Re: [MBZ] Uh oh - fuel leak

2007-02-04 Thread Mike Canfield
I've used them.And do use them still.  But only in conjunction with good 
jackstands just in case the tin ramp were to buckle for who knows what 
reason.


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: David Brodbeck [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 5:31 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Uh oh - fuel leak



Curt Raymond wrote:
Okay, I had to clean the vent on my 240D, where does the vent land on the 
190D?
This car is alot less fun to work on, I could pretty well crawl under my 
240D while it was sitting on the ground...
I'm thinking to get a set of those drive up ramps for stuff like this. 
Anybody use 'em?




I own a set.  I like them a lot.  I use them whenever I'm doing an
under-car job that doesn't require removing the wheels.  Do make sure
you chock the wheels that are on the ground well so the car can't roll
off the ramps on you.  Chock it against rolling in *either* direction.
People have been hurt or killed when cars rolled off the end of ramps.
I like to give the car a good shake once it's situated to make sure it's
not precariously balanced somehow.

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Re: [MBZ] Will not start

2007-02-04 Thread LT Don

Where do you live and what is the current temperature?

My VW refused to start at work on Monday at lunchtime (first and only
failure for that car). I had filled up with a 50/50 blend on Saturday and
hadn't added any PowerService fuel conditioner. Fixed that quickly with a
walk to the neighborhood auto parts store. Temp was -6F, which I am sure
caused the problem.

It is -4F right now and I just fired up the VW and went to the store. Love
that PowerService stuff.

On 2/3/07, Bruce Lulfs [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


All 3 of my diesels will not start. I used to get my fuel as a truck stop
all the time but did not do so this year. I never had any trouble before.
All turn over just fine but will not even try to start.
I got fuel for all 3 at the same place I wonder if that could be the
trouble?
I never put anything in my fuel before and now I wonder what if anything
would help now?
Thanks for any help

Bruce  Sandy
KB8DIL

1984 300D (The Beauty)

1985 300SD (The Beast)

1993 Dodge 1 ton 4x4 Dually diesel (TheBoss!)



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[MBZ] Cracked head?

2007-02-04 Thread Peter Frederick
I think the head finally let go on my 67 300D -- suddenly I'm adding 
coolant and I have a condensation trail on very cold mornings for a 
while.


I do have some oil in the expansion tank, too -- will check for cold 
pressure tomorrow (this has not been a problem yet), but I suspect I'm 
going to have to look for a head.


Sigh.

Peter




Re: [MBZ] Will not start

2007-02-04 Thread Bruce Lulfs
I LIVE IN Toledo Ohio it is about 9f now. I will try some Power Service fuel
conditioner like you did. I hope I can find it and that it will work for me
to!
Thanks

Bruce  Sandy
KB8DIL

1984 300D (The Beauty)

1985 300SD (The Beast)

1993 Dodge 1 ton 4x4 Dually diesel (TheBoss!)
 
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of LT Don
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 7:09 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Will not start

Where do you live and what is the current temperature?

My VW refused to start at work on Monday at lunchtime (first and only
failure for that car). I had filled up with a 50/50 blend on Saturday and
hadn't added any PowerService fuel conditioner. Fixed that quickly with a
walk to the neighborhood auto parts store. Temp was -6F, which I am sure
caused the problem.

It is -4F right now and I just fired up the VW and went to the store. Love
that PowerService stuff.

On 2/3/07, Bruce Lulfs [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 All 3 of my diesels will not start. I used to get my fuel as a truck stop
 all the time but did not do so this year. I never had any trouble before.
 All turn over just fine but will not even try to start.
 I got fuel for all 3 at the same place I wonder if that could be the
 trouble?
 I never put anything in my fuel before and now I wonder what if anything
 would help now?
 Thanks for any help

 Bruce  Sandy
 KB8DIL

 1984 300D (The Beauty)

 1985 300SD (The Beast)

 1993 Dodge 1 ton 4x4 Dually diesel (TheBoss!)



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Re: [MBZ] Will not start

2007-02-04 Thread LT Don

WalMart carries it. Probably KMart and the local auto parts stores. It is in
a white jug. I use it year round.

On 2/3/07, Bruce Lulfs [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


I LIVE IN Toledo Ohio it is about 9f now. I will try some Power Service
fuel
conditioner like you did. I hope I can find it and that it will work for
me
to!
Thanks

Bruce  Sandy
KB8DIL

1984 300D (The Beauty)

1985 300SD (The Beast)

1993 Dodge 1 ton 4x4 Dually diesel (TheBoss!)



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of LT Don
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 7:09 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Will not start

Where do you live and what is the current temperature?

My VW refused to start at work on Monday at lunchtime (first and only
failure for that car). I had filled up with a 50/50 blend on Saturday and
hadn't added any PowerService fuel conditioner. Fixed that quickly with a
walk to the neighborhood auto parts store. Temp was -6F, which I am sure
caused the problem.

It is -4F right now and I just fired up the VW and went to the store. Love
that PowerService stuff.

On 2/3/07, Bruce Lulfs [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 All 3 of my diesels will not start. I used to get my fuel as a truck
stop
 all the time but did not do so this year. I never had any trouble
before.
 All turn over just fine but will not even try to start.
 I got fuel for all 3 at the same place I wonder if that could be the
 trouble?
 I never put anything in my fuel before and now I wonder what if anything
 would help now?
 Thanks for any help

 Bruce  Sandy
 KB8DIL

 1984 300D (The Beauty)

 1985 300SD (The Beast)

 1993 Dodge 1 ton 4x4 Dually diesel (TheBoss!)



 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




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Re: [MBZ] Will not start

2007-02-04 Thread Marshall Booth

Bruce Lulfs wrote:

All 3 of my diesels will not start. I used to get my fuel as a truck stop
all the time but did not do so this year. I never had any trouble before.
All turn over just fine but will not even try to start.
I got fuel for all 3 at the same place I wonder if that could be the
trouble?
I never put anything in my fuel before and now I wonder what if anything
would help now?
Thanks for any help


Adding an anti-gel will do little or NOTHING until it can be circulated 
thru the fuel system. That takes at least 5-10 minutes of engine 
operation. If the fuel line or filter is occluded with ice (from water 
in the fuel) or waxed fuel, the engine won't start so the anti-gel can't 
circulate. Moving the car indoors or pouring hot water over the fuel 
filter will SOMETIMES help and so can directing a hair dryer at the filter.


