I've used them.And do use them still. But only in conjunction with good
jackstands just in case the tin ramp were to buckle for who knows what
reason.
Mike
- Original Message -
From: David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent:
Where do you live and what is the current temperature?
My VW refused to start at work on Monday at lunchtime (first and only
failure for that car). I had filled up with a 50/50 blend on Saturday and
hadn't added any PowerService fuel conditioner. Fixed that quickly with a
walk to the
I think the head finally let go on my 67 300D -- suddenly I'm adding
coolant and I have a condensation trail on very cold mornings for a
while.
I do have some oil in the expansion tank, too -- will check for cold
pressure tomorrow (this has not been a problem yet), but I suspect I'm
going to
I LIVE IN Toledo Ohio it is about 9f now. I will try some Power Service fuel
conditioner like you did. I hope I can find it and that it will work for me
to!
Thanks
Bruce Sandy
KB8DIL
1984 300D (The Beauty)
1985 300SD (The Beast)
1993 Dodge 1 ton 4x4 Dually diesel (TheBoss!)
-Original
WalMart carries it. Probably KMart and the local auto parts stores. It is in
a white jug. I use it year round.
On 2/3/07, Bruce Lulfs [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I LIVE IN Toledo Ohio it is about 9f now. I will try some Power Service
fuel
conditioner like you did. I hope I can find it and that it
Bruce Lulfs wrote:
All 3 of my diesels will not start. I used to get my fuel as a truck stop
all the time but did not do so this year. I never had any trouble before.
All turn over just fine but will not even try to start.
I got fuel for all 3 at the same place I wonder if that could be the
Hi Glenn,
I've cc'd the list...
I agree, I own a set of jackstands but according to the news it'll struggle to
get into the 20s this week so hydralic jacks are pretty much out I was
thinking the ramp would be good for lifting, then put my jackstand underneith
to actually hold the thing
I'm thinking to get a set of those drive up ramps for stuff like this.
Anybody use 'em?
I do. I have two sets, old green ones that are stamped in shape,
as opposed to welded-up ones. I always felt safer under the stamped
ones since they looked to me as being less likely to buckle suddenly,
as
David Brodbeck wrote:
Even my '89 VW Cabriolet has a note in the owner's manual to avoid high
RPM until the oil temperature is over 50 C, which corresponds to the
bottom peg on the oil temperature gauge. I seem to recall hearing that
some cars had a three-state temperature light that would
Curt Raymond wrote:
Luckier actually, one of the hoses to the cooler was DISCONNECTED.
Could this have been a hose that was unplugged so they flushed the tranny,
and then not clamped down properly?
Euan wrote:
Hi there folks
What parts of my 300TD wiper assembly are accessible for lubrication?
My new-ish wipers (MB arms and blades) sweep in a silky smooth fashion
when first started, but if left to run continuously or intermittently,
they soon develop a shuddering action. The shuddering
Marshall,
The original post states The shuddering persists when both wipers are
lifted off the windscreen.
In other words, this is something other than the blades chattering across
the glass. I suspect something in the mechanism is worn out.
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
An annoying slap as the arm moves back up on the passenger side is a
loose wiper blade -- I've had this occur on both cars. The riveted
joints in the little bow springs wear and allow the whole blade to lean
over, and the combination of pressure and motion causes the blade to
flop over to the
Or bad, new in the box.
Lubricate the hardened sliding pin with a couple drops of transmission
fluid (its under the small cover on the arm). If this cures the
problem, even for a while, you need to clean and lube it properly. If
it does not change things, the box is bad.
I have found that
IIRC, in a thread about shipping parts, Kaleb said he shipped with just a
tag, no boxing.
Was that correct and was it UPS? I know I got a Ford gas tank with only
enough cardboard for addresses, also wheels and tires.
Thanks for any input.
Harry
Euan wrote:
Hi there folks
What parts of my 300TD wiper assembly are accessible for lubrication?
My new-ish wipers (MB arms and blades) sweep in a silky smooth fashion
when first started, but if left to run continuously or intermittently,
they soon develop a shuddering action. The shuddering
I rec'd a muffler via UPS which was taped and bubbled wrapper (mostly on the
ends) and there were no problems that I know of.
It must be something difficult to damage though so it won't have a box to
absorb hits.
What are you shipping?
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
Maybe a drive shaft, I removed mine yesterday and the U joint has a cracked
bearing cup. So if the two ends were wired together so as not to separate,
it should go okay?
