Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?

[Werner Fehlauer]

Mitch - with most lifts that have a pre-drilled, welded on base plate, it 
would be nearly impossible to have imbedded threaded studs in smooth 
concrete for the base.  And these are BIG bolts, not easy to bend without a 
torch!
The way they want you to do it in the installation instructions is you erect 
the posts in the correct location and orientation, THEN drill the holes 
using the base plate as the "template".  The anchor bolts really expand and 
seize in the drilled holes nicely - I went back several months later, after 
lifting up some heavy cars (SD's, F150 4x4) and found them to still be just 
as tightly held as when I first put them in.  I did make sure to put in some 
extra re-bar in the concrete (careful to avoid where I had to drill holes 
for the bolts), so that the slab would be a stronger "plate" under the 
posts.
I suppose you could make a drill template from the lift base plate (might 
have to make one for each post in case they are different), and then somehow 
hold the threaded studs in perfect alignment while the concrete sets - but 
that's not what I would want to try.

Werner

- Original Message - 
From: "Mitch Haley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 5:28 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?





Werner Fehlauer wrote:

The floor needs to be 4-6" of 3000# concrete, and its a snap to rent the
proper concrete drill for a couple of hours from Home Depot to drill the
8 holes for installing the anchor bolts.


I always wanted to cast the mounts into the concrete rather than drill.
I'd love to have four huge u-bolts under the concrete, even if I have
to bend them myself to get the right spacing. Adviseable or not?

Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?

[Rich Thomas]

Just put a couple of big washers, or metal bars of some kind on the 
heads connecting them, use bolts several inches long.  Making Ubolts 
sounds like a lot of work.


--R

Mitch Haley wrote:

I always wanted to cast the mounts into the concrete rather than drill.
I'd love to have four huge u-bolts under the concrete, even if I have
to bend them myself to get the right spacing. Adviseable or not?


  

Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?

[Mitch Haley]

Werner Fehlauer wrote:
> The floor needs to be 4-6" of 3000# concrete, and its a snap to rent the
> proper concrete drill for a couple of hours from Home Depot to drill the
> 8 holes for installing the anchor bolts.

I always wanted to cast the mounts into the concrete rather than drill.
I'd love to have four huge u-bolts under the concrete, even if I have
to bend them myself to get the right spacing. Adviseable or not?

Re: [MBZ] Sludge Issues/my 0.02

[Gary Hurst]

yes, i was wondering why GM engines were "junk" and lasted hundreds of
thousands of miles with minimal attention but mercedes engines were
"quality" but burn oil maniacally starting at 50k miles.

the obvious point here is that GM engines are not junk as such (well, not
for the most part. t here are some though) and that mercedes is not the be
all and end all of wonder automotion.

ritter and company felt this deserved the life ban, which in turn created
mbz.org which was the foundation for buymbparts.com and whatever survives of
these enterperises today, which would include this very list.

stu ritter -- maker of history!

jabba hursty -- 4 cylinder GM engine dating to the late 70s that does not
burn any oil while every mercedes he has does.

On 2/13/07, Rusty Cullens <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Didn't Stu Ritter ban you from a mail list the last time you made comments
like this?


- Original Message -
From: "Gary Hurst" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 4:36 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sludge Issues/my 0.02


> don't all mercedes engines come with major oil consumption?
>
> On 2/12/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 2/12/2007 6:28:09 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> >
> > That  said, oil "sludge" is almost always a product of trapped
moisture
or
> > combustion product contaminants, coupled with improper (usually cool)
> > temperatures.  It would seem that our Japanese friends missed
the  boat
> > somewhere in their design or user instructions, allowing
this  situation
> > to
> > develop.  The fact that they seem to have readily agreed  to replace
> > engines
> > under an extended warranty speaks volumes about who is  responsible.
> >
> > And there should be no "eternal sludge formation" if  proper oil
changes
> > are
> > made, using the correct oils and at the correct  intervals form the
> > operating
> > conditions.
> >
> >
> >
> > Mercedes did indeed have a sludge problem starting about late 96, when
FSS
> > was adapted to various vehicles.  The FSS was set at some distance
> > which  was
> > NOT compatible with standard, but MB recommended, dino oils.  The
sludge
> > created by owners, merely following the MB service intervals. did
> > indeed  have long
> > lasting effects.  The sludge would not flow into the oil
pumps,  leaving
> > bearings and cylinder walls to suffer!   Newish engines, with  less
than
> > 30,000
> > miles became oil burners!  Initially, the dealers were  required to
> > document oil
> > consumption and dealt with the owners on an  individual basis.  Oil
> > consumption in excess of one quart per 1000 miles  seemed to be the
basis
> > for factory
> > intervention.
> >
> > Class action suits quietly prevailed and Mercedes has now extended the
> > engine warranties to 150,000 miles.  This for those FSS equipped
> > engines  with
> > factory recommended dino oils in the owner's manual.  In
addition,  ONLY
> > recommended synthetic oils were now mandatory, no dino oil
> > was  acceptable.  My 98 ML
> > falls in the extended warranty but it has never been  an oil burner,
and
> > as you
> > can see, is past 147,000 miles.
> >
> > I would suggest that anyone who is considering buying a used Benz, in
the
> > late 90's era, watch out not for sludge, but major
> > oil  consumption.  Figure out
> > a way to drive the vehicle at least a thousand  miles with the
contingency
> > being that you can give it back if it turns out to be  an oil burner.
Or,
> > maybe
> > squeeze MB for a new engine under their extended  warranty program.
> >
> > Buyer beware!
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Jim  Friesen
> > Phoenix AZ
> > 79 300SD, 264 K miles
> > 98 ML 320, 147 K  miles
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] Black '85 300D update

[Marshall Booth]

kevin kraly wrote:
Thanks, Marshall.  I was simply stating the condition of the 300CD when I 
bought it as a non runner and got it to run by adjusting the tight valves 
back into spec.  I'm hoping that "the black car" will turn out to be a good 
buy and that the owner has receipts for the work done on the engine rebuild.


I trend to run away from rebuilds except by people I know personally to 
be experienced Mercedes diesel rebuilders (with a proven history of 
successful rebuilds) or a factory rebuild. MOST of the rebuilds I've 
encountered over the last few years that were NOT factory rebuilds have 
displayed serious problems. Most seemed to come from being rebuilt by 
someone that did few diesels and considered a diesel as just another 
engine and Mercedes no different than Chevy or Ford.


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [MBZ] Sludge Issues/my 0.02

[Rusty Cullens]

Didn't Stu Ritter ban you from a mail list the last time you made comments
like this?


