Re: [MBZ] Hood Pad

2013-05-18 Thread clay
I tried the one man on the car job with Gump. That was a difficult and messy 
task.  Flat and easy to reach, without my head getting hit or glue coated pad 
jumping on me is much preferred

clay


On May 17, 2013, at 6:37 PM, Scott Ritchey wrote:

 
 Dan nailed it on the 3M part numbers.  
 
 Have you ever removed and replaced your hood?  Removing the hood would
 certainly make the pad replacement easier but I suspect hood RR is not easy
 and is probably at least a 2-person job.
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of clay
 Sent: Friday, May 17, 2013 7:32 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hood Pad
 
 I was planning to remove the hood so that I could do a very good job of
 cleaning as well as to install the rear end pad.  That should also allow me
 to have gravity work for me than against me
 
 clay
 
 
 On May 17, 2013, at 1:22 PM, Scott Ritchey wrote:
 
 
 Just my experience:  I replaced the hood pad on my 82 300SD, maybe 15+
 years
 ago.  Neither pad (old or replacement) had any foil.  The old pad was a
 crumbly mess The smartest thing I did was to drape a drop cloth over the
 engine to catch all the crap.  I scraped off as much of the old pad as I
 could without damaging the paint and then used a 3M spray solvent and MANY
 paper towels to get the rest.  It came really clean.  I installed the new
 pad with a 3M spray glue on both surfaces; it worked like contact cement
 so
 you have to position it right the first time.  I don't recall the specific
 3m products but a local auto supply place had them in stock.  As I recall,
 there were two types of 3M spray glue and I used the stronger type.  The
 replacement pad (from Rusty, about $50 as I recall) looks fine to this
 day.
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of OK Don
 Sent: Friday, May 17, 2013 4:12 PM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Hood Pad
 
 I bought hood pads for both the '90 and '93 300D 2.5Ts from Q - the one
 for
 the '90 had no foil at all, the one for the '93 had foil over the turbo
 area. FWIW.
 
 
 On Fri, May 17, 2013 at 12:54 AM, clay redgh...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 Would there be any other areas to de-foil?
 
 I am pretty sure the felt stuff will not attract much in the conductive
 manner.  The battery has covers for both terminals and I intended to
 remove
 that foil anyway, just because.
 
 clay
 
 
 
 
 
 -- 
 OK Don
 2013 F150
 2012 Passat TDI DSG
 1957 C182A
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Re: [MBZ] Hood Pad

2013-05-18 Thread clay
Were I able to put that hood to a 90 I would, but it only goes to 60 and then 
wants to hit me about the noggin

clay

On May 17, 2013, at 4:38 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:

 It's certainly your call, but if you get a couple of old sheets and drape 
 them over the front clip and engine compartment it does a good job of keeping 
 all the gunk from the old pad out of stuff.  I have done them on a ladder 
 with the hood at 90 degrees without too much effort.
 
 I use a plastic body putty scraper for removing the old pad and adhesive.  
 It's pretty porous, so the adhesive remover will soak in well and do a quick 
 job of softening everything up so you can easily scrape the remnants off.
 
 Dan
 
 
 On May 17, 2013, at 7:32 PM, clay wrote:
 
 I was planning to remove the hood so that I could do a very good job of 
 cleaning as well as to install the rear end pad.  That should also allow me 
 to have gravity work for me than against me
 
 clay
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Hood Pad

2013-05-18 Thread clay
Sharpie and three sets of hand.  My indy said I am allowed to take the hood off 
as long as I do not touch anything under it

clay

On May 17, 2013, at 6:47 PM, Dan Penoff wrote:

 3M Adhesive Remover is a magic elixir.  I always have at least one can in the 
 paint cabinet.  Amazing what that stuff can do.
 
 My big problem with removing the hood is being able to get it aligned when 
 you put it back.  It's a tricky thing to do and take a lot of careful 
 attention to detail.. it can also be very frustrating.
 
 Dan
 
 
 On May 17, 2013, at 9:37 PM, Scott Ritchey wrote:
 
 
 Dan nailed it on the 3M part numbers.  
 
 Have you ever removed and replaced your hood?  Removing the hood would
 certainly make the pad replacement easier but I suspect hood RR is not easy
 and is probably at least a 2-person job.
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Euro 124 diesel, Portland CL

2013-05-18 Thread Mitch Haley

clay wrote:

Yes.  I have been keeping track of the available options so that once the check 
clears, I am able to swoop down and put a replacement on the policy


You like 126?
You need to find a SEC with engine trouble, and buy back the 300D from the 
insurance company.


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Re: [MBZ] newer

2013-05-18 Thread Mitch Haley

relng...@aol.com wrote:
now, the big failures ($$) are the Electronic Ignition Module in the early 
cars (from 2008, all models) which is the unit that unlocks the steering 
column when the key is inserted. When it fails the car is flatbedded to a dealer 
for a minimum $1K bill. This is NOT a diy repair. Yes, this is an electronic 
failure where the key and key slot fail to communicate.


Yikes.
I'm willing to put up with $300 smartkeys, but not that.

And I thought the VATS in my Oldsmobile was annoying.
It's the simplest version, where the key is purely mechanical and the ignition 
lock has the resistor in it. When it started acting up, I never knew when I 
might be stuck waiting ten minutes for it to let me start the car. When it 
started happening often, I took the covers off the steering column and unplugged 
the Passlock wires with the car running. Now the computer knows Passlock has 
failed and will ignore it from now on.
The official cure on the Olds would have been a new lock $125, installation and 
making the computer learn to recognize the new lock ($100 or so), and no longer 
having the ignition key fit the doors. Or I could have taken the lock to a 
locksmith for repair/replacement and been able to keep my existing ignition key.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Diesel prices

2013-05-18 Thread Michael Canfield
Not here in NY.  Okie folks must be special...

Mike
On May 17, 2013 9:48 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote:

 In ok right now diesel is selling about 30-40 cents cheaper than gas.
 First time I have seen that in years.

 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] best chainsaw

2013-05-18 Thread Michael Canfield
Strong men are not afraid of chainsaws, guns or work.

Weak men are afraid of them.

Strong men fight for our rights.

Weak men throw them away.

I am thankful for strong men who have given us our freedoms.

