Actually, removing the hood is serious overkill.
Open the hood all the way, and remove all the remnants of the old pad.
You will need some 3M adhesive remover to get the last of it. If
someone has used Liquid Nails or something similar, you will have a job
on your hands as it really needs to
On Apr 2, 2006, at 5:28 PM, Rick Knoble wrote:
'cuz diesels don't have carbs
Yabbut they have an air intake. You don't want to just dump a huge
amount of water in, bring it up a little at a time at about 1500-1700
rpm. I have used my pressure sprayer with variable nozzle.
Kinda
Thanks Joe -
You're right - it's the '91 300D I'm working on. Thanks for the *great*
suggestion!
;-)
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/w
archer wrote:
Marshall
---
In a previous article about Italian tuneups you wrote:
...The chain stretch should be below 5 degrees or so, the valves
should be properly adjusted, the air and fuel filters should be verifiably
clean, and there should be cle
archer wrote:
Steve Auto Clinics in Zambia have a long and seemingly thorough
discussion
of EGT versus engine life:
http://www.steves.co.za/Engine_Protection_Units_1.html
From reading it I get the impression that the typical Italian Tuneup
might
be somewhat risky.
I've NEVER heard of an unmo
Mitch Haley wrote:
John Robbins wrote:
The current plan is to use a stepper motor to drive a simple ball
valve... we'll see how well that works though ;)
Radio control models have a broad variety of rotating servos that
seek a position on command. Prices start under $10 and go up over
$100. S
On 4/2/06 11:48 AM, "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Yep, I met George M at a MBCA function (he was the local President) at
> Georges home in Oak Ridge.
WHATEVER YOU DO..
Don't ask George what you should carry for spares in your diesel car.
--
+--
GG
1997 SL500
Jim Cathey wrote:
The current plan is to use a stepper motor to drive a simple ball
valve... we'll see how well that works though ;)
How about using a common GM (or whatever) heater valve? Has a lever
coming off of it and is _very_ easy to move. Probably pretty cheap
too. I took one off o
On Apr 2, 2006, at 1:34 PM, Rick Knoble wrote:
I remember this trick for gas cars, pouring water into the
carburetor. I
didn't realize you could do it with diesels too.
Why not?
'cuz diesels don't have carbs
Kinda wondered about the
effect on the turbo...
You guys worry about tur
Jim Cathey wrote:
As I mentioned earlier, the control for them is not strange at all.
Just a PWM signal in the sub-Hz range, at 1A (or whatever) 12V.
< snip >
That is the beauty of the monovalve. It's easy to drive and seems to
work pretty well. You'd need a reliable source of them, however
archer wrote:
Steve Auto Clinics in Zambia have a long and seemingly thorough discussion
of EGT versus engine life:
http://www.steves.co.za/Engine_Protection_Units_1.html
From reading it I get the impression that the typical Italian Tuneup might
be somewhat risky.
I've NEVER heard of an unmo
On Apr 2, 2006, at 2:04 PM, archer wrote:
As I understand it, the water temperature is the guideline when
going up a
mountain grade under full load. If the water temperature is gradually
raised to the same value while driving in flat country, wouldn't the
combustion chamber temperature be th
On Apr 2, 2006, at 1:34 PM, Rick Knoble wrote:
I remember this trick for gas cars, pouring water into the
carburetor. I
didn't realize you could do it with diesels too.
Why not?
Kinda wondered about the
effect on the turbo...
Rick Knoble
You guys worry abou
I assume you're referring to your '91 124, Larry. Easy way to align
the pad prior to gluing is to cut a piece of approx nominal 1x2" to
36" long, and cut both ends to a blunt chisel shape. This will allow
you to wedge the pad front to back along the centerline of the hood
and get it properly pos
As I understand it, the water temperature is the guideline when going
up a
mountain grade under full load. If the water temperature is gradually
raised to the same value while driving in flat country, wouldn't the
combustion chamber temperature be the same?
