Essentially NO crankcase ventilation, no way for the water vapor to
escape. Results from attempting to minimize emissions from burning
crankcase vapors, I suspect.
Chrysler had absolute fits with this on their trucks.
Peter
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-A6824416_W0QQitemZ330086604108QQihZ014QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tue Feb 13 00:56:30 2007
Received: from nz-out-0506.google.com ([64.233.162.234])
by server8.arterytc8.net with esmtp (Exim 4.63)
Hi Kevin -
It all depends on how bad the rings are - engines don't always do what you
think they will do. I know what you mean about the sound of the starter,
but compression to start the engine vs compression to allow the starter to
spin easily are 2 different things - having very low
It looks almost identical to one offered by Lincoln - which I have. It has
allowed me to try MIG and learn how to do things with it - wire feed speed
and temp are critical and settings greatly affect the result.
See if you can attach gas to it - gas will provide a much better weld - the
gas
I just wish the pictures were smaller..
You need to buy an electron microscope on ebay first so you can look at
those photos.
Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 167K
'87 Acura Legend 181K
Litchfield Park, AZ
- Original Message -
From: Kaleb C. Striplin, Cox Auto Trader [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Bob Rentfro wrote:
I just wish the pictures were smaller..
You need to buy an electron microscope on ebay first so you can look at
those photos.
But he'd have to charge MORE if the pictures were bigger!
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of
Larry - the things that comes to mind are that this kind of article is
usually written by a reporter, not an engineer; that the purpose is to sell
papers; and inconvenient details are often left out to fit into the
editor's space allotment.
That said, oil sludge is almost always a product of
On Mon, 12 Feb 2007, andrew strasfogel wrote:
If the seals are missing or worn, should I purchase a new bolt?
The seal rings are N 007603 018101 and A 000 997 58 48 for engines
.912 - 153338, .951 - 043083, and .952 - 047570
They are A 000 997 00 48 and A 000 997 58 48 for engines .912 153339
Thanks Werner - *that* makes sense - knowing it's the reporter/editor's
fault is easy ;-)
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net
Weber Carb Info
Yeah they are an awesome machine http://www.kamaz.net/en/vehicle/serial/17
with 730 horses they wanna go fast, like 100mph with a full load
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 6:39 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Paris Dakar trucks
No rust, good condition etc, everything working, about 2500 or so.
Bob Rentfro wrote:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1983-Mercedes-Benz-300D-Very-clean-and-drives-nice_W0QQitemZ130077702634QQihZ003QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 166K
'87 Acura Legend 181K
Litchfield
In a message dated 2/12/2007 6:28:09 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
That said, oil sludge is almost always a product of trapped moisture or
combustion product contaminants, coupled with improper (usually cool)
temperatures. It would seem that our Japanese
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/zip/277901437.html
Best deal in town for a rig to head out this summer. Super Kaleb price
too!
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner
1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
a test light will show if there's
any voltage going to the GPs. hook up the test light and time how long it
stays lit.
Where does the test light need to be hooked up to test GP relay function?
Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 266K miles, Ursula
Seems like there might be something else at work here besides owners
not
changing oil at proper times - the problem only started around
1997/1998
why wasn't it an apparent problem in older cars? Maybe oil quality
degraded 10-12 years ago?
When did the shift to 5W- and 0W- oils take place?
Where does the test light need to be hooked up to test GP relay
function?
The glow plug of your choice! (And ground.)
-- Jim
Thanks Marshall and Bob.
Found this site, http://dieselgiant.com/glowplugrepair.htm complete with
pictures, which details the steps to check the fuse and plugs.
Martin
Marshall Booth wrote:
carbucks wrote:
Hello all,
Looking for some list wisdom.
What does it mean when the glow plug
Thanks, Jim! I want to find out how the GP's and relay are working in the
infamous Black '85 300D I'm checking into. If everything's in order and it
still won't start, it's probably in much the same state as the $500 1981
300CD that I had. It had tight, VERY TIGHT valves , and the GP's
I found a shop light at, well, actually that same hardware store, that was
LED. Had a couple rows of LEDs. Was tempting sitting there in that Harbor
Freight-style stand in the aisleway. Was like 25 or 30 $.
Any experience with these?
Brian
On 2/12/07, Curt Raymond [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Zoltan Finks wrote:
I found a shop light at, well, actually that same hardware store, that was
LED. Had a couple rows of LEDs. Was tempting sitting there in that Harbor
Freight-style stand in the aisleway. Was like 25 or 30 $.
Any experience with these?
I bought a couple at Meijer for
On the subject of equipment, I am hankering to purchase a car lift for my
garage. 2 Post or 4 Post? I have limited ceiling height and would have to
do electrical work to accommodate the 220 volts needed for a 2 post system
that's bolted to the concrete floor. I'm not inclined to a 4 post
On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 21:05:42 -0800 Redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/zip/277901437.html
Best deal in town for a rig to head out this summer. Super Kaleb price
too!
This posting has been deleted by its author.
(The title on the listings page will be
Deleted already.
On 2/13/07, Redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/zip/277901437.html
Best deal in town for a rig to head out this summer. Super Kaleb price
too!
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner
1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would
Jim Cathey wrote:
Seems like there might be something else at work here besides owners
not
changing oil at proper times - the problem only started around
1997/1998
why wasn't it an apparent problem in older cars? Maybe oil quality
degraded 10-12 years ago?