I am tired of weak men whining about what is not given for free.

Mike
Who is glad to have the right to chose my Mercedes.
On May 17, 2013 9:21 PM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:

 On May 17, 2013, at 6:33 PM, Rich Thomas 
 richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

  My other buddy, a flaming liberal anti-gun biochemist professor, drives
 a C230.  He regularly gets schooled on guns, and he does not use a
 chainsaw.  I think there might be a correlation there.


 Since you mention it...


 http://www.dailymail.co.uk/health/article-2325414/Men-physically-strong-likely-right-wing-political-views.html?ITO=1490ns_mchannel=rssns_campaign=1490



 Rick
 Sent from my iPhone

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Re: [MBZ] OT: Gun Laws vs Enforcement

2013-05-18 Thread Rich Thomas
Right in the Chairman's neighborhood where there are stringent laws 
against murder, guns, drugs, shooting someone, etc etc.

http://www.chicagotribune.com/news/local/breaking/chi-man-fatally-shot-in-chatham-20130517,0,1724588.story

--R

On 5/17/13 7:09 PM, Mountain Man wrote:

Andrew wrote:

OK, I agree - it's time to ban lightning, pillows, trampolines, and...

Everyone has opinion.
Zero opinion is new.
Both sides are being duped and indoctrinated.
We are being played.
Nobody is identifying the play-master, but the play-master is laughing all
the way to the bank on both sides.  We are being played, don't bow, don't
be stupid.
Standard banned closing (ommitted).
mao
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[MBZ] W140 Engine Lower Wiring Harness

2013-05-18 Thread Dan Penoff
Well, after a few weird flickers of the low oil level light this week, I 
figured I would have to bite the bullet and rebuild the lower wiring harness, 
as it is the original and has the self-destructing insulation (or had, I should 
say.)

For the most part this wasn't described as a difficult job by those who have 
gone before me, but I might beg to differ.

I have just emerged from a 1-1/2 hour ordeal under the car, removing things I 
never thought I would have to in order to get this harness off.  In doing so I 
have removed a number of pieces of the harness, as they either impeded removal 
or were falling apart to the point where they simply shattered into little 
pieces when handled.

The worst part?  A bracket aft of the starter where the harness is supported by 
a metal bracket that is bolted to the bell housing.  The nut on the stud that 
held it in place came off easy enough, as have all the fasteners (thank you MB 
for using stainless fasteners) but the bracket itself is under a support 
bracket for the AT dipstick tube.  This wouldn't be an issue if the dipstick 
tube wasn't bolted to the back of the head about 12 above this point, making 
the tube immovable without the removal of this bracket, which is so tight 
against the firewall it is nearly impossible to remove it in situ.

So I deconstructed the harness in place and pulled everything through the hole 
in the supporting bracket.  I considered cutting a piece out of the loop so I 
could just lift the harness out, but once I got the jacket off the harness I 
could easily separate the large B+ cable from the rest and thread everything 
through the bracket.

Now I have the harness out of the car.

Another discovery: MB has now moved to molded connectors as opposed to those 
that can be disassembled.  Only one of the connectors on the harness are of 
this type, so I'll have to cut and splice onto the existing wires to make 
things work.  This is especially troublesome at the bulkhead connector, as 
there are four wires going into the connector in very close proximity to each 
other.  I'll have to heat shrink and insulate these very carefully so there is 
no potential for them to touch each other.

So now it's shower time and then off to my local Ace Hardware to source some 
replacement wire of the proper gauge and length.

I would interject that a new harness is around $350 from MB, hence the desire 
to rebuild it myself.

More to come.

Dan


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Re: [MBZ] Hood Pad

2013-05-18 Thread Craig
On Fri, 17 May 2013 23:37:31 -0700 clay redgh...@comcast.net wrote:

 Were I able to put that hood to a 90 I would, but it only goes to 60
 and then wants to hit me about the noggin

Why can you not put the hood to a 90? You do need to release the stops on
both sides, in the proper order: IIRC, left first, right second.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] W140 Engine Lower Wiring Harness

2013-05-18 Thread Craig
On Sat, 18 May 2013 10:58:24 -0400 Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

 So now it's shower time and then off to my local Ace Hardware to source
 some replacement wire of the proper gauge and length.
 
 I would interject that a new harness is around $350 from MB, hence the
 desire to rebuild it myself.
 
 More to come.

We will be waiting for it. May you have success in your work.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Diesel prices

2013-05-18 Thread Bob Rentfro
Gas and diesel were both hanging out at $3.35 for about ten days, diesel
having came down from $4. Yesterday, gas jumped to $3.55 and diesel has
shot up to $3.65. Lovely.

Bob R
On May 18, 2013 7:14 AM, Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com wrote:

 Not here in NY.  Okie folks must be special...

 Mike
 On May 17, 2013 9:48 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote:

  In ok right now diesel is selling about 30-40 cents cheaper than gas.
  First time I have seen that in years.
 
  Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] best chainsaw

2013-05-18 Thread dseretakis
Can I use a chain saw to cut up cars at a junkyard instead of my cordless 
sawzall?

Sent from my iPhone

On May 18, 2013, at 10:20 AM, Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com wrote:

 Strong men are not afraid of chainsaws, guns or work.
 
 Weak men are afraid of them.
 
 Strong men fight for our rights.
 
 Weak men throw them away.
 
 I am thankful for strong men who have given us our freedoms.
 
 I am tired of weak men whining about what is not given for free.
 
 Mike
 Who is glad to have the right to chose my Mercedes.
 On May 17, 2013 9:21 PM, Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com wrote:
 
 On May 17, 2013, at 6:33 PM, Rich Thomas 
 richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:
 
 My other buddy, a flaming liberal anti-gun biochemist professor, drives
 a C230.  He regularly gets schooled on guns, and he does not use a
 chainsaw.  I think there might be a correlation there.
 
 
 Since you mention it...
 
 
 http://www.dailymail.co.uk/health/article-2325414/Men-physically-strong-likely-right-wing-political-views.html?ITO=1490ns_mchannel=rssns_campaign=1490
 
 
 
 Rick
 Sent from my iPhone
 
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[MBZ] Package Deal in Baltimore

2013-05-18 Thread Dan Penoff
Not sure what's going on here, but...