No, there's a heck of a multiplier op
archer wrote:
As I understand it, the water temperature is the guideline when going up a
mountain grade under full load. If the water temperature is gradually
raised to the same value while driving in flat country, wouldn't the
combustion chamber temperature be the same?
The coolant temp wil
Marshall Booth wrote:
When working perfectly (as designed) the instrument cluster illumination
of 123/126s is considered inadequate by many (maybe most) Americans. I
am NOT among them. I turn the dimmer down slightly in 123s and somewhat
more in 201/124s so that the speedometer and other gauge
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
If
programs need to be cut how about cutting the funds to artists who portray
Christ in feces? or fund studies of cows farting - excuse me, cow
flatulence - or any of a thousand other pet projects the govt likes to throw
money at?? Sorry - that rant was dragged out of
Thanks to all who replied to my question about installing a heatshield.
Is the 3M "Spray" Super Trim Adhesive as strong as the stuff in the tube?
I bet the spray is much easier to apply evenly -
Of course, I'm a big fan of Liquid Nails Construction Adhesive. It even
works as body putty/filler
archer wrote:
I once suggested putting just enough cardboard in front of the radiator to
hold the water temperature, and thereby the engine temperature, at a
specific value while driving in flat country at a given speed.
Since driving up a mountain grade with the engine under maximum stress i
As I understand it, the water temperature is the guideline when going
up a
mountain grade under full load. If the water temperature is gradually
raised to the same value while driving in flat country, wouldn't the
combustion chamber temperature be the same?
No, there's a heck of a multiplier o
When working perfectly (as designed) the instrument cluster
illumination
of 123/126s is considered inadequate by many (maybe most) Americans. I
am NOT among them.
The only one I consider inadequate is the 123, in that I can't read
the trip odometer at night. Otherwise it's perfectly satisfacto
I seem to remember "Liquid Nails" as the sticky of choice. DO NOT USE
"REAL NAILS"
Hah! As far as I'm concerned, the only "Liquid Nails" are what
come out of my Millermatic 175 welder! And no, don't use them there.
I echo what was said earlier. Put hood vertical and cover the engine
and fen
On Sun, 2 Apr 2006 13:23:31 -0400, you wrote:
>Howdy -
>My hood heat shield is falling apart and starting to drop down. Is the best
>way to replace it (properly) to remove the engine lid and lay it upside down
>while the adhesive dries? Rusty has them for ~$60. BTW.
>
>I assume the 3M Yellow W
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Howdy -
My hood heat shield is falling apart and starting to drop down. Is the best
way to replace it (properly) to remove the engine lid and lay it upside down
while the adhesive dries? Rusty has them for ~$60. BTW.
I assume the 3M Yellow Weatherstrip Adhesive is t
On Sun, 2 Apr 2006 12:48:30 -0400, you wrote:
>Yep, I met George M at a MBCA function (he was the local President) at
>Georges home in Oak Ridge. It's a gorgeous part of the country, BTW and the
>people are some of the nicest and friendliest you'll ever come across.
>
Oak Ridge isw one of the
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Howdy -
While getting a order ready to place with Rusty I came across the Bentley
Handbook with this description:<< Note:
Owners Bible - This book is an E-Class buyer's guide,
maintenance handbook and technical reference source all in one. It is full
of tec
John W. Reames III wrote:
I found that the bulbs themselves get dimmer over time; apparently the
inside of the bulb darkens (from boiled-off filament?)..replaceing the
bulbs themselves (with the PROPER bulbs from Rusty) is the best fix and
keeps all functionality
When working perfectly (as de
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Also, the Owners manual states, the car should not be put in neutral and
allowed to coast - they infer some kind of damage will occur. I;ll have to
re-read that section to get the exact wording but will putting the car in N
and coasting cause a problem? I believe the
Pyrometers were the gold standard for preventing engine
damage back then. I wonder if anyone on the group has a pyrometer
installed
on their MB?