There hasn't been temps this low in western PA and Ohio in about 10 
years. When it gets this cold I suggest buying premium winterized fuel 
(I've had really good experiences with BP/Amoco diesel) and add a shot 
of a brand name anti-gel to the tank when temps drop below zero. If the 
valves haven't been adjusted in the last 10-15kmi, that can prevent 
starting in cold weather too. Using Mobil 1 oil will lower cold start 
temps about 10 degree and the block heater will allow the engine to 
start at about any temp - UNLESS the fuel has waxed, there is water in 
the fuel or the valves are tight!


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] drive up ramps

2007-02-04 Thread Curt Raymond
Hi Glenn,

I've cc'd the list...

I agree, I own a set of jackstands but according to the news it'll struggle to 
get into the 20s this week so hydralic jacks are pretty much out I was 
thinking the ramp would be good for lifting, then put my jackstand underneith 
to actually hold the thing up...

-Curt

Glenn M. Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Curt,
Don't!  There was a story on the news within the last couple months 
where a fellow was found deceased a couple days later under his car 
since the ramps had collapsed.  I never get under a car without my 
hydraulic jack and jack stands, it's nor worth the risk.  Good luck.

G. M. Brown
Rochester, NY



 
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oh man
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Actually Fred has (had?) an '84 190D like mine that he'd dangled at me for a 
very reasonable price...

I should probably consider getting on the stick and buying it.

-Curt

Date: Sat, 3 Feb 2007 15:22:35 -0500
From: Dwight E. Giles, Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oh man
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List' mercedes@okiebenz.com
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Ugh-sorry to hear that curt.  Maybe you should get that 87 300D in 
Wellesley
Hills. Dwight

Bissell Cove Quahog  Auto Salvage Co
Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
Wickford RI 02852



 
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Date: Sun, 04 Feb 2007 16:11:29 +1300
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Subject: [MBZ] Lubricating wiper mechanism to shuddering wipers
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Hi there folks

What parts of my 300TD wiper assembly are accessible for lubrication?

My new-ish wipers (MB arms and blades) sweep in a silky smooth fashion 
when first started, but if left to run continuously or intermittently, 
they soon develop a shuddering action. The shuddering is not major 

Re: [MBZ] Uh oh - fuel leak

2007-02-04 Thread Jim Cathey

I'm thinking to get a set of those drive up ramps for stuff like this.
Anybody use 'em?


I do.  I have two sets, old green ones that are stamped in shape,
as opposed to welded-up ones.  I always felt safer under the stamped
ones since they looked to me as being less likely to buckle suddenly,
as they weren't dependent on rigid straight sections to begin with.
I expect, but have no proof of, a more gradual failure mechanism.

But a nice jack stand or two underneath in addition is an nice
life preserver.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Pressure vs flow

2007-02-04 Thread Mitch Haley


David Brodbeck wrote:
 Even my '89 VW Cabriolet has a note in the owner's manual to avoid high
 RPM until the oil temperature is over 50 C, which corresponds to the
 bottom peg on the oil temperature gauge.  I seem to recall hearing that
 some cars had a three-state temperature light that would light up blue
 at cold temperatures to remind you to take it easy, but I can't recall
 which ones.
 
 Sometimes I wonder just how high the oil pressure in a Mercedes gets
 after a cold start.  The gauges only go up to 3, of course, so we can't
 really know. 

I believe the pressure relief on a 617 is around 6.5 bar.

Mitch.




Re: [MBZ] Luckiest man in the world!

2007-02-04 Thread Mitch Haley


Curt Raymond wrote:
 
 Luckier actually, one of the hoses to the cooler was DISCONNECTED.

Could this have been a hose that was unplugged so they flushed the tranny,
and then not clamped down properly?



Re: [MBZ] Lubricating wiper mechanism to shuddering wipers

2007-02-04 Thread Marshall Booth

Euan wrote:

Hi there folks

What parts of my 300TD wiper assembly are accessible for lubrication?

My new-ish wipers (MB arms and blades) sweep in a silky smooth fashion 
when first started, but if left to run continuously or intermittently, 
they soon develop a shuddering action. The shuddering is not major but 
it's irritating.


The complete assembly (above the grill) was installed new last year and 
hasn't been altered, bent or twisted, so I'm assuming that the problem 
originates elsewhere in the mechanism. The shuddering persists when both 
wipers are lifted off the windscreen.


Here's the wisdom of Stu Ritter on the subject:

When the wipers are juddering across the windshield, the geometry of the
wiper should be checked. Make sure that the wiper blade is exactly
perpendicular to the windshield. You can bend the wiper arm to insure 
the blades perpendicularity. You can also rebow the wiper arm as they 
loose their spring over time.


As the wiper arms age, they are fighting against the tension spring that
is located at the base of the arm. The arms get flat over time. You can
regain the spring tension by rebowing the arm or re-establishing the
bow (curve) the arm had when it was new. In snow country, I even 
exaggerate the bow abit to strengthen the spring for scrapping snow and 
ice..


Stu
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] Lubricating wiper mechanism to shuddering wipers

2007-02-04 Thread Tom Hargrave
Marshall,

The original post states The shuddering persists when both wipers are
lifted off the windscreen.

In other words, this is something other than the blades chattering across
the glass. I suspect something in the mechanism is worn out.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Marshall Booth
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 8:39 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Lubricating wiper mechanism to shuddering wipers

Euan wrote:
 Hi there folks
 
 What parts of my 300TD wiper assembly are accessible for lubrication?
 