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/sale-wanted-trade-giveaway/1712308-fs-190e-300te-bundle.html

Dan
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Re: [MBZ] Hood Pad

2013-05-18 Thread Jim Cathey

Why can you not put the hood to a 90?


107's don't do that, any more than 115's do.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Hood Pad

2013-05-18 Thread dseretakis
That stuff is incredibly effective but even more incredibly deleterious to your 
health. I get an instantaneous headache using the stuff!

Sent from my iPhone

On May 17, 2013, at 9:47 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

 3M Adhesive Remover is a magic elixir.  I always have at least one can in the 
 paint cabinet.  Amazing what that stuff can do.
 
 My big problem with removing the hood is being able to get it aligned when 
 you put it back.  It's a tricky thing to do and take a lot of careful 
 attention to detail.. it can also be very frustrating.
 
 Dan
 
 
 On May 17, 2013, at 9:37 PM, Scott Ritchey wrote:
 
 
 Dan nailed it on the 3M part numbers.  
 
 Have you ever removed and replaced your hood?  Removing the hood would
 certainly make the pad replacement easier but I suspect hood RR is not easy
 and is probably at least a 2-person job.
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] best chainsaw

2013-05-18 Thread Rich Thomas
There is an attachment that has an abrasive cutoff wheel instead of the 
bar and chain.  Get that and yer good ta go.  Or steal one off a fire truck.


--R


On 5/18/13 11:37 AM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

Can I use a chain saw to cut up cars at a junkyard instead of my cordless 
sawzall?

Sent from my iPhone





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Re: [MBZ] Package Deal in Baltimore

2013-05-18 Thread Rich Thomas

I kinda like Turnpike's siggie vid

--R

On 5/18/13 11:40 AM, Dan Penoff wrote:

Not sure what's going on here, but...

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/sale-wanted-trade-giveaway/1712308-fs-190e-300te-bundle.html

Dan
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Re: [MBZ] Hood Pad

2013-05-18 Thread Craig
On Sat, 18 May 2013 08:56:41 -0700 Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net
wrote:

  Why can you not put the hood to a 90?
 
 107's don't do that, any more than 115's do.

Oh. I thought he was talking about his newer car.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] best chainsaw

2013-05-18 Thread Gerry Archer


Rich Thomas  richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

My other buddy, a flaming liberal anti-gun biochemist professor, drives

a C230.  He regularly gets schooled on guns, and he does not use a
chainsaw.  I think there might be a correlation there.


-
Guns, chainsaws, and expensive cars (which are socially aggressive);  are
all instruments of aggression, and most men are psychologically wired for
aggression:

Handling a gun makes men's testosterone levels rise -- and
makes them more aggressive.

The finding comes from a study by psychology student Jennifer Klinesmith and
her professors at Knox College, Galesburg, Ill. Klinesmith designed the
study, in which 18- to 22-year-old college men participated.
Klinesmith told the men they'd be taking part in a study of the effect of
attention to detail on taste sensitivity. She collected a saliva sample for
testosterone testing. Then she led each man into a room where he sat at a
table with an object on it. The man had to take apart the object and put it
back together according to instructions.
For half the men, the object was a pellet gun that mimicked a Desert Eagle
automatic handgun. The other half of the men worked with a child's game
called Mouse Trap.
Fifteen minutes later, the men gave another saliva sample. Then they were
asked to taste a lidded 3-ounce cup of water with a drop of Frank's Red Hot
Sauce in it.
Hot-Sauce Trick
Finally, the men were given a 3-ounce cup of water and a bottle of the hot
sauce. They were told the water would be given to the next man in the study,
and that they could -- anonymously -- put as much hot sauce in the water as
they liked.
This hot-sauce trick has been used before. The more aggressive a man is
feeling, the more hot sauce he tends to put in the next guy's drink.
Sure enough, testosterone went up about 100 times more in the men who
handled the gun than in the men who handled the children's toy. And the gun
handlers put three times more hot sauce in the water -- on average, about a
half ounce -- than the toy handlers.
The more a man's testosterone went up after gun handling, the more hot sauce
he put in the water.
Such findings raise many of the usual questions about whether the presence
of guns in modern society contributes to violent behavior, Klinesmith and
colleagues conclude. Although our study is clearly far from definitive, its
results suggest that guns may indeed increase aggressiveness partially via
changes in the hormone testosterone.
Indeed, after debriefing, many of the men said they were disappointed that
the water they'd spiked with hot sauce wasn't really going to be given to
another unsuspecting man.
The study appears in the July issue of Psychological Science.

  http://men.webmd.com/news/20060728/guns-up-testosterone-male-aggression

.
Psychologists claim that men like poking weapons; guns, chainsaws,
pool cues, knives, etc., etc.; because they are sublimations of mans sex 
drive.


Obviously, aggression can be a good thing when used for constructive or
defensive purposes.  This is a fact that some left wing liberals routinely
ignore.
Gerry.middle of the roader

---  



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Re: [MBZ] best chainsaw

2013-05-18 Thread Mitch Haley

dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

Can I use a chain saw to cut up cars at a junkyard instead of my cordless 
sawzall?


You'd want a Rescue Saw with a carbide toothed chain.
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/chain-saws/rescue-saws/

It's got the full wrap handlebar of a west coast logger's saw with a carbide 
chain. They're used mainly by fire departments to cut holes in roofs, going 
through shingles, nails, anything that might be in the way.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Package Deal in Baltimore

2013-05-18 Thread Mitch Haley

Dan Penoff wrote:

Not sure what's going on here, but...

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/sale-wanted-trade-giveaway/1712308-fs-190e-300te-bundle.html


What's going on here is a need for $2500 and two fuel pump relays, I'd wager.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] best chainsaw

2013-05-18 Thread Mitch Haley

Rich Thomas wrote:
There is an attachment that has an abrasive cutoff wheel instead of the 
bar and chain.  Get that and yer good ta go.  Or steal one off a fire 
truck.