Harry
On 2/4/07, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I rec'd a muffler via UPS which was taped and bubbled wrapper (mostly on
Speaking of M1...
I was just at a couple Wal-marts and I see one of them now has a M1 10-40
for high mileage engines. What do we think of this stuff?
Levi
On 2/2/07, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Christopher McCann wrote:
http://www.svmgcc.org/tech_tips/oil_is_killing.htm
On Sun, 4 Feb 2007, LarryT wrote:
I rec'd a muffler via UPS which was taped and bubbled wrapper (mostly on the
ends) and there were no problems that I know of.
It must be something difficult to damage though so it won't have a box to
absorb hits.
I've gotten more than one this way; the
Thanks John
Was all of this UPS? It sounds like shipping a drive shaft without boxing
is a go.
Harry
On 2/4/07, John W. Reames III [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
On Sun, 4 Feb 2007, LarryT wrote:
I rec'd a muffler via UPS which was taped and bubbled wrapper (mostly on
the
ends) and there were
These cars simply do not last like those from the 50s. ;)
On 2/3/07, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I think the head finally let go on my 67 300D -- suddenly I'm adding
coolant and I have a condensation trail on very cold mornings for a
while.
I do have some oil in the expansion
What effect will the condition of the glow plugs have on cold weather
starting?
On 2/3/07, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Bruce Lulfs wrote:
All 3 of my diesels will not start. I used to get my fuel as a truck
stop
all the time but did not do so this year. I never had any trouble
It is - you can ship just about any bulk item but they charge a little more.
UPS has some rules that you must follow when attaching a shipping label. You
can research on UPS.com or call your local office.
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL
Two years ago when mine got bad in the 240D it wouldn't start much below 30F
and that was with about 50% No. 1 fuel. Two were completely bad and one
was barely heating. After four new glow plugs, it stared using #2 as low as
7F with no block heater.
FWIW.
Dwight
Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
1979
Sorry to hear about your head problem, but I look forward to the education
we will get from your experience.
How did the cold pressure test turn out?
Thanks
Harry
On 2/4/07, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
These cars simply do not last like those from the 50s. ;)
On 2/3/07,
A Mercedes engine in good shape with a couple of burned out glow plugs will
start in the summer but 2 or more burned out glow plugs will make the car
impossible to start in cold weather. It will seem to almost catch but the
remaining cylinders just are not providing enough HP to keep the engine
Bring your jack in the house the night before so it is warm. Jack the car
up, put it on stands and take the jack back inside while you work.
Mike
- Original Message -
From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Glenn M. Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Diesel List
mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent:
Or any later ones -- I think the problem has been fixed in the updated
heads.
Mine was iffy when I bought it about 6 years ago, I'm not surprised,
just annoyed. It has 260,000 miles on it, on the original head, and I
don't know how well it was taken care of before I got it (I'm fourth or
hi!
after you've checked and cleaned the relevant fuses and their
connections, make sure you do the same with the ground cable that runs
from the engine to the firewall.
i'm not positive about this because your '98 has the later interior
and instrumentation, but if that doesn't get it,
The 87's are an issue and the cracks tend to just appear regardless of
maintenance.
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 10:39 AM
To: Mercedes
Thanks Tom
Here are the UPS guidelines for bare metal shipping.
Packing:
Please tape corrugated cardboard pieces to all sharp or protruding edges for
protection.
Cover the other surfaces of the item as needed.
Labeling:
Please tape your address label securely on the flattest surface of the
Years ago, I had a steel jack stand fail. I owned a pair of stands
manufactured out of tube steel. I put my 81 Pontiac Bonneville diesel on the
stands to check the brakes I watched the one on the left side slowly
collapse. The pin that was used to adjust the stand height slowly ripped
through the
No problem.
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Harry Watkins
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 11:00 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Kaleb or anyone, a shipping question
Do the Mercedes block heaters have any sort of thermostatic control or are
they always on when plugged in? Also, is there a chart of time required to
heat up an engine based on outside temps?
Steve
Stay away from DHL. when shipping bare parts. If you are in a position
to negotiate a volume discount, DHL will give you the cheapest
contract rates. They will also give you the most grief on a regular
basis, however.
FedEx is usually he next cheapest.
UPS is unionized, but their driver
Do the Mercedes block heaters have any sort of thermostatic control or
are
they always on when plugged in? Also, is there a chart of time
required to
heat up an engine based on outside temps?