 My new-ish wipers (MB arms and blades) sweep in a silky smooth fashion 
 when first started, but if left to run continuously or intermittently, 
 they soon develop a shuddering action. The shuddering is not major but 
 it's irritating.
 
 The complete assembly (above the grill) was installed new last year and 
 hasn't been altered, bent or twisted, so I'm assuming that the problem 
 originates elsewhere in the mechanism. The shuddering persists when both 
 wipers are lifted off the windscreen.

Here's the wisdom of Stu Ritter on the subject:

When the wipers are juddering across the windshield, the geometry of the
wiper should be checked. Make sure that the wiper blade is exactly
perpendicular to the windshield. You can bend the wiper arm to insure 
the blades perpendicularity. You can also rebow the wiper arm as they 
loose their spring over time.

As the wiper arms age, they are fighting against the tension spring that
is located at the base of the arm. The arms get flat over time. You can
regain the spring tension by rebowing the arm or re-establishing the
bow (curve) the arm had when it was new. In snow country, I even 
exaggerate the bow abit to strengthen the spring for scrapping snow and 
ice..

Stu
-- 
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] Lubricating wiper mechanism to shuddering wipers

2007-02-04 Thread Peter Frederick
An annoying slap as the arm moves back up on the passenger side is a 
loose wiper blade -- I've had this occur on both cars.  The riveted 
joints in the little bow springs wear and allow the whole blade to lean 
over, and the combination of pressure and motion causes the blade to 
flop over to the other side.  Sounds as if someone were slapping the 
windshield.  A new assembly, not just the rubber blade, fixed it.


And, as I have now, there are two lengths for the wiper arm.  I believe 
the original was about an inch longer than the second version, and if 
you get the wrong blade, it will collide with the trim at the sides of 
the windshield and sometimes at the top as well, making for what sounds 
like broken teeth in the gears.  Easily solved by getting the older 
blade assembly with the hole offset differently.  If the arm was 
replaced, it will likely be the new one, but I don't know that for 
sure.


MB has two numbers that I don't remember at the moment (someone will 
surely chime in), but auto parts stores often stock only one blade, and 
it may or may not be correct.  The tip of the blade should be well 
clear of the side trim, not underneath it.


Peter




Re: [MBZ] Lubricating wiper mechanism to shuddering wipers

2007-02-04 Thread Peter Frederick

Or bad, new in the box.

Lubricate the hardened sliding pin with a couple drops of transmission 
fluid (its under the small cover on the arm).  If this cures the 
problem, even for a while, you need to clean and lube it properly.  If 
it does not change things, the box is bad.


I have found that the arm cover can be forced down too far, causing it 
to scrape on the lower housing,  This is quite alarming.  A bit of 
grease and prying up slightly cured it for me.


Peter




[MBZ] Kaleb or anyone, a shipping question

2007-02-04 Thread Harry Watkins

IIRC, in a thread about shipping parts, Kaleb said he shipped with just a
tag, no boxing.

Was that correct and  was it UPS?  I know I got a Ford gas tank with only
enough cardboard for addresses, also wheels and tires.

Thanks for any input.

Harry


Re: [MBZ] Lubricating wiper mechanism to shuddering wipers

2007-02-04 Thread Marshall Booth

Euan wrote:

Hi there folks

What parts of my 300TD wiper assembly are accessible for lubrication?

My new-ish wipers (MB arms and blades) sweep in a silky smooth fashion 
when first started, but if left to run continuously or intermittently, 
they soon develop a shuddering action. The shuddering is not major but 
it's irritating.


The complete assembly (above the grill) was installed new last year and 
hasn't been altered, bent or twisted, so I'm assuming that the problem 
originates elsewhere in the mechanism. The shuddering persists when both 
wipers are lifted off the windscreen.


Any recommendations for lubricant?


I've had the transmission (located under the grill) of an '84 190D wear 
out and it shuddered, clacked, clunked, etc. The ONLY thing that 
provided relief was replacement with a good used one (that cost less 
than $50) that wasn't worn out (the original joints were simply worn out).


Later ('85+) 201 and 124 wiper mechanisms often require lubrication but 
I don't think that's very effective with 123/126 mechanisms which seem 
similar in construction to the early 201 series mechanisms.


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] Kaleb or anyone, a shipping question

2007-02-04 Thread LarryT
I rec'd a muffler via UPS which was taped and bubbled wrapper (mostly on the 
ends) and there were no problems that I know of.


It must be something difficult to damage though so it won't have a box to 
absorb hits.


What are you shipping?
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
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.
- Original Message - 
From: Harry Watkins [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 10:07 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Kaleb or anyone, a shipping question



IIRC, in a thread about shipping parts, Kaleb said he shipped with just a
tag, no boxing.

Was that correct and  was it UPS?  I know I got a Ford gas tank with only
enough cardboard for addresses, also wheels and tires.

Thanks for any input.

Harry
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Re: [MBZ] Kaleb or anyone, a shipping question

2007-02-04 Thread Harry Watkins

Maybe a drive shaft, I removed mine yesterday and the U joint has a cracked
bearing cup.  So if the two ends were wired together so as not to separate,
it should go okay?

Harry


On 2/4/07, LarryT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


I rec'd a muffler via UPS which was taped and bubbled wrapper (mostly on
the
ends) and there were no problems that I know of.

It must be something difficult to damage though so it won't have a box to
absorb hits.

What are you shipping?
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message -
From: Harry Watkins [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 10:07 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Kaleb or anyone, a shipping question


 IIRC, in a thread about shipping parts, Kaleb said he shipped with just
a
 tag, no boxing.

 Was that correct and  was it UPS?  I know I got a Ford gas tank with
only
 enough cardboard for addresses, also wheels and tires.

 Thanks for any input.

 Harry
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Re: [MBZ] Oil is Killing our Cars....comments anyone?...esp. regarding Mobil 1

2007-02-04 Thread Levi Smith

Speaking of M1...
I was just at a couple Wal-marts and I see one of them now has a M1 10-40
for high mileage engines.  What do we think of this stuff?