Yeah, a Concrete Saw would do it too, just not as fast as a Rescue Saw.
The Stihl concrete saws, AKA cut off machines, also have huge fuel tanks.
http://www.stihlusa.com/products/cut-off-machines/professional-cut-off-machines/

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Re: [MBZ] Euro 124 diesel, Portland CL

2013-05-18 Thread Max
NA OM606 in that heavier body would be a little slow.  Probably faster than a 
240D, but not much.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

clay wrote:
 Yes.  I have been keeping track of the available options so that once
the check clears, I am able to swoop down and put a replacement on the
policy

You like 126?
You need to find a SEC with engine trouble, and buy back the 300D from
the 
insurance company.



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Re: [MBZ] Euro 124 diesel, Portland CL

2013-05-18 Thread Mitch Haley

Max wrote:

NA OM606 in that heavier body would be a little slow.  Probably faster than a 
240D, but not much.


Kind of a pity the 300D is a 1995 and not a 1998, eh?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] W140 Engine Lower Wiring Harness

2013-05-18 Thread WILTON

ATTABOY and more underway.  ;)

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com

To: Mercedes List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2013 10:58 AM
Subject: [MBZ] W140 Engine Lower Wiring Harness


Well, after a few weird flickers of the low oil level light this week, I 
figured I would have to bite the bullet and rebuild the lower wiring 
harness, as it is the original and has the self-destructing insulation (or 
had, I should say.)


For the most part this wasn't described as a difficult job by those who 
have gone before me, but I might beg to differ.


I have just emerged from a 1-1/2 hour ordeal under the car, removing 
things I never thought I would have to in order to get this harness off. 
In doing so I have removed a number of pieces of the harness, as they 
either impeded removal or were falling apart to the point where they 
simply shattered into little pieces when handled.


The worst part?  A bracket aft of the starter where the harness is 
supported by a metal bracket that is bolted to the bell housing.  The nut 
on the stud that held it in place came off easy enough, as have all the 
fasteners (thank you MB for using stainless fasteners) but the bracket 
itself is under a support bracket for the AT dipstick tube.  This wouldn't 
be an issue if the dipstick tube wasn't bolted to the back of the head 
about 12 above this point, making the tube immovable without the removal 
of this bracket, which is so tight against the firewall it is nearly 
impossible to remove it in situ.


So I deconstructed the harness in place and pulled everything through the 
hole in the supporting bracket.  I considered cutting a piece out of the 
loop so I could just lift the harness out, but once I got the jacket off 
the harness I could easily separate the large B+ cable from the rest and 
thread everything through the bracket.


Now I have the harness out of the car.

Another discovery: MB has now moved to molded connectors as opposed to 
those that can be disassembled.  Only one of the connectors on the harness 
are of this type, so I'll have to cut and splice onto the existing wires 
to make things work.  This is especially troublesome at the bulkhead 
connector, as there are four wires going into the connector in very close 
proximity to each other.  I'll have to heat shrink and insulate these very 
carefully so there is no potential for them to touch each other.


So now it's shower time and then off to my local Ace Hardware to source 
some replacement wire of the proper gauge and length.


I would interject that a new harness is around $350 from MB, hence the 
desire to rebuild it myself.


More to come.

Dan


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Re: [MBZ] Euro 124 diesel, Portland CL

2013-05-18 Thread Max
Aye!
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

Kind of a pity the 300D is a 1995 and not a 1998, eh?

Mitch.



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Re: [MBZ] best chainsaw

2013-05-18 Thread dseretakis
Really? Are u pulling my leg?

Sent from my iPhone

On May 18, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 There is an attachment that has an abrasive cutoff wheel instead of the bar 
 and chain.  Get that and yer good ta go.  Or steal one off a fire truck.
 
 --R
 
 
 On 5/18/13 11:37 AM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
 Can I use a chain saw to cut up cars at a junkyard instead of my cordless 
 sawzall?
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] best chainsaw

2013-05-18 Thread Max
Rich?  Less than serious?  Never!
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

Really? Are u pulling my leg?

Sent from my iPhone

On May 18, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Rich Thomas
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 There is an attachment that has an abrasive cutoff wheel instead of
the bar and chain.  Get that and yer good ta go.  Or steal one off a
fire truck.
 
 --R
 



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Re: [MBZ] W140 Engine Lower Wiring Harness - Progress Update

2013-05-18 Thread Dan Penoff
Got the harness rebuilt, but I'm not totally pleased with it.  Taking care of 
the wires and various terminals was no big deal.  Where the old wires enter the 
bulkhead connector has me concerned.

All four wires enter within about 0.5 mm of each other, and the insulation on 
most of them flaked off all the way down to the potting compound used to seal 
the connector.  I used heat shrink on them and applied pressure to keep it up 
agains the connector as I ran the heat gun over everything.  If you move the 
wires to the side of the connector, that is, at a 90 degree angle, you can see 
exposed copper.

Of course, I'm probably being overly cautious, since the wires will be exiting 
the connector perpendicularly, so they won't be bent or flexed to the sides at 
all.

Here's what I am doing to keep them separated - I'm interested in any feedback 
on my methodology:

I spread them all apart (90 degrees from the connector body) to get as much 
distance between each of them as possible.  I forced a blob of RTV into the 
center between all of them, making sure it squeezed out between each.  I'm 
leaving it to cure for a few hours before I return the wires to their proper 
orientation.  When I do, I'm going to place a small wooden dowel or plastic rod 
in the center of them, maybe 1 in length and 1/8-3/16 in diameter, and tape 
up the harness with the wires evenly spaced around it to keep them apart.

I figure between the RTV being forced into the space between them and the rod 
keeping them apart I should avoid any possibility of them touching.

Let's hope so.

In a couple of hours the fun starts back up again as I reinstall the rebuilt 
harness.

Dan


 - Original Message - From: Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com
 To: Mercedes List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2013 10:58 AM
 Subject: [MBZ] W140 Engine Lower Wiring Harness
 
 
 Well, after a few weird flickers of the low oil level light this week, I 
 figured I would have to bite the bullet and rebuild the lower wiring 
 harness, as it is the original and has the self-destructing insulation (or 
 had, I should say.)
 
 For the most part this wasn't described as a difficult job by those who have 
 gone before me, but I might beg to differ.
 
 I have just emerged from a 1-1/2 hour ordeal under the car, removing things 
 I never thought I would have to in order to get this harness off. In doing 
 so I have removed a number of pieces of the harness, as they either impeded 
 removal or were falling apart to the point where they simply shattered into 
 little pieces when handled.
 