- Original Message -
From: "Gary Hurst" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 4:36 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sludge Issues/my 0.02


> don't all mercedes engines come with major oil consumption?
>
> On 2/12/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 2/12/2007 6:28:09 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> >
> > That  said, oil "sludge" is almost always a product of trapped moisture
or
> > combustion product contaminants, coupled with improper (usually cool)
> > temperatures.  It would seem that our Japanese friends missed the  boat
> > somewhere in their design or user instructions, allowing this  situation
> > to
> > develop.  The fact that they seem to have readily agreed  to replace
> > engines
> > under an extended warranty speaks volumes about who is  responsible.
> >
> > And there should be no "eternal sludge formation" if  proper oil changes
> > are
> > made, using the correct oils and at the correct  intervals form the
> > operating
> > conditions.
> >
> >
> >
> > Mercedes did indeed have a sludge problem starting about late 96, when
FSS
> > was adapted to various vehicles.  The FSS was set at some distance
> > which  was
> > NOT compatible with standard, but MB recommended, dino oils.  The
sludge
> > created by owners, merely following the MB service intervals. did
> > indeed  have long
> > lasting effects.  The sludge would not flow into the oil pumps,  leaving
> > bearings and cylinder walls to suffer!   Newish engines, with  less than
> > 30,000
> > miles became oil burners!  Initially, the dealers were  required to
> > document oil
> > consumption and dealt with the owners on an  individual basis.  Oil
> > consumption in excess of one quart per 1000 miles  seemed to be the
basis
> > for factory
> > intervention.
> >
> > Class action suits quietly prevailed and Mercedes has now extended the
> > engine warranties to 150,000 miles.  This for those FSS equipped
> > engines  with
> > factory recommended dino oils in the owner's manual.  In addition,  ONLY
> > recommended synthetic oils were now mandatory, no dino oil
> > was  acceptable.  My 98 ML
> > falls in the extended warranty but it has never been  an oil burner, and
> > as you
> > can see, is past 147,000 miles.
> >
> > I would suggest that anyone who is considering buying a used Benz, in
the
> > late 90's era, watch out not for sludge, but major
> > oil  consumption.  Figure out
> > a way to drive the vehicle at least a thousand  miles with the
contingency
> > being that you can give it back if it turns out to be  an oil burner.
Or,
> > maybe
> > squeeze MB for a new engine under their extended  warranty program.
> >
> > Buyer beware!
> >
> > Regards
> >
> > Jim  Friesen
> > Phoenix AZ
> > 79 300SD, 264 K miles
> > 98 ML 320, 147 K  miles
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Sludge Issues/my 0.02

[Gary Hurst]

don't all mercedes engines come with major oil consumption?

On 2/12/07, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:



In a message dated 2/12/2007 6:28:09 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

That  said, oil "sludge" is almost always a product of trapped moisture or
combustion product contaminants, coupled with improper (usually cool)
temperatures.  It would seem that our Japanese friends missed the  boat
somewhere in their design or user instructions, allowing this  situation
to
develop.  The fact that they seem to have readily agreed  to replace
engines
under an extended warranty speaks volumes about who is  responsible.

And there should be no "eternal sludge formation" if  proper oil changes
are
made, using the correct oils and at the correct  intervals form the
operating
conditions.



Mercedes did indeed have a sludge problem starting about late 96, when FSS
was adapted to various vehicles.  The FSS was set at some distance
which  was
NOT compatible with standard, but MB recommended, dino oils.  The  sludge
created by owners, merely following the MB service intervals. did
indeed  have long
lasting effects.  The sludge would not flow into the oil pumps,  leaving
bearings and cylinder walls to suffer!   Newish engines, with  less than
30,000
miles became oil burners!  Initially, the dealers were  required to
document oil
consumption and dealt with the owners on an  individual basis.  Oil
consumption in excess of one quart per 1000 miles  seemed to be the basis
for factory
intervention.

Class action suits quietly prevailed and Mercedes has now extended the
engine warranties to 150,000 miles.  This for those FSS equipped
engines  with
factory recommended dino oils in the owner's manual.  In addition,  ONLY
recommended synthetic oils were now mandatory, no dino oil
was  acceptable.  My 98 ML
falls in the extended warranty but it has never been  an oil burner, and
as you
can see, is past 147,000 miles.

I would suggest that anyone who is considering buying a used Benz, in  the
late 90's era, watch out not for sludge, but major
oil  consumption.  Figure out
a way to drive the vehicle at least a thousand  miles with the contingency
being that you can give it back if it turns out to be  an oil burner.  Or,
maybe
squeeze MB for a new engine under their extended  warranty program.

Buyer beware!

Regards

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles
98 ML 320, 147 K  miles

___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?

[Marshall Booth]

andrew strasfogel wrote:

What are my options with a ceiling ht. of 100 inches??  The garage has a
flat roof and rafters are spaced at 16".  Width is 137".


Dig a pit.

Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [MBZ] Black '85 300D update

[kevin kraly]

Thanks, Marshall.  I was simply stating the condition of the 300CD when I 
bought it as a non runner and got it to run by adjusting the tight valves 
back into spec.  I'm hoping that "the black car" will turn out to be a good 
buy and that the owner has receipts for the work done on the engine rebuild.


Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 266K miles, Ursula 

Re: [MBZ] Would Someone Please Be So Kind

[kevin kraly]

superglued the odometer.

How does this work?  Do you put the superglue on the affected shaft/gear?

Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 266K miles, Ursula

Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?

[Werner Fehlauer]

Andrew - some trucking companies will make you come and pick up a 
large/heavy item at their dock, or charge extra is they have to bring out a 
fork lift or similar item.
The Bend-Pak lifts come with a heavy iron angle iron frame bolted to each 
end, making the whole package very heavy, but easier for them to ship as one 
piece.  I suppose you could disassemble the package on the delivery truck 
(driver agreement required), which might make the pieces man-manageable. 
(each post on mine was over 400 lbs without the arms).


Werner

- Original Message - 
From: "andrew strasfogel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?



Yeah, I am aware of this.  Other than a Vermont cart certified to carry
loads up to 400 lbs. I have no means of taking it off their truck or
installing it.  Might have to enlist the assistance of a third party.

Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?

[Rich Thomas]

Unless you are a very short person, that 100" ceiling height is going to 
be a problem with getting under the car -- a car is what, maybe 48" tall 
or more?  That means you only have 4ish ft under it if it is up against 
the ceiling.  I saw on some car show on Sunday a lift that slides under 
the car from the side, then it lifts it up by the frame about 3 ft or 
so, enough to work under comfortably.  It was kinda big though.