Levi

On 2/2/07, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Christopher McCann wrote:
 http://www.svmgcc.org/tech_tips/oil_is_killing.htm


Nothing new here. The nits have been arguing about this for years. The
people that seriously lubricate car and truck engines settled this and
make fine oils. Mercedes warned against choosing oil based on API
rating. Use a Mercedes rated oil and it will protect your engine.

Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] Kaleb or anyone, a shipping question

2007-02-04 Thread John W. Reames III
On Sun, 4 Feb 2007, LarryT wrote:

 I rec'd a muffler via UPS which was taped and bubbled wrapper (mostly on the 
 ends) and there were no problems that I know of.
 
 It must be something difficult to damage though so it won't have a box to 
 absorb hits.

I've gotten more than one this way; the ends wraped in the dense foam wrap 
and saran, then saran holding a tag on the muffler body. Heck, I've gotten 
complete exhausts this way. You need to make sure that the ends of the 
pipes arent deformed tho, this seems to happen sometimes.
-.





Re: [MBZ] Kaleb or anyone, a shipping question

2007-02-04 Thread Harry Watkins

Thanks John

Was all of this UPS?  It sounds like shipping a drive shaft without boxing
is a go.

Harry


On 2/4/07, John W. Reames III [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


On Sun, 4 Feb 2007, LarryT wrote:

 I rec'd a muffler via UPS which was taped and bubbled wrapper (mostly on
the
 ends) and there were no problems that I know of.

 It must be something difficult to damage though so it won't have a box
to
 absorb hits.

I've gotten more than one this way; the ends wraped in the dense foam wrap
and saran, then saran holding a tag on the muffler body. Heck, I've gotten
complete exhausts this way. You need to make sure that the ends of the
pipes arent deformed tho, this seems to happen sometimes.
-.



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Re: [MBZ] Cracked head?

2007-02-04 Thread andrew strasfogel

These cars simply do not last like those from the 50s.  ;)

On 2/3/07, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


I think the head finally let go on my 67 300D -- suddenly I'm adding
coolant and I have a condensation trail on very cold mornings for a
while.

I do have some oil in the expansion tank, too -- will check for cold
pressure tomorrow (this has not been a problem yet), but I suspect I'm
going to have to look for a head.

Sigh.

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Will not start

2007-02-04 Thread andrew strasfogel

What effect will the condition of the glow plugs have on cold weather
starting?

On 2/3/07, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Bruce Lulfs wrote:
 All 3 of my diesels will not start. I used to get my fuel as a truck
stop
 all the time but did not do so this year. I never had any trouble
before.
 All turn over just fine but will not even try to start.
 I got fuel for all 3 at the same place I wonder if that could be the
 trouble?
 I never put anything in my fuel before and now I wonder what if anything
 would help now?
 Thanks for any help

Adding an anti-gel will do little or NOTHING until it can be circulated
thru the fuel system. That takes at least 5-10 minutes of engine
operation. If the fuel line or filter is occluded with ice (from water
in the fuel) or waxed fuel, the engine won't start so the anti-gel can't
circulate. Moving the car indoors or pouring hot water over the fuel
filter will SOMETIMES help and so can directing a hair dryer at the
filter.

There hasn't been temps this low in western PA and Ohio in about 10
years. When it gets this cold I suggest buying premium winterized fuel
(I've had really good experiences with BP/Amoco diesel) and add a shot
of a brand name anti-gel to the tank when temps drop below zero. If the
valves haven't been adjusted in the last 10-15kmi, that can prevent
starting in cold weather too. Using Mobil 1 oil will lower cold start
temps about 10 degree and the block heater will allow the engine to
start at about any temp - UNLESS the fuel has waxed, there is water in
the fuel or the valves are tight!

Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] Kaleb or anyone, a shipping question

2007-02-04 Thread Tom Hargrave
It is - you can ship just about any bulk item but they charge a little more.
UPS has some rules that you must follow when attaching a shipping label. You
can research on UPS.com or call your local office.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Harry Watkins
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 10:35 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Kaleb or anyone, a shipping question

Thanks John

Was all of this UPS?  It sounds like shipping a drive shaft without boxing
is a go.

Harry


On 2/4/07, John W. Reames III [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 On Sun, 4 Feb 2007, LarryT wrote:

  I rec'd a muffler via UPS which was taped and bubbled wrapper (mostly on
 the
  ends) and there were no problems that I know of.
 
  It must be something difficult to damage though so it won't have a box
 to
  absorb hits.

 I've gotten more than one this way; the ends wraped in the dense foam wrap
 and saran, then saran holding a tag on the muffler body. Heck, I've gotten
 complete exhausts this way. You need to make sure that the ends of the
 pipes arent deformed tho, this seems to happen sometimes.
 -.



 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Will not start

2007-02-04 Thread Dwight E. Giles, Jr
Two years ago when mine got bad in the 240D it wouldn't start much below 30F
and that was with  about 50% No. 1 fuel.  Two were completely bad and one
was barely heating.  After four new glow plugs, it stared using #2 as low as
7F with no block heater. 
FWIW.
Dwight

Dwight E. Giles, Jr.
1979 240D-250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t 135K miles
Wickford, RI

What effect will the condition of the glow plugs have on cold weather
starting?
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Re: [MBZ] Cracked head?

2007-02-04 Thread Harry Watkins

Sorry to hear about your head problem, but I look forward to the education
we will get from your experience.

How did the cold pressure test turn out?

Thanks

Harry


On 2/4/07, andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


These cars simply do not last like those from the 50s.  ;)

On 2/3/07, Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 I think the head finally let go on my 67 300D -- suddenly I'm adding
 coolant and I have a condensation trail on very cold mornings for a
 while.

 I do have some oil in the expansion tank, too -- will check for cold
 pressure tomorrow (this has not been a problem yet), but I suspect I'm
 going to have to look for a head.

 Sigh.

 Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Will not start

2007-02-04 Thread Tom Hargrave
A Mercedes engine in good shape with a couple of burned out glow plugs will
start in the summer but 2 or more burned out glow plugs will make the car
impossible to start in cold weather. It will seem to almost catch but the
remaining cylinders just are not providing enough HP to keep the engine
running.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 10:38 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Will not start

What effect will the condition of the glow plugs have on cold weather
starting?

On 2/3/07, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Bruce Lulfs wrote:
  All 3 of my diesels will not start. I used to get my fuel as a truck
 stop
  all the time but did not do so this year. I never had any trouble
 before.
  All turn over just fine but will not even try to start.
  I got fuel for all 3 at the same place I wonder if that could be the
  trouble?
  I never put anything in my fuel before and now I wonder what if anything
  would help now?
  Thanks for any help

 Adding an anti-gel will do little or NOTHING until it can be circulated
 thru the fuel system. That takes at least 5-10 minutes of engine
 operation. If the fuel line or filter is occluded with ice (from water
 in the fuel) or waxed fuel, the engine won't start so the anti-gel can't
 circulate. Moving the car indoors or pouring hot water over the fuel
 filter will SOMETIMES help and so can directing a hair dryer at the
 filter.

 There hasn't been temps this low in western PA and Ohio in about 10
 years. When it gets this cold I suggest buying premium winterized fuel
 (I've had really good experiences with BP/Amoco diesel) and add a shot
 of a brand name anti-gel to the tank when temps drop below zero. If the
 valves haven't been adjusted in the last 10-15kmi, that can prevent
 starting in cold weather too. Using Mobil 1 oil will lower cold start
 temps about 10 degree and the block heater will allow the engine to
 start at about any temp - UNLESS the fuel has waxed, there is water in
 the fuel or the valves are tight!

 Marshall
 --
 Marshall Booth Ph.D.
 Ass't Prof. (ret.)
 Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] drive up ramps

2007-02-04 Thread Mike Canfield
Bring your jack in the house the night before so it is warm.  Jack the car 
up, put it on stands and take the jack back inside while you work.


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Glenn M. Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Diesel List 
mercedes@okiebenz.com

Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 9:12 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] drive up ramps



Hi Glenn,

I've cc'd the list...

I agree, I own a set of jackstands but according to the news it'll 
struggle to get into the 20s this week so hydralic jacks are pretty much 
out I was thinking the ramp would be good for lifting, then put my 
jackstand underneith to actually hold the thing up...


-Curt

Glenn M. Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Curt,
Don't!  There was a story on the news within the last couple months
where a fellow was found deceased a couple days later under his car
since the ramps had collapsed.  I never get under a car without my
hydraulic jack and jack stands, it's nor worth the risk.  Good luck.

G. M. Brown
Rochester, NY




-
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Re: [MBZ] Cracked head?

2007-02-04 Thread Peter Frederick
Or any later ones -- I think the problem has been fixed in the updated 
heads.


Mine was iffy when I bought it about 6 years ago, I'm not surprised, 
just annoyed.  It has 260,000 miles on it, on the original head, and I 
don't know how well it was taken care of before I got it (I'm fourth or 
fifth owner).


Just another expensive job, alas.

It's an 87, with the 603 engine, not a 67.

Ain't dyslexia great?

Peter




Re: [MBZ] OT Jeep

2007-02-04 Thread ernest breakfield

hi!

   after you've checked and cleaned the relevant fuses and their 
connections, make sure you do the same with the ground cable that runs 
from the engine to the firewall.
   i'm not positive about this because your '98 has the later interior 
and instrumentation, but if that doesn't get it, there's a sort of a 
ground bus at the back on the instrument panel of the earlier models 
that several XJ colleagues of mine have found needs cleaning up after a 
decade or so,...



cheers!
e

'94 XJ 4.0 (226K miles)


Frederick Moir wrote:

Hi, Gurus, (Guri?)
1998 Jeep Cherokee basic 4 cyl. manual etc. The instrument cluster seems to 
have been invaded by gremlins (AMC joke). The overheat lamp comes on, no actual 
overheat condition, and it will be accompanied by the oil pressure lamp or will 
alternate with the oil light.. The air bag lite also has a random impulse to 
expose itself. I have RTFM and looked on the web, maybe I'm not looking in the 
right places. Hellup!
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Why do my gashog owning friends call for help when it is 30 degrees out?
  




Re: [MBZ] Cracked head?

2007-02-04 Thread Tom Hargrave
The 87's are an issue and the cracks tend to just appear regardless of
maintenance.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 10:39 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cracked head?

Or any later ones -- I think the problem has been fixed in the updated 
heads.

Mine was iffy when I bought it about 6 years ago, I'm not surprised, 
just annoyed.  It has 260,000 miles on it, on the original head, and I 
don't know how well it was taken care of before I got it (I'm fourth or 
fifth owner).

Just another expensive job, alas.

It's an 87, with the 603 engine, not a 67.

Ain't dyslexia great?

Peter


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Re: [MBZ] Kaleb or anyone, a shipping question

2007-02-04 Thread Harry Watkins

Thanks Tom

Here are the UPS guidelines for bare metal shipping.

Packing:
Please tape corrugated cardboard pieces to all sharp or protruding edges for
protection.
Cover the other surfaces of the item as needed.

Labeling:
Please tape your address label securely on the flattest surface of the item
that you are shipping.
Cover the entire label with clear tape.Do not use flying tags (tags that
hang from the item that you are shipping).


On 2/4/07, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


It is - you can ship just about any bulk item but they charge a little
more.
UPS has some rules that you must follow when attaching a shipping label.
You
can research on UPS.com or call your local office.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Harry Watkins
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 10:35 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Kaleb or anyone, a shipping question

Thanks John

Was all of this UPS?  It sounds like shipping a drive shaft without boxing
is a go.

Harry


On 2/4/07, John W. Reames III [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 On Sun, 4 Feb 2007, LarryT wrote:

  I rec'd a muffler via UPS which was taped and bubbled wrapper (mostly
on
 the
  ends) and there were no problems that I know of.
 
  It must be something difficult to damage though so it won't have a box
 to
  absorb hits.