 The worst part?  A bracket aft of the starter where the harness is supported 
 by a metal bracket that is bolted to the bell housing.  The nut on the stud 
 that held it in place came off easy enough, as have all the fasteners (thank 
 you MB for using stainless fasteners) but the bracket itself is under a 
 support bracket for the AT dipstick tube.  This wouldn't be an issue if the 
 dipstick tube wasn't bolted to the back of the head about 12 above this 
 point, making the tube immovable without the removal of this bracket, which 
 is so tight against the firewall it is nearly impossible to remove it in 
 situ.
 
 So I deconstructed the harness in place and pulled everything through the 
 hole in the supporting bracket.  I considered cutting a piece out of the 
 loop so I could just lift the harness out, but once I got the jacket off 
 the harness I could easily separate the large B+ cable from the rest and 
 thread everything through the bracket.
 
 Now I have the harness out of the car.
 
 Another discovery: MB has now moved to molded connectors as opposed to those 
 that can be disassembled.  Only one of the connectors on the harness are of 
 this type, so I'll have to cut and splice onto the existing wires to make 
 things work.  This is especially troublesome at the bulkhead connector, as 
 there are four wires going into the connector in very close proximity to 
 each other.  I'll have to heat shrink and insulate these very carefully so 
 there is no potential for them to touch each other.
 
 So now it's shower time and then off to my local Ace Hardware to source some 
 replacement wire of the proper gauge and length.
 
 I would interject that a new harness is around $350 from MB, hence the 
 desire to rebuild it myself.
 
 More to come.
 
 Dan
 
 
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] W140 Engine Lower Wiring Harness - Progress Update

2013-05-18 Thread Gerry Archer
Sounds good.  I've done essentially the same thing and had no later 
problems.

Gerry

From: Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com


Got the harness rebuilt, but I'm not totally pleased with it.  Taking care 
of the wires and various terminals was no big deal.  Where the old wires 
enter the bulkhead connector has me concerned.


All four wires enter within about 0.5 mm of each other, and the insulation 
on most of them flaked off all the way down to the potting compound used 
to seal the connector.  I used heat shrink on them and applied pressure to 
keep it up agains the connector as I ran the heat gun over everything.  If 
you move the wires to the side of the connector, that is, at a 90 degree 
angle, you can see exposed copper.


Of course, I'm probably being overly cautious, since the wires will be 
exiting the connector perpendicularly, so they won't be bent or flexed to 
the sides at all.


Here's what I am doing to keep them separated - I'm interested in any 
feedback on my methodology:


I spread them all apart (90 degrees from the connector body) to get as 
much distance between each of them as possible.  I forced a blob of RTV 
into the center between all of them, making sure it squeezed out between 
each.  I'm leaving it to cure for a few hours before I return the wires to 
their proper orientation.  When I do, I'm going to place a small wooden 
dowel or plastic rod in the center of them, maybe 1 in length and 
1/8-3/16 in diameter, and tape up the harness with the wires evenly 
spaced around it to keep them apart.


I figure between the RTV being forced into the space between them and the 
rod keeping them apart I should avoid any possibility of them touching.


Let's hope so.

In a couple of hours the fun starts back up again as I reinstall the 
rebuilt harness.


Dan



- Original Message - From: Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com
To: Mercedes List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2013 10:58 AM
Subject: [MBZ] W140 Engine Lower Wiring Harness


Well, after a few weird flickers of the low oil level light this week, I 
figured I would have to bite the bullet and rebuild the lower wiring 
harness, as it is the original and has the self-destructing insulation 
(or had, I should say.)


For the most part this wasn't described as a difficult job by those who 
have gone before me, but I might beg to differ.


I have just emerged from a 1-1/2 hour ordeal under the car, removing 
things I never thought I would have to in order to get this harness off. 
In doing so I have removed a number of pieces of the harness, as they 
either impeded removal or were falling apart to the point where they 
simply shattered into little pieces when handled.


The worst part?  A bracket aft of the starter where the harness is 
supported by a metal bracket that is bolted to the bell housing.  The 
nut on the stud that held it in place came off easy enough, as have all 
the fasteners (thank you MB for using stainless fasteners) but the 
bracket itself is under a support bracket for the AT dipstick tube. 
This wouldn't be an issue if the dipstick tube wasn't bolted to the back 
of the head about 12 above this point, making the tube immovable 
without the removal of this bracket, which is so tight against the 
firewall it is nearly impossible to remove it in situ.


So I deconstructed the harness in place and pulled everything through 
the hole in the supporting bracket.  I considered cutting a piece out of 
the loop so I could just lift the harness out, but once I got the 
jacket off the harness I could easily separate the large B+ cable from 
the rest and thread everything through the bracket.


Now I have the harness out of the car.

Another discovery: MB has now moved to molded connectors as opposed to 
those that can be disassembled.  Only one of the connectors on the 
harness are of this type, so I'll have to cut and splice onto the 
existing wires to make things work.  This is especially troublesome at 
the bulkhead connector, as there are four wires going into the connector 
in very close proximity to each other.  I'll have to heat shrink and 
insulate these very carefully so there is no potential for them to touch 
each other.


So now it's shower time and then off to my local Ace Hardware to source 
some replacement wire of the proper gauge and length.


I would interject that a new harness is around $350 from MB, hence the 
desire to rebuild it myself.


More to come.

Dan


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Re: [MBZ] Euro 124 diesel, Portland CL

2013-05-18 Thread clay
I much prefer a longer wheel base and more doors.  Just too dang lazy to move 
my butt from my seat to let people in the car

clay

On May 18, 2013, at 4:55 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:

 clay wrote:
 Yes.  I have been keeping track of the available options so that once the 
 check clears, I am able to swoop down and put a replacement on the policy
 
 You like 126?
 You need to find a SEC with engine trouble, and buy back the 300D from the 
 insurance company.
 
 ___
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Re: [MBZ] W140 Engine Lower Wiring Harness

2013-05-18 Thread Craig
On Sat, 18 May 2013 11:31:47 -0400 WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 ATTABOY and more underway.  ;)

Indeed! Seconded!