An alternative is to jack the whole garage or roof up a bit, put some 
knee wall under it to give a few more feet.  Would not be that hard to 
do if you have some time and jacks.  I had contemplated doing this on a 
small garage at my house in MA, but moved before I got to that project.


--R

andrew strasfogel wrote:

This is a very affordable mid-range scissors-type lift that raises the car
enough to sit under, though I wonder how happy I would be at not being able
to stand up under the car

http://www.pantherlifts.com/6K_mid_rise_scissors_lift.html


On 2/13/07, andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  

Werner - I think this would work for me as I could probably align the
posts between the rafters to accommodate the 113" ht.  Is yours the same?

http://www.pantherlifts.com/9K_two_post_lift.html


 On 2/13/07, Werner Fehlauer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Andrew - check out www.geusa.com - that's where I bought my Bend-Pak
XP-10AC
a few years ago, when they had a sale.  They do show a low ceiling lift
that
still requires 113" clearance for the posts.  Less than that, you may be
looking at a 4-post or something like that.

Werner

- Original Message -
From: "andrew strasfogel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" < mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 11:26 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?


  

What are my options with a ceiling ht. of 100 inches??  The garage has


a
  

flat roof and rafters are spaced at 16".  Width is 137".


On 2/13/07, Werner Fehlauer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Even with a 12 ft clearance, I have to watch out for lifting my M-B
  

with
  

the
hood vertical.  Thankfully, the roof trusses are on 4 ft centers, and
  

the
  

hood can "fit" between the trusses a bit when fully raised.
Of course, one could lower the hood, but that would take forethought
  

and
  

patience...

Werner

- Original Message -
From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?


  

but the real problem is that it needs 12 ft of ceiling clearance,
  

Yeah, I built my downstairs garage with 10' ceilings, thinking that
I could put a lift in someday.  (And it's a good thing I didn't


spec.
  

more height, as they were starting to hit some pretty solid rock
by then.)  Well, there's one or two that might fit in there, but I
think they're all four-posters.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?

[andrew strasfogel]

Yeah, I am aware of this.  Other than a Vermont cart certified to carry
loads up to 400 lbs. I have no means of taking it off their truck or
installing it.  Might have to enlist the assistance of a third party.

On 2/13/07, Werner Fehlauer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Andrew - as you can see in the ads you cite, there are pros and cons for
whatever you choose.  The lift with the most clear, unobstructed working
area, is the 2 post with overhead equalizing cables and lines.
Unfortunately, that is also the one needing the most height
clearance.  You
have to choose what works for you.

One related issue is the delivery of the lift to your home.  The larger
lifts are well over 1000# and shipped by motor freight.  The trucker will
be
MOST unhappy if, after locating your driveway, you cannot lift the item
off
his truck.  I was lucky in that I had a compact tractor with bucket, so
that
I could lift one end and slide it off on to the ground, then lift the
other
end so that the trucker could drive the truck out from under the load. (my
tractor will only lift about 750 lbs with the bucket, about half of the
lift
shipping weight).  Just something to consider!

Werner

- Original Message -
From: "andrew strasfogel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 12:32 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?


> Werner - I think this would work for me as I could probably align the
> posts
> between the rafters to accommodate the 113" ht.  Is yours the same?
>
> http://www.pantherlifts.com/9K_two_post_lift.html
>
>
> On 2/13/07, Werner Fehlauer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> Andrew - check out www.geusa.com - that's where I bought my Bend-Pak
>> XP-10AC
>> a few years ago, when they had a sale.  They do show a low ceiling lift
>> that
>> still requires 113" clearance for the posts.  Less than that, you may
be
>> looking at a 4-post or something like that.
>>
>> Werner


___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?

[Werner Fehlauer]

Andrew - as you can see in the ads you cite, there are pros and cons for 
whatever you choose.  The lift with the most clear, unobstructed working 
area, is the 2 post with overhead equalizing cables and lines. 
Unfortunately, that is also the one needing the most height clearance.  You 
have to choose what works for you.


One related issue is the delivery of the lift to your home.  The larger 
lifts are well over 1000# and shipped by motor freight.  The trucker will be 
MOST unhappy if, after locating your driveway, you cannot lift the item off 
his truck.  I was lucky in that I had a compact tractor with bucket, so that 
I could lift one end and slide it off on to the ground, then lift the other 
end so that the trucker could drive the truck out from under the load. (my 
tractor will only lift about 750 lbs with the bucket, about half of the lift 
shipping weight).  Just something to consider!


Werner

- Original Message - 
From: "andrew strasfogel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 12:32 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?


Werner - I think this would work for me as I could probably align the 
posts

between the rafters to accommodate the 113" ht.  Is yours the same?

http://www.pantherlifts.com/9K_two_post_lift.html


On 2/13/07, Werner Fehlauer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Andrew - check out www.geusa.com - that's where I bought my Bend-Pak
XP-10AC
a few years ago, when they had a sale.  They do show a low ceiling lift
that
still requires 113" clearance for the posts.  Less than that, you may be
looking at a 4-post or something like that.

Werner

Re: [MBZ] Black '85 300D update

[LarryT]

Hi Kevin,
Don't forget to ask for records/receipts - need to verify work done on the 
"Rebuild".


Let us know how the test light does on the relay - (thanks to Jim for 
telling how to hook up the test light) - it's always nice to keep the 
symptoms/possible problems on the back burner for future reference.


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: "kevin kraly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 3:15 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Black '85 300D update



Thanks, Jim!  I want to find out how the GP's and relay are working in the
infamous Black '85 300D I'm checking into.  If everything's in order and 
it

still won't start, it's probably in much the same state as the $500 1981
300CD that I had.  It had tight, VERY TIGHT valves , and the GP's didn't
work on that car at all!

Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 266K miles, Ursula, working GP's, no starting troubles, and i
intend to keep it that way


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--
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Re: [MBZ] Sludge Issues/my 0.02

[LarryT]

Do you know if the extended engine warranties were transferrable to new 
owners of late 90s MB's?


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 11:34 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sludge Issues/my 0.02




In a message dated 2/12/2007 6:28:09 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

That  said, oil "sludge" is almost always a product of trapped moisture or
combustion product contaminants, coupled with improper (usually cool)
temperatures.  It would seem that our Japanese friends missed the  boat
somewhere in their design or user instructions, allowing this  situation 
to
develop.  The fact that they seem to have readily agreed  to replace 
engines

under an extended warranty speaks volumes about who is  responsible.

And there should be no "eternal sludge formation" if  proper oil changes 
are
made, using the correct oils and at the correct  intervals form the 
operating

conditions.