 I've gotten more than one this way; the ends wraped in the dense foam
wrap
 and saran, then saran holding a tag on the muffler body. Heck, I've
gotten
 complete exhausts this way. You need to make sure that the ends of the
 pipes arent deformed tho, this seems to happen sometimes.
 -.



 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

___
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For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] drive up ramps

2007-02-04 Thread Tom Hargrave
Years ago, I had a steel jack stand fail. I owned a pair of stands
manufactured out of tube steel. I put my 81 Pontiac Bonneville diesel on the
stands to check the brakes  I watched the one on the left side slowly
collapse. The pin that was used to adjust the stand height slowly ripped
through the outer tube until the tire was back on the ground. Both jack
stands were properly placed. I had used these for years  I guess the steel
under the pin fatigued enough to start the tear  once it started, it
continued until enough weight was removed to stop.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Mike Canfield
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 10:46 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] drive up ramps

Bring your jack in the house the night before so it is warm.  Jack the car 
up, put it on stands and take the jack back inside while you work.

Mike
- Original Message - 
From: Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Glenn M. Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Diesel List 
mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, February 03, 2007 9:12 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] drive up ramps


 Hi Glenn,

 I've cc'd the list...

 I agree, I own a set of jackstands but according to the news it'll 
 struggle to get into the 20s this week so hydralic jacks are pretty much

 out I was thinking the ramp would be good for lifting, then put my 
 jackstand underneith to actually hold the thing up...

 -Curt

 Glenn M. Brown [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Curt,
 Don't!  There was a story on the news within the last couple months
 where a fellow was found deceased a couple days later under his car
 since the ramps had collapsed.  I never get under a car without my
 hydraulic jack and jack stands, it's nor worth the risk.  Good luck.

 G. M. Brown
 Rochester, NY




 -
 Any questions?  Get answers on any topic at Yahoo! Answers. Try it now.
 ___
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 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] Kaleb or anyone, a shipping question

2007-02-04 Thread Tom Hargrave
No problem.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Harry Watkins
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 11:00 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Kaleb or anyone, a shipping question

Thanks Tom

Here are the UPS guidelines for bare metal shipping.

Packing:
Please tape corrugated cardboard pieces to all sharp or protruding edges for
protection.
Cover the other surfaces of the item as needed.

Labeling:
Please tape your address label securely on the flattest surface of the item
that you are shipping.
Cover the entire label with clear tape.Do not use flying tags (tags that
hang from the item that you are shipping).


On 2/4/07, Tom Hargrave [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 It is - you can ship just about any bulk item but they charge a little
 more.
 UPS has some rules that you must follow when attaching a shipping label.
 You
 can research on UPS.com or call your local office.

 Thanks,
 Tom Hargrave
 www.kegkits.com
 256-656-1924


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of Harry Watkins
 Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 10:35 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion List
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Kaleb or anyone, a shipping question

 Thanks John

 Was all of this UPS?  It sounds like shipping a drive shaft without boxing
 is a go.

 Harry


 On 2/4/07, John W. Reames III [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  On Sun, 4 Feb 2007, LarryT wrote:
 
   I rec'd a muffler via UPS which was taped and bubbled wrapper (mostly
 on
  the
   ends) and there were no problems that I know of.
  
   It must be something difficult to damage though so it won't have a box
  to
   absorb hits.
 
  I've gotten more than one this way; the ends wraped in the dense foam
 wrap
  and saran, then saran holding a tag on the muffler body. Heck, I've
 gotten
  complete exhausts this way. You need to make sure that the ends of the
  pipes arent deformed tho, this seems to happen sometimes.
  -.
 
 
 
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
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[MBZ] Block heaters

2007-02-04 Thread Steve Bailey


Do the Mercedes block heaters have any sort of thermostatic control or are
they always on when plugged in? Also, is there a chart of time required to
heat up an engine based on outside temps?

Steve




Re: [MBZ] Kaleb or anyone, a shipping question

2007-02-04 Thread dave walton

Stay away from DHL. when shipping bare parts. If you are in a position
to negotiate a volume discount, DHL will give you the cheapest
contract rates. They will also give you the most grief on a regular
basis, however.
FedEx is usually he next cheapest.
UPS is unionized, but their driver productivity is the highest and
complaints are the lowest.

At least that has been my experience.

-Dave Walton

On 2/4/07, Harry Watkins [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

IIRC, in a thread about shipping parts, Kaleb said he shipped with just a
tag, no boxing.

Was that correct and  was it UPS?  I know I got a Ford gas tank with only
enough cardboard for addresses, also wheels and tires.

Thanks for any input.

Harry
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Re: [MBZ] Block heaters

2007-02-04 Thread Jim Cathey
Do the Mercedes block heaters have any sort of thermostatic control or 
are
they always on when plugged in? Also, is there a chart of time 
required to

heat up an engine based on outside temps?


Plugged-in == heat.  Simple.  I find that between 1-2 hours gives you
everything that can be gotten, more time is a waste.  Unless it is
particularly cold, even 1/2 hour will help markedly.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Block heaters

2007-02-04 Thread Bill Gallagher
temp -10F and told 1 1/2 hours plug in time for my 81 300 TD to start 
almost instantly


bill

Jim Cathey wrote:
Do the Mercedes block heaters have any sort of thermostatic control or 
are
they always on when plugged in? Also, is there a chart of time 
required to

heat up an engine based on outside temps?



Plugged-in == heat.  Simple.  I find that between 1-2 hours gives you
everything that can be gotten, more time is a waste.  Unless it is
particularly cold, even 1/2 hour will help markedly.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Block heaters

2007-02-04 Thread Levi Smith

I tried mine on the Kill-a-watt and it seems to only be around 375 watts.

What I'm curious about is if everyone is just popping the hood a couple
times a day to plug/unplug, or if anyone's figured out a better way?  I
think I could fit the plug out at either the front or rear of the hood
without pinching, but it would get full of snow and ice on the first ride on
less than dry pavement...