When did the shift to 5W- and 0W-
kevin kraly wrote:
Thanks, Jim! I want to find out how the GP's and relay are working in the
infamous Black '85 300D I'm checking into. If everything's in order and it
still won't start, it's probably in much the same state as the $500 1981
300CD that I had. It had tight, VERY TIGHT valves
Andrew - I have a 2 post asymmetrical lift that does indeed require 220V,
but the real problem is that it needs 12 ft of ceiling clearance, as the
cross over cabling is overhead rather than on the floor. Great to work on a
car when you want to have free movement underneath!
Fortunately, when I
Even with a 12 ft clearance, I have to watch out for lifting my M-B with the
hood vertical. Thankfully, the roof trusses are on 4 ft centers, and the
hood can fit between the trusses a bit when fully raised.
Of course, one could lower the hood, but that would take forethought and
patience...
What are my options with a ceiling ht. of 100 inches?? The garage has a
flat roof and rafters are spaced at 16. Width is 137.
On 2/13/07, Werner Fehlauer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Even with a 12 ft clearance, I have to watch out for lifting my M-B with
the
hood vertical. Thankfully, the
Andrew - check out www.geusa.com - that's where I bought my Bend-Pak XP-10AC
a few years ago, when they had a sale. They do show a low ceiling lift that
still requires 113 clearance for the posts. Less than that, you may be
looking at a 4-post or something like that.
Werner
- Original
Werner - I think this would work for me as I could probably align the posts
between the rafters to accommodate the 113 ht. Is yours the same?
http://www.pantherlifts.com/9K_two_post_lift.html
On 2/13/07, Werner Fehlauer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Andrew - check out www.geusa.com - that's
...as to direct me to the link with the instructions for repairing older (1974
240D) clocks? Everything else in the cluster works like new after I jumpered
the rheostat, reset the glass retainer, and superglued the odometer. BTW, this
is the third car on which I have used the superglue fix,
Do you know if the extended engine warranties were transferrable to new
owners of late 90s MB's?
Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS! youroil.net
Weber Carb Info
Hi Kevin,
Don't forget to ask for records/receipts - need to verify work done on the
Rebuild.
Let us know how the test light does on the relay - (thanks to Jim for
telling how to hook up the test light) - it's always nice to keep the
symptoms/possible problems on the back burner for future
Andrew - as you can see in the ads you cite, there are pros and cons for
whatever you choose. The lift with the most clear, unobstructed working
area, is the 2 post with overhead equalizing cables and lines.
Unfortunately, that is also the one needing the most height clearance. You
have to
Yeah, I am aware of this. Other than a Vermont cart certified to carry
loads up to 400 lbs. I have no means of taking it off their truck or
installing it. Might have to enlist the assistance of a third party.
On 2/13/07, Werner Fehlauer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Andrew - as you can see in the
Unless you are a very short person, that 100 ceiling height is going to
be a problem with getting under the car -- a car is what, maybe 48 tall
or more? That means you only have 4ish ft under it if it is up against
the ceiling. I saw on some car show on Sunday a lift that slides under
the
Andrew - some trucking companies will make you come and pick up a
large/heavy item at their dock, or charge extra is they have to bring out a
fork lift or similar item.
The Bend-Pak lifts come with a heavy iron angle iron frame bolted to each
end, making the whole package very heavy, but easier
superglued the odometer.
How does this work? Do you put the superglue on the affected shaft/gear?
Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 266K miles, Ursula
Thanks, Marshall. I was simply stating the condition of the 300CD when I
bought it as a non runner and got it to run by adjusting the tight valves
back into spec. I'm hoping that the black car will turn out to be a good
buy and that the owner has receipts for the work done on the engine
andrew strasfogel wrote:
What are my options with a ceiling ht. of 100 inches?? The garage has a
flat roof and rafters are spaced at 16. Width is 137.
Dig a pit.
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
don't all mercedes engines come with major oil consumption?
On 2/12/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
In a message dated 2/12/2007 6:28:09 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
That said, oil sludge is almost always a product of trapped moisture or
Didn't Stu Ritter ban you from a mail list the last time you made comments
like this?
- Original Message -
From: Gary Hurst [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 4:36 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sludge Issues/my 0.02
don't all
kevin kraly wrote:
Thanks, Marshall. I was simply stating the condition of the 300CD when I
bought it as a non runner and got it to run by adjusting the tight valves
back into spec. I'm hoping that the black car will turn out to be a good
buy and that the owner has receipts for the work done
yes, i was wondering why GM engines were junk and lasted hundreds of
thousands of miles with minimal attention but mercedes engines were
quality but burn oil maniacally starting at 50k miles.
the obvious point here is that GM engines are not junk as such (well, not
for the most part. t here are
Werner Fehlauer wrote:
The floor needs to be 4-6 of 3000# concrete, and its a snap to rent the
proper concrete drill for a couple of hours from Home Depot to drill the
8 holes for installing the anchor bolts.
I always wanted to cast the mounts into the concrete rather than drill.
I'd love to
Just put a couple of big washers, or metal bars of some kind on the
heads connecting them, use bolts several inches long. Making Ubolts
sounds like a lot of work.
--R
Mitch Haley wrote:
I always wanted to cast the mounts into the concrete rather than drill.
I'd love to have four huge
Mitch - with most lifts that have a pre-drilled, welded on base plate, it
would be nearly impossible to have imbedded threaded studs in smooth
concrete for the base. And these are BIG bolts, not easy to bend without a
torch!
The way they want you to do it in the installation instructions is
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