Gerry Archer
Oh yeah. Some of these guys are true hot-rodders and yes they have
pyrometers installed. Dave M. comes to mind
http://www.buymbp
Larry,
Your rant makes sense to me and is EXACTLY the reason that you need to
legislate lobbyists out of existence!! We no longer allow lobbying in
Canada. It is illegal. No corporation or union or individual can give
more than $3700 to a political type.
We also have NO VETO power for our Pr
Hi Werner,
I assume you're staying busy visiting with your out of town relations - hope
all is well & everyone is having fun!.
I remembered to photograph the underbody shields for Aaron and others on the
list - Alex Chamberlin has posted them so they're be available to all.
I took your advic
Archer wrote:
I once suggested putting just enough cardboard in front of the
radiator to
hold the water temperature, and thereby the engine temperature, at a
specific value while driving in flat country at a given speed.
Jim Cathey wrote:
The temperature you're aiming to raise is that inside
carbon build-up can be minimized. Pouring water into the intake of a
running engine also gets rid of carbon, possibly even more
effectively than beating the crap out of your car on flat ground.
I remember this trick for gas cars, pouring water into the carburetor. I
didn't realize you could do
Howdy -
My hood heat shield is falling apart and starting to drop down. Is the best
way to replace it (properly) to remove the engine lid and lay it upside down
while the adhesive dries? Rusty has them for ~$60. BTW.
I assume the 3M Yellow Weatherstrip Adhesive is the preferred glue?
Sincer
Howdy -
While getting a order ready to place with Rusty I came across the Bentley
Handbook with this description:<< Note:
Owners Bible - This book is an E-Class buyer's guide,
maintenance handbook and technical reference source all in one. It is full
of tech tips, service hints and s
Also, the Owners manual states, the car should not be put in neutral and
allowed to coast - they infer some kind of damage will occur. I;ll have to
re-read that section to get the exact wording but will putting the car in N
and coasting cause a problem? I believe the trans would still be turni
That's one of them - I also bought some metric socket head cap screws as
well as some SAE sizes. I think I'm up to 5 or 6 of those storage boxes
pre-filled with various fasteners. I'm restoring a '67 MGB and bought a
supply to have on hand for it also. The metrics have been invaluable for
th
Yep, I met George M at a MBCA function (he was the local President) at
Georges home in Oak Ridge. It's a gorgeous part of the country, BTW and the
people are some of the nicest and friendliest you'll ever come across.
Don't recall any MB specific recyclers, etc. - but a drive thru the Smokey
no, thats WAY out of control.
Sunil Hari wrote:
That car went for nearly $6k. Is this normal? I mean, I thought I was the
only guy on the planet that really liked that green/green color combo.
ebay item 4625892934.
--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
__
The trucking industry has a large and very effective lobby in place -
that's the primary reason the lower sulfur diesel has not been mandated in
the US - which would allow more diesel makers to sell diesel cars in the US.
In order for the newest diesel technology to work its best, the lowest
you dont have to sign off, you only have to set your delivery to hold.
Craig McCluskey wrote:
So I think I'd better sign off the list (or I'll come back to 700 - 1000
unread emails!).
Anyone in the vicinity? Or better yet, any good junk yards in the
vicinity?
Thanks,
Craig
___
On Apr 2, 2006, at 11:35 AM, archer wrote:
I once suggested putting just enough cardboard in front of the
radiator to
hold the water temperature, and thereby the engine temperature, at a
specific value while driving in flat country at a given speed.
Bad idea, real bad but it is your
I once suggested putting just enough cardboard in front of the
radiator to
hold the water temperature, and thereby the engine temperature, at a
specific value while driving in flat country at a given speed.
The temperature you're aiming to raise is that inside the cylinder,
to the point where i
It is nice that there are alternatives and I agree that the ACC2
systems
are complicated and expensive to fix. Here comes the BUT: They
really aren't that bad a system.
I have heard before that they work well and that the only real
problem is when they break. The VDO system does give you a
On Apr 2, 2006, at 6:06 AM, Zoltan Finks wrote:
how - with Italian-ness in mind - do I know when to shift?