Mercedes did indeed have a sludge problem starting about late 96, when FSS
was adapted to various vehicles.  The FSS was set at some distance which 
was

NOT compatible with standard, but MB recommended, dino oils.  The  sludge
created by owners, merely following the MB service intervals. did indeed 
have long

lasting effects.  The sludge would not flow into the oil pumps,  leaving
bearings and cylinder walls to suffer!   Newish engines, with  less than 
30,000
miles became oil burners!  Initially, the dealers were  required to 
document oil

consumption and dealt with the owners on an  individual basis.  Oil
consumption in excess of one quart per 1000 miles  seemed to be the basis 
for factory

intervention.

Class action suits quietly prevailed and Mercedes has now extended the
engine warranties to 150,000 miles.  [SNIP] 

[MBZ] Would Someone Please Be So Kind

[B Dike]

...as to direct me to the link with the instructions for repairing older (1974 
240D) clocks? Everything else in the cluster works like new after I jumpered 
the rheostat, reset the glass retainer, and superglued the odometer.  BTW, this 
is the third car  on which I have used the superglue fix, and each time it has 
worked great.

Thanks,

Bruce
82 300CD 348kmi 'His'
85 300CD 253kmi 'Hers'
75 240D 202kmi 'Donner'
77 240D 204kmi 'Blitzen' gone to a better place
74 240D 79kmi 'Orangewagen'
73 220D 'Fnu Lnu'
 
-
Looking for earth-friendly autos? 
 Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.  
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] 300SD -- Glow plug lights don't always go out
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X-List-Received-Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 17:35:44 -

I've had the light come back on with the 85 300D. It turned out to be a 
defective GP relay. It literally was filled with water; the o-ring bwtween the 
halves had cracked and water had seeped in over the years.  There was literally 
half a cup of water in it.

-j.

-- Original message -- 
From: carbucks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

> Hello all, 
> 
> Looking for some list wisdom. 
> 
> What does it mean when the glow plug light won't go out? 
> 
> My 85 300SD light often stays lit until the car starts. I wait the usual 
> number of seconds (I have another 300SD), before starting it. 
> 
> Lately the light will come back on after the car has been running for a 
> few seconds. I turn the engine off and restart it, waiting a bit longer 
> than before, and the light will go out when the engine starts. Sometimes have 
> to 
> repeat this process a three or four times. 
> 
> The engine always starts promptly. 
> 
> Thanks, 
> 
> Martin Buck 
> 85 300SD 
> 84 300SD 
> 
> 
> 
> ___ 
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Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 12:36:16 -0500
From: "andrew strasfogel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?
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Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?

[andrew strasfogel]

Werner - I think this would work for me as I could probably align the posts
between the rafters to accommodate the 113" ht.  Is yours the same?

http://www.pantherlifts.com/9K_two_post_lift.html


On 2/13/07, Werner Fehlauer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Andrew - check out www.geusa.com - that's where I bought my Bend-Pak
XP-10AC
a few years ago, when they had a sale.  They do show a low ceiling lift
that
still requires 113" clearance for the posts.  Less than that, you may be
looking at a 4-post or something like that.

Werner

- Original Message -
From: "andrew strasfogel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 11:26 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?


> What are my options with a ceiling ht. of 100 inches??  The garage has a
> flat roof and rafters are spaced at 16".  Width is 137".
>
>
> On 2/13/07, Werner Fehlauer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> Even with a 12 ft clearance, I have to watch out for lifting my M-B
with
>> the
>> hood vertical.  Thankfully, the roof trusses are on 4 ft centers, and
the
>> hood can "fit" between the trusses a bit when fully raised.
>> Of course, one could lower the hood, but that would take forethought
and
>> patience...
>>
>> Werner
>>
>> - Original Message -
>> From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
>> Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 10:36 AM
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?
>>
>>
>> >> but the real problem is that it needs 12 ft of ceiling clearance,
>> >
>> > Yeah, I built my downstairs garage with 10' ceilings, thinking that
>> > I could put a lift in someday.  (And it's a good thing I didn't spec.
>> > more height, as they were starting to hit some pretty solid rock
>> > by then.)  Well, there's one or two that might fit in there, but I
>> > think they're all four-posters.
>> >
>> > -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?

[Werner Fehlauer]

Andrew - check out www.geusa.com - that's where I bought my Bend-Pak XP-10AC 
a few years ago, when they had a sale.  They do show a low ceiling lift that 
still requires 113" clearance for the posts.  Less than that, you may be 
looking at a 4-post or something like that.


Werner

- Original Message - 
From: "andrew strasfogel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 11:26 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?



What are my options with a ceiling ht. of 100 inches??  The garage has a
flat roof and rafters are spaced at 16".  Width is 137".


On 2/13/07, Werner Fehlauer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Even with a 12 ft clearance, I have to watch out for lifting my M-B with
the
hood vertical.  Thankfully, the roof trusses are on 4 ft centers, and the
hood can "fit" between the trusses a bit when fully raised.
Of course, one could lower the hood, but that would take forethought and
patience...

Werner

- Original Message -
From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?


>> but the real problem is that it needs 12 ft of ceiling clearance,
>
> Yeah, I built my downstairs garage with 10' ceilings, thinking that
> I could put a lift in someday.  (And it's a good thing I didn't spec.
> more height, as they were starting to hit some pretty solid rock
> by then.)  Well, there's one or two that might fit in there, but I
> think they're all four-posters.
>
> -- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?

[andrew strasfogel]

What are my options with a ceiling ht. of 100 inches??  The garage has a
flat roof and rafters are spaced at 16".  Width is 137".


On 2/13/07, Werner Fehlauer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Even with a 12 ft clearance, I have to watch out for lifting my M-B with
the
hood vertical.  Thankfully, the roof trusses are on 4 ft centers, and the
hood can "fit" between the trusses a bit when fully raised.
Of course, one could lower the hood, but that would take forethought and
patience...

Werner

- Original Message -
From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?


>> but the real problem is that it needs 12 ft of ceiling clearance,
>
> Yeah, I built my downstairs garage with 10' ceilings, thinking that
> I could put a lift in someday.  (And it's a good thing I didn't spec.
> more height, as they were starting to hit some pretty solid rock
> by then.)  Well, there's one or two that might fit in there, but I
> think they're all four-posters.
>
> -- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?

[Werner Fehlauer]

Even with a 12 ft clearance, I have to watch out for lifting my M-B with the 
hood vertical.  Thankfully, the roof trusses are on 4 ft centers, and the 
hood can "fit" between the trusses a bit when fully raised.
Of course, one could lower the hood, but that would take forethought and 
patience...