Plugged-in == heat. Simple. I find that between 1-2 hours gives you
everything that can be gotten,
temp -10F and told 1 1/2 hours plug in time for my 81 300 TD to start
almost instantly
bill
Jim Cathey wrote:
Do the Mercedes block heaters have any sort of thermostatic control or
are
they always on when plugged in? Also, is there a chart of time
required to
heat up an engine based on
I tried mine on the Kill-a-watt and it seems to only be around 375 watts.
What I'm curious about is if everyone is just popping the hood a couple
times a day to plug/unplug, or if anyone's figured out a better way? I
think I could fit the plug out at either the front or rear of the hood
without
Levi,
On my '80 300SD, I snaked the plug out thru/near the right headlight
assembly and kept it behind the override bumper. The plug has a
cover so that it could be kept dry. Never needed to open hood.
Before I got the block heater, I used to put a 60W bulb next to the
injector and a
Thanks. I will look for a timer so that I don't just run it all night. I
only need it for maybe 2 weeks a year and have not invested any time in
finding out about it. I should ask my sister about them as she lives in
Fairbanks and will plug her car in all over town.
-Original Message-
When I used one, I rigged up the extension cord so that when I backed up the
cord pulled tight unplugged itself.
Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Levi Smith
Sent: Sunday, February 04,
andrew strasfogel wrote:
These cars simply do not last like those from the 50s. ;)
The cars from the fifties required 2-5X the maintenance that today's
cars do. On a W180 220S there were more than 30 grease fitting that had
to be greased every 3kmi (and that didn't include the grease
Hew wide is the base of these metal ramps? I'm wondering about the
relatice safety of a stack of 2X12's ---
I do. I have two sets, old green ones that are stamped in shape,
as opposed to welded-up ones. I always felt safer under the stamped
ones since they looked to me as being less likely
I tried mine on the Kill-a-watt and it seems to only be around 375
watts.
Just about right.
What I'm curious about is if everyone is just popping the hood a couple
times a day to plug/unplug, or if anyone's figured out a better way?
My plug snakes through in front of the radiator, and tucks
Hew wide is the base of these metal ramps? I'm wondering about the
relatice safety of a stack of 2X12's ---
Probably about a foot. 2x12's will work well too, but you
must take care they won't skid apart. Some nails and some
wood pieces to make a stepped block would work well. For
even better
andrew strasfogel wrote:
What effect will the condition of the glow plugs have on cold weather
starting?
Plugs that measure correctly and that aren't encased in carbon should
start the car as well a new plugs. As plugs age, they will fatigue, but
that is reflected in the current flow
Steve Bailey wrote:
Do the Mercedes block heaters have any sort of thermostatic control or are
they always on when plugged in? Also, is there a chart of time required to
heat up an engine based on outside temps?
There is NO control, the block heater runs at full power as long as it's
plugged
I missed the original ?I have shipped driveshafts in priority Mail
tubes. They are free and work well. Tape 2 together if you need length.
Mike
- Original Message -
From: Harry Watkins [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday,
OK Don wrote:
Hew wide is the base of these metal ramps? I'm wondering about the
relatice safety of a stack of 2X12's ---
My cousin has a set he made out of 2x8 or stock, about 16 wide, 4' long.
Very solid. Take a 6' long 2x8, slice it at an angle to make two ramp shaped
boards, full width
Delivery Hopelessly Lost...I can go into detail if need be but I
suggest staying away from them as well.
Mike
- Original Message -
From: dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 1:04 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ]
If the parts you talked of wiring together are completely seperate from the
d'shaft you might want to consider boxing the extra pieces and ship on
their own. If the pieces are still attached to the d'shaft and are just
loose but not broken away from the D'shaft completely I suggest you wire
It's kind of hard to see with everything buttoned up, but when I
pulled the intake from my '87 it was immediately apparent that one
source of coolant loss was the brittle o-ring that makes the seal for
the fuel heater pipe at the head. Mine was visibly leaking with just
a hint of residual
I'll check that -- I'd very much like to avoid doing the head for a
bit, I have to put a roof on the house this summer, plus replace all
the windows
peter
is that you really need to make the professional bets to be
successful. simply put, a professional bet is a bet that your head
makes in opposition to your heart.
the professional bet for me here would be to take the bears in the
super bowl. so many reasons to take them it isn't even funny.
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