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] best chainsaw

2013-05-18 Thread Craig
On Sat, 18 May 2013 13:40:33 -0400 Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 Rich?  Less than serious?  Never!
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston, SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20
 
 dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 Really? Are u pulling my leg?
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On May 18, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Rich Thomas
 richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:
 
  There is an attachment that has an abrasive cutoff wheel instead of
 the bar and chain.  Get that and yer good ta go.  Or steal one off a
 fire truck.

You can get a comparison chart of Stihl's products at

http://www.stihlusa.com/WebContent/CMSFileLibrary/downloads/Chain-Saw-Comparison-Chart.pdf


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Hood Pad

2013-05-18 Thread clay
All them old timey cars are not able to pop up in that manner.  Neither the SL 
nor Gump have that release.  The w124 does go right up

clay

On May 18, 2013, at 7:59 AM, Craig wrote:

 On Fri, 17 May 2013 23:37:31 -0700 clay redgh...@comcast.net wrote:
 
 Were I able to put that hood to a 90 I would, but it only goes to 60
 and then wants to hit me about the noggin
 
 Why can you not put the hood to a 90? You do need to release the stops on
 both sides, in the proper order: IIRC, left first, right second.
 
 
 Craig
 
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Re: [MBZ] W140 Engine Lower Wiring Harness - Progress Update

2013-05-18 Thread Max
Sounds like you'll be fine.  I have used a product call liquid electrical 
tape in similar situations and never had a problem.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

Got the harness rebuilt, but I'm not totally pleased with it.  Taking
care of the wires and various terminals was no big deal.  Where the old
wires enter the bulkhead connector has me concerned.



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Re: [MBZ] W140 Engine Lower Wiring Harness - Progress Update

2013-05-18 Thread Craig
On Sat, 18 May 2013 14:37:40 -0400 Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

 I figure between the RTV being forced into the space between them and
 the rod keeping them apart I should avoid any possibility of them
 touching.
 
 Let's hope so.
 
 In a couple of hours the fun starts back up again as I reinstall the
 rebuilt harness.

That sounds good, but I'm doubtful that the RTV will cure in 2 hours.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] W140 Engine Lower Wiring Harness - Progress Update

2013-05-18 Thread WILTON

ATTABOY!  'My thoughts re. the RTV before I read it.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2013 2:37 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W140 Engine Lower Wiring Harness - Progress Update


Got the harness rebuilt, but I'm not totally pleased with it.  Taking care 
of the wires and various terminals was no big deal.  Where the old wires 
enter the bulkhead connector has me concerned.


All four wires enter within about 0.5 mm of each other, and the insulation 
on most of them flaked off all the way down to the potting compound used 
to seal the connector.  I used heat shrink on them and applied pressure to 
keep it up agains the connector as I ran the heat gun over everything.  If 
you move the wires to the side of the connector, that is, at a 90 degree 
angle, you can see exposed copper.


Of course, I'm probably being overly cautious, since the wires will be 
exiting the connector perpendicularly, so they won't be bent or flexed to 
the sides at all.


Here's what I am doing to keep them separated - I'm interested in any 
feedback on my methodology:


I spread them all apart (90 degrees from the connector body) to get as 
much distance between each of them as possible.  I forced a blob of RTV 
into the center between all of them, making sure it squeezed out between 
each.  I'm leaving it to cure for a few hours before I return the wires to 
their proper orientation.  When I do, I'm going to place a small wooden 
dowel or plastic rod in the center of them, maybe 1 in length and 
1/8-3/16 in diameter, and tape up the harness with the wires evenly 
spaced around it to keep them apart.


I figure between the RTV being forced into the space between them and the 
rod keeping them apart I should avoid any possibility of them touching.


Let's hope so.

In a couple of hours the fun starts back up again as I reinstall the 
rebuilt harness.


Dan



- Original Message - From: Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com
To: Mercedes List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2013 10:58 AM
Subject: [MBZ] W140 Engine Lower Wiring Harness


Well, after a few weird flickers of the low oil level light this week, I 
figured I would have to bite the bullet and rebuild the lower wiring 
harness, as it is the original and has the self-destructing insulation 
(or had, I should say.)


For the most part this wasn't described as a difficult job by those who 
have gone before me, but I might beg to differ.


I have just emerged from a 1-1/2 hour ordeal under the car, removing 
things I never thought I would have to in order to get this harness off. 
In doing so I have removed a number of pieces of the harness, as they 
either impeded removal or were falling apart to the point where they 
simply shattered into little pieces when handled.


The worst part?  A bracket aft of the starter where the harness is 
supported by a metal bracket that is bolted to the bell housing.  The 
nut on the stud that held it in place came off easy enough, as have all 
the fasteners (thank you MB for using stainless fasteners) but the 
bracket itself is under a support bracket for the AT dipstick tube. 
This wouldn't be an issue if the dipstick tube wasn't bolted to the back 
of the head about 12 above this point, making the tube immovable 
without the removal of this bracket, which is so tight against the 
firewall it is nearly impossible to remove it in situ.


So I deconstructed the harness in place and pulled everything through 
the hole in the supporting bracket.  I considered cutting a piece out of 
the loop so I could just lift the harness out, but once I got the 
jacket off the harness I could easily separate the large B+ cable from 
the rest and thread everything through the bracket.


Now I have the harness out of the car.

Another discovery: MB has now moved to molded connectors as opposed to 
those that can be disassembled.  Only one of the connectors on the 
harness are of this type, so I'll have to cut and splice onto the 
existing wires to make things work.  This is especially troublesome at 
the bulkhead connector, as there are four wires going into the connector 
in very close proximity to each other.  I'll have to heat shrink and 
insulate these very carefully so there is no potential for them to touch 
each other.


So now it's shower time and then off to my local Ace Hardware to source 
some replacement wire of the proper gauge and length.


I would interject that a new harness is around $350 from MB, hence the 
desire to rebuild it myself.


More to come.

Dan


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[MBZ] Max's exhaust

2013-05-18 Thread WILTON
Max, what's the latest with your exhaust system, pipe clamps, etc.?

Wilton
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Re: [MBZ] best chainsaw

2013-05-18 Thread Rich Thomas
You haven't seen those things?  Guys on the pipe-laying crews use them, 
they have diamond blades for concrete, all kinds of cutting implements 
driven off a chainsaw motor/chassis/whatever it is.  The metal ones make 
some serious sparks, very cool stuff.


