?  Also, any
places in Canada selling parts, other than the dealer?  I've seen a S500s
around lately.  Can anyone recommend a used car place in Toronto for such
cars.  The few I've seen at the dealer are WAY above what them seem to go
for in the market, and they weren't even anything extra special.

Thanks for any help, suggestions and advise.
Ed


Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Benz classic car center

2007-03-26 Thread andrew strasfogel

They are very helpful, although I do miss the website pricelist service.

On 3/26/07, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


They are supposed to help world-wide.

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message -
From: Peter Merle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2007 2:38 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Benz classic car center


 Will they help non US residents I wonder?

 Peter

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: 28 August 2006 09:55 AM
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Benz classic car center


 My understanding is they've been around for a while atleast since 2001

 Harry
 69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
 72 350SL   108,000 Miles
 2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
 1999 Mazda Miata


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Sun, 27 Aug 2006 9:43 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Benz classic car center


 Just be careful - they gave me the wrong part number for my 83 300TD
 rear bumper.  Really had Rusty confused for awhile.

 On 8/27/06, dan elliott [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hello All,

 Not sure if this made the list but I read in a magazine that MB was
 opening the first manufacturer backed classic car center in Inrvine
 CA.  The center will offer sales, restoration and search assistance
 for models 20 years and older.  I did a google search and sure enough
 I came up with http://www.mbusa.com/heritage/classic-center-
 california.do

 Hope others will find this interesting, perhaps a good place to get an

 usual part.

 Regards,

 Dan Elliott
 82 300D-T 100kmi

 Reading like this...


 The Mercedes-Benz Classic Center in Irvine, California, is the ideal
 place for owners, collectors, and enthusiasts to connect with this
 legendary brand. In addition to meticulously restoring and selling
 classic Mercedes- Benz vehicles, the Classic Center offers appraisals,

 provides Genuine Mercedes-Benz Classic Parts, and can even host your
 special event.

 We look forward to seeing you at the Classic Center - and sharing 120
 years of automotive history.



 Visit the Classic Center and experience the most inspiring collection
 of vintage Mercedes-Benz vehicles outside the original Classic Center
 in Fellbach, Germany. Whether you are looking to restore a classic or
 buy one for your collection, the Classic Center can help meet your
 needs. Expert restoration and repair services - including spare parts
 information and sales - are available to assist owners in maintaining
 the prime condition of their classics to factory standards of
 originality and preservation.
 For more details, please call 1-866-MB-CLASSIC (1-866-622-5277).




 The Classic Center is your source for nearly 40,000 spare parts for
 classic Mercedes-Benz vehicles - from major assemblies like
 transmissions to small individual parts for virtually any need. Each
 product is made to Mercedes-Benz specifications and backed by the same

 factory limited warranty (12 months, unlimited mileage) that covers
 parts for brand-new Mercedes-Benz vehicles. We can even access your
 vehicle's original build sheet and other archival data, free of
 charge. It's all part of the exceptional customer service you've come
 to expect from Mercedes-Benz. For more details, please call
 1-866-MB-CLASSIC (1-866-622-5277). Please have the following
 information available when you call: model, model year, and vehicle
 identification number (VIN).

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Re: [MBZ] columbus CL 450SEL

2007-03-26 Thread E M

My Dad had a 450 SEL back when they were new ('80) model and it was a great
car.  Other than that, and an SL for a while, he was an American car buy.  I
never forgot those doors, or how the seats felt, or how you could hit a bump
and still comtinue along in a straight line, compared to our Caddy's and
other boats.  A friend had an SD version, and it's still around, in his
Grandson's hands now.  Build like a tank, very little rust even after all
these years of Canadian winters.  I've love to find a nice one. Ours was
gray with dark blue interior.  And those 6.9s were yummy. :-)  I had dreams
for a long time about stuffing a 6.9 in a short wheelbase model, and doing
the period correct AMG treatment on it. hee hee.  I even have a copy of an
old AMG catalog, back before Mercedes owned them.  Remember the Hammer
days?? :-)

Ed

On 26/03/07, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


They look pretty cool from about 50 feet, so much so that I occasionally
l*st after them despite the realities.