There are littl marks on the face of your speedo. 1= top oft of
first, 2= top of second, 3= top of third. Shift before these points.
You really can't over-rev if the governor is functionin
In a message dated 4/1/2006 4:25:54 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Or you could wait for my senior design project to finish ;) Its a
> replacement similar to the Unwired tools, but should be about half the
> price ($350).
If you can DIY for only as little as hal
Got the PIC, vac valves, and software. Still working on the coolant
valve... I don't like the monovalve since the control could be
strange, and if you can't get a used one, they are pretty expensive
new.
As I mentioned earlier, the control for them is not strange at all.
Just a PWM signal in
The current plan is to use a stepper motor to drive a simple ball
valve... we'll see how well that works though ;)
Do not such valves get pretty stiff over time? That would be
my worry about such an approach. You'd really want a geared
motor to make sure you could get its attention. That is
I made one long non-stop run in the 300D a few years back (Hollywood
Florida to the Georgia border) without stoppping -- something like 500
miles or so. Never again, I could barely walk because my knees started
We made lots of stops in the 240D, some of them even at gas stations,
but not a one
I found that the bulbs themselves get dimmer over time; apparently the
inside of the bulb darkens (from boiled-off filament?)..replaceing the
bulbs themselves (with the PROPER bulbs from Rusty) is the best fix and
keeps all functionality
-j.
Aren't trucks the major cause of pollution on the roadways? Don't they
currently have virtually no emissions controls? Meanwhile, there are 5
states where you cannot buy a diesel car (even with so many emissions
controls that you can't see the engine through them) because of "pollution
issues"
isn't that george murphy country?
On 4/1/06, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> So I think I'd better sign off the list (or I'll come back to 700 - 1000
> unread emails!).
>
> Anyone in the vicinity? Or better yet, any good junk yards in the
> vicinity?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
> Craig
>
> __
I made one long non-stop run in the 300D a few years back (Hollywood
Florida to the Georgia border) without stoppping -- something like 500
miles or so. Never again, I could barely walk because my knees started
to swell and get stiff. I also had the flu, so that didn't help
either, I guess.
Michael.
I'm interested in the steering gearbox from the 300SD... W116
body? Mine is getting a little loose after 347,000 miles.. How
much???
Thanks in advance,
Chuck
Phoenix AZ
1980 300SD
1986 16V
On Apr 2, 2006, at 6:55 AM, John Berryman wrote:
On Mar 13, 2006, at 3:46
On Mar 13, 2006, at 3:46 AM, michael smith wrote:
If anybody needs I have a set of used front brake calipers for the
same car as well as 2 new right calipers, new rear brake pads, spare
starter, alternator, radiators for 450SEL and 280SE, tons of
interior parts and rims...300D and 300SD injecto
Mitch Haley wrote:
John Berryman wrote:
I believe the tanks hold 14.5gal so you kinda did run out.
I'm thinking a 190D holds something like that.
190E 2.3-16 is more like 19 gal, I'm wondering if
there's any good reason not to use it when I stick
the turbo engine in that chassis. 5 sp trann
On Apr 2, 2006, at 9:33 AM, Mitch Haley wrote:
I'm thinking a 190D holds something like that.
190E 2.3-16 is more like 19 gal, I'm wondering if
there's any good reason not to use it when I stick
the turbo engine in that chassis. 5 sp tranny, turbo
2.5, 2.65 rear end, 19 gallon tank, might add u
John Berryman wrote:
> I believe the tanks hold 14.5gal so you kinda did run out.
I'm thinking a 190D holds something like that.
190E 2.3-16 is more like 19 gal, I'm wondering if
there's any good reason not to use it when I stick
the turbo engine in that chassis. 5 sp tranny, turbo
2.5, 2.65 rea
Zoltan Finks wrote:
This leads into another question I've had: On flat ground, what is the rpm
that I should shift at? As you know, I do not have a tach, so the question
becomes, how - with Italian-ness in mind - do I know when to shift? (as I
write this, I think that all those of Italian descen
John Robbins wrote:
> The current plan is to use a stepper motor to drive a simple ball
> valve... we'll see how well that works though ;)
Radio control models have a broad variety of rotating servos that
seek a position on command. Prices start under $10 and go up over
$100. Somewhere I have pla
That car went for nearly $6k. Is this normal? I mean, I thought I was the
only guy on the planet that really liked that green/green color combo.
ebay item 4625892934.