--R


On 5/18/13 1:27 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

Really? Are u pulling my leg?

Sent from my iPhone

On May 18, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:


There is an attachment that has an abrasive cutoff wheel instead of the bar and 
chain.  Get that and yer good ta go.  Or steal one off a fire truck.

--R


On 5/18/13 11:37 AM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

Can I use a chain saw to cut up cars at a junkyard instead of my cordless 
sawzall?

Sent from my iPhone


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Re: [MBZ] best chainsaw no, guns

2013-05-18 Thread Rich Thomas
I went to the range shooting with some buddies and my daughter, I found 
it very relaxing and it did not make me aggressive or horny or anything 
other than relaxed.  My buddies say it is very relaxing for them too, 
stop by the range at the end of the day and run through a box or two.  
Then they go out and rob a liquor store...  Oops, seriously, the act of 
focusing on the target, your grip, your breathing, the pull, everything 
just really empties your mind of extraneous thoughts and troubles.  I 
guess it would be like golfers experience, focusing on their swing and such.


--R

On 5/18/13 12:43 PM, Gerry Archer wrote:

Although our study is clearly far from definitive, its
results suggest that guns may indeed increase aggressiveness partially 
via
changes in the hormone testosterone. 



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Re: [MBZ] best chainsaw no, guns

2013-05-18 Thread Mitch Haley

Rich Thomas wrote:
I went to the range shooting with some buddies and my daughter, I found 
it very relaxing and it did not make me aggressive or horny or anything 
other than relaxed.  My buddies say it is very relaxing for them too, 
stop by the range at the end of the day and run through a box or two.  
Then they go out and rob a liquor store...  Oops, seriously, the act of 
focusing on the target, your grip, your breathing, the pull, everything 
just really empties your mind of extraneous thoughts and troubles.  I 
guess it would be like golfers experience, focusing on their swing and 
such.


Perhaps handing a toy gun to somebody who's never handled one has a different 
effect than handing a toy gun to somebody who shoots more often than Obama golfs?


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] best chainsaw no, guns

2013-05-18 Thread G Mann
H... shooting targets gives you a testosterone rush?  If that was the
case, viagra sales would be down for the over 50 group and ammo sales would
be up?

I don't think so... however, from personal experience, I used to hunt wild
boar with spear. If you truly want a testosterone rush.. give that a try.
Nothing like facing death and winning to give you an alpha rush. Of course,
I was young enough then, it didn't make much difference.

Grant...


On Sat, May 18, 2013 at 1:13 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 I went to the range shooting with some buddies and my daughter, I found it
 very relaxing and it did not make me aggressive or horny or anything other
 than relaxed.  My buddies say it is very relaxing for them too, stop by the
 range at the end of the day and run through a box or two.  Then they go out
 and rob a liquor store...  Oops, seriously, the act of focusing on the
 target, your grip, your breathing, the pull, everything just really empties
 your mind of extraneous thoughts and troubles.  I guess it would be like
 golfers experience, focusing on their swing and such.

 --R

 On 5/18/13 12:43 PM, Gerry Archer wrote:

 Although our study is clearly far from definitive, its
 results suggest that guns may indeed increase aggressiveness partially via
 changes in the hormone testosterone.



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Re: [MBZ] Diesel prices

2013-05-18 Thread Andrew Strasfogel
$3.859 today in Bethesda, MD


On Sat, May 18, 2013 at 11:20 AM, Bob Rentfro azbob...@gmail.com wrote:

 Gas and diesel were both hanging out at $3.35 for about ten days, diesel
 having came down from $4. Yesterday, gas jumped to $3.55 and diesel has
 shot up to $3.65. Lovely.

 Bob R
 On May 18, 2013 7:14 AM, Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com wrote:

  Not here in NY.  Okie folks must be special...
 
  Mike
  On May 17, 2013 9:48 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote:
 
   In ok right now diesel is selling about 30-40 cents cheaper than gas.
   First time I have seen that in years.
  
   Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] W140 Engine Lower Wiring Harness - Complete

2013-05-18 Thread Dan Penoff
The deed is done, and no fuses blew nor were there sparks with the exception of 
when I reconnected the battery.

The rebuilt harness went in fairly easy and there were no fasteners remaining 
when I was done.

Since the harness is strapped down to the point of immobility, I don't expect 
any issues in the future. All gauges and instrumentation work without issues, 
which is good as well.

The spouse and I are going to go out and have a nice dinner to tonight, the 
first time in a couple of months due to her former bad hip and related surgery. 
I may even treat myself to an adult beverage.

Dan dirty and sweaty ready for shower # 2
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Re: [MBZ] W140 Engine Lower Wiring Harness - Complete

2013-05-18 Thread Craig
On Sat, 18 May 2013 17:48:11 -0400 Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

 The deed is done, and no fuses blew nor were there sparks with the
 exception of when I reconnected the battery.
 
 The rebuilt harness went in fairly easy and there were no fasteners
 remaining when I was done.

Congratulations on a job well done!


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] W140 Engine Lower Wiring Harness - Complete

2013-05-18 Thread Max
Ok!  So there is an improvement in gauge behavior?
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

The deed is done,

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Re: [MBZ] Max's exhaust

2013-05-18 Thread Max
I've researched some clamps that I plan to purchase and try, but that's as far 
as I've gone.  I'd say my current solution is about 90% there, should be cake 
to get the last 10%.

Today I've been messing with the house upstairs HVAC.  Have warranty 
replacement coil on the way, but why not try fixing the leak?  Loyal readers 
may recall I lost the refrigerant charge earlier this spring, found and sealed 
a leak in the low pressure line at a joint upstairs.  Subsequent leak testing 
revealed another pin hole leak in the condenser coil.

I removed the panel holding the electronics so I had clear access to the 
offending coil elbow, cleaned it to bright shiny metal, found evidence of 
previous repair, sloppy solder work.

Got the N2 flow set up, heated the elbow until the old solder was just flowing, 
the added a touch of fresh and more heat so I had a nice smooth flow.

Pressurized again to test for more leaks, and did find about a 2% leak down 
over 5 hours, starting at 50 pounds psig.  Hmmm

Right now I'm pulling a vacuum to see if it will pass that test.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

Max, what's the latest with your exhaust system, pipe clamps, etc.?