On 3/26/07, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  IMHO such a car is not worth restoring because 1) valve job is surely
  needed soon ($3,000), 2) crappy interiors (thin wood and leather), 3)
  poor fuel economy, 4) dash is probably cracked and looks oogy, 5) they
  usually stink of stale tobacco smoke, and 6) poor fuel economy and
  overall technology is passe.

 Other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, how did you like the play?

 -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Leaky IP

2007-03-26 Thread Ralph W

Thanks Loren!

Ralph W.
'83 300CD '82 300TD (2 parts wagons)
'90 300D   '01 E320 Wagon
'87 300TD




Re: [MBZ] Wierd Buzzer

2007-03-26 Thread JFreezn
 
In a message dated 3/25/2007 11:25:54 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

The 74  240D is running great...except for the buzzer...which goes on when I 
brake  hard, and sometimes when I depress the clutch, but it goes off  when I  
shift into neutral (4 speed manual)!  One must put the car in gear sooner  or 
later, after all, so it's a bit of a bother.  What is it trying to  tell me?



Bruce,
 
The 74's did have some weird circuitry and starter interlock involving the  
seat belts.  Most people had the interlock bypassed but the buzzer may  still 
remain in the circuit.  I bet your passenger front seat is triggering  the 
buzzer, especially if you throw a book or other object on the  seat.  Try 
latching 
the seat belt together and see if the problem goes  away.
 
You can unplug the seat belt wiring at a two pole connector under each  front 
seat  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles 
98 ML 320, 147 K  miles




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Re: [MBZ] OT: Smart car for US

2007-03-26 Thread Alex Chamberlain

On 3/26/07, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


This month's issue of Winding Road (on-line mag) features the new
Smart car, and discusses Penske's plans for bring it to the US.
http://www.windingroad.com/



A dealer here in Portland, Ore. (http://www.oswegoluxury.com/) has been
selling the previous-generation model for a couple of months.  Gray market
of course.  Apparently they are flying off the lot despite the $10K+ markup
for EPA/DOT/XYZ certification.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper


Re: [MBZ] W140 ??

2007-03-26 Thread John M McIntosh


On Mar 26, 2007, at 9:59 AM, E M wrote:

Pricing is $10-25K


What are some of the problem areas on these cars?


Ohh nice car, timeless, wonderful to drive any distance, mind I have  
a bias opinion.  Quite easy to spend $5K on repairs without blinking.


I see mercedes canada only has 3 for sale, $24-28k. Look for a 98/99  
they have all the toys and some of the engineering issues worked out,  
that might delay some fixes by a couple of years as compared to a  
92-93 era.


engine harness, that replaced?
A/C evaporator? (big$)
electronic throttle actuator (ASR system) comes with non-oem- 
replacable potentiometer that wears, entire unit$ I'm sure...

door/trunk vacuum pump works?.

Long list, which is why depreciated so much I'm sure, still if you  
had 410K set aside for repairs and not twitch over it, you can have a  
nice comfy car. Still you might find a nice example maintained by  
someone who certainly won't get his resale value out of it, no mine  
is not for sale...




My dad
does very few miles now that he's retired, but I'd like a big safe
comfortable car for him and Mum.  Gas mileage is not a really big  
issue.



John
1983 300TDt  384k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1990's 300TDt  189k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 184k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)





Re: [MBZ] 96 E320

2007-03-26 Thread Donald Snook
Tom Potter wrote: 

 

I am going to look at a 1996 E320 that is for sale locally. It has the
I6 DOHC engine. It looks nice from the pictures. Please give me your
opinions on this model, as I have no experience with it. 

 

There are others on the list that have more knowledge about these cars.
But, I will throw in my .2. These cars have some fairly consistent
corrosion problems.   Look at the front shock towers - I think a lot of
them rust out and the nothing holds the shock in place.  I think this is
also included in the line of cars that has the biodegradable wiring
harness - I have heard that is an expensive repair.   I think the
engines are great and return some fairly spectacular mileage.  I don't
recall whether these cars have the evap/ac problem also or if that is
just the latest model 124s and 140s

 

Despite all these problems, I think the owners of them are very happy
with them.