Levi

On 2/4/07, Steve Bailey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:




Do the Mercedes block heaters have any sort of thermostatic control or are
they always on when plugged in? Also, is there a chart of time required to
heat up an engine based on outside temps?

Steve


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Re: [MBZ] Block heaters

2007-02-04 Thread Chuck Landenberger

Levi,

On my '80 300SD, I snaked the plug out thru/near the right headlight  
assembly and kept it behind the override bumper.  The plug has a  
cover so that it could be kept dry.  Never needed to open hood.


Before I got the block heater, I used to put a 60W bulb next to the  
injector and a 200W w/reflector under the oil pan.  That worked, but  
was a whole lot more trouble.


HTH and take care,

Chuck
Phoenix, AZ  Only vergassers now and no need for a block heater  
in Phoenix


On Feb 4, 2007, at 12:07 PM, Levi Smith wrote:

I tried mine on the Kill-a-watt and it seems to only be around 375  
watts.


What I'm curious about is if everyone is just popping the hood a  
couple
times a day to plug/unplug, or if anyone's figured out a better  
way?  I

think I could fit the plug out at either the front or rear of the hood
without pinching, but it would get full of snow and ice on the  
first ride on

less than dry pavement...





Re: [MBZ] Block heaters

2007-02-04 Thread Steve Bailey
Thanks. I will look for a timer so that I don't just run it all night. I
only need it for maybe 2 weeks a year and have not invested any time in
finding out about it. I should ask my sister about them as she lives in
Fairbanks and will plug her car in all over town. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 1:23 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Block heaters

 Do the Mercedes block heaters have any sort of thermostatic control or 
 are
 they always on when plugged in? Also, is there a chart of time 
 required to
 heat up an engine based on outside temps?

Plugged-in == heat.  Simple.  I find that between 1-2 hours gives you
everything that can be gotten, more time is a waste.  Unless it is
particularly cold, even 1/2 hour will help markedly.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Block heaters

2007-02-04 Thread Tom Hargrave
When I used one, I rigged up the extension cord so that when I backed up the
cord pulled tight  unplugged itself.

Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
www.kegkits.com
256-656-1924
 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Levi Smith
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 1:07 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Block heaters

I tried mine on the Kill-a-watt and it seems to only be around 375 watts.

What I'm curious about is if everyone is just popping the hood a couple
times a day to plug/unplug, or if anyone's figured out a better way?  I
think I could fit the plug out at either the front or rear of the hood
without pinching, but it would get full of snow and ice on the first ride on
less than dry pavement...

Levi

On 2/4/07, Steve Bailey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:



 Do the Mercedes block heaters have any sort of thermostatic control or are
 they always on when plugged in? Also, is there a chart of time required to
 heat up an engine based on outside temps?

 Steve


 ___
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 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] Cracked head?

2007-02-04 Thread Marshall Booth

andrew strasfogel wrote:

These cars simply do not last like those from the 50s.  ;)


The cars from the fifties required 2-5X the maintenance that today's 
cars do. On a W180 220S there were more than 30 grease fitting that had 
to be greased every 3kmi (and that didn't include the grease fittings on 
the door hinges that were to be lubed at every service)! The starters 
and generators routinely failed within 60kmi. When Mercedes introduced 
lubricated for life fittings in 1968, many owners and mechanics felt 
they would not deliver the service that the fittings that required 
greasing would deliver. In fact, the permanent fittings lasted on 
average twice as long.


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] Uh oh - fuel leak

2007-02-04 Thread OK Don

Hew wide is the base of these metal ramps? I'm wondering about the
relatice safety of a stack of 2X12's ---



I do.  I have two sets, old green ones that are stamped in shape,
as opposed to welded-up ones.  I always felt safer under the stamped
ones since they looked to me as being less likely to buckle suddenly,
as they weren't dependent on rigid straight sections to begin with.
I expect, but have no proof of, a more gradual failure mechanism.

But a nice jack stand or two underneath in addition is an nice
life preserver.



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
Even if you're on the right track, you'll get run over if you just
sit there.
Will Rogers
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager



Re: [MBZ] Block heaters

2007-02-04 Thread Jim Cathey
I tried mine on the Kill-a-watt and it seems to only be around 375 
watts.


Just about right.


What I'm curious about is if everyone is just popping the hood a couple
times a day to plug/unplug, or if anyone's figured out a better way?


My plug snakes through in front of the radiator, and tucks up behind
the bumper when not in use.  Stays relatively clean there, and is
easy to grab without popping the hood.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Uh oh - fuel leak

2007-02-04 Thread Jim Cathey

Hew wide is the base of these metal ramps? I'm wondering about the
relatice safety of a stack of 2X12's ---


Probably about a foot.  2x12's will work well too, but you
must take care they won't skid apart.  Some nails and some
wood pieces to make a stepped block would work well.  For
even better safety you could take care to ensure the grain
pattern of each layer differed, and make your own glue-lam.

-- Jim




Re: [MBZ] Will not start

2007-02-04 Thread Marshall Booth

andrew strasfogel wrote:

What effect will the condition of the glow plugs have on cold weather
starting?


Plugs that measure correctly and that aren't encased in carbon should 
start the car as well a new plugs. As plugs age, they will fatigue, but 
that is reflected in the current flow characteristics.


Second only to to plug condition in inhibiting starting in cold weather 
are valve clearances. If one or two are tight, starting in below 
freezing temperatures is seriously compromised or even prevented. 
Finally, the fuel must flow freely. Number 2 diesel starts to cloud and 
flow is inhibited at just below freezing unless winterized. Finally, any 
water in the fuel will freeze and plug the fuel lines and plate ice onto 
the filter surfaces.


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] Block heaters

2007-02-04 Thread Marshall Booth

Steve Bailey wrote:


Do the Mercedes block heaters have any sort of thermostatic control or are
they always on when plugged in? Also, is there a chart of time required to
heat up an engine based on outside temps?


There is NO control, the block heater runs at full power as long as it's 
plugged in. They are all between 400-500W heaters so thats how much heat 
they can generate. That will heat the engine to 20-30 deg C. in a few 
hours if the outside temps aren't too low.