Wilton
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Re: [MBZ] Max's exhaust

2013-05-18 Thread Craig
On Sat, 18 May 2013 19:27:49 -0400 Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 I've researched some clamps that I plan to purchase and try, but that's
 as far as I've gone.  I'd say my current solution is about 90% there,
 should be cake to get the last 10%.

So you are sure it will go against broad past experience that says the
last 10% is the hardest to get?


 Pressurized again to test for more leaks, and did find about a 2% leak
 down over 5 hours, starting at 50 pounds psig.  Hmmm

That sounds bad


 Right now I'm pulling a vacuum to see if it will pass that test.

What kind of vacuum pump do you use?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Max's exhaust

2013-05-18 Thread WILTON

'Hope it goes well.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2013 7:27 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Max's exhaust


I've researched some clamps that I plan to purchase and try, but that's as 
far as I've gone.  I'd say my current solution is about 90% there, should 
be cake to get the last 10%.


Today I've been messing with the house upstairs HVAC.  Have warranty 
replacement coil on the way, but why not try fixing the leak?  Loyal 
readers may recall I lost the refrigerant charge earlier this spring, 
found and sealed a leak in the low pressure line at a joint upstairs. 
Subsequent leak testing revealed another pin hole leak in the condenser 
coil.


I removed the panel holding the electronics so I had clear access to the 
offending coil elbow, cleaned it to bright shiny metal, found evidence of 
previous repair, sloppy solder work.


Got the N2 flow set up, heated the elbow until the old solder was just 
flowing, the added a touch of fresh and more heat so I had a nice smooth 
flow.


Pressurized again to test for more leaks, and did find about a 2% leak 
down over 5 hours, starting at 50 pounds psig.  Hmmm


Right now I'm pulling a vacuum to see if it will pass that test.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20

WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:


Max, what's the latest with your exhaust system, pipe clamps, etc.?

Wilton
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Re: [MBZ] Diesel prices

2013-05-18 Thread Mike Esh
$4.05 for diesel here in west Michigan. 

Michael E. Esh
231-286-2344


On May 18, 2013, at 5:36 PM, Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote:

 $3.859 today in Bethesda, MD
 
 
 On Sat, May 18, 2013 at 11:20 AM, Bob Rentfro azbob...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Gas and diesel were both hanging out at $3.35 for about ten days, diesel
 having came down from $4. Yesterday, gas jumped to $3.55 and diesel has
 shot up to $3.65. Lovely.
 
 Bob R
 On May 18, 2013 7:14 AM, Michael Canfield slozuk...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Not here in NY.  Okie folks must be special...
 
 Mike
 On May 17, 2013 9:48 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net wrote:
 
 In ok right now diesel is selling about 30-40 cents cheaper than gas.
 First time I have seen that in years.
 
 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] Max's exhaust

2013-05-18 Thread Max
Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:


So you are sure it will go against broad past experience that says the
last 10% is the hardest to get?


Good point, but if clamps don't do the trick, the job goes to local muffler 
shop for welding.


That sounds bad



I'm suspicious of one of my charging manifold hoses, and also that I set the 
charge while the coil was still hot from the repair.  Cooling coil should have 
reduced the pressure, no?


What kind of vacuum pump do you use?


Robinair

-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD, '73 Balboa 20



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Re: [MBZ] Max's exhaust

2013-05-18 Thread Craig
On Sat, 18 May 2013 21:37:06 -0400 Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 Craig diese...@pisquared.net wrote:
 
 
 So you are sure it will go against broad past experience that says the
 last 10% is the hardest to get?
 
 Good point, but if clamps don't do the trick, the job goes to local
 muffler shop for welding.

Yes, that would make it easy! :-)


 I'm suspicious of one of my charging manifold hoses, and also that I
 set the charge while the coil was still hot from the repair.  Cooling
 coil should have reduced the pressure, no?

The coil cooling would lower the pressure, but how much depends upon the
volume of the gas enclosed and heated by the coil compared with the total 
volume of the system.

A leaking manifold hose would definitely make the measurements suspect.


 What kind of vacuum pump do you use?

 Robinair

Model?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Low Oil Pressure W124 2.5 Turbo Diesel

2013-05-18 Thread Brian Toscano
if oil pressure is low at idle take the oil filler cap off and see how much
blow by you have.



On Fri, May 17, 2013 at 10:12 PM, Chris James c_ja...@gmx.com wrote:

 OM60x Min specs I believe are: 0.3 bar at idle and at least 3 bar at
 3000 rpm. Not sure what a 2.5 runs @ 60. 2200 RPM? So as long as it's
 pegged by 80 your OK! :-)


 Seriously though, from browsing the archive I'd replace both
 the o-rings  oil filter to rule out any sealing/gasket issues. IF that
 doesn't change anything you need to explore furtherbad relief valves
 (filter and/or pump), worn oil pump, pickup screen blockages ect

 Good luck!


 On 5/17/2013 8:32 PM, Rick Knoble wrote:

 I changed the sender out today. No change. Will do the o-rings
 tomorrow. I hope I haven't done any damage by running it with low
 oil pressure.

 Rick


 --
 Chris J.


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Re: [MBZ] best chainsaw

2013-05-18 Thread Brian Toscano
Stihl makes a 460 Rescue with a diamond tipped chain designed for cutting
anything diamonds will.. you know for the fire departments, etc.



On Sat, May 18, 2013 at 2:08 PM, Rich Thomas 
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 You haven't seen those things?  Guys on the pipe-laying crews use them,
 they have diamond blades for concrete, all kinds of cutting implements
 driven off a chainsaw motor/chassis/whatever it is.  The metal ones make
 some serious sparks, very cool stuff.

 --R



 On 5/18/13 1:27 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Really? Are u pulling my leg?

 Sent from my iPhone

 On May 18, 2013, at 12:09 PM, Rich Thomas richthomas79TD300@**
 constructivity.net richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

  There is an attachment that has an abrasive cutoff wheel instead of the
 bar and chain.  Get that and yer good ta go.  Or steal one off a fire truck.

 --R


 On 5/18/13 11:37 AM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Can I use a chain saw to cut up cars at a junkyard instead of my
 cordless sawzall?

 Sent from my iPhone


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