--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
Brian-is yours a stick? On my automatic there are max shift marks on the
speedo-I shift mine from S-D about 45 or 50. Some would say you really
can't over rev a diesel. (My retired truck driver father always says
that.) I find that doing a Italian tune up on the 240D is relatively
easy-just run it
On Apr 2, 2006, at 6:06 AM, Zoltan Finks wrote:
how - with Italian-ness in mind - do I know when to shift?
There are littl marks on the face of your speedo. 1= top oft of
first, 2= top of second, 3= top of third. Shift before these points.
You really can't over-rev if the governor is fun
So it sounds like I'm doing well by being banshee man in the flat city. But
it would be better if I had some hills to flog on. The thing must have LOVED
our trip from AZ to MN - with the rockies and all. I spent a lot of time
floor-boarded just to try to keep as close to 60 mph as possible.
This l
Bob Rentfro wrote:
I'm interestedI'll be hot soon.
Dunno if I'll make it in time for the Phoenix summer to kick in!! When
I get a few working PCB's I'll be sure to let you and OK Don know!
John
Jim Cathey wrote:
If you can DIY for only as little as half the commercial price then
the commercial price is probably pretty reasonable! You could probably
do very well with a PIC (or some such) and a monovalve and vacuum valve
array out of a later car. And a tiny amount of software of course!
OK Don wrote:
I have been wondering what the status of your project was - even
visited the project's web site last week! Thanks for bringing back to
our attention.
Which website have you been looking at? If its the
www.ece.msstate.edu/etc/etc/ site, that is horribly out of date as the
group
Jim Cathey wrote:
The bank of 4 (or is it 5) that's in the later VDO ACC system
comes to mind. Junkyards are full of them.
Thought about that when I was trying to source valves last semester
(that was surprisingly hard... as most valves are in the $60+ range!!)
Haven't gotten around to makin
On Sat, 1 Apr 2006 21:15:27 -0600 "Rick Knoble" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> I don't think this got posted...
> http://cbs13.com/topstories/local_story_077001519.html
It did. Last week.
Craig
On Sat, 1 Apr 2006 21:38:58 -0600 "LT Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Don't folks come back from there no longer needing a nitelight?
No, we do that kind of stuff right here in Los Alamos (as I really did
this past week).
Craig
The big line has passed - but there's a smaller one coming up, then an
isolated cell behind that.
They are blowing tree stuff all over my cars!
We got a whopping 0.2 inches of rain out the storms so far!
On 4/1/06, Bob Rentfro <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hang on to your wigs and hats!
>
> Bob Ren
- Original Message -
From: "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Contact! -- sever T-storms, no sirens yet.
--
Do you still go down in storm cellars during tornado prone weather?
Gerry Archer
> ---Original Message---
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] My friend the Italian Tuneup
> Sent: 02 Apr '06 02:59
>
> How do those of us who don't live near mountains accomplish this?
Head towards the nearest mountains.
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD
Hang on to your wigs and hats!
Bob Rentfro
- Original Message -
From: "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2006 9:00 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Inclement weather
Contact! -- sever T-storms, no sirens yet.
On 4/1/06
Contact! -- sever T-storms, no sirens yet.
On 4/1/06, LT Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Keep it down there, then, dude.
>
> On 4/1/06, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > 23 miles and counting --
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D 243K, Rattled
'87 300SDL 290K, Limo Lite, or blue car
You wrote:>
How do those of us who don't live near mountains accomplish this?
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlis
I'm interestedI'll be hot soon.