 

 

Donald H. Snook

1990 300SEL 136K 



Re: [MBZ] OT: Smart car for US

2007-03-26 Thread John M McIntosh


On Mar 26, 2007, at 11:19 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:


On 3/26/07, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


This month's issue of Winding Road (on-line mag) features the new
Smart car, and discusses Penske's plans for bring it to the US.
http://www.windingroad.com/


I think the most interesting statistic was that  50% of the Canadian  
owners live in rural areas. Shall I take the
F150 diesel dually that gets like 10 mpg, or the wife's Smart that  
gets 60 mpg when I run into town to

pickup the mail?

I'm sure the decision is the old sleep dog finds it easier on his  
bones to step down into the Smart, versus being pushed up into the  
crew cab?



John
1983 300TDt  384K Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1990's 300TDt  189K Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 184K Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)





Re: [MBZ] W140 ??

2007-03-26 Thread Alex Chamberlain

On 3/26/07, E M [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


The few I've seen at the dealer are WAY above what them seem to go
for in the market, and they weren't even anything extra special.



Might be worth it, considering that new-car dealers tend to keep only the
best trade-ins to sell themselves and auction the rest off.  A 140 is
definitely the kind of car where the buy the best one you can afford rule
applies---no way are you going to be able to save money fixing up a
neglected example like you might with a 123.

Where I live I bet you could find a tired 500SEL for $8,000 or a really nice
one for $18,000 (just pulling numbers out of the air to make a point, but
they're probably close enough).  Either way you would end up spending
$25,000 total when you'd fixed what needed to be fixed.  The difference is
that the car that cost less originally is going to be a lot rougher around
the edges---when all's said and done you have a nice-driving but ratty car
for the same price as a nice-driving, nice-looking one.

(I am half-seriously shopping for an E34 chassis BMW right now and finding
pretty much the same thing to be true.  Prices range from $2 -10K, but the
$2K ones need a LOT more work.)

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper


Re: [MBZ] Leaky IP

2007-03-26 Thread Loren Faeth

thank John Reames!  He did most of the work.

Compressed air is best for cleaning the iP deck and delivery valve 
fittings.  If you back out the delivery valves a turn or two, there is 
residual dirt the o-ring will bring up after you have cleaned all you 
can.  At this point, clean the deck again.  Even a compressed air can 
(computer cleaner) is better than no air.  In a pinch, when no compressor 
is available, I have even used soda straws to get a little low pressure air 
right at the deck where the delivery valve body goes in.


Also, the orings often disintegrate and leave black crumbs in spite of your 
best cleaning.   Fish out all the pieces you can once the valve is 
out.  take care not to loose the little delivery valve pins.  If you order 
replacement springs, then it it is no big deal if a spring drops out on 
disassembly.



At 12:11 PM 3/26/2007, you wrote:

Thanks Loren!

Ralph W.
'83 300CD '82 300TD (2 parts wagons)
'90 300D   '01 E320 Wagon
'87 300TD


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Re: [MBZ] OT: Smart car for US

2007-03-26 Thread Kevin Kraly
There's a local Chevy dealer selling them, and they seem to be selling very 
well!  There were 4 on the lot Thursday, and all but one of them were gone 
yesterday.  I want to go feel one up when I get a chance.


Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 266K miles, Ursula 





[MBZ] Noise from upper left front suspension area - '84 300D

2007-03-26 Thread Glenn Brown

I've recently been experiencing a noise which seems to be emanation from
the upper left front suspension area and seems to be on the rebound cylce
when encountering bumps (Note: The bumps do not need to be very large to
cause this).  Sometimes there will be just one knock/rot sound, and other
times there will be a rot-a-tot sound.  I jacked her up and removed the left
front wheel this afternoon but did not see anything visually obvious and
could not move anything in the suspension by hand (too tight).  Any ideas?
TIA.

G. M. Brown
Rochester, NY


Re: [MBZ] Noise from upper left front suspension area - '84 300D

2007-03-26 Thread John Robbins
I had a strange noise that turned out to be a slightly loose brake 
caliper...  a quick and easy thing to check :-)


Others will probably want to know what year and chassis your car is too... 