Werner

- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?



but the real problem is that it needs 12 ft of ceiling clearance,


Yeah, I built my downstairs garage with 10' ceilings, thinking that
I could put a lift in someday.  (And it's a good thing I didn't spec.
more height, as they were starting to hit some pretty solid rock
by then.)  Well, there's one or two that might fit in there, but I
think they're all four-posters.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Got a Lift?

[Jim Cathey]

but the real problem is that it needs 12 ft of ceiling clearance,


Yeah, I built my downstairs garage with 10' ceilings, thinking that
I could put a lift in someday.  (And it's a good thing I didn't spec.
more height, as they were starting to hit some pretty solid rock
by then.)  Well, there's one or two that might fit in there, but I
think they're all four-posters.

-- Jim

[MBZ] Got a Lift?

[Werner Fehlauer]

Andrew - I have a 2 post asymmetrical lift that does indeed require 220V, 
but the real problem is that it needs 12 ft of ceiling clearance, as the 
cross over cabling is overhead rather than on the floor.  Great to work on a 
car when you want to have free movement underneath!
Fortunately, when I replaced a 45 year old pole barn, I made it a bit larger 
and with a 12 ft clearance.  The floor needs to be 4-6" of 3000# concrete, 
and its a snap to rent the proper concrete drill for a couple of hours from 
Home Depot to drill the 8 holes for installing the anchor bolts.
There are shorter models, but most of them require a small connecting 
channel (about an inch and a half high) that connects the 2 towers, for the 
equalizing cables and hydraulic lines to cross over.  A minor "tripping" 
hazard but necessary if you can't go the overhead route.


Werner

- Original Message - 
From: "andrew strasfogel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 9:06 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Was HF Flux Wire Welder - Now Got a Lift?



On the subject of equipment, I am hankering to purchase a car lift for my
garage.  2 Post or 4 Post?  I have limited ceiling height and would have 
to

do electrical work to accommodate the 220 volts needed for a 2 post system
that's bolted to the concrete floor.  I'm not inclined to a 4 post system
even though th4ey are 110 volts and  require no installation because of 
the

clutter and extra room required.  Does anyone have a garage lift or one of
those major jacking rigs that lift a car maybe 5 feet?

Re: [MBZ] Black '85 300D update

[Marshall Booth]

kevin kraly wrote:
Thanks, Jim!  I want to find out how the GP's and relay are working in the 
infamous Black '85 300D I'm checking into.  If everything's in order and it 
still won't start, it's probably in much the same state as the $500 1981 
300CD that I had.  It had tight, VERY TIGHT valves , and the GP's didn't 
work on that car at all!


Tight valves are simply a matter of adjustment. And since they require 
adjustment (or at least a check that they are properly adjusted) every 
15kmi, it's likely that the Black car has tight valves too. But you just 
adjust the valves and that's the end of that.


As to glow plugs, replacing the plugs, the fuse and the relay will cure 
almost any preglow problem. An otherwise perfect car with preglow issues 
and tight valves will often not start, but could represent a great buy. 
The cost to get it into perfect condition would be rather modest.


Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [MBZ] Sludge Issues

[Marshall Booth]

Jim Cathey wrote:
Seems like there might be something else at work here besides owners 
not
changing oil at proper times - the problem only started  around 
1997/1998

why wasn't it an apparent problem in older cars?  Maybe oil quality
degraded 10-12 years ago?


When did the shift to 5W- and 0W- oils take place?  :-)

15W40 Delo in a 616, 617, or 603 old-tech engine works for me!


Mercedes diesel engines using approved oils changed at prudent intervals 
didn't have any problems with sludge in '70s, '80s and '90s.


The 0W-40 and 5W-40 Mobil 1 oils work JUST fine.

Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [MBZ] ArticQ Rig

[andrew strasfogel]

Deleted already.

On 2/13/07, Redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/zip/277901437.html

Best deal in town for a rig to head out this summer.  Super Kaleb price
too!
--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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Re: [MBZ] ArticQ Rig

[Craig McCluskey]

On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 21:05:42 -0800 Redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/zip/277901437.html
> 
> Best deal in town for a rig to head out this summer.  Super Kaleb price 
> too!

This posting has been deleted by its author.
(The title on the listings page will be removed in just a few minutes.)


Craig

Re: [MBZ] OT: Was HF Flux Wire Welder - Now Got a Lift?

[andrew strasfogel]

On the subject of equipment, I am hankering to purchase a car lift for my
garage.  2 Post or 4 Post?  I have limited ceiling height and would have to
do electrical work to accommodate the 220 volts needed for a 2 post system
that's bolted to the concrete floor.  I'm not inclined to a 4 post system
even though th4ey are 110 volts and  require no installation because of the
clutter and extra room required.  Does anyone have a garage lift or one of
those major jacking rigs that lift a car maybe 5 feet?

On 2/12/07, LarryT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


It looks almost identical to one offered by Lincoln - which I have.  It
has
allowed me to try MIG and learn how to do things with it - wire feed speed
and temp are critical and settings greatly affect the result.

See if you can attach gas to it - gas will provide a much better weld -
the
gas flows around the wire keeping airborn impurities from interfering - a
bottle of gas is cheap - and I consider mandatory.

This is probably not much help - but as you said for $90 it might be worth
it to learn a bit - or tae a class at local community college or Vo-Tech -
and have something at home to practice on-

Good luck -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message -
From: "Rich Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 6:38 PM
Subject: [MBZ] OT: HF Flux Wire Welder


> HF has this thing
>
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=94056
> on sale for $90, down from $150.  I am thinking that at that price, it
> might be worth getting one just to see if it works for minor welding and
> learning.  It only has a 10% duty cycle, so it won't do a lot, but maybe
> for sheet metal and light work?  Anyone have any experience with these
> things (other than the usual HF caveat emptors)?  I've not welded
> before, want to give it a try, this might be a cheap way to do that
> before getting a decent machine.
>
> --R
>
> *90 AMP FLUX WIRE WELDER*
>
> Specifically designed to use self-shielding flux-cored welding wire,
> eliminating any need for gas and regulators normal MIG welders require.
> Includes: 4'' spool of flux-core wire and spare 0.035'' welding tip.
>
>* Self regulating feed control
>* Thermal protection with warning light
>* Carry handle on lid
>* Input: 115 volt, 15 amps, single phase
>* Welding current (2 settings) 63 to 68 amps (low), 79 to 90 amps
>  (high)
>* Duty cycle: 10% @ 80 amps, 18% @ 60 amps
>* Wire capacity: 0.035'' or 0.030''
>
> Shipping weight: 34-1/2 lbs.
>
> * ITEM 94056*
>
>
> ___
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Compact flourescent makes good RuffSvc Bulb

[Mitch Haley]

Zoltan Finks wrote:
> 
> I found a shop light at, well, actually that same hardware store, that was
> LED. Had a couple rows of LEDs. Was tempting sitting there in that Harbor
> Freight-style stand in the aisleway. Was like 25 or 30 $.
> 
> Any experience with these?