Bob Rentfro
supposed to be 85 next week
- Original Message -
From: "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 10:03 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] ACC II servo woes
Yes - I might be interest
If the spark can jump a 1/8" air gap, it can jump through a 1/1000" layer of
anything. When I was young and foolish, I used the high voltage lead from an
old color tube TV set to cut shapes from window glass. Once you get the
spark going, even glass won't stop it.
-Dave Walton
94S350, 99E300
On 4
On Apr 1, 2006, at 6:25 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:
For the cars that accepted both the Chrysler and VDO ACC systems
(107 & 123 but what else?)
116s
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
Don't folks come back from there no longer needing a nitelight?
On 4/1/06, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> So I think I'd better sign off the list (or I'll come back to 700 - 1000
> unread emails!).
>
> Anyone in the vicinity? Or better yet, any good junk yards in the
> vicinity?
>
On Apr 1, 2006, at 6:07 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:
which is a more important element of the Italian Tune-up: the
RPMs or
the acceleration?
Revving out on flat ground won't do a lot. The engine needs to be
under load at higher revs not actually able to run up against the
governor. This is wh
Keep it down there, then, dude.
On 4/1/06, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> 23 miles and counting --
>
> On 4/1/06, LT Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > The weather forecast for tomorrow in west-central Iowa is "ugly, with
> > occasional uglier."
> >
> > On 4/1/06, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
23 miles and counting --
On 4/1/06, LT Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The weather forecast for tomorrow in west-central Iowa is "ugly, with
> occasional uglier."
>
> On 4/1/06, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Yup - 65 miles out and closing --
> >
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D
On Apr 1, 2006, at 5:55 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:
Last week when I thought I'd run it out of fuel it took 14gal so
I'm thinking I've finally gotten to around 40mpg.
I believe the tanks hold 14.5gal so you kinda did run out. Is yours
a 2.2 5spd? We had a 1984 that got high 30s and up to 41m
Alex Chamberlain wrote:
On 3/31/06, archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I seem to remember a previous discussion where it was said that if there
was
a pump in the back of the transmission, the car could be towed without
disconnecting the driveshaft. Some versions of MB transmissions had pumps
in
On 4/1/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> You wrote:< to run up against the
> governor.>>
>
> How do those of us who don't live near mountains accomplish this?
>
It's Saturday night! Call four of your biggest friends and invite them out
for an evening of drag-racing kids in soup
On 3/31/06, archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I seem to remember a previous discussion where it was said that if there
> was
> a pump in the back of the transmission, the car could be towed without
> disconnecting the driveshaft. Some versions of MB transmissions had pumps
> in the back as wel
Yup - 65 miles out and closing --
On 4/1/06, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Looks like you guys in Oklahoma and Kansas are in for it tonight, with
> tornado watches and warnings already published.
>
> (see http://www.spc.noaa.gov/products/wwa/index.html)
>
>
> Craig
--
OK Don, KD5NR
I don't think this got posted...
http://cbs13.com/topstories/local_story_077001519.html
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sun Apr 02 03:18:18 2006
Received: from smtpauth07.mail.atl.earthlink.net ([209.86.89.67])
by server5.arterytc5.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1F
I have no observations, not having any '87 panels to compare to, but I've
posted the pictures here for the enlightenment and contemplation of all:
http://www.w124diesel.net/91bellypans/
Larry, yes, the issue is entirely one of price. The "official" set for the
'87 300D costs about twice as much
The weather forecast for tomorrow in west-central Iowa is "ugly, with
occasional uglier."
On 4/1/06, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Yup - 65 miles out and closing --
>
> On 4/1/06, Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Looks like you guys in Oklahoma and Kansas are in for it tonigh
So I think I'd better sign off the list (or I'll come back to 700 - 1000
unread emails!).
Anyone in the vicinity? Or better yet, any good junk yards in the
vicinity?
Thanks,
Craig
Looks like you guys in Oklahoma and Kansas are in for it tonight, with
tornado watches and warnings already published.
(see http://www.spc.noaa.gov/products/wwa/index.html)
Craig
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