John
'79 300SD

Glenn Brown wrote:

I've recently been experiencing a noise which seems to be emanation from
the upper left front suspension area and seems to be on the rebound cylce
when encountering bumps (Note: The bumps do not need to be very large to
cause this).  Sometimes there will be just one knock/rot sound, and other
times there will be a rot-a-tot sound.  I jacked her up and removed the left
front wheel this afternoon but did not see anything visually obvious and
could not move anything in the suspension by hand (too tight).  Any ideas?
TIA.

G. M. Brown
Rochester, NY
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Re: [MBZ] Noise from upper left front suspension area - '84 300D

2007-03-26 Thread John Robbins


Others will probably want to know what year and chassis your car is too... 
  
I should probably read the whole subject line... 



Re: [MBZ] OT: Smart car for US

2007-03-26 Thread R A Bennell
So long as your neighbor in his F250 doesn't run over you in your Smart car, 
you will be fine. I know they are
built strong and you just bounce like a basket ball rather than get squished 
like a bug but I'm getting old and I
don't bounce as well as I once did. I still prefer more car around me thankyou. 
If I decide to step down into
something smaller, I want a Jetta TDI.

Randy

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John M McIntosh
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2007 12:36 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Smart car for US



On Mar 26, 2007, at 11:19 AM, Alex Chamberlain wrote:

 On 3/26/07, OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 This month's issue of Winding Road (on-line mag) features the new
 Smart car, and discusses Penske's plans for bring it to the US.
 http://www.windingroad.com/

I think the most interesting statistic was that  50% of the Canadian
owners live in rural areas. Shall I take the
F150 diesel dually that gets like 10 mpg, or the wife's Smart that
gets 60 mpg when I run into town to
pickup the mail?

I'm sure the decision is the old sleep dog finds it easier on his
bones to step down into the Smart, versus being pushed up into the
crew cab?


John
1983 300TDt  384K Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1990's 300TDt  189K Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 184K Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)



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[MBZ] VIN / Carfax

2007-03-26 Thread Roger Conlon

Would somebody with a carfax account be willing to run a VIN check for me?

WDBCB20A7DB040628  should be a 83 300SD

Thanks
Roger

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Re: [MBZ] W140 ??

2007-03-26 Thread E M

Thanks John, I appreciate your views and pointers.  I do a lot of the
servicing on my own cars and have a few friends who are pretty good with
such things, and they have access to shops.  I know I'll pay extra for some
of the parts, I just don't want to get into something where you pay silly
money for things.  I have no desire to be Mercedes R and D department.  I
already work for Porsche in that role. :-)  The whole process of finding a
good used benz is becoming frustrating.  Either they are old junkers, or
expensive new stuff which I don't think for the most part are very good
quality.  If I have to drive something that's going to break, I'd rather
stand in line with my wallet out at the Chev parts counter than the Benz
counter. hee hee :-)  I've even asked a small dealer friend to help me out.
If I con't find something within the next couple of months, I think I'll
have to give up on the used benz idea.
Thanks again for your help John, appreciate it.
Ed

On 26/03/07, John M McIntosh [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



On Mar 26, 2007, at 9:59 AM, E M wrote:

Pricing is $10-25K

 What are some of the problem areas on these cars?

Ohh nice car, timeless, wonderful to drive any distance, mind I have
a bias opinion.  Quite easy to spend $5K on repairs without blinking.

I see mercedes canada only has 3 for sale, $24-28k. Look for a 98/99
they have all the toys and some of the engineering issues worked out,
that might delay some fixes by a couple of years as compared to a
92-93 era.

engine harness, that replaced?
A/C evaporator? (big$)
electronic throttle actuator (ASR system) comes with non-oem-
replacable potentiometer that wears, entire unit$ I'm sure...
door/trunk vacuum pump works?.

Long list, which is why depreciated so much I'm sure, still if you
had 410K set aside for repairs and not twitch over it, you can have a
nice comfy car. Still you might find a nice example maintained by
someone who certainly won't get his resale value out of it, no mine
is not for sale...


 My dad
 does very few miles now that he's retired, but I'd like a big safe
 comfortable car for him and Mum.  Gas mileage is not a really big
 issue.


John
1983 300TDt  384k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1990's 300TDt  189k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 184k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)



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Re: [MBZ] W140 ??