A chart would be rather pointless since so many other factors (such as 
sun and wind) would change how long it would take to heat the engine to 
a given temp. The actual intent is to raise the temp to about O deg. C. 
where the engine will start very easily. I have found that all of my 
cars (115, 123, 124, 201) would start when cold soaked to 20 below zero 
F (~30 below C) if the heater were energized for several hours.


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



Re: [MBZ] Kaleb or anyone, a shipping question

2007-02-04 Thread Mike Canfield
I missed the original ?I have shipped driveshafts in priority Mail 
tubes.  They are free and work well.  Tape 2 together if you need length.


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: Harry Watkins [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 11:35 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Kaleb or anyone, a shipping question



Thanks John

Was all of this UPS?  It sounds like shipping a drive shaft without boxing
is a go.

Harry


On 2/4/07, John W. Reames III [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


On Sun, 4 Feb 2007, LarryT wrote:

 I rec'd a muffler via UPS which was taped and bubbled wrapper (mostly 
 on

the
 ends) and there were no problems that I know of.

 It must be something difficult to damage though so it won't have a box
to
 absorb hits.

I've gotten more than one this way; the ends wraped in the dense foam 
wrap
and saran, then saran holding a tag on the muffler body. Heck, I've 
gotten

complete exhausts this way. You need to make sure that the ends of the
pipes arent deformed tho, this seems to happen sometimes.
-.



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Re: [MBZ] Uh oh - fuel leak

2007-02-04 Thread Mitch Haley


OK Don wrote:
 
 Hew wide is the base of these metal ramps? I'm wondering about the
 relatice safety of a stack of 2X12's ---

My cousin has a set he made out of 2x8 or stock, about 16 wide, 4' long.
Very solid. Take a 6' long 2x8, slice it at an angle to make two ramp shaped
boards, full width for a foot or so, then tapering to a point. Take a 2x12
(or a pair of 2x6's) that's as long as you want your ramp to be wide, nail
the two tapered boards to it so it becomes the back wall of the ramp and
serves as a stop at the top. 
Now nail 2x8s across the top of the ramp to serve as decking. 
Unlike many commercially produced ramps, the slope is gentle enough to
drive a 2.3-16v onto without hitting the front spoiler. 
Mitch.



Re: [MBZ] Kaleb or anyone, a shipping question

2007-02-04 Thread Mike Canfield
Delivery Hopelessly Lost...I can go into detail if need be but I 
suggest staying away from them as well.


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 1:04 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Kaleb or anyone, a shipping question



Stay away from DHL. when shipping bare parts. If you are in a position
to negotiate a volume discount, DHL will give you the cheapest
contract rates. They will also give you the most grief on a regular
basis, however.
FedEx is usually he next cheapest.
UPS is unionized, but their driver productivity is the highest and
complaints are the lowest.

At least that has been my experience.

-Dave Walton

On 2/4/07, Harry Watkins [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

IIRC, in a thread about shipping parts, Kaleb said he shipped with just a
tag, no boxing.

Was that correct and  was it UPS?  I know I got a Ford gas tank with only
enough cardboard for addresses, also wheels and tires.

Thanks for any input.

Harry
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Re: [MBZ] Kaleb or anyone, a shipping question

2007-02-04 Thread LarryT
If the parts you talked of wiring together are completely seperate from the 
d'shaft you might want to consider  boxing  the extra pieces and ship on 
their own.  If the pieces are still attached to the d'shaft and are just 
loose but not broken away from the D'shaft completely I suggest you wire 
them and bubble wrap with saran wrap them as Tom suggested so they don't 
move around.  From looking at it and cursory examination it should appear to 
be one piece.


Yes, UPS is what I've used for stuff like this.  Also, I used Greyhound once 
to ship a fiberglas bumper from Va to Oregon - weighed about 20#s and cost 
around $30.  Took 3 days to get there.  I bought 3 wardrobe boxes on eBay 
for $45 shipping included - and taped two of the boxes together.  The buyer 
paid for the big boxes and other stuff.


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: Harry Watkins [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, February 04, 2007 11:35 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Kaleb or anyone, a shipping question



Thanks John

Was all of this UPS?  It sounds like shipping a drive shaft without boxing
is a go.

Harry


On 2/4/07, John W. Reames III [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


On Sun, 4 Feb 2007, LarryT wrote:

 I rec'd a muffler via UPS which was taped and bubbled wrapper (mostly 
 on

the
 ends) and there were no problems that I know of.

 It must be something difficult to damage though so it won't have a box
to
 absorb hits.

I've gotten more than one this way; the ends wraped in the dense foam 
wrap
and saran, then saran holding a tag on the muffler body. Heck, I've 
gotten

complete exhausts this way. You need to make sure that the ends of the
pipes arent deformed tho, this seems to happen sometimes.
-.



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For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] Cracked head?

2007-02-04 Thread Joe Knight

It's kind of hard to see with everything buttoned up, but when I
pulled the intake from my '87 it was immediately apparent that one
source of coolant loss was the brittle o-ring that makes the seal for
the fuel heater pipe at the head.  Mine was visibly leaking with just
a hint of residual pressure in the cooling system.

-joe (currently resting himself between 1st  2nd 90 degree head bolt drill)



Re: [MBZ] Cracked head?

2007-02-04 Thread Peter Frederick
I'll check that -- I'd very much like to avoid doing the head for a 
bit, I have to put a roof on the house this summer, plus replace all 
the windows


peter




[MBZ] one of the great problems with being a gambler

2007-02-04 Thread Gary Hurst

is that you really need to make the professional bets to be
successful.  simply put, a professional bet is a bet that your head
makes in opposition to your heart.

the professional bet for me here would be to take the bears in the
super bowl.  so many reasons to take them it isn't even funny.

but i worship at the shrine of peyton and i REALLY want him to have a
super bowl ring.  so what can I do?

if i were a real gambler, i'd just bet the bears.  but i'm too much of
a fan in the end.