I bought a couple at Meijer for gifts. They were half off, $12.49 each. 
Came with Nimh batteries (probably AA or AAA cells) and 12v and 120v
chargers. Put out substantial light with 30 LEDs. I just wish the LEDs
didn't all face in exactly the same direction.

Re: [MBZ] Compact flourescent makes good RuffSvc Bulb

[Zoltan Finks]

I found a shop light at, well, actually that same hardware store, that was
LED. Had a couple rows of LEDs. Was tempting sitting there in that Harbor
Freight-style stand in the aisleway. Was like 25 or 30 $.

Any experience with these?

Brian


On 2/12/07, Curt Raymond <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:



No Harbor Freight stores in New England that I know of. Hate to buy
something where shipping is more than the product...

-Curt

Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 07:59:50 -0800
From: Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Compact flourescent makes good RuffSvc Bulb
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed

> What do you want to bet the new [halogen] bulb is nearly as
> expensive as the whole light?

I bought spare halogen worklight bulbs at Harbor Freight
when they were on sale.  Less than $1 each, IIRC.  No,
they're not tough, and they're serious about the restrictions
on orientation.  Those puppies get HOT!

-- Jim


-
Be a PS3 game guru.
Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo!
Games.
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Re: [MBZ] Black '85 300D update

[kevin kraly]

Thanks, Jim!  I want to find out how the GP's and relay are working in the 
infamous Black '85 300D I'm checking into.  If everything's in order and it 
still won't start, it's probably in much the same state as the $500 1981 
300CD that I had.  It had tight, VERY TIGHT valves , and the GP's didn't 
work on that car at all!


Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 266K miles, Ursula, working GP's, no starting troubles, and i 
intend to keep it that way 

Re: [MBZ] 300SD -- Glow plug lights don't always go out

[carbucks]

Thanks Marshall and Bob.

Found this site, http://dieselgiant.com/glowplugrepair.htm complete with 
pictures, which details the steps to check the fuse and plugs.


Martin

Marshall Booth wrote:

carbucks wrote:
  

Hello all,

Looking for some list wisdom.

What does it mean when the glow plug light won't go out?

My 85 300SD light often stays lit until the car starts. I wait the usual 
number of seconds (I have another 300SD), before starting it.


Lately the light will come back on after the car has been running for a 
few seconds. I turn the engine off and restart it, waiting a bit longer 
than before, and the light will go out when the engine starts. Sometimes have to repeat this process a three or four times.



The dash lamp NOT lighting when the key is first activated OR the dash 
light relighting after the engine starts, both signal that the preglow 
system requires service. It could be a bad or intermittent glow plug or 
plug wire, a cracked fuse, or a defective relay. I'd check plugs and 
fuse first and if questionable, replace them. If that doesn't cure 
things, then the relay needs to be checked.


Marshall
  

Re: [MBZ] Black '85 300D update

[Jim Cathey]

Where does the test light need to be hooked up to test GP relay 
function?


The glow plug of your choice!  (And ground.)

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Sludge Issues

[Jim Cathey]

Seems like there might be something else at work here besides owners 
not
changing oil at proper times - the problem only started  around 
1997/1998

why wasn't it an apparent problem in older cars?  Maybe oil quality
degraded 10-12 years ago?


When did the shift to 5W- and 0W- oils take place?  :-)

15W40 Delo in a 616, 617, or 603 old-tech engine works for me!

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Black '85 300D update

[kevin kraly]

a test light will show if there's
any voltage going to the GPs.  hook up the test light and time how long it
stays lit.

Where does the test light need to be hooked up to test GP relay function?

Kevin in Hillsboro, OR
1983 300SD 266K miles, Ursula

[MBZ] ArticQ Rig

[Redghost]

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/zip/277901437.html

Best deal in town for a rig to head out this summer.  Super Kaleb price 
too!

--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] Sludge Issues/my 0.02

[JFreezn]

 
In a message dated 2/12/2007 6:28:09 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

That  said, oil "sludge" is almost always a product of trapped moisture or  
combustion product contaminants, coupled with improper (usually cool)  
temperatures.  It would seem that our Japanese friends missed the  boat 
somewhere in their design or user instructions, allowing this  situation to 
develop.  The fact that they seem to have readily agreed  to replace engines 
under an extended warranty speaks volumes about who is  responsible.

And there should be no "eternal sludge formation" if  proper oil changes are 
made, using the correct oils and at the correct  intervals form the operating 
conditions.



Mercedes did indeed have a sludge problem starting about late 96, when FSS  
was adapted to various vehicles.  The FSS was set at some distance which  was 
NOT compatible with standard, but MB recommended, dino oils.  The  sludge 
created by owners, merely following the MB service intervals. did indeed  have 
long 
lasting effects.  The sludge would not flow into the oil pumps,  leaving 
bearings and cylinder walls to suffer!   Newish engines, with  less than 30,000 
miles became oil burners!  Initially, the dealers were  required to document 
oil 
consumption and dealt with the owners on an  individual basis.  Oil 
consumption in excess of one quart per 1000 miles  seemed to be the basis for 
factory 
intervention.  
 
Class action suits quietly prevailed and Mercedes has now extended the  
engine warranties to 150,000 miles.  This for those FSS equipped engines  with 
factory recommended dino oils in the owner's manual.  In addition,  ONLY 
recommended synthetic oils were now mandatory, no dino oil was  acceptable.  My 
98 ML 
falls in the extended warranty but it has never been  an oil burner, and as you 
can see, is past 147,000 miles.  
 
I would suggest that anyone who is considering buying a used Benz, in  the 
late 90's era, watch out not for sludge, but major oil  consumption.  Figure 
out 
a way to drive the vehicle at least a thousand  miles with the contingency 
being that you can give it back if it turns out to be  an oil burner.  Or, 
maybe 
squeeze MB for a new engine under their extended  warranty program.
 
Buyer beware!
 
Regards  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 264 K miles 
98 ML 320, 147 K  miles

Re: [MBZ] What's This Worth Kaleb?

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

No rust, good condition etc, everything working, about 2500 or so.

Bob Rentfro wrote:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1983-Mercedes-Benz-300D-Very-clean-and-drives-nice_W0QQitemZ130077702634QQihZ003QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 166K
'87 Acura Legend  181K
Litchfield Park, AZ
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 (2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] Paris Dakar trucks

[Hendrik Riessen]

Yeah they are an awesome machine http://www.kamaz.net/en/vehicle/serial/17
with 730 horses they wanna go fast, like 100mph with a full load

- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 6:39 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Paris Dakar trucks



http://www.metacafe.com/watch/426319/video/R/CFD_1000/ Enjoy!
___

Re: [MBZ] Sludge Issues

[LarryT]

Thanks Werner - *that* makes sense - knowing it's the reporter/editor's 
fault is easy ;-)


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: "Werner Fehlauer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 8:22 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sludge Issues



Larry - the things that comes to mind are that this kind of article is
usually written by a reporter, not an engineer; that the purpose is to 
sell

papers; and inconvenient "details" are often left out to fit into the
editor's space allotment.

That said, oil "sludge" is almost always a product of trapped moisture or
combustion product contaminants, coupled with improper (usually cool)
temperatures.  It would seem that our Japanese friends missed the boat
somewhere in their design or user instructions, allowing this situation to
develop.  The fact that they seem to have readily agreed to replace 
engines

under an extended warranty speaks volumes about who is responsible.

And there should be no "eternal sludge formation" if proper oil changes 
are
made, using the correct oils and at the correct intervals form the 
operating

conditions.

Werner

- Original Message - 
From: "LarryT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 4:56 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sludge Issues



Thanks for sharing that article - I'm sure many people are quaking in
their
boots after reading that!  Especially owners of those models affected and
used car salespeople.  ;-0

Several things in the article make me wonder - such as this comment by
Chrysler about their engines :>

Hmm.. they reduced the capacity so I could save $2 on a oil change? 
Seems

to be pretty short sighted - maybe they *should* have been sued!


Also, the comment:<>  So he's saying the
used car I buy might create sludge even it I change the oil at 3k all the
time?  What kind of mechanical damage can cause sludge formation once
clean
oil is introduced and changed often enough to remove the sludge?

And, last but not least, <>

Well,... ahem, I think an Oil Analysis ;-) might show a problem - perhaps
very low additive levels, high comtaminants from the sludge - and other
indications - particularly if a TBN is done.  I wonder what experts they
asked?

Thanks for the link to the article.  Makes me happy we sold our 99 Camry
when  we bought the 91 300D 2.5T.

Seems like there might be something else at work here besides owners not
changing oil at proper times - the problem only started  around
1997/1998 -
why wasn't it an apparent problem in older cars?  Maybe oil quality
degraded
10-12 years ago?

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 4:13 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Sludge Issues



http://www.nytimes.com/2007/02/04/automobiles/04SLUDGE.html?ex=1171256400&en=8cc685238e761970&ei=5070

Toyota just replaced the engine in my wifes 1999 Toyata Sienna.  We
bought
it in 2002 with 35K miles on it.  Had 133,000 when they changed the
engine
out.a month ago
All I ran was M1 synthetic changed every 10K and still sludged up.  Part
of
the class action suit.

No cost to us.  Beware on looking at used cars of the era.  Still could
not
get a good answer on how to "prevent" this sludging but have a free new
engine way beyond warrantee.

see the above article.

Regards Tom Scordato
1979 240D



___
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Re: [MBZ] WAS Black '85 300D update NOW Fuel leak from canister 85 300CD

[John W. Reames III]

On Mon, 12 Feb 2007, andrew strasfogel wrote:

> If the seals are missing or worn, should I purchase a new bolt?

The seal rings are N 007603 018101 and A 000 997 58 48 for engines 
.912 -> 153338, .951 -> 043083, and .952 -> 047570

They are A 000 997 00 48 and A 000 997 58 48 for engines .912 153339 ->, 
.951 043084 ->, and .952 047571 ->

The hollow bolts are different as well; the earlier one is A 615 990 05 63 
and the later is A 615 990 08 63.  The filter head for the earlier ones 
is A 615 092 01 08, but was rolled up to A 615 092 02 08, requiring the 
"newer" hollow bolt as well as the newer o-rings.

They LOOK like crush rings in the EPC but are not. They ARE o-rings.  If 
you have to replace the filter head, you want 6x N 007603 012111 and 
2x N 007603 014405. The filters are the same for both heads.

Enjoy!
-j.

Re: [MBZ] Sludge Issues

[Werner Fehlauer]

Larry - the things that comes to mind are that this kind of article is 
usually written by a reporter, not an engineer; that the purpose is to sell 
papers; and inconvenient "details" are often left out to fit into the 
editor's space allotment.


That said, oil "sludge" is almost always a product of trapped moisture or 
combustion product contaminants, coupled with improper (usually cool) 
temperatures.  It would seem that our Japanese friends missed the boat 
somewhere in their design or user instructions, allowing this situation to 
develop.  The fact that they seem to have readily agreed to replace engines 
under an extended warranty speaks volumes about who is responsible.


And there should be no "eternal sludge formation" if proper oil changes are 
made, using the correct oils and at the correct intervals form the operating 
conditions.


Werner

- Original Message - 
From: "LarryT" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 4:56 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Sludge Issues


Thanks for sharing that article - I'm sure many people are quaking in 
their

boots after reading that!  Especially owners of those models affected and
used car salespeople.  ;-0

Several things in the article make me wonder - such as this comment by
Chrysler about their engines :>

Hmm.. they reduced the capacity so I could save $2 on a oil change?  Seems
to be pretty short sighted - maybe they *should* have been sued!


Also, the comment:<>  So he's saying the
used car I buy might create sludge even it I change the oil at 3k all the
time?  What kind of mechanical damage can cause sludge formation once 
clean

oil is introduced and changed often enough to remove the sludge?

And, last but not least, <>

Well,... ahem, I think an Oil Analysis ;-) might show a problem - perhaps
very low additive levels, high comtaminants from the sludge - and other
indications - particularly if a TBN is done.  I wonder what experts they
asked?

Thanks for the link to the article.  Makes me happy we sold our 99 Camry
when  we bought the 91 300D 2.5T.

Seems like there might be something else at work here besides owners not
changing oil at proper times - the problem only started  around 
1997/1998 -
why wasn't it an apparent problem in older cars?  Maybe oil quality 
degraded

10-12 years ago?

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 4:13 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Sludge Issues



http://www.nytimes.com/2007/02/04/automobiles/04SLUDGE.html?ex=1171256400&en=8cc685238e761970&ei=5070

Toyota just replaced the engine in my wifes 1999 Toyata Sienna.  We 
bought
it in 2002 with 35K miles on it.  Had 133,000 when they changed the 
engine

out.a month ago
All I ran was M1 synthetic changed every 10K and still sludged up.  Part
of
the class action suit.

No cost to us.  Beware on looking at used cars of the era.  Still could
not
get a good answer on how to "prevent" this sludging but have a free new
engine way beyond warrantee.

see the above article.

Regards Tom Scordato
1979 240D

Re: [MBZ] auction of the week

[Marshall Booth]

Bob Rentfro wrote:

I just wish the pictures were smaller..

You need to buy an electron microscope on ebay first so you can look at 
those photos.


But he'd have to charge MORE if the pictures were bigger!

Marshall
--
Marshall Booth Ph.D.
Ass't Prof. (ret.)
Univ of Pittsburgh School of Medicine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [MBZ] auction of the week

[Bob Rentfro]

I just wish the pictures were smaller..

You need to buy an electron microscope on ebay first so you can look at 
those photos.


Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 167K
'87 Acura Legend  181K
Litchfield Park, AZ



- Original Message - 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin, Cox Auto Trader" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; 
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 5:31 PM
Subject: [MBZ] auction of the week



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-A6824416_W0QQitemZ330086604108QQihZ014QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 

Re: [MBZ] OT: HF Flux Wire Welder

[LarryT]

It looks almost identical to one offered by Lincoln - which I have.  It has 
allowed me to try MIG and learn how to do things with it - wire feed speed 
and temp are critical and settings greatly affect the result.


See if you can attach gas to it - gas will provide a much better weld - the 
gas flows around the wire keeping airborn impurities from interfering - a 
bottle of gas is cheap - and I consider mandatory.


This is probably not much help - but as you said for $90 it might be worth 
it to learn a bit - or tae a class at local community college or Vo-Tech - 
and have something at home to practice on-


Good luck -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: "Rich Thomas" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 6:38 PM
Subject: [MBZ] OT: HF Flux Wire Welder



HF has this thing
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/itemdisplay/displayItem.do?itemid=94056
on sale for $90, down from $150.  I am thinking that at that price, it
might be worth getting one just to see if it works for minor welding and
learning.  It only has a 10% duty cycle, so it won't do a lot, but maybe
for sheet metal and light work?  Anyone have any experience with these
things (other than the usual HF caveat emptors)?  I've not welded
before, want to give it a try, this might be a cheap way to do that
before getting a decent machine.

--R

*90 AMP FLUX WIRE WELDER*

Specifically designed to use self-shielding flux-cored welding wire,
eliminating any need for gas and regulators normal MIG welders require.
Includes: 4'' spool of flux-core wire and spare 0.035'' welding tip.

   * Self regulating feed control
   * Thermal protection with warning light
   * Carry handle on lid
   * Input: 115 volt, 15 amps, single phase
   * Welding current (2 settings) 63 to 68 amps (low), 79 to 90 amps
 (high)
   * Duty cycle: 10% @ 80 amps, 18% @ 60 amps
   * Wire capacity: 0.035'' or 0.030''

Shipping weight: 34-1/2 lbs.

* ITEM 94056*


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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Re: [MBZ] Black '85 300D update

[LarryT]

Hi Kevin -
It all depends on how bad the rings are - engines don't always do what you 
think they will do.  I know what you mean about the sound of the starter, 
but compression to start the engine vs compression to allow the starter to 
spin easily are 2 different things - having very low compression isn't the 
same as having all the GP's removed.  An engine showing zero on the gauge 
usually still has *some* compression - enough to put pressure on the 
starter.


On the W123 it's reasonably easy to test the compression - not like a W124 
where the intake manifold must be removed for access.  If possible - that'll 
be your best test of the engine - but for the price of 5 GPs you can 
eliminate part of the problem.


Hopefully the starting fluid didn't do any damage to the precombustion 
chambers - but until you get back to the engine and test some stuff we're 
just guessing.  With the temp low lately, even an engine with decent 
compression will be hard put to fire up with non-functioning GPs.  The good 
thing about buying 5 GPs is you can use them eventually or on another MB 
diesel.   And checking the relay is easy - a test light will show if there's 
any voltage going to the GPs.  hook up the test light and time how long it 
stays lit.  Will give a good idea of how well the relay is working.  Of 
course there's other problems a relay can have (staying on too long or 
coming on after the engine is running, etc)  - but the biggest problem can 
be tested like above.  If you determine the relay is working and put new GPs 
in (you could take them out of your 300SD) then you'll *know* if the problem 
is internal or has been fixed by replacing the GP's/


I always get suspicious when someone says the engine was rebuilt - it can 
mean different things to different people.  Or perhaps the PO misunderstood 
what he heard and paid for -- perhaps the IP was rebuilt or maybe the vac 
pump -  ask if he has the receipt/s - it'll usually be more than one page if 
detailed  --


Good luck - I hope my writing is coherent - sometimes I leave out words ;-\

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: "kevin kraly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 5:20 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Black '85 300D update



Larry,

If low compression or no compression on a cylinder or 3 is the situation
with this car, wouldn't it be obvious due to the sound of the starter? 
When
it's coming closest to starting, it sounds like it's catching on 3 
cylinders

out of 5.  I do have a compression tester.  This may be the best way to
assess the condition of the engine if he'll let me do it.

Kevin in HIllsboro, OR
1983 300SD 266K miles, Ursula


___
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[MBZ] auction of the week

[Kaleb C. Striplin, Cox Auto Trader]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-200-Series-A6824416_W0QQitemZ330086604108QQihZ014QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Tue Feb 13 00:56:30 2007
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I'm also sure I read that the toyota engine used gears to drive the
cam shafts and they think that was very hard
on oils which were not sear resistant. Likely most anything a fast
lube place would stick in that engine.


On Feb 12, 2007, at 2:56 PM, R A Bennell wrote:

> I am certain that I read somewhere that the reason the Toyota
> engines sludged up was that they reduced the size of
> the PCV valve and related stuff in order to improve emission
> readings. \

John
1983 300TDt  375k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1990's 300TDt  186k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)
1993 500SEL 186k Kilometers (mobil 1 Delvac)

Re: [MBZ] Sludge Issues

[Peter Frederick]

Essentially NO crankcase ventilation, no way for the water vapor to 
escape.  Results from attempting to minimize emissions from burning 
crankcase vapors, I suspect.


Chrysler had absolute fits with this on their trucks.

Peter