2007-03-26 Thread E M

Hi Alex,
I agree, I've always tried to find the best example I can when shopping
used.  I find it's always cheaper and I end up with a car I'm proud of.

I see very few at the dealers now, and I check today in ON showed zero.
guess they are getting on somewhat for a dealer to stock.  I've looked at a
few BMWs too, but the same problem...questionable service history, or off
lease at the dealer, and almost silly money for what the market really is.
I do like BMWs but a few friends have had real dogs!  When you get into a
bad one, I think the ride and cost is almost as bad as with a benz.

As I mentioned in a previous post, if I don't have any luck over the next
couple of months, may just shop Merican.  No, not an old benz, but what is?
hee hee.

I'd like to find a nice clean well maintained benz with lower miles and just
pay a good buck for it, but when you really start to look, not that many out
there.  Guess people want to hang on to a good thing.

Thanks for your help and advise Alex
Ed

On 26/03/07, Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


On 3/26/07, E M [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 The few I've seen at the dealer are WAY above what them seem to go
 for in the market, and they weren't even anything extra special.


Might be worth it, considering that new-car dealers tend to keep only the
best trade-ins to sell themselves and auction the rest off.  A 140 is
definitely the kind of car where the buy the best one you can afford
rule
applies---no way are you going to be able to save money fixing up a
neglected example like you might with a 123.

Where I live I bet you could find a tired 500SEL for $8,000 or a really
nice
one for $18,000 (just pulling numbers out of the air to make a point, but
they're probably close enough).  Either way you would end up spending
$25,000 total when you'd fixed what needed to be fixed.  The difference is
that the car that cost less originally is going to be a lot rougher around
the edges---when all's said and done you have a nice-driving but ratty car
for the same price as a nice-driving, nice-looking one.

(I am half-seriously shopping for an E34 chassis BMW right now and finding
pretty much the same thing to be true.  Prices range from $2 -10K, but the
$2K ones need a LOT more work.)

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper
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Re: [MBZ] Noise from upper left front suspension area - '84 300D

2007-03-26 Thread Potter, Tom E
Loose/worn shock.

Tom Potter

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Glenn Brown
Sent: Monday, March 26, 2007 3:34 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] Noise from upper left front suspension area - '84 300D

I've recently been experiencing a noise which seems to be emanation from
the upper left front suspension area and seems to be on the rebound
cylce
when encountering bumps (Note: The bumps do not need to be very large to
cause this).  Sometimes there will be just one knock/rot sound, and
other
times there will be a rot-a-tot sound.  I jacked her up and removed the
left
front wheel this afternoon but did not see anything visually obvious and
could not move anything in the suspension by hand (too tight).  Any
ideas?
TIA.

G. M. Brown
Rochester, NY
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Re: [MBZ] VIN / Carfax

2007-03-26 Thread andrew strasfogel

Carfax checks this out as a 1987 Yugo.

On 3/26/07, Roger Conlon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Would somebody with a carfax account be willing to run a VIN check for me?

WDBCB20A7DB040628  should be a 83 300SD

Thanks
Roger

_
Interest Rates near 39yr lows! $430,000 Mortgage for $1,399/mo - Calculate
new payment

http://www.lowermybills.com/lre/index.jsp?sourceid=lmb-9632-18466moid=7581


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Re: [MBZ] When to use Mobil 1 after engine rebuild

2007-03-26 Thread Peter Frederick
4th.  Don't lug it, but you do need to have it under high load at 
medium speed.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] Noise from upper left front suspension area - '84 300D

2007-03-26 Thread Peter Frederick
Check the sway bar mount and upper control arm (very short).  The bolt 
can break, or worse, the sway bar end can break off, causing a clatter 
or kloing sound as the bar catches, then vibrates free -- a muffled 
ringing noise.


Peter




[MBZ] Extended Warranty Providers

2007-03-26 Thread Potter, Tom E
Anybody have any opinions on Auto One Warranty Specialists. I am
contemplating getting an extended warranty from them on my
granddaughter's vehicle. If you are not familiar with this one, is there
an extended warranty provider that you recommend?

Thanks,

